Build Advice New $2000 build based on Toms Guide ?

[helper800]

It took me a while to meet all of the criteria making a build tailored to your needs, but I believe this is the best option for price to performance while sacrificing no quality.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor ($394.00 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($35.90 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte B650 AORUS ELITE AX ATX AM5 Motherboard ($199.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Flare X5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($104.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Gigabyte AORUS Gen4 7000s 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($159.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus TUF GAMING GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER 16 GB Video Card ($799.99)
Case: Lian Li LANCOOL 216 ATX Mid Tower Case ($96.99 @ Adorama)
Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS GX-850 ATX 3.0 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($164.99 @ B&H)
Total: $1956.84
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-01-23 14:20 EST-0500

With regards to the CPU, as others have shown and stated, the 7800x3d is the clear winner for gaming right now, and is no slouch for productivity tasks. It's only con is that for the cost you can make a more powerful productivity specific computer with a 13700/14700 from intel or even a 7900x from AMD.

I chose the Thermalright phantom spirit CPU cooler instead of the AK620 that Lucky_SLS chose for his build because its a significantly better value. Both coolers perform very similarly to each other, but the thermalright is almost half the cost. Thermalright, and specifically their CPU coolers, are respected for their coolers not just their cheapness but unrivaled performance at the price points they touch with this and a few other coolers.

As with Lucky_SLS, I chose the same motherboard for the same reasons. It has good VRMs and it is not missing any major features at a good price point, comparatively speaking.

I chose this memory kit specifically because it has an EXPO profile, it has tight timings at CL 30... and hits the prefered speed of 6000 MT/s that these AMD 7000 series CPUs seem to love. Too much faster and you could have some problems with the memory controller on the CPU. G. Skill is one of the best RAM manufacturers out there and has a lifetime warranty on their kits that they will actually honor.

The Gigabyte AORUS drive has several things going for it that differentiates it from the other drives mentioned above. First off, the drive is quality, is fast, runs cool, and most importantly has a DRAM cache. The other drives mentioned so far do not have DRAM caches, and this has several implications. DRAM caches allow a solid state drive to remain fast while transferring large amounts of data for much longer than DRAMless drives. DRAMless drives use their own empty storage space as a cache and this may not be so important at first, but when the drive starts to fill up and get around 80% full they can become much slower than when they have more space available to them. DRAM cache drives last longer than DRAMless drives because they write to the drive less often.

Since the 4070 Ti supers are not available right this moment I added one with a custom price as a placeholder. I believe this GPU is the right choice for your use case given everything said above.

The case I picked, the Lian Li 216, has the front ports you are looking for, is not atrociously large, and comes with 160mm large front intake fans that move even more air than 140mm's at the same noise level. No need to purchase additional fans with this case. The case also performs very well in terms of acoustics and airflow while being decently priced. Lian Li as a company has been making some of the best PC cases for over a decade.

And last, but not least, the PSU. I personally love Seasonic PSUs and would argue they are still the best made PSUs in the world, although Corsair is giving them a run for their money. Though Corsair only designs their PSUs, and do not manufacture them, and even so, they are amongst the best. The particular Seasonic PSU I picked is ATX 3.0 and the fan does not turn on unless needed. It is a very quiet unit with a great 10 year warranty.

Please let me know if you have any more specific questions about any of the parts I picked above!

 

[Lucky_SLS]

The T500 has 2gb DRAM cache for the 2tb model and performs better than the aorus while costing less.

The other nitpick would be going for the top cover version of the phantom spirit cooler for 38 USD. spending 3 USD more for cleaner looks is preferrable if you ask me. unfortunately, when i bought my cooler during black friday, they did not have that version on sale here in the UK 🙁

But i am not too fussed about it as my PC is a living room PC and i dont look at it often/not near me.

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/zkWJ7P/thermalright-phantom-spirit-6617-cfm-cpu-cooler-ps120

 

[helper800]

The T500 has 2gb DRAM cache for the 2tb model and performs better than the aorus while costing less.

The other nitpick would be going for the top cover version of the phantom spirit cooler for 38 USD. spending 3 USD more for cleaner looks is preferrable if you ask me.

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/zkWJ7P/thermalright-phantom-spirit-6617-cfm-cpu-cooler-ps120

I was not seeing the T500 for less on PCPP, but if so that is a clear choice over the AORUS drive. Nice catch! The OP said they didn't really care for the aesthetics of their build as much, so another 3 dollars saved. Personally, I like cleaner looking builds as well and would pay another 3 dollars for it, but, "To each their own," they say!

 

[Muckster]

It took me a while to meet all of the criteria making a build tailored to your needs, but I believe this is the best option for price to performance while sacrificing no quality.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor ($394.00 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($35.90 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte B650 AORUS ELITE AX ATX AM5 Motherboard ($199.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Flare X5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($104.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Gigabyte AORUS Gen4 7000s 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($159.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus TUF GAMING GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER 16 GB Video Card ($799.99)
Case: Lian Li LANCOOL 216 ATX Mid Tower Case ($96.99 @ Adorama)
Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS GX-850 ATX 3.0 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($164.99 @ B&H)
Total: $1956.84
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-01-23 14:20 EST-0500

With regards to the CPU, as others have shown and stated, the 7800x3d is the clear winner for gaming right now, and is no slouch for productivity tasks. It's only con is that for the cost you can make a more powerful productivity specific computer with a 13700/14700 from intel or even a 7900x from AMD.

I chose the Thermalright phantom spirit CPU cooler instead of the AK620 that Lucky_SLS chose for his build because its a significantly better value. Both coolers perform very similarly to each other, but the thermalright is almost half the cost. Thermalright, and specifically their CPU coolers, are respected for their coolers not just their cheapness but unrivaled performance at the price points they touch with this and a few other coolers.

As with Lucky_SLS, I chose the same motherboard for the same reasons. It has good VRMs and it is not missing any major features at a good price point, comparatively speaking.

I chose this memory kit specifically because it has an EXPO profile, it has tight timings at CL 30... and hits the prefered speed of 6000 MT/s that these AMD 7000 series CPUs seem to love. Too much faster and you could have some problems with the memory controller on the CPU. G. Skill is one of the best RAM manufacturers out there and has a lifetime warranty on their kits that they will actually honor.

