Build Advice New $2000 build based on Toms Guide ?

Muckster

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Just starting to contemplate a new build for under $2,000. I'm using Tom's Gaming $2,000 as a starting point. I'm an old gamer and I've built many PCs, but I don't keep up with the technology until just before buying a new PC. I've looked through Tom's guide. This will be my first liquid cooling build. What I most want to know is if there is any hardware bottlenecking the build or I can get better bang for my buck by putting a little more money in. Anyway, using Tom's guide as a base, here are some of my own guidelines and preferences...

** Edit: Please change Tom's build (my listed build) to be designed around an Nvidia GPU instead of AMD.

I don't overclock and I don't upgrade. I use quality components to build PCs that last longer than I need them after which I usually pass them down to a family member.

• I'm old(er) and am willing to pay a little more if it can be justified, although bang-for-buck is my guiding principle.

• I prefer a quieter case and am open to paying more for components to get there. Case, fans, PSU, etc.

• I'm not the gamer I used to be, but I would be very interested in comfortably playing next generation games like the next Skyrim (Elder Scrolls 6), GTA 6, etc. I know, these titles aren't even likely to come out in 2025, but for those who follow the tech they are likely to use, please apply your knowlege and advice!

• I'd really like to play around with Stable Diffusion. I see Tom's recommending the RX 7900 for this price range which comes in with 20GB vram. Vram seems to be the selling point for Stable Diffusion, and 20GB seems like plenty. However, Stable Diffusion is inherently built around Nvidia, so I need an Nvida GPU, not AMD.

• I don't care about pretty lights or fancy looks. The case will be enclosed on three sides in a desk with a cupboard door in front for access. If the Y40 case can be swapped out for something better (quieter, better cooling, etc) in exchange for a more boring looking case, I'm fine with that. The Y40 had some mixed reviews from what I've seen so in particular I'm looking for other case suggestions.

Other than that, I'm just getting started in this process so I apologize ahead of time if I'm a bit wishy washy in what I want and what's out there. Usually takes me a little while to get back into the right mind set.

That said, I'm open to any of your suggestions. Toms Hardware forum has always been outstanding. I have much respect for you guys & gals!

** Edit: Warned you I was new coming into this, so a few added questions.

• As mentioned, I'm new to liquid cooling. Am I also going to need a radiator? Does that come with the cooler or is that something else I should buy and/or make room for in my case?

• I really do want the highest speeds for USB. Isn't 3.2 the new standard? I see some cases don't support it, but I want some top ports to have that feature.

Generally, I would appreciate those helping me to give a little technical support for why they are swapping out components from Tom's build. You know how it is... some folks here know a lot and others less. With Tom's recommendation, I know it's been vetted. If you can explain a little why you know better than Tom, please justify. That said, I'm certainly not opposed to swapping out componets as you tailor to my preferences.

Oh, and can someone tell me how to list out the PC Parts Picker components on my OP? Everyone else seems to know how to do this but me. lol.

Tom's $2,000 Build
https://www.tomshardware.com/best-picks/best-pc-builds-gaming

PC Parts Picker
https://pcpartpicker.com/user/pshopper/saved/#view=GQ9GjX
 
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Modified your build a bit:

Big and quiet air cooler, no worries about pump failing after 5 years.

Mobo with pcie 5.0 ssd support

Fast rams and SSD

Big and quiet triple fan GPU model

Case with quiet 140mm fans

quiet 135mm fan PSU with 10 year warranty

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor ($394.00 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Deepcool AK620 ZERO DARK 68.99 CFM CPU Cooler ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte B650 AORUS ELITE AX ATX AM5 Motherboard ($199.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: TEAMGROUP T-Create Expert 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6400 CL32 Memory ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: HP FX900 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($119.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: XFX Speedster MERC 310 Black Edition Radeon RX 7900 XT 20 GB Video Card ($724.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Phanteks ECLIPSE G500A DRGB (Fanless) ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: MSI MPG A850G PCIE5 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Case Fan: ARCTIC P14 PST 72.8 CFM 140 mm Fans 5-Pack ($40.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1819.92
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-01-23 04:46 EST-0500
 
