Question Need Some Case Fan Cooling Advice

MasterYoda327

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May 26, 2019
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I am doing research for a new gaming PC. This PC will also be used for drone video editing. I also rip music CDs from time to time. I intend to replace my Corsair 600T case and am currently leaning toward either the Phanteks Enthoo Pro or Enthoo Pro 2. I have used the built-in fan controller on my Corsair case to manually cool my case with the power setting usually around 50%. I also have an Aerocool F6XT fan controller that was intended for another build that I had to cancel during the pandemic. I have noticed during my research that case fan controllers are becoming rare. I also understand that there is software designed to control case fans. Which ever case I purchase, I intend to install the maximum number of largest diameter fans that it supports. I don't do overclocking. So, my questions are as followed:

1. Should I ditch the physical fan controller? If so, what would be a reliable, easy to use, trustworthy, and free or low-price fan control software program that works in Windows that I should get?
2. If you recommend that I keep a physical fan controller, would my Aerocool F6XT fan controller be sufficient? Can it handle fan cable splitters? If yes, what splitter cables would you recommend?
3. In relation to the previous question, if you recommend a different physical fan controller, which would you recommend?
4. Would the Phanteks Enthoo Pro or Enthoo Pro 2 case provide better cooling or would either one meet my cooling needs?
5. As a side question, would the Enthoo Pro or Enthoo Pro 2 case better meet my long-term needs when it comes to upgrading and rebuilding the computer in the future?

Thanks in advance.
 
I also have an Aerocool F6XT fan controller that was intended for another build that I had to cancel during the pandemic.
Is that why you're looking at cases with 5.25" drive bays? If so, you have better alternatives.

1| Pick up a PWM fan hub(this would mean you pick up PWM fans as well) and then set a fan curve within your BIOS.

4| Yes.

5| You don't need such a large case unless you're going to be stuffing some very high end gear alongside watercooling gear. What are you going to be building inside the case? As in, what are the specs to your proposed build? You could get away with a smaller atx case or an matx case.
 
At the heart if this thread is why use a third-party fan controller at all? ALL mobos have CONTROL of case fans built into each SYS_FAN or CHA_FAN header. Such controls always concentrate on keeping the TEMPERATURE measured at a relevant sensor on target. For case fans, normally that sensor is one placed on the mobo by its maker at a location they decide is best representative of cooling needs of the entire mobo, and the pre-programmed temp target and fan curve are what they consider optimum. You also get a few alternatives of control strategy, and the option to set your own custom "fan curve" of fan speed to run for a given measure temp. So case fan speeds done that way VARY according to the actual heat load as your work changes.

The limit on this pertinent to OP is that most such fan headers can supply power up to 1.0 A max current for the TOTAL of all fans on that header. For OP who wants to add a LOT of cans, there is a good alternative pointed out by Lutfij above - a fan HUB. This device allows you to connect many fans to a single speed control signal from a mobo header. Note that Splitters and Hubs are different devices, and sellers OFTEN mis-label them. A HUB (suited to OP) has THREE types of connections. ONE is a cable to a mobo SYS_FAN or CHA_FAN header to get its speed control PWM signal and to return to that header the speed reported by ONE of the fans. (Note that the control system does NOT need to know the speed of any fan, so knowing ONLY ONE fan's speed is OK.) The Hub has several outputs for plugging in user's fans. The Hub ALSO has one cable that must plug into a SATA or a 4-pin Molex power output directly from the PSU. This avoids the max current limit of a mobo header. The limit for a Hub normally would be 4.5 A total max current, or even higher if the power input is from a Molex connector. Since most case fans use 0.10 to 0.25 A max current, 4.5 A max from a Hub means 18 fans or more, and FEW people would need that!
 
