Question Need help and guidance on my first PC build i5-14600K

[GentleX]

Hey there guys!
I'm a cybersecurity (offensive) prefessional. So, i need to work a lot more on VMware workstation. I just use PC for my work. Nothing else.
And here I'm about to build my first PC ever (i worked on laptop before). I did my own online research and came up with this combination :

Processor:
Intel Core i5-14600K Raptor Lake

Motherboard:
MSI Pro Z790-P Wifi DDR5 LGA1700 ATX

RAM:
G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB Black (2x16GB) 5600MHz DDR5 CL30 1.25V

Cooling Unit:

• CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE
• Casing Cooler: Noctua NF-A14 PWM 140mm 4-Pin Premium Quiet

SSD:
Western Digital Black SN770 1TB M.2 2280 PCIe Gen4 NVMe

PSU:
Thermaltake Toughpower GFA3 850W 80 Plus Gold Fully Modular

Case:
Darkflash Pollux Mid-tower ATX Gaming Case Tempered Glass Black

Monitor:
Asus VG279Q3A TUF 24" Full HD 180Hz IPS Gaming Monitor

Keyboard & Mouse Combo:
A4Tech 4200N Wireless

UPS:
Not Sure

I need your expert opinions on whether these components are good and compatible with one another or if I'm bound to face any issue whatsoever.
Thanks in advance for your time providing feedbacks!

Kind Regards,
GentleX

 

[jeremyj_83]

Hey there guys!
I'm a cybersecurity (offensive) prefessional. So, i need to work a lot more on VMware workstation. I just use PC for my work. Nothing else.
And here I'm about to build my first PC ever (i worked on laptop before). I did my own online research and came up with this combination :

Processor:
Intel Core i5-14600K Raptor Lake

Motherboard:
MSI Pro Z790-P Wifi DDR5 LGA1700 ATX

RAM:
G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB Black (2x16GB) 5600MHz DDR5 CL30 1.25V

Cooling Unit:

• CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE
• Casing Cooler: Noctua NF-A14 PWM 140mm 4-Pin Premium Quiet

SSD:
Western Digital Black SN770 1TB M.2 2280 PCIe Gen4 NVMe

PSU:
Thermaltake Toughpower GFA3 850W 80 Plus Gold Fully Modular

Case:
Darkflash Pollux Mid-tower ATX Gaming Case Tempered Glass Black

Monitor:
Asus VG279Q3A TUF 24" Full HD 180Hz IPS Gaming Monitor

Keyboard & Mouse Combo:
A4Tech 4200N Wireless

UPS:
Not Sure

I need your expert opinions on whether these components are good and compatible with one another or if I'm bound to face any issue whatsoever.
Thanks in advance for your time providing feedbacks!

Kind Regards,
GentleX

As a VMware admin I have a couple question. How many VMs are you going to be running at once? Are these linux, windows, or both? How much RAM per VM will you be allocating? How much storage are you allocating to each VM?

 

[GentleX]

As a VMware admin I have a couple question. How many VMs are you going to be running at once? Are these linux, windows, or both? How much RAM per VM will you be allocating? How much storage are you allocating to each VM?

1. 3 VMware. And yes, both
2. 4 GB RAM per VM
3. Storage for Linux 50GB & for windows 100GB

 

[jeremyj_83]

1. 3 VMware. And yes, both
2. 4 GB RAM per VM
3. Storage for Linux 50GB & for windows 100GB

That build looks good for what you are doing. You don't need an 850W PSU so you could save some money going with a smaller one of similar quality. A 14500 instead of the 14600K will save a few dollars as well. Overall you will have enough storage and RAM. Just remember that with a Type 2 hypervisor (VMware Workstation for example) your VMs take RAM from the host OS. With 3 VMs running at 4GB each they will have 12GB RAM dedicated to them. If you end up sending out 32GB RAM to VMs you will crash your desktop as Windows won't have any RAM. In other words you cannot over provision RAM with Workstation.

 

[Misgar]

If you end up sending out 32GB RAM to VMs

I've not used VMware, only Hyper-V, but I have two VMs on this ancient i7-4770K with only 16GB RAM.