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Add the RTX 4070 Ti Super 16GB to this build when that card is released in a few days from now.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: *AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor ($394.00 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: *Deepcool AG620 67.88 CFM CPU Cooler ($43.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: *MSI B650 GAMING PLUS WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard ($179.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: *Silicon Power Value Gaming 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($84.57 @ Amazon)
Storage: *Western Digital Black SN850X 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($139.99 @ Adorama)
Case: *Lian Li LANCOOL 216 ATX Mid Tower Case ($96.99 @ Adorama)
Power Supply: *be quiet! Pure Power 12 M 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($109.90 @ Newegg Sellers)
Total: $1049.43
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-01-23 05:41 EST-0500
 
Thanks for reply. Can you explain why I need that faster memory? Is there something about Tom's build where the 36 memory is bottlenecking the bus speed or something to that effect? Also, that memory seems geared for Overclocking, something I'll never do.

As for the PSU, again leaning towards something quieter, is Seasonic still making good PSUs in the 850 style?
 
Modified your build a bit:

Big and quiet air cooler, no worries about pump failing after 5 years.

Mobo with pcie 5.0 ssd support

Fast rams and SSD

Big and quiet triple fan GPU model

Case with quiet 140mm fans

quiet 135mm fan PSU with 10 year warranty

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor ($394.00 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Deepcool AK620 ZERO DARK 68.99 CFM CPU Cooler ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte B650 AORUS ELITE AX ATX AM5 Motherboard ($199.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: TEAMGROUP T-Create Expert 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6400 CL32 Memory ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: HP FX900 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($119.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: XFX Speedster MERC 310 Black Edition Radeon RX 7900 XT 20 GB Video Card ($724.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Phanteks ECLIPSE G500A DRGB (Fanless) ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: MSI MPG A850G PCIE5 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Case Fan: ARCTIC P14 PST 72.8 CFM 140 mm Fans 5-Pack ($40.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1819.92
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-01-23 04:46 EST-0500
Thanks for the thoughtful reply Lucky. I didn't know the air cooler I started with was known to fail in 5 years and I appreciate you're looking to make it quieter.

However, I think you literally changed every component in my list. The thing about Tom's list is that I assume I'm getting quality name brand parts. Maybe the same is true for your list but with Tom's I'm sure it's open to broader criticism and vetting before being posted.

If you have the time could you elaborate a little more on why the components are better? I notice they are cheaper, which is great, but sometimes cheaper means giving up on things I don't want to give up on.

Oh, and I re-edited my OP just now because I made a fundamental error in that I want Nvidia not AMD for my GPU (due to wanting to work with Stable Diffusion).

In particular, I noticed the case you suggested doesn't have any sound proofing pading, and I believe the USB ports are 3.0 not 3.2. I want the latest tech if I can get it.

Also the sys ram you recommended is faster, but much cheaper. What's the trade off?


Thanks again
 
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Add the RTX 4070 Ti Super 16GB to this build when that card is released in a few days from now.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: *AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor ($394.00 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: *Deepcool AG620 67.88 CFM CPU Cooler ($43.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: *MSI B650 GAMING PLUS WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard ($179.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: *Silicon Power Value Gaming 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($84.57 @ Amazon)
Storage: *Western Digital Black SN850X 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($139.99 @ Adorama)
Case: *Lian Li LANCOOL 216 ATX Mid Tower Case ($96.99 @ Adorama)
Power Supply: *be quiet! Pure Power 12 M 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($109.90 @ Newegg Sellers)
Total: $1049.43
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-01-23 05:41 EST-0500

Whyme,
I'm just realizing I need to switch the build to work around and Nvida GPU instead of AMD becuase that will work better for Stable Diffusion. My bad in figuring that out after my OP (but I did go back and edit it).