5| You don't need such a large case unless you're going to be stuffing some very high end gear alongside watercooling gear. What are you going to be building inside the case? As in, what are the specs to your proposed build? You could get away with a smaller atx case or an matx case.
Thanks for the input, I will definitely take a look at PWM fans and hubs. My intent for this gaming PC is for both gaming and drone video editing (I am both a gamer and licensed drone pilot). Secondary uses will be for music listening (from my own music files) and some online streaming. In addition to the standard components like the CPU (AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D or higher), CPU cooler(not selected yet), RAM (32 GB or higher), and motherboard[X870/X870E ATX/E-ATX (have not selected brand or model yet)], I intend to add the following components:

- 1 PCIE 5.0 NVME SSD at 2 TB for the Windows 11 OS, video editing software, and primary games
- 2 SATA III SSDs at 2 or 3 TB each with one dedicated for additional games and the other for my music collection
- Either 2 smaller SATA III HDDs (such as 3 or 4 TB) or 1 larger HDD (such as 6 or 8 TB) for storing drone videos for editing
- At least 2 additional drives bays to add an additional SATA SSD and/or HDD if necessary
- 1 internal Wi-Fi 6E/7 card
- 1 USB 3.0 Type-A expansion card (rear)
- 1-USB Type-C expansion card (rear)
- 1 GPU (Either Radeon RX 9070 XT or Nvidia RTX 5070 or higher)
- 1 Blu Ray drive and 1 DVD drive for ripping and burning audio CDs and possibly drone videos (Sometimes one optical drive has issues ripping a CD while the other doesn't with that same CD. I am also open to possibly using external enclosures for the optical drives.)
- Possibly 1 front mounted expansion card with USB-C capability
- Possibly 1 internal soundcard for gaming and music (Haven't decided if I will go with an internal or external soundcard)
- At least 1 additional rear expansion slot if I need to add an additional internal card such as USB or sound card
- Maximum number of large diameter fan's that the case supports
- 80 Plus Gold power supply
- Not planning for any RGB lighting (Except for keyboard and mouse)

I am open to suggestions on alternative reliable cases with good airflow that would meet my needs priced up to $250.

Thanks.
 
Some hints
1. SSD Mounting. The SATA type SSD units are so small you normally need a small stamped metal adapter plate to fasten one into a standard 3½" HDD slot. MANY of these actually come designed to fit TWO such SATA SSD units into ONE adapter / slot in a stack, so that saves you space.

2. Most mobos have quite good audio systems built in (usually by Realtek) capable of flexible outputs to up to 5.1 Surround Sound (sometimes 7.1) plus 2-channel stereo earphones plus mic input. True audiophiles sometimes want better audio quality and opt for third-party added sound cards, but many ears cannot tell the difference. SOME need more flexibility and control of inputs for complex multiple sources and mixing, and may need a sound card or some external mixer for that. But for everyday listening and simple recording, a mobo-based system does the job well. See also Item 10 below.

3. All mobos have a system that can put out small audio beep codes to indicate problems at boot-up or to confirm a clean no-problem boot. The "beep codes" are not universally standardized, but you can dig up info on them for your particular mobo. At one time all mobos had a tiny "speaker" so you could hear these, but most now do not, so you cannot hear them. However, the Front Panel header on the mobo (often front bottom corner) has four pins marked SPKR, and there you can plug in a tiny cheap "beeper" accessory you can buy so you can hear these beep codes IF you want them. This "speaker" can NOT put out any normal audio from anywhere; further, those beep codes are NOT available to hear from any normal audio output device. In addition now, many mobos have one or more LED lamps to show diagnostic codes, and usually their info coding is shown in the mobo manual.

4. Re SATA HDD's check the costs. Often a single larger unit is cheaper per GB than a pair of smaller.

5. You made no notes about provision for data backups.

6. A good WiFi and Bluetooth system may be built into your mobo. Likewise a wired network port.

7. USB ports can get confusing because the names have changed. Start with simple older USB2. Most mobos have a least one (often 2) headers on the mobo, but VERY often there are NO sockets for these exposed on the mobo's rear connection panel. So then IF you want to use them for older slow devices like keyboards, mice, and old peripherals (thus saving USB3.2 sockets for newer fast devices) you need to create external sockets. This is easy. You can buy small items like this