The Gigabyte AORUS drive has several things going for it that differentiates it from the other drives mentioned above. First off, the drive is quality, is fast, runs cool, and most importantly has a DRAM cache. The other drives mentioned so far do not have DRAM caches, and this has several implications. DRAM caches allow a solid state drive to remain fast while transferring large amounts of data for much longer than DRAMless drives. DRAMless drives use their own empty storage space as a cache and this may not be so important at first, but when the drive starts to fill up and get around 80% full they can become much slower than when they have more space available to them. DRAM cache drives last longer than DRAMless drives because they write to the drive less often.

Since the 4070 Ti supers are not available right this moment I added one with a custom price as a placeholder. I believe this GPU is the right choice for your use case given everything said above.

The case I picked, the Lian Li 216, has the front ports you are looking for, is not atrociously large, and comes with 160mm large front intake fans that move even more air than 140mm's at the same noise level. No need to purchase additional fans with this case. The case also performs very well in terms of acoustics and airflow while being decently priced. Lian Li as a company has been making some of the best PC cases for over a decade.

And last, but not least, the PSU. I personally love Seasonic PSUs and would argue they are still the best made PSUs in the world, although Corsair is giving them a run for their money. Though Corsair only designs their PSUs, and do not manufacture them, and even so, they are amongst the best. The particular Seasonic PSU I picked is ATX 3.0 and the fan does not turn on unless needed. It is a very quiet unit with a great 10 year warranty.

Please let me know if you have any more specific questions about any of the parts I picked above!

Wow, such a detailed response. You and lucky and whyme have been so generous with your advice. This thread has given me a lot to review and I need a little time to digest it but I will post back later today or tomorrow. Just wanted to say thanks for the reply for now.


One of my questions was NVIDIA or AMD GPU. Think it's NVIDIA and the same GPU you included (that whyme suggested). Anyway get back to you on this...

 

[Muckster]

I was not seeing the T500 for less on PCPP, but if so that is a clear choice over the AORUS drive. Nice catch! The OP said they didn't really care for the aesthetics of their build as much, so another 3 dollars saved. Personally, I like cleaner looking builds as well and would pay another 3 dollars for it, but, "To each their own," they say!

It's true I don't care about looks, but I also don't care about $3 on a $2,000 PC. But I do appreciate the attention to detail. Great forum.

 

[Muckster]

The T500 has 2gb DRAM cache for the 2tb model and performs better than the aorus while costing less.

Lucky, could you please spoon feed me a link to that T500 so I know exactly what drive you're referencing...

 

[Lucky_SLS]

Lucky, could you please spoon feed me a link to that T500 so I know exactly what drive you're referencing...

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/M8...e-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-ct2000t500ssd8

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1791000-REG/crucial_ct2000t500ssd8_2tb_t500_pcie_4_0.html

 

[Muckster]

Okay, I've read and re-read all your posts and read/watched reviews. Great help!

I've used this forum for help building PCs going back 20 years now, often for friends of family. My current PC is almost 10 years old and running strong but I did replace my Samsung SSD (840 EVO 250GB) and one of the fans died on my Sapphire R9 290 Tri-x OC. I think that's pretty good for something I use every day and often have on for hours not to mention some heavy gaming at times. As a result, I have some bias towards some of the brands I've used although I don't know if these names have lost any credibilty in the last few years.

Before I go through and consider each component, I have to say I just don't have the knowledge to make jugement calls. Even if I read reviews and stats, I'm just not going to have the familiarity you guys have so I'm hoping among the three of you, you can help come to some kind of consesnsus as you've already done on a few of the components.

That said, to the extent that the disagreements are abouts aving money, I'd rather just spend the extra bucks and have the peace of mind. I spend much of my life poor, but I'm in my 50s now and if money can spar me having to agonize of what part to get, that's an easy choice. So... for the sake of making choices easier let's say the budget can flex another $150 IF NEEDED.

Anyway, you guys have given me three solid profiles with some good justifications. Let me go through component by component.

CPU: Easy everyone agrees. AMD Ryzen 7 7899x3DE. Done.

GPU: I think we all agree on the RTX 4070 Ti SUPER 16 GB. There are some AMDs with more vram, but I think it best meets my needs for gaming and the extra 4 GB vram from the 4070ti will come in handy if I get into Stable Diffusion which. From my research, the Nvidia seems to be better for SD overall. Sorry for the tortuous worm all I took you down trying to make a decision about that.

Anyway, they aren't out yet. I'm in hurry. Maybe you guys could help me pick a model when they launch. I'm not neccsarily afraid of FACTORY OCs as I've found them reliable in the past, but I don't think I'll need it with this build. In fact, this build is overkill for my needs, but that's good as I want to still be able to handle new game titles a few years down the line.

PSU: Those seasonics are expenisve, but I have used them in several builds and they are so reliable and relatively quiet. I didn't review the "be quiet" or check the stats, but in my experience on a gaming rig with all those fans running, a slightly quieter PSU won't make much difference. Lucky and whyme were trying to save me money, but can we all agree the Seasonic is better or at least no worse choice if you ignore the extra cost?

Case/Fans: Now that Lucky worked through my newbie questions, I have to say it's not that important to me what it looks like so long as the ports are on the top. I will be putting this case in a desk. The back of the desk is open. The front has a hinged cupboard door on it. I have a vent on the door to allow air in and I could install a vent on the desk on the wall next to the case if needed.

I've watched (skimmed) reviews on the cases you mentioned. I'm leaning towards the Lian Li LANCOOL 216, but the Phanteks ECLIPSE G500A would probably be fine. I've never used a fan hub like the one in Lian. So long as we are certain it's easily managed by the mobo, it's fine. Both cases are rated high for cooling so I'd probably lean to whatever case has less noise. If it's a wash, I guess I'll go with the majority and go with Lian if I can get Lucky to agree!

That said, I don't mind paying more for third party fans. I've done this in the past to keep the noise down. Again, the idea would be not just quiet buy reliable fans. Hate to see a component burn out becuase I didn't know a fan died. All my knowledge and care goes into building the PC. I don't wanna think or worry about it once it's in place. So, is there a fanless version of the Lian where I can install my own third party (reliable) fans on the assumption they would be quieter? Or are the onboard fans truly good enough?

Should I change the size of the fans or add more? I'm very willing to do this even if it bloats the budget. Reliablity and noise are key.

Finally, I'm not a fan of LED lights on my case. If they are subtle enough, it will be fine, but anything too bright or blinky I'd like to be able to turn off via the case itself or the CMOS. If not, there's always the option of black electrical tape.