Because I have problems running some software in VMs with Dynamic RAM, I set both VMs to 4096MB (fixed) RAM each. That way I can run Windows 10 Pro + Windows 10 VM + Windows 11 VM, without running out of RAM.

In other words you cannot over provision RAM with Workstation.

Presumably Over Provisioning in VMWare is similar to Dynamic Memory in Hyper-V?

I've just checked and with two VMs running, I have 342MB Hardware Reserved (iGPU), 12,306MB In Use, 2,385MB Standby and 1,232MB Free memory out of 16,384MB Total.

I don't normally run more than one VM at a time on the i7-4770K, but it works with two fixed 4GB. I have three more powerful systems, each with 64GB RAM, for normal VM work. There, I tend to allocate 16GB static (not dynamic) per VM.

RAM:
G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB Black (2x16GB) 5600MHz DDR5 CL30 1.25V

With RAM being relatively cheap, I'd be inclined to fit 2x32GB instead of 2x16GB, especially if you decide to save money fitting a 14500 and a 650W or 750W PSU.

 

[jeremyj_83]

Presumably Over Provisioning in VMWare is similar to Dynamic Memory in Hyper-V?

Dynamic memory is different. In ESXi (type 1 hypervisor) I can allocate more resources to VMs than I have on the server. For example I have a server with 8 vCPU and 32GB RAM. I can have 5 VMs with 2 vCPU and 8GB RAM. I have over provisioned my vCPU and RAM from what I physically have. This works because the odds of each VM needing CPU time all at once is pretty low so you don't run into CPU contention. For RAM the hypervisor compresses, balloons, and uses physical storage swap space to reduce the active RAM requirements. On top of that say a VM is only using 2GB of the 4GB allocated. The hypervisor can take that extra 2GB and use it on other VMs. This is only possible with Type 1 Hypervisors. VMware Workstation and Hyper-V on Windows are Type 2 and cannot do that.

Dynamic memory from what I've read is more about having extra RAM for boot and then reducing to a lower steady state later.

 

[geofelt]

Your build looks good to me.
On ram, I would be inclined to use a 2 x 16, 2 x24, or even a 2 x 32gb ram kit
If you buy the minimum now, it is not so easy to add ram since ram must be matched and the addition is not guaranteed to work properly.

As a first time builder,
MY build process:

Before anything, while waiting for your parts to be delivered, download
and read, cover to cover your case and motherboard manual.
Buy a long #2 magnetic tip philips screwdriver.
A small led flashlight is also useful.

I find it handy to buy a power switch like this for testing.
https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E168121..._switch-_-12-119-009-_-Product&quicklink=true
1. I assemble the critical parts outside of the case.
That lets me test them for functionality easily.
A wood table or cardboard is fine.
2. Plug in only the necessary parts at first. Ram, cpu, cooler, psu.
Do not force anything. Parts fit only one way.
Attach a monitor to the integrated motherboard adapter if you have one, otherwise to the graphics card.
3. If your motherboard does not have a PWR button, momentarily touch the two pwr front panel pins with a flat blade screwdriver.
4. Repeatedly hit F2 or DEL, and that should get you into the bios display.
5. Boot from a cd or usb stick with memtest86 on it. memtest will exercise your ram and cpu functionality.
They boot from a usb stick and do not use windows.
You can download them here:

MemTest86 - Official Site of the x86 Memory Testing Tool

MemTest86 is the original self booting memory testing software for x86 and ARM computers. Supporting both BIOS and UEFI, with options to boot from USB.

www.memtest86.com

Memtest86+ | The Open-Source Memory Testing Tool

Memtest86+ is an advanced, free, open-source, stand-alone memory tester for 32- and 64-bit computers (UEFI & BIOS supported)

www.memtest.org

If you can run a full pass with NO errors, your ram should be ok.

Running several more passes will sometimes uncover an issue, but it takes more time.

Probably not worth it unless you really suspect a ram issue.
Opinions vary on updating the bios.
Normally, one does not update a bios unless there is a fix for something that is impacting you. I violate this rule on a new build and will update to currency up front.
Use the usb option, not the windows option.
If there is a severe problem, the impact is small.