Also, whatever the GPU, being I started with 20GB vram, I'm not going to want to drop to 16gb vram unless someone can explain to me why that's an improvment for Stable Diffusion.

And just generally, if you could explain more techincally why you switched out certain components for others, that would be appreciated.

Thanks
 
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Thanks for the thoughtful reply Lucky. I didn't know the air cooler I started with was known to fail in 5 years and I appreciate you're looking to make it quieter.

However, I think you literally changed every component in my list. The thing about Tom's list is that I assume I'm getting quality name brand parts. Maybe the same is true for your list but with Tom's I'm sure it's open to broader criticism and vetting before being posted.

If you have the time could you elaborate a little more on why the components are better? I notice they are cheaper, which is great, but sometimes cheaper means giving up on things I don't want to give up on.

Oh, and I re-edited my OP just now because I made a fundamental error in that I want Nvidia not AMD for my GPU (due to wanting to work with Stable Diffusion).

In particular, I noticed the case you suggested doesn't have any sound proofing pading, and I believe the USB ports are 3.0 not 3.2. I want the latest tech if I can get it.

Also the sys ram you recommended is faster, but much cheaper. What's the trade off there? Again, I'm not up to speed on some of the or even the specs so forgive me if my questions are ignorant.


Thanks again

The tom's guide is more genralised. You have gaming and stable diffusion as your primary requirements.

The only component that i feel is not really top tier is the SSD.

https://www.tomshardware.com/features/ssd-benchmarks-hierarchy#section-m-2-2230-ssd-hierarchy

The other parts are High end, best in class as far as i can tell.

Search for individual reviews of the parts i chose if you want an indepth info on the parts and you will know what i mean.

@Why_Me suggestion of 4070ti Super is indeed the correct choice here. Refer the Puget systems link that i posted above.

with a big boi chonky GPU and 140mm 23db fans and quiet cooler and PSU, you dont really need sound damping.

Also, with such high end parts, you should prioritise airflow and temps more. That Hyte Y40 is not better than the P500 when it comes to acoustic performance.

the P500 has front panel type C:

Front Panel USB​

  • USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
  • USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A
 
Whyme,
I'm just realizing I need to switch the build to work around and Nvida GPU instead of AMD becuase that will work better for Stable Diffusion. My bad in figuring that out after my OP (but I did go back and edit it).

Also, whatever the GPU, being I started with 20GB vram, I'm not going to want to drop to 16gb vram unless someone can explain to me why that's an improvment for Stable Diffusion.

And just generally, if you could explain more techincally why you switched out certain components for others, that would be appreciated.

Thanks
Shark (AMD) or Automatic 1111 (Nvidia)
 
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Shark (AMD) or Automatic 1111 (Nvidia)
I have only tried Automatic1111 on my current PC which as an AMD GPU and only 4gb vram. It's been limited.

Well, here again I've only played with SD enough to want to explore it more. Isn't it still true that it was designed around the Nvidia chip? If so I would guess Automatic1111 is superior to Shark, although I've heard AMD is trying to catchup. I'm not active in any kind of SD community to know better.
 
I have only tried Automatic1111 on my current PC which as an AMD GPU and only 4gb vram. It's been limited.

Well, here again I've only played with SD enough to want to explore it more. Isn't it still true that it was designed around the Nvidia chip? If so I would guess Automatic1111 is superior to Shark, although I've heard AMD is trying to catchup. I'm not active in any kind of SD community to know better.
Automatic 1111 <--- go with an Nvidia card if that's the program you intend to use.
 
The tom's guide is more genralised. You have gaming and stable diffusion as your primary requirements.

Right on.


I didn't see the HP you recommened in the line up but maybe I just didn't interpret the chipset. To be clear, on second thought, you're saying you'd recommend (Tom's) WD over the HP? It wouldn't be crazy for me to use this new build for 10 years.


The other parts are High end, best in class as far as i can tell.

Search for individual reviews of the parts i chose if you want an indepth info on the parts and you will know what i mean.