Cooler.

I've never used liquid cooling or radiators. I'm guessing liquid coolers are a requirement for modern hotter CPUs. Perhaps more than any other component, I know nothing about these coolers so again all I can say is reliablity and NOISE are my biggest concerns. Can I get you guys to agree on one? Again, throw a little xtra case at it if that makes it easier.

Something else I've never used is a radiator. Do I need one? Are they expensive Would using a radiator mean I use fewer fans thus making the build quieter?

Storage: Well, I think you guys were leaning towards that T500. Can you weigh in on that Whyme? I've found some HP products to be unreilabe at times and my brand respect leans towards WD. Gigabyte I associate more with Mobos, but I know they are an old school solid brand name. I forgot to look at the states for these, but are they all the same speed? I'm assuming you guys know your stuff and have made sure I'm not bottlenecked by mobo bus speeds or anything like that. Or maybe the doesn't matter now that these drives aren't even cabled anymore.

Maybe I lean WD? Talk me out or into it?

Also, while 2TB is plenty, I might want a smallish back up SSD. Can you recommend a bang-for buck SSD I can cable in? Mabye a Samsung? (Don't consider this in the budget allowance).

Mainboard: I've used and trust Gigabyte, but i know MSI is a solid brand. Again, I haven't overclocked since the early Pentium days (told you I was old) so there's no point in paying extra for OC features. Sometimes I give away my old PCs, but even then I don't OC becuase who wants a friend/relative to come back asking for help with their failing used PC I gave them for free?? lol. If the fan hub or cooler require BIOS support, that needs to be considered, but otherwise it's a wash for me. I'm about out of time here for this post, but I'll do more homework and get back to you later if you guys can't come to a consensus.

SYS RAM: I need to go back and check these again as I've run out of time right now in my day. Again, I know Skill and Corsair as good brands but don't know the others. Quality. Reliable. Long lasting. Again, happy to throw a few extra bucks at it to make the decision easier. Can you three agree on one? If not, let me get back to you on this one. I need to do more homework.

EXTRAS:

I'll be installing Windows 11 Home edition. I've always done this with an interal DVD read/writer. Do people still install these on new builds? It's the only way I've ever installed Windows but I guess I could use a USB drive. Also, if there's not problem with the BIOS recognizing it for booting and troubleshooting, could I just go with an external USB DVD player? Internal DVD would be prefered, but I didn't see any room in the cases. I'd be fine with an exteral drive otherwise. (This also dosen't come out of budget allowance).

Okay, that's it for now. Hope my tone was right for this post. All this advice is me asking humbling for your help, not barking out orders. You've already been very helpful even if you never post again.

I'll check back!

 

[Lucky_SLS]

I just ordered my Palit Jetstream OC 4070ti super today for £769. Will be receiving it tomorrow.

I always liked MSI Gaming X and Suprim cards. Asus Tuf , Gigabyte Gaming OC, Aorus are also decent cards. I would not pay the premium for the ROG and maybe even the Suprim cards.

If you are buying the seasonic Prime series which have 12 year warranty, then yes - seasonic all the way. The focus GX, be quiet are in the same league. I would chose which ever is cheaper at the time you buy.

The 216 is a great case! the G500A was a bit cheaper and the Arctic 140mm fans are again one of the quietest fans around with good amount of airflow. The quality again is top notch with FDB type bearing and 6 years warranty. for 10 USD more you get an extra fan which you can mount at the top. You cannot pick a wrong case with the 216 and the G500A.

Regarding SSD, if both the 850X and the T500 are the same price, i would suggest the T500. Its the current best pcie 4.0 SSD.

For a cheap 1tb SSD: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/fV...m2-2280-solid-state-drive-sb-rocket-nvme4-1tb

Regarding rams, Ryzen needs 6000+mhz and as low as possible first word latency in CL rating. Even better if the ram is SK hynix 'A' die which the team expert ram is.

a bootable USB should have no problems. All the best with your new build!

 

[helper800]

Okay, I've read and re-read all your posts and read/watched reviews. Great help!

I've used this forum for help building PCs going back 20 years now, often for friends of family. My current PC is almost 10 years old and running strong but I did replace my Samsung SSD (840 EVO 250GB) and one of the fans died on my Sapphire R9 290 Tri-x OC. I think that's pretty good for something I use every day and often have on for hours not to mention some heavy gaming at times. As a result, I have some bias towards some of the brands I've used although I don't know if these names have lost any credibilty in the last few years.

I have also used this forum for a very long time, although not quite as long as you. I still love it here on Tom's the most. Having brand biases is nothing to be ashamed of, however, I do have a few words of caution when it comes to having such biases though. If a brand treats you well with performance and reliability, by all means, stick with them, but try not to assume ALL of that particular brand's products are as performant and reliable just because one of them is. This is extremely important for things like PSUs. A lot of companies use OEMs to slap their branding on low quality products manufactured by others for the low hanging fruit profit that can be made doing so. This is extremely prevalent with PSUs. Since PSUs are the most important part of your PC with regards to their ability to cause damage to other components and their contributions to the stability of function, picking one that is well manufactured and designed with quality components is crucial.

That said, to the extent that the disagreements are abouts aving money, I'd rather just spend the extra bucks and have the peace of mind. I spend much of my life poor, but I'm in my 50s now and if money can spar me having to agonize of what part to get, that's an easy choice. So... for the sake of making choices easier let's say the budget can flex another $150 IF NEEDED.

Suffice to say, I know where you are coming from. Regarding the cost savings with my build, no quality was lost as a sacrifice. Every part I picked was a particularly reliable part from the corresponding brand they came from. I'll go into more detail below about what I mean with the specific parts comparisons.

CPU: Easy everyone agrees. AMD Ryzen 7 7899x3DE. Done.

Agreed, this was a very easy choice.

GPU: I think we all agree on the RTX 4070 Ti SUPER 16 GB. There are some AMDs with more vram, but I think it best meets my needs for gaming and the extra 4 GB vram from the 4070ti will come in handy if I get into Stable Diffusion which. From my research, the Nvidia seems to be better for SD overall. Sorry for the tortuous worm all I took you down trying to make a decision about that.

Yes, all of us here have at one point or directly recommended the 4070 Ti Super. I believe, without putting words in other's mouths, that is the card for you because of your types of use cases.