6. Install windows.
7. Install the motherboard cd drivers. Particularly the lan drivers so you can access the internet.
Do not select the easy install option, or you will get a bunch of utilities and trialware that you don't want. Drivers only.
7. Connect to the internet and install an antivirus program. Microsoft defender is free, easy, and unobtrusive.
8. Install your graphics card and driver if you tested with integrated graphics.
You will need to remove the graphics card later to install your motherboard in the case.
As a tip when screwing the motherboard into the posts, give the screw a small counterclockwise turn until you feel a click.
That lets you know that the screw will engage properly.
Make a note of how the graphics card latches into the pcie slot.
The mechanism will be hidden under the card and may be difficult to work if you have not previously checked how.
9. Update windows to currency.
10. Only now do I take apart what I need to and install it in the case.
11. Now is the time to reinstall your graphics card.

 

[Misgar]

Dynamic memory is different.

Many thanks for the comprehensive explanation. Much appreciated.

VMware Workstation and Hyper-V on Windows are Type 2 and cannot do that.

Until recently, I've only run Hyper-V Type 1 VMs, but moved over to Type 2 for GPU passthrough, for software requiring OpenCL/GL support.

Dynamic memory from what I've read is more about having extra RAM for boot and then reducing to a lower steady state later.

That's my understanding too. The system boots up the VM, then settles back and releases RAM to the pool, drawing more as required. The problem I had was some software failed to run if it didn't find enough RAM, so I had to set a fixed amount for the VM. I think it was an Adobe app and they don't officially support running in VMs (if I've got my facts straight).

Make a note of how the graphics card latches into the pcie slot.
The mechanism will be hidden under the card and may be difficult to work

Well said. I have particular trouble accessing the GPU latch down the side of an NH-D15 when they're in the case. People resort to using flat bladed screwdrivers to press down on the latch and gouge the motherboard. I use a plastic chopstick.

Normally, one does not update a bios unless there is a fix for something that is impacting you.

In the past I didn't worry about updating the BIOS, heeding the recommendation not to mess with a working system. If you don't have a decent UPS and the mains dies mid-update, there's a risk you might "brick" the BIOS. I'd leave old mobos running on an early BIOS that was years out of date.

More recently, I've been updating my Ryzen BIOS whenever I see a new release. There's too many critical fixes for modern Intel and AMD CPUs that should be addressed ASAP. When you take a brand new mobo out of the box, the BIOS is sometimes two or three versions old. With a new Intel board, the BIOS might not include the latest microcode update.

 

[drjohnnyfever]

Hey there guys!
I'm a cybersecurity (offensive) prefessional. So, i need to work a lot more on VMware workstation. I just use PC for my work. Nothing else.
And here I'm about to build my first PC ever (i worked on laptop before). I did my own online research and came up with this combination :

Processor:
Intel Core i5-14600K Raptor Lake

Motherboard:
MSI Pro Z790-P Wifi DDR5 LGA1700 ATX

RAM:
G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB Black (2x16GB) 5600MHz DDR5 CL30 1.25V

Cooling Unit:

• CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE
• Casing Cooler: Noctua NF-A14 PWM 140mm 4-Pin Premium Quiet

SSD:
Western Digital Black SN770 1TB M.2 2280 PCIe Gen4 NVMe

PSU:
Thermaltake Toughpower GFA3 850W 80 Plus Gold Fully Modular

Case:
Darkflash Pollux Mid-tower ATX Gaming Case Tempered Glass Black

Monitor:
Asus VG279Q3A TUF 24" Full HD 180Hz IPS Gaming Monitor

Keyboard & Mouse Combo:
A4Tech 4200N Wireless

UPS:
Not Sure

I need your expert opinions on whether these components are good and compatible with one another or if I'm bound to face any issue whatsoever.
Thanks in advance for your time providing feedbacks!