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Port-Female-Plate-Adapter/dp/B00015Y0FK/ref=sr_1_5?crid=30ZQ9NMTI5BKM&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.8LYrW5_Yl4wixw_w8P_KIqIc5j1YpdwWIA7_C6czymcOFwpuMygK90522TnM-KT4gjl_4T_zV6sRZT8IIBh3CsFvJti9tNmam_kuLmR9gs0ErASP4TkFGgqn3i5O7odUSNVqUw4kdHHIgRe4FBuowiwAOVPgqDttX9zyqptXO4AcMZcehQH5uywOSLByL4oN8CCSMvJmTIJbmlgBvYSKnQMgZbPZBV9y_ZMuPO4_zuk.5R1-uouQ7WJGjlE1yp6tvRHdgq6Egzs4GKgngDM1hGw&dib_tag=se&keywords=usb+2+plate&qid=1737133942&sprefix=usb+2+plate,aps,146&sr=8-5

That one deals with a mobo with TWO USB2 headers (there is a design for a single header) and mounts in an unused PCIe slot on the back of your computer. It makes the TWO ports of each single standard USB2 mobo header available on the back of your system.

8. Newer USB now all are called USB 3.2 Genn where the n specifies which speed version. Gen1 can move data at up to 5 Gb/s and uses either the USB 3.2 version of the old Type A sockets and connectors, or the newer Type C. Gen2 can move data up to 10 Gb/s and should really be used only with Type C connections, but can be used with Type A which may or may not achieve the full speed. Gen2x2 can reach 20 Gb/s and MUST be used with Type C. On a mobo the speeds are determined by which controller chip is used. Gen1 and Gen2 both use 19-in mobo headers of the same design, and each contains TWO actual ports. Many mobos place sockets for either or both port types on their rear panels in addition to mobo headers. Although technically they should use Type A for Gen1 and Type C for Gen2, very often some Gen2 ports are provided with Type A sockets just for convenience. (You can buy small adapters to convert such a Type A Gen2 socket to a Type C if you need that.) Cases with front panel USB 3.2 sockets of either Type and either Gen come with cables to plug into mobo 19-pin headers. For Gen2x2 the mobo header is a new Type E containing only one port. SOME cases come with front panel Type C sockets and an internal cable to plug into that Type E mobo header for such a port. Right now there are LOTS of USB 3.2 devices that use Gen1 fully, some that can use the speed of Gen2, and very few that really can use Gen2x2 speeds, but more of those will come. Consider your current and potential devices and uses for USB 3.2 ports as you choose a mobo and case. Note also that the USB systems all include backwards compatibility. That is, if you plug into any socket or port a device (or a limited-speed cable) that runs at a slower data rate, the port WILL work at that lower rate.

9. Note that the speed specs for USB 3.2 are the max data rates the communication subsystem can deliver. By design this is FASTER than the actual performance ability of the device so that the comm subsystem does not limit device performance. For example, no mechanical hard drive (with spinning disks) can deliver data over about 3 or 4 Gb/s. SOME SSD's can exceed that and get over 5 Gb/s (Gen1), but none yet can actually reach Gen2 max data rate of 10 Gb/s.

10. Any VIDEO card you install will also contain its own AUDIO output chip. This is because there is no standard way to send audio from a mobo or a sound card to a video card, and these days most VIDEO cars are sending their info out on HDMI cables to a monitor. So having an AUDIO chip on the video card means that cards CAN send stereo audio (but not surround sound) out on the HDMI cable to the monitor. Now, Windows can use only ONE Sound Output Device at at a time, no matter how many such devices may be in your system, and there's a simple Windows setting (in Sound Settings) you can change manually for WHICH device is to be used to send out audio. If you want sound to come from your monitor's stereo speakers you can tell it to use the audio ability of your video card. If you want to output from your mobo's audio system (Item 3 above) OR from an added sound card, you can choose either of those and ensure that you make the right connections from mobo or sound card sockets to your speakers. Anything more complex than stereo audio will require that since the system in a video card can do only 2-channel stereo. That also may impact use of headphones.
 
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