Anyway, they aren't out yet. I'm in hurry. Maybe you guys could help me pick a model when they launch. I'm not neccsarily afraid of FACTORY OCs as I've found them reliable in the past, but I don't think I'll need it with this build. In fact, this build is overkill for my needs, but that's good as I want to still be able to handle new game titles a few years down the line.

In line with what Lucky_SLS just posted above, usually picking the cheaper card from a brand is the correct decision because the amount that you get for paying above and beyond the base cards is very small in terms of performance or otherwise.

PSU: Those seasonics are expenisve, but I have used them in several builds and they are so reliable and relatively quiet. I didn't review the "be quiet" or check the stats, but in my experience on a gaming rig with all those fans running, a slightly quieter PSU won't make much difference. Lucky and whyme were trying to save me money, but can we all agree the Seasonic is better or at least no worse choice if you ignore the extra cost?

I will parrot what Lucky_SLS said above, Seasonic makes the best PSUs in the industry, particularly their PRIME units. Personally, I believe that even their FOCUS PSU's are at least par with Be Quiet's better units and even Corsairs RMx PSUs. I would be reluctant to tell you though that spending another 20 dollars just to get a comparable Seasonic PSU may not be where you want to spend another 20+ dollars. I am biased for Seasonics, just to be transparent.

Case/Fans: Now that Lucky worked through my newbie questions, I have to say it's not that important to me what it looks like so long as the ports are on the top. I will be putting this case in a desk. The back of the desk is open. The front has a hinged cupboard door on it. I have a vent on the door to allow air in and I could install a vent on the desk on the wall next to the case if needed.

I've watched (skimmed) reviews on the cases you mentioned. I'm leaning towards the Lian Li LANCOOL 216, but the Phanteks ECLIPSE G500A would probably be fine. I've never used a fan hub like the one in Lian. So long as we are certain it's easily managed by the mobo, it's fine. Both cases are rated high for cooling so I'd probably lean to whatever case has less noise. If it's a wash, I guess I'll go with the majority and go with Lian if I can get Lucky to agree!

That said, I don't mind paying more for third party fans. I've done this in the past to keep the noise down. Again, the idea would be not just quiet buy reliable fans. Hate to see a component burn out becuase I didn't know a fan died. All my knowledge and care goes into building the PC. I don't wanna think or worry about it once it's in place. So, is there a fanless version of the Lian where I can install my own third party (reliable) fans on the assumption they would be quieter? Or are the onboard fans truly good enough?

Should I change the size of the fans or add more? I'm very willing to do this even if it bloats the budget. Reliablity and noise are key.

I bundled the above segments because they are all focused on one thing, cooling with regards to fans and the case selection. As I have stated above, the Lian Li 216 comes with great fans, especially the two from intake 160mm fans. You won't be able to find better 160s on the market. The back exhaust fan that it comes with is also excellent, but not the absolute best for sure. To get a better exhaust fan would mean spending probably 20-40 dollars on a noctua fan for only a small improvement. I would say that Lian Li fan is about equivalent in performance and reliability to the previously mentioned Arctic fans.

The Phanteks case is also a really good case for the money, but the one that was linked comes with 0 fans preinstalled so it would be an extra purchase for a five pack of arctic fans, and installation of those fans for little to no improvement over the Lian Li case. It would also be more expensive than the Lian Li case because of those fan additions that need to be purchased. The fan hub that comes with the Lian Li case is also pretty straightforward to use, I would not be worried about it. To my knowledge there would be little to no benefit to getting anything more than just that particular Lian Li 216 case and the fans that it comes with. By all means if anyone else has anything to add or refute what I am saying, I am open to it.

Cooler.

I've never used liquid cooling or radiators. I'm guessing liquid coolers are a requirement for modern hotter CPUs. Perhaps more than any other component, I know nothing about these coolers so again all I can say is reliablity and NOISE are my biggest concerns. Can I get you guys to agree on one? Again, throw a little xtra case at it if that makes it easier.

Something else I've never used is a radiator. Do I need one? Are they expensive Would using a radiator mean I use fewer fans thus making the build quieter?

So just to be clear here, there are two common types of liquid cooling. There are AIO (all in one) liquid coolers, and there are custom liquid cooling loops. AIOs come with a set of fans usually pre installed onto a radiator that is connected via tubes to the CPU block with an integrated pump. AIO's are all one connected unit that usually cannot be disassembled and reassembled, hence the name AIO. Custom liquid cooling loops are all of the individual components of an AIO that you have to assemble into a loop and then fill a reservoir with water for it to properly function. Custom liquid cooling loops are the only things that would need an individual radiator. I do not recommend getting a liquid cooling loop as this is very expensive, time consuming, and unreliable to use. I also do not recommend getting an AIO cooler in your case because the 7800X3D does not really require it. The tried and true air coolers, like the Thermalright Phantom Spirit I recommended, are the most reliable solutions. AIO's pumps eventually fail, and they have a slim possibility of leaking.

Storage: Well, I think you guys were leaning towards that T500. Can you weigh in on that Whyme? I've found some HP products to be unreilabe at times and my brand respect leans towards WD. Gigabyte I associate more with Mobos, but I know they are an old school solid brand name. I forgot to look at the states for these, but are they all the same speed? I'm assuming you guys know your stuff and have made sure I'm not bottlenecked by mobo bus speeds or anything like that. Or maybe the doesn't matter now that these drives aren't even cabled anymore.

Maybe I lean WD? Talk me out or into it?

Also, while 2TB is plenty, I might want a smallish back up SSD. Can you recommend a bang-for buck SSD I can cable in? Mabye a Samsung? (Don't consider this in the budget allowance).

WD is a great company, but as with all companies, none of them are perfect. I personally like WD drives as well. For NVMe drives right now the Crucial T500 is at a really good price. Crucial drives have, as far as I am aware, been reliable. The T500 also just to happens to be a fast drive with a DRAM cache for a decent price right now. If you want a small backup drive the Crucial P3 Plus drives are usually extremely price competitive and reasonably fast, though they are DRAMless drives. DRAM cache drives are usually a lot more expensive so they may not meet your criteria for being a bang-for your buck drive.

Mainboard: I've used and trust Gigabyte, but i know MSI is a solid brand. Again, I haven't overclocked since the early Pentium days (told you I was old) so there's no point in paying extra for OC features. Sometimes I give away my old PCs, but even then I don't OC becuase who wants a friend/relative to come back asking for help with their failing used PC I gave them for free?? lol. If the fan hub or cooler require BIOS support, that needs to be considered, but otherwise it's a wash for me. I'm about out of time here for this post, but I'll do more homework and get back to you later if you guys can't come to a consensus.