Right.

@Why_Me suggestion of 4070ti Super is indeed the correct choice here. Refer the Puget systems link that i posted above.

Great. thank you. I'll do that before I comment more.


with a big boi chonky GPU and 140mm 23db fans and quiet cooler and PSU, you dont really need sound damping.

Also, with such high end parts, you should prioritise airflow and temps more. That Hyte Y40 is not better than the P500 when it comes to acoustic performance.

the P500 has front panel type C:

Front Panel USB​

  • USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
  • USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A

Oh, okay, I think your PP list showed the G, not the P. Man, I'm having a hard time finding the P500. Not even at New Egg. Link me if you've got it.

That said, I'm really hoping I can find a case with TOP ports rather than side. Type-A is still the most common, right? Is C taking over?

Just to be clear Lucky, I'm not questioning your wisdom here. You sure seem to know your stuff. I'm just trying to get a better understanding of the justifications within my limited knowledge of the newer tech trends. Again, this is the first build I've done in about 5 years so I'm rusty and trying to get my bearings. :)
 
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Automatic 1111 <--- go with an Nvidia card if that's the program you intend to use.
Right, but check the order of the reasoning here.... Given my limited knowledge of SD, it's my understanding that it was designed around the Nvida chipset. So my thinking is I should go with Automatic1111 becuase it's based on Nvidia, not the other way around.

I assume Automatic1111 is superior to Shark BECAUSE Automatic1111 runs on Nvida, not AMD. Can anyone correct my assumption?
 
The FX900pro is in the 2tb section of the list.

I would recommend either the crucial T500 or the Kingston KC3000.

The case is indeed the G500A. My bad typing P500 in the previous post.

The newegg link in Pcpp page links to tye correct item, G500A.

The G500A is the latest revision iirc. The P500 is an old design.
 
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Right, but check the order of the reasoning here.... Given my limited knowledge of SD, it's my understanding that it was designed around the Nvida chipset. So my thinking is I should go with Automatic1111 becuase it's based on Nvidia, not the other way around.

I assume Automatic1111 is superior to Shark BECAUSE Automatic1111 runs on Nvida, not AMD. Can anyone correct my assumption?
The only thing I know about SD was what I read in that link.
 
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@Why_Me suggestion of 4070ti Super is indeed the correct choice here. Refer the Puget systems link that i posted above.

I'm feeling a little behind on the specs, but I've looked more closely at the pudget systems link. I'm not seeing an apples to apples.

So, with Automatic1111, the RTX 4070ti comes out at 17.64. Meanwhile, the RX 7900 XTX shows a better 20.76 on Shark, but that's a higher end card than the RX 7900 XT which Tom recommended, but Pudget didn't test the XT. I'm not sure how to compare that. Pudget article was 7/31/23.

Also, I realize that Whyme was suggesting the RTX 4070ti Super, which apparently hasn't come out yet which makes me worry about the sticker price. lol. Also, based on my little knowledge of SD, it just seems wrong that a card with 16 vram is going to outperform a card with 20vram.

This similar Tom's article is newer (12/14/23)
https://www.tomshardware.com/pc-components/gpus/stable-diffusion-benchmarks

It wasn't clear to me what resolution Pudget was testing on, but Tom's article doesn't differentiate between Automatic1111 and Shark. Using 768x768 resolution for testing, it puts the RTX4070ti at 15.89. It lists the RX 7900 XT at 9.54 and the RX 7900 XTX at 10.91. Nvidia is the clearer winner and probably more so when the RTX 4070ti SUPER comes out.

Well, I know I'm making a mess of this thread and I see new posts are coming out. Sorry if I've been repetitive, but I really want to nail down, in terms of SD, which is the better way to go for me, Nvida or AMD. But I don't want to compromise regular gaming or throw away my budget. I'm not a pro SD user, just someone who enjoys the process, but you know how it is... you want to geek out and get the best thing for your buck.