Kind Regards,
GentleX

I built an extremely similar machine hardware-wise for my son's first gamer.

https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/built-a-modest-gamer-for-my-son.3837500/

It flies. I'm in the midst of gathering info on re-tuning it after the most recent bios update. It changed some settings that actually resulted in higher temps and lower CPU output. I left it for the time being because their was something gaming going on with his friends. It was running super fast - still is, but I had it tuned it better.

Just be aware of all the news about the i5-14600K. It is one of the models that Intel identified as suspect. Anecdotally, I've had zero issues, but have never OC'd it, just set the voltages lower, and it sails. I was actually looking for the old thread I posted in trying to ferret out the tuning. It might be helpful to you too. vMax's video posts were super helpful.

Here's that thread: https://forums.tomshardware.com/thr...toshop-and-after-effects.3841845/page-2#posts

Good luck.

 

[GentleX]

So, I need to upgrade my RAM. Ok. What will be good?
4 x 16 GB or 2 x 32 GB

 

[Zerk2012]

So, I need to upgrade my RAM. Ok. What will be good?
4 x 16 GB or 2 x 32 GB

2 X 32

 

[geofelt]

Intel & ryzen run dual channel only so a two stick kit of 2 x 32gb is as good as you can do for performance.
Add to that, since it is easier to match two sticks vs. four, a two stick kit usually costs less.

And... today, you can buy 2 48gb kits if 96gb might work better for you.

 

[GentleX]

So, after all of the discussion - Here is my revised build. Check out kindly. Thanks in advance.

Processor:
Intel Core i5-14600K Raptor Lake

Motherboard:
MSI Pro Z790-A WiFi DDR5 LGA1700 ATX

RAM:
G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB Black (2x32GB) 5600MHz DDR5 CL30 1.25V

CPU Cooler:
Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE ARGB

SSD:
Western Digital Black SN770 1TB M.2 2280 PCIe Gen4 NVMe

PSU:
Corsair RM750e 80+ Gold certified ATX 3.0 Full Modular

Case:
NZXT H7 Flow (CM-H71FG-01) ATX Mid Tower Gaming Case Tempered Glass Black

Monitor:
Asus VG279Q3A TUF 24" Full HD 180Hz IPS Gaming Monitor

Keyboard & Mouse Combo:
A4Tech 4200N Wireless

UPS:
Not Sure

 

[Lafong]

MSI Pro Z790-A.....

There is also an MSI Pro Z790-P.

https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/PRO-Z790-P


The differences between the 2 might appeal to you...or not. Prices should be quite close.

Have you rejected the P version for a specific reason?

Some might try to nudge you up to 6000 speed RAM, but it's not a big deal at all. Ripjaws rather than Trident might save you 10 bucks if you don't care about the RGB on the Trident.

 

[GentleX]

MSI Pro Z790-A.....

There is also an MSI Pro Z790-P.

https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/PRO-Z790-P


The differences between the 2 might appeal to you...or not. Prices should be quite close.

Have you rejected the P version for a specific reason?

Some might try to nudge you up to 6000 speed RAM, but it's not a big deal at all. Ripjaws rather than Trident might save you 10 bucks if you don't care about the RGB on the Trident.

A series is better than P , i see. and A is cheaper than P. then why not? P series is good 0r A?

And i have no interest in RGB. i check my cpu support upto 5600MT/s ram. but i love trident for its reputation. so i m still confused what ram do i choose? or the crucial 32 is the good one?

 

[Lafong]

A series is better than P , i see. and A is cheaper than P. then why not? P series is good 0r A?

And i have no interest in RGB. i check my cpu support upto 5600MT/s ram. but i love trident for its reputation. so i m still confused what ram do i choose? or the crucial 32 is the good one?

https://www.msi.com/Motherboards/Pr...are=UFJPLVo3OTAtUC1XSUZJ,UFJPLVo3OTAtQS1XSUZJ

Above is the comparison link between the 2 at MSI web site.

They differ at least in audio chip and in USB ports. Maybe that has no importance to you at all. There may be other differences not revealed by the comparison tool.

Not sure why you say one is better than the other.

The P model is 190 at Amazon. I can't find a price right now on the A.

Trident has RGB. Ripjaws S5 does not.

https://www.gskill.com/configurator

above is the g skill RAM configurator. You can enter your exact motherboard and it will show you the supported modules. There will be numerous for both the P and A. The lists may well be identical?