So the way new CPUs work is they basically OC themselves with stock settings to run as fast as possible given their current temperature and the VRM capabilities of the motherboard you get. For this reason, getting a good cooler, and a motherboard with all the features and good VRMs is very important. As I have said above, the fan hub is much more painless than you think and likely does not require any BIOS setup to use it, though I am not positive.

SYS RAM: I need to go back and check these again as I've run out of time right now in my day. Again, I know Skill and Corsair as good brands but don't know the others. Quality. Reliable. Long lasting. Again, happy to throw a few extra bucks at it to make the decision easier. Can you three agree on one? If not, let me get back to you on this one. I need to do more homework.

As Lucky_SLS said, AMD CPUs are particular sensitive to what RAM you get. To give some context by what I mean by saying they are 'sensitive,' I mean that their CPUs perform significantly better with faster, and lower latency RAM. The sweet spot for AMD's CPUs seem to be 6000MT's with CL30 timings. G Skill RAM is top of the heap. RAM either works for their advertised speeds and timings, or they don't. G. Skill offers a lifetime warranty on their RAM to work at their advertised speeds.

EXTRAS:

I'll be installing Windows 11 Home edition. I've always done this with an interal DVD read/writer. Do people still install these on new builds? It's the only way I've ever installed Windows but I guess I could use a USB drive. Also, if there's not problem with the BIOS recognizing it for booting and troubleshooting, could I just go with an external USB DVD player? Internal DVD would be prefered, but I didn't see any room in the cases. I'd be fine with an exteral drive otherwise. (This also dosen't come out of budget allowance).

Okay, that's it for now. Hope my tone was right for this post. All this advice is me asking humbling for your help, not barking out orders. You've already been very helpful even if you never post again.

I'll check back!

You can use an external DVD drive with no issues for any tasks you need. Windows does not even come with discs anymore. The only ways to properly install Windows 11 is with a USB device. Microsoft has a utility program called the Media Creation Tool that you can use to put Windows 11 onto the USB device. It is straightforward and easy to use.

 

[Muckster]

Okay, this should be it or very close to it...

PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/tYTwHG

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor ($389.00 @ Amazon)

CPU Cooler: Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($35.90 @ Amazon)

Motherboard: Gigabyte B650 AORUS ELITE AX ATX AM5 Motherboard ($199.99 @ Amazon)

Memory: G.Skill Flare X5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($104.99 @ Amazon)

Storage: Crucial T500 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($139.99 @ B&H)

Video Card: Asus TUF GAMING GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER 16 GB Video Card ($799.99)

((not sure which model as these are just now being released...)

Case: Lian Li LANCOOL 216 ATX Mid Tower Case ($96.99 @ Adorama)

Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS GX-850 ATX 3.0 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($179.00 @ B&H)

Total: $1945.85

Please take a quick look and see if I got anything wrong. I'll be using this list to order from.

For the case I decided to go with the stock fans. Lucky mentioned I could get a top one for an extra $10, but I think I'll just wait. I can always get one later. As for the secondary SSD drive, again, I think I'll wait and see if I need it.

Questions

When I said I might want a secondary SSD, I thought it would be cabled in. The "card style" is even better. So the mobo has room for the main SSD and a slot for a second?

Parts picker didn't alert to any hardware conflicts. Is there anything else I should do to make sure everything fits?

In the old days I used pick up some Arctic Silver. Is that necessary or should I just go with the thermal paste that comes with the Thermalright Phantom Spirit?

Can anyone think of any accessories I might need? Cables, etc?

As for the RTX 4070ti Super... They are just coming out. Is this a situation where I should get one quick before it goes out of stock or rather I should wait a bit and see if the "just new" price comes down?

If nothing else, should I wait a week just to see what's being offered even in non-oc stock versions, or with the stock versions all be about the same?

Likewise, I've got the money but I'm not in a huge rush to buy. Is there any reason I should put off purchase for a week or a few weeks?

 

[Lucky_SLS]

the most comprehensive AIB card comparison/review i could find:

https://www.techpowerup.com/review/palit-geforce-rtx-4070-ti-super-jetstream-oc/39.html

I still feel that 180 USD for a mid tier seasonic is not worth it. If it was the prime series for 180, thats justified. The competiton is better.

Like this FSP Hydro PTM X Pro:

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/H4...d-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-hpt3-850m-g5

its not the quietest unit, but the performance for the price is unbeatable.

If you really want a SATA SSD:

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/h3tQzy/crucial-mx500-1tb-25-solid-state-drive-ct1000mx500ssd1

As for the extras: Maybe a right angle connector.

https://www.thermal-grizzly.com/en/wire-view-gpu/s-tg-wv-h1r

 

[Muckster]

the most comprehensive AIB card comparison/review i could find:

https://www.techpowerup.com/review/palit-geforce-rtx-4070-ti-super-jetstream-oc/39.html

I still feel that 180 USD for a mid tier seasonic is not worth it. If it was the prime series for 180, thats justified. The competiton is better.

Like this FSP Hydro PTM X Pro:

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/H4...d-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-hpt3-850m-g5

its not the quietest unit, but the performance for the price is unbeatable.

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing, given the price. I remember you saying it would be worth it if it was a 12 year warranty PSU, but it's the 10 year. I'll check out one you put up and take a harder look at the bequiet. The problem is my main concern is long term reliability and that's such a hard thing to judge. I end up trying to BUY peace of mind.

If you really want a SATA SSD:

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/h3tQzy/crucial-mx500-1tb-25-solid-state-drive-ct1000mx500ssd1

Naw, I don't see any reason to favor the SATAs. I believe it's called "M.2 SSD," right? I didn't realize the mobo accepted more than one of those. The last ATX build I did was over 5 years ago and that only had one slot.

My only feeling about having a second SSD is it might be nice to have in a pinch should the main SSD fail. I usually keep a partition just for backup "images" of the OS drive. Maybe just having a flash drive on hand will do the trick these days. Also, if I did get one, 1TB is such overkill. Maybe something like 250GB would be fine and still more than I need.

So did you get your 4070 ti OC super? I ran that price thorugh a £ to $ calculator. That's $976 USD! Just the exhange rate or is that OC that much more expensive? How much of that is the OC verses the exchange rate? Are you swapping it in or is it part of a new build?

