Lucky,
No, I don't even have it built yet, but I'd prefer to install the divers individually and avoid installing any extra software, if possible. Still, I think you're right about it doing it for you.
Lucky_SLS
Glorious
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It does not install any partner software or bloatware like McAfee AV. it just installs the required drivers for Audio, LAN, wifi, chipset and any possible mobo bios.
Although Mcafee is not required, i would highly suggest you to have windows defender and Mcafee webadvisor browser extension. Thats all the protection you need.
And instead of chrome, dont opt to share data with microsoft and use edge or better yet, firefox. chrome is a resource hungry hog.
Although Mcafee is not required, i would highly suggest you to have windows defender and Mcafee webadvisor browser extension. Thats all the protection you need.
And instead of chrome, dont opt to share data with microsoft and use edge or better yet, firefox. chrome is a resource hungry hog.
helper800
Judicious
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Gigabyte does not distribute Nvidia graphics card drivers, and even if they did I would not get them through Gigabyte. The gigabyte control software is an extraneous utility program.
No.
Nvidia is the one who originates the drivers for