If I wanted Ripjaws, I this would be a good 6000 speed choice.


https://pcpartpicker.com/product/x4...ddr5-6000-cl30-memory-f5-6000j3040f16gx2-rs5k

100 at Amazon; 97 at Newegg.

I think both Trident and Ripjaws use Hynix chips??

 

[geofelt]

The build is reasonable.
If anything, buy a 850w psu. Your cpu can handle a much stronger graphics card upgrade in the future.

 

[GentleX]

The build is reasonable.
If anything, buy a 850w psu. Your cpu can handle a much stronger graphics card upgrade in the future.

why 850w psu? kindly.

And yes, i will add gpu in future for cracking passwords, hash file etc as my professional work.

 

[logainofhades]

Personally, I wouldn't do a 13th or 14th gen chip. While Intel has claimed they have fixed the issues with them, the jury is still out if that is the case. If you do go with your current build, be sure to update the bios right away to the latest revision.

 

[geofelt]

why 850w psu? kindly.

And yes, i will add gpu in future for cracking passwords, hash file etc as my professional work.

Today's graphics cards can have momentary power spikes much higher than the nominal power required.
A psu will use only the power that is demanded of it, regardless of the max capability.
It will run quieter and cooler in the most efficient middle part of it's range.
Lastly, the marginal cost would be perhaps $10:
https://www.newegg.com/corsair-rm75...MImeib7cTDiQMVt6haBR1ipzYiEAQYByABEgLzOfD_BwE

 

[drjohnnyfever]

A series is better than P , i see. and A is cheaper than P. then why not? P series is good 0r A?

And i have no interest in RGB. i check my cpu support upto 5600MT/s ram. but i love trident for its reputation. so i m still confused what ram do i choose? or the crucial 32 is the good one?

I don't always buy Crucial, but I do most of the time. I have Corsair RAM in my everyday, but only because it was at a bargain basement price. I usually find a Crucial deal that fits my need and cheaper than the more prominent gamer want... If the operating numbers are right for what your MOBO can do - the MSI Pro 790-A Wifi is excellent - go for it.

I find it impossible to find the exact RAM comparisons for Crucial on the Passmark comparison because the model numbers never match up tho.

https://www.memorybenchmark.net/

 

[drjohnnyfever]

A series is better than P , i see. and A is cheaper than P. then why not? P series is good 0r A?

And i have no interest in RGB. i check my cpu support upto 5600MT/s ram. but i love trident for its reputation. so i m still confused what ram do i choose? or the crucial 32 is the good one?

Also, I don't know where you're looking for MOBO's or what country you are from, but Amazon US has "Warehouse." There are deals there and they are returnable for ANY reason. You're giving the hardware a second chance and they appreciate it. Always look at the board for broken or bent capacitors and such when you receive it, but you can get some perfectly good items at DEEP discounts and with "return for any reason," so long as they are from Amazon Warehouse or Amazon Resale... There is one in acceptable condition now for $136 US.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CJSJ9TB3/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&psc=1

 

[GentleX]

Here I'm now. Review this build please.

PCPartPicker Part List​

CPU: Intel Core i5-14600K 3.5 GHz 14-Core Processor ($235.98 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE ARGB 66.17 CFM ($35.90 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI PRO Z790-P WIFI ATX LGA1700 ($189.99 @ Amazon)
RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws S5 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR5-5600 CL28 ($184.99 @ Amazon)
SSD: Western Digital Black SN850 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME ($127.99 @ Amazon)
Graphics Card: Gigabyte OC Low Profile GeForce RTX 3050 6GB 6 GB ($171.99 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT H7 Flow CM-H71FB-01 (2022) ATX Mid Tower ($89.99 @ Best Buy)
Power Supply: Thermaltake Toughpower GF A3 - TT Premium Edition 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Keyboard & Mouse Combo: A4Tech 4200N Wireless

Total: $1146.82​

CPU cooler - do i need Deepcool Ak620?
Case - do Lian Li Lancool II Mesh is better than my above one?
etc.
I mean, any suggestion for any part would be highly appreciated.