As for the extras: Maybe a right angle connector.


https://www.thermal-grizzly.com/en/wire-view-gpu/s-tg-wv-h1r

I checked the link, but what's that mostly for? Just monitoring in case there's a problem? Does it help with monitoring overclocking?

 

[helper800]

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing, given the price. I remember you saying it would be worth it if it was a 12 year warranty PSU, but it's the 10 year. I'll check out one you put up and take a harder look at the bequiet. The problem is my main concern is long term reliability and that's such a hard thing to judge. I end up trying to BUY peace of mind.

The recommended PSU from Lucky_SLS is a great alternative for a PSU with quality components, and as was said, it's not the quietest PSU, but it is at around the same quality as the Seasonic unit I linked for much cheaper.

My only feeling about having a second SSD is it might be nice to have in a pinch should the main SSD fail. I usually keep a partition just for backup "images" of the OS drive. Maybe just having a flash drive on hand will do the trick these days. Also, if I did get one, 1TB is such overkill. Maybe something like 250GB would be fine and still more than I need.

I would personally just get a fast USB drive at 256gb and use that as a backup if you do not want to get a secondary internal drive. USB drives are convenient and can be a bit safer in the case of the PC being damaged via a brownout or power surge. Since you won't always have the USB installed it would be an external backup that cannot be destroyed in such circumstances, unless installed at the time of the incident.

So did you get your 4070 ti OC super? I ran that price thorugh a £ to $ calculator. That's $976 USD! Just the exhange rate or is that OC that much more expensive? How much of that is the OC verses the exchange rate Are you swapping it in or is it part of a new build?


I checked the link, but what's that mostly for? Just monitoring in case there's a problem? Does it help with monitoring overclocking?

I believe that in Europe they have to pay a moderate amount as VAT (value added tax) at around 15%. This VAT may be what is causing most of the price discrepancy. He could have also gotten a more premium model of card that costs more than the MSRP of the stock 4070 Ti Super's.

The right angle plug that Lucky_SLS linked is just to make cable managment easier with the new 12pin power connectors that these cards are using and reduce the very slim risk of the connector burning out with improper installation. The burn out of the connector has only been shown on higher power cards though, so that may be a moot point with this card. That connector also displays power usage in watts of the connector as requested by the card.

 

[Lucky_SLS]

£769 is the official price for the 4070ti super here in the UK. And my card was one of the few to have a decent cooler and lower temps as seen from the link i posted above. I will be getting the card tomorrow as i missed the delivery today while i was in the office.

I remember you talking about wired SSD and i thought you meant SATA drives. a flash drive as mentioned my @helper800 is a good choice. Or just a 1tb external SSD. you can always reinstall softwares and OS.

https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Power-Portable-External-Adapter/dp/B0CR3XX6K1/ref=sr_1_27?crid=2A4P4WZNPF88C&keywords=1tb+external+ssd&qid=1706211558&sprefix=1tb+ex,aps,159&sr=8-27&th=1

The main reason for the right angle adaptor is seasonic has advised that the 16 pin connector should be bent at least 35mm away from the pin. And cable mod recalled its right angle connectors.

https://www.tomshardware.com/pc-components/power-supplies/seasonic-officially-recommends-using-a-hair-dryer-to-bend-your-rtx-4090-power-cables-before-installing#:~:text=SeaSonic officially recommends using a,cables before installing | Tom's Hardware

Thermalgrizzly is a reputed brand and using the right angle adaptor wont bend your cable and reduce the risk of any mishaps.

 

[Muckster]

The recommended PSU from Lucky_SLS is a great alternative for a PSU with quality components, and as was said, it's not the quietest PSU, but it is at around the same quality as the Seasonic unit I linked for much cheaper.

I for one am tired of hearing myself go back and forth on the PSU. Can't imagine how sick of hearing about it you two must be. lol

So the seasonic you linked is $179, the "FPS" PSU is $116.

Sheesh, that's a 40% mark up for the peace of mind to go from the "FPS" PSU to the Seasonic..... but... I'm sick of thinking about it. I'll probably just go with the Seasonic, but I still think Lucky's right that it's too expensive. lol

I would personally just get a fast USB drive at 256gb and use that as a backup if you do not want to get a secondary internal drive. USB drives are convenient and can be a bit safer in the case of the PC being damaged via a brownout or power surge. Since you won't always have the USB installed it would be an external backup that cannot be destroyed in such circumstances, unless installed at the time of the incident.

Yeah, I'm just gonna get a flash drive. Good call.

Lucky, yes, I did mean the SATA at first, but that's only because I thought that was the only option.

I believe that in Europe they have to pay a moderate amount as VAT (value added tax) at around 15%. This VAT may be what is causing most of the price discrepancy. He could have also gotten a more premium model of card that costs more than the MSRP of the stock 4070 Ti Super's.

Yeah, I think Lucky's was OCed. I'm gonna resist wading into VAT taxes and politics here, but I find it very hard to understand why the US doesn't follow suit with the rest of the modern world in terms of heath care.... Also, I think, overall, the UK got hit a little harder within inflation that we did these past couple years.

The right angle plug that Lucky_SLS linked is just to make cable managment easier with the new 12pin power connectors that these cards are using and reduce the very slim risk of the connector burning out with improper installation. The burn out of the connector has only been shown on higher power cards though, so that may be a moot point with this card. That connector also displays power usage in watts of the connector as requested by the card.

So Helper/Lucky, have you guys done a cable job recently? Is it really that bad? I usually spend a lot of time getting everything tucked away nicely. I could use hair dryer to bend a few cables to the right size if needed. Sounds like a hassle, but it's within my skill set. If not, it's too bad there isn't a simpler low tech "bracket" that would just turn the cables without all the power monitoring.

What would or what have you guys done in this tight cable situation? Did you work through it alright?

As for the 4070 ti supers... right now there are four over at PCPP that are selling for $799. And $799 is really where I should be in terms of bang for buck, right?

Gigabyte WINDFORCE OC GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER 16 GB Video Card
Asus TUF GAMING GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER 16 GB Video Card
Zotac GAMING Trinity GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER 16 GB Video Card
MSI VENTUS 2X OC GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER 16 GB Video Card

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/dvQ7n6

woops, I think that Gigabtyle just went to $899 after one retailer sold out.

Anyway, two of these appear to be factory OverClocks, juding by "OC". I'm not neccessarily afraid of factory OCs, but how do I interpret this? They will burn out faster? If the price is the same, is OC a positive?