Also,
 
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The only thing I know about SD was what I read in that link.
Cool. Maybe I need to step back and do more research on what's better for SD.

As the linked article states, "Currently, this means that AMD has a slight price-to-performance advantage with the RX 7900 XTX, but as developers often favor NVIDIA GPUs, this could easily change in the future. AMD has been doing a lot of work to increase GPU support in the AI space, but they haven’t yet matched NVIDIA."

And if I'm reading Tom's newer article right, it does look like Nvida took the lead again, but it's confusing becuase Tom didn't break it down into Automatic1111 vs. Shark.

Is there a moderator here known for their knowledge on SD and which GPU would better? It seems to be changing so fast and I'm clearly out of league, but it's a core question I need to answer before doing my build.
 
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the 4070Ti Super review is out.

https://www.tomshardware.com/pc-components/gpus/nvidia-geforce-rtx-4070-ti-super-review

If you prefer ray tracing in games and want to use A1111, i think you summarized the answer yourself in your post above 😉

takeaway fom the puget article: VRAM is not the only criterion for SD performance...
lol, but I'm not sure if I prefer Automatic1111. Is there a moderator here who really knows SD well enough to get into the weeds enough to point me to Nvidia or AMD GPU and maybe put the amount of Vram into perspective for me?

I had to look up ray tracing... Again, best I can say is maybe, but it's one more factor in Nvidia's favor.
 
Cool. Maybe I need to step back and do more research on what's better for SD.

As the linked article states, "Currently, this means that AMD has a slight price-to-performance advantage with the RX 7900 XTX, but as developers often favor NVIDIA GPUs, this could easily change in the future. AMD has been doing a lot of work to increase GPU support in the AI space, but they haven’t yet matched NVIDIA."

And if I'm reading Tom's newer article right, it does look like Nvida took the lead again, but it's confusing becuase Tom didn't break it down into Automatic1111 vs. Shark.

Is there a moderator here known for their knowledge on SD and which GPU would better? It seems to be changing so fast and I'm clearly out of league, but it's a core question I need to answer before doing my build.

Maybe your question is geared to a forum that focuses on SD topics primarily. Tom's is generalised PC tech.

Maybe someone else would pitch in with more experience, but i am not an expert in this field.
 
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The FX900pro is in the 2tb section of the list.

Ah, I see it now. Sorry I made you waste your time checking that again. Anyway, so it looks the the original WD is better than the HP. I'll go with WD. Thanks for the clarification.

I would recommend either the crucial T500 or the Kingston KC3000.

The case is indeed the G500A. My bad typing P500 in the previous post.

The newegg link in Pcpp page links to tye correct item, G500A.

The G500A is the latest revision iirc. The P500 is an old design.
Okay, now I see it over at NewEgg.

https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E168118...&ranSiteID=8BacdVP0GFs-m6w2pEpeVXFTJfIC3fIrBA

Listed under New Egg's Specs for FRONT PORTS it says "2x USB 3.0, USB-C Gen2, Microphone/Headphone Combo, Power Button, Reset Button"

Yet the image clearly shows the ports on the top which I think is correct. Still, it's listing as USB 3.0 not the newer 3.2. Confused where you got your stats above.

At $70 it's a lot cheaper than $149 for the Hyte Y40. Mabye there's a newer version of the Phantek that supports 3.2.
 
USB - C Gen 2 is USB 3.2 Gen 2.

The standard type A is limited to 10gbps USB 3.1 spec. USB 3.2 gen 2 is 20gbps and above spec, like the USB 3.2 gen 2X2 and USB 4 ect
Okay, so there just isn't going to be a 3.2 version for Type A. Type C is the newer hardware being adapted?

So when I use something like a 400MB/s on a flash drive, that's only read speed, not write speed, and it's no where close to the 10gbps USB speed which has more to do with communication over the line than writing/reading data. That about right? Sorry, I warned you I was ignorant. lol

https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-512G...fos.18ed3cb5-28d5-4975-8bc7-93deae8f9840&th=1