And I would love if anyone suggest a suitable monitor (in between 24" to 27") & a UPS.

Thanks in advance.​

 

[drjohnnyfever]

I know next to nothing about monitors, but I may start the investigation to get my son one for his gamer for Christmas.

Your setup is almost identical to my son's. I think you might be able to save a little money by taking a chance with the Amazon Warehouse/ Amazon Resale. The MSI Pro 790-A Wifi is still available at like $140. I don't know how much different the P is compared to the A, but that would save you about $100 and then you could use that toward a slightly newer GPU. There are a lot of RTX 3060 12GB cards available. And if you're willing to take a chance on a "Like New" model from Amazon Resale, those are only like $240. I also haven't been following RAM lately, but ripjaws are great, altho I usually end up with Crucial and save a little there.

I paid a little more for the i5-14600K. $300, but that was it's lowest a year ago. It's fun to work with and super fast. Those links I posted above are really helpful for getting the most out of it. When you get it assembled and post the first time, the MSI might ask you to make a bios setup decision based on your cooler type... Choose the stock fan first and let it boot up. Put your Windows (and other software if you want) on and then Cinebench23 it while running CPUID HWMonitor to see your starting point and temps. Stop the test if you see temps at 100C. You likely won't with the stock cooler settings. You should be runnning out of the box like 4.9Ghz Power cores and 3.5Ghz Efficiency cores. I have mine up to 5.4 and 4.3, but I had to change a couple things that I can share once you get started and I need to refresh my memory what I did. Anyway, it's easy and you'll have some setup time here once you get all the parts for me to get that info for you. But watch those videos in the links about the MSI boards and the undervolting to get an idea of where you are going to be in the bios.

Good luck.

***As long as the stuff you buy thru Amazon Resale says, "Sold by Amazon" or "Sold by Amazon Resale" it is completely returnable FOR ANY REASON. I just bought a Ryzen 7 5700G that I'm going to put in to my Streamer/Server PC this weekend. If I open it and pins are bent, back it goes. If it won't boot and I can't figure it out, back it goes. Has to be sold by Amazon tho...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CJSJ9TB3/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CJSJ9TB3/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&psc=1

 

[drjohnnyfever]

Hey, so I had a chance to check what I did with the i5-14600K in the bios of the MSI Pro Z790-A WIFI...

Here's the link to make it easy. Tuning a 14600K on a MSI Pro Z790-A

I flashed the bios without putting the CPU in with the Flash usb feature on the io of that MSI board, first. Easy, and the video is available on the MSI site. Get everything up and running first on whatever the lowest settings offered when you're posting... Stock Cooler or Intel Defualts, not sure what it is with the new bios updates. Get all of your stuff on and then Cinebench23 it while watching your HWMonitor. The temps shouldn't get into the 90C's, with your cooler, but if they do just watch it. This is your baseline and it will probably surprise you. If you see 100C on any core during any test, shut it down immediately!

Once you have everything ready, restart and go back into the bios, I then chose water cooler option after A LOT of tinkering. Then follow the directions in the link above. Just changing what he has pictured at the top is enough, the comments and how the thread develops sort of confuses what he did a little. I was able to get my undervolt to Mode 5 too on the CPU Lite settings after manually setting the P and E cores higher as pictured in that link. I think I wound up with setting the p cores at 55 and the e cores at 44. That's with the Water Cooler setting, (there's a cooler choice in the Bios, but it escapes me what it's called...( just scroll thru the bios settings and you'll find it.) which optimizes everything, and then the undervolting to get the temps down while keeping the performance up.

With those simple changes, it ran cooler and faster than any of the stock settings. My son has been using it without issue for about a month since I did the most recent Bios update and did these simple changes. My Cinebench23 was 25xxx. And that was while running antivirus and a couple other startup programs in the background. *Edit* The HWMonitor showed it was pinned at 5.49Ghz on the P-Cores and 4.39Ghz on the E-Cores while running Cinebench 23, with temps only into the very low 80C's.

Good luck. Looking forward to see how yours turns out.