I checked Lucky's Tech Power up chart, but I'm not sure these are the same cards given slight variations in the names. Even so, is there a key statistic I'm looking for here? The Zotac and MSI seem closer, statistically, to Lucky's Palit. I think the ASUS RTX 4070 Ti Super TUF goes for $799. It's the quietest one listed but also one of the hottest. Might I just throw a dart at one of them? Not sure how to judge such small differences in temp or sound.

https://www.techpowerup.com/review/palit-geforce-rtx-4070-ti-super-jetstream-oc/39.html

Am I missing other cards or can I count on PcParkPicker to pretty much list what's out there?

Oh, and don't worry about fancy thermal paste? And I'm guessing there's no wait to predict if it's worth waiting for the prices to shift?

I can see the finish line. Thanks for hanging in there with me this far...

 

[helper800]

I for one am tired of hearing myself go back and forth on the PSU. Can't imagine how sick of hearing about it you two must be. lol

So the seasonic you linked is $179, the "FPS" PSU is $116.

Sheesh, that's a 40% mark up for the peace of mind to go from the "FPS" PSU to the Seasonic..... but... I'm sick of thinking about it. I'll probably just go with the Seasonic, but I still think Lucky's right that it's too expensive. lol




Yeah, I'm just gonna get a flash drive. Good call.

Lucky, yes, I did mean the SATA at first, but that's only because I thought that was the only option.



Yeah, I think Lucky's was OCed. I'm gonna resist wading into VAT taxes and politics here, but I find it very hard to understand why the US doesn't follow suit with the rest of the modern world in terms of heath care.... Also, I think, overall, the UK got hit a little harder within inflation that we did these past couple years.



So Helper/Lucky, have you guys done a cable job recently? Is it really that bad? I usually spend a lot of time getting everything tucked away nicely. I could use hair dryer to bend a few cables to the right size if needed. Sounds like a hassle, but it's within my skill set. If not, it's too bad there isn't a simpler low tech "bracket" that would just turn the cables without all the power monitoring.

What would or what have you guys done in this tight cable situation? Did you work through it alright?

As for the 4070 ti supers... right now there are four over at PCPP that are selling for $799. And $799 is really where I should be in terms of bang for buck, right?

Gigabyte WINDFORCE OC GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER 16 GB Video Card
Asus TUF GAMING GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER 16 GB Video Card
Zotac GAMING Trinity GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER 16 GB Video Card
MSI VENTUS 2X OC GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER 16 GB Video Card

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/dvQ7n6

woops, I think that Gigabtyle just went to $899 after one retailer sold out.

Anyway, two of these appear to be factory OverClocks, juding by "OC". I'm not neccessarily afraid of factory OCs, but how do I interpret this? They will burn out faster? If the price is the same, is OC a positive?

I checked Lucky's Tech Power up chart, but I'm not sure these are the same cards given slight variations in the names. Even so, is there a key statistic I'm looking for here? The Zotac and MSI seem closer, statistically, to Lucky's Palit. I think the ASUS RTX 4070 Ti Super TUF goes for $799. It's the quietest one listed but also one of the hottest. Might I just throw a dart at one of them? Not sure how to judge such small differences in temp or sound.

https://www.techpowerup.com/review/palit-geforce-rtx-4070-ti-super-jetstream-oc/39.html

Am I missing other cards or can I count on PcParkPicker to pretty much list what's out there?

Oh, and don't worry about fancy thermal paste? And I'm guessing there's no wait to predict if it's worth waiting for the prices to shift?

I can see the finish line. Thanks for hanging in there with me this far...

I would just grab that ASUS tuf card and be done with it. Do not use a hair drier on the 12+4 pin cable for the graphics card. I would not worry too much about the cable management. Just try and make sure you do not over bend the 12+4 that goes into the graphics card and make sure that it is FULLY seated into the port.

 

[Lucky_SLS]

The 216 is a big case, you should have some clearance to bend the cable. But if the stock cable from seasonic psu is stiff, get that right angle connector.

The stock thermal paste is good enough. No need for an after market one.

My card is factory oc version but it's the cheapest decent card as per the reviews. 769 pounds is the official starting price here. The Asus tuf seems like a good choice, go for it. You should be looking at gpu, Hotspot temps from the link I posted above.

 

[Muckster]

Just about to pull the trigger, but a couple problems..... Regarding the PSU, maybe some listings are wrong or I'm looking at wrong model...

Seasonic Focus SSR-850FM, 850W 80+ Gold - $119​

https://www.amazon.com/Seasonic-SSR-850FM-Semi-Modular-Warranty-Application/dp/B08YJBYPCF/ref=sr_1_2?crid=E4N9RXM6V8L5&keywords=Seasonic-SSR-850FM&qid=1706282305&sprefix=seasonic-ssr-850fm,aps,100&sr=8-2

OR

Seasonic Focus Plus 1000 Gold SSR-1000FX 1000W 80+ Gold - $144.99​

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C5B888CM?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1

This is what PcPartsPicker linked from Helpers List, but its out of stock. Also title claims 1000 GOLD SSR, but it looks like this is really the 850..?

OR

...is B&H the only correct one that Helper recommended? Perhaps it's the "Plus"? If this is different from the above two, it's strange I can't even find it listed on Amazon.

SeaSonic Electronics 850W FOCUS GX ATX 3.0 80 PLUS Gold Desktop Power Supply - $179​

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...s_atx3_focus_gx_850_focus_v3_gx_850_850w.html

Never ordered from B&H. Generally a reputable website?

ALSO....

ASUS 4070 ti Super is sold out on all retailers....

MSI and Zotac are in stock and the Gigabyte is back in stock over at Newegg... each for $799.99

And then I found this one searching on Amazon, but not listed at PCPartsPicker. Is it a legitmate 4070 ti Super or something to avoid? Unlike almost every other component it doesn't offer free returns and it says over 100 sold but that's probably because sometimes Amazon overlaps similar products for sale history. I don't mind spending the $799 on something else if this one is suspicious....

ZOTAC Gaming GeForce RTX 4070 Ti Super Trinity Black Edition DLSS 3 16GB - $770.44​

https://www.amazon.com/ZOTAC-Graphics-IceStorm-Advanced-ZT-D40730D-10P/dp/B0CSBCBFLS/ref=sr_1_5?crid=KMFROO6MRFTW&keywords=4070+ti+super&qid=1706282998&sprefix=4070+ti+super,aps,101&sr=8-5&ufe=app_do:amzn1.fos.ac2169a1-b668-44b9-8bd0-5ec63b24bcb5

I don't mind waiting for the Asus if you guys say it's worth waiting for. At Amazon, I can wait until Feb 12th - March 3rd for it, but then I should probably wait to order other parts or I might not have it all together and still have time to return any possible problem parts. If Asus doesn't matter so much then the other three listed at PcPartsPicker are now available, including the Gigabyte which as of today is now back in stock....

Please advise...

PcParts Pickers List of $799 4070 ti Supers:
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/dvQ7n6

Last thing.. here's the build pending any PSU or GPU changes, but when I look at PcPartsPicker is warns there may be hardware conflicts, memory fitting, etc. Is this something of concern. Double check I didn't get any parts wrong.. lol


PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/tYTwHG

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor ($389.00 @ Amazon)

CPU Cooler: Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($35.90 @ Amazon)

Motherboard: Gigabyte B650 AORUS ELITE AX ATX AM5 Motherboard ($199.99 @ Amazon)

Memory: G.Skill Flare X5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($104.99 @ Amazon)

Storage: Crucial T500 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($139.75 @ Amazon)

Video Card: Asus TUF GAMING GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER 16 GB Video Card ($799.99)

Case: Lian Li LANCOOL 216 ATX Mid Tower Case ($96.99 @ Adorama)

Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS GX-850 ATX 3.0 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($179.00 @ B&H)
Total: $1945.61

Thanks for hanging in there with me....

 

[Lucky_SLS]

You need an ATX 3.0 PSU. Only the Focus GX is ATX 3.0 and you can see the price for yourself.

If you dont mind paying a bit more, i would suggest the Gaming OC.

Dual Bios and power plug indicator.

https://www.newegg.com/gigabyte-gef...&ranSiteID=8BacdVP0GFs-x3zwJZe2skhZ__CtgV3VSQ

 

[helper800]

Agreed with Lucky_SLS above. Seasonic has made many versions of their PSU over the years. The first one you linked was released in 2017 so its a bit of an older design at this point and probably why its much cheaper. The second one is an FX labeled PSU from Seasonic and it does not have the cable you require for your graphics card and also comes with a different assortment of cables than the normal GX model. There are two different GX models as well, one with the ATX 3.0 12+4 pin cable you need and one without it. I linked you the one that has the cable you need. The new cable makes that unit more desirable and more expensive to produce, thus the increased cost. The aforementioned Gigabyte graphics card is also very capable just a bit more expensive then some of the others. In fact, i believe the Gigabyte card is even a bit better than that particular ASUS tuf card, but that is also reflected in the price of 850 dollars.

 

[Muckster]

Okay, I will get the....

GIGABYTE GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER GAMING OC 16G Graphics Card, 3x WINDFORCE Fans, 16GB 256-bit GDDR6X, GV-N407TSGAMING OC-16GD Video Card - $849​

https://www.newegg.com/gigabyte-gef...&ranSiteID=kXQk6.ivFEQ-LvgcfWlTJityZVIruy4ilQ

and I will buy this PSU... (that helper linked in his build from B&H) $179

SeaSonic Electronics 850W FOCUS GX ATX 3.0 80 PLUS Gold Desktop Power Supply -$179​

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...s_atx3_focus_gx_850_focus_v3_gx_850_850w.html

Helper, B&H a reputable website as far as you know? Weird no one else has it. Never ordered from them before.

IS THIS RIGHT?

 

[helper800]

Okay, I will get the....

GIGABYTE GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER GAMING OC 16G Graphics Card, 3x WINDFORCE Fans, 16GB 256-bit GDDR6X, GV-N407TSGAMING OC-16GD Video Card - $849​

https://www.newegg.com/gigabyte-geforce-rtx-4070-ti-super-gv-n407tsgaming-oc-16gd/p/N82E16814932676?Item=N82E16814932676&nm_mc=AFC-RAN-COM&cm_mmc=afc-ran-com-_-PCPartPicker&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_campaign=afc-ran-com-_-PCPartPicker&utm_source=afc-PCPartPicker&AFFID=2558510&AFFNAME=PCPartPicker&ACRID=1&ranMID=44583&ranEAID=2558510&ranSiteID=8BacdVP0GFs-x3zwJZe2skhZ__CtgV3VSQ&nm_mc=AFC-RAN-COM&cm_mmc=afc-ran-com-_-Future+Publishing+Ltd&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_campaign=afc-ran-com-_-Future+Publishing+Ltd&utm_source=afc-Future+Publishing+Ltd&AFFID=2294204&AFFNAME=Future+Publishing+Ltd&ACRID=1&ASUBID=tomshardware-us-6338020691752956000&ASID=https://forums.tomshardware.com/&ranMID=44583&ranEAID=2294204&ranSiteID=kXQk6.ivFEQ-LvgcfWlTJityZVIruy4ilQ

and I will buy this PSU... (that helper linked in his build from B&H) $179

SeaSonic Electronics 850W FOCUS GX ATX 3.0 80 PLUS Gold Desktop Power Supply -$179​

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...s_atx3_focus_gx_850_focus_v3_gx_850_850w.html

Helper, B&H a reputable website as far as you know? Weird no one else has it. Never ordered from them before.

IS THIS RIGHT?

B&H photo is a smaller store in the north east of the US, and it has been very reputable for me in the past. They have good customer service as well. I would have no qualms ordering from them.

 

[Muckster]

SWEET. Got it ordered. Thanks guys.

Here's a super noob question...

So, for a new build, I usually just buy the latest (11) Windows OEM on DVD.

Home edition is still the way to go, right?

Where do download the code? Amazon seems to only have the DVD in home edition.

I know how to use Windows Media Creation Tool to put an image on a USB drive. I know I can install without the key, but where do I buy the key?

 

[helper800]

SWEET. Got it ordered. Thanks guys.

Here's a super noob question...

So, for a new build, I usually just buy the latest (11) Windows OEM on DVD.

Home edition is still the way to go, right?

Where do download the code? Amazon seems to only have the DVD in home edition.

I know how to use Windows Media Creation Tool to put an image on a USB drive. I know I can install without the key, but where do I buy the key?

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/7ZpzK8/microsoft-windows-11-home-retail-download-64-bit-kw9-00664
No reason to get more than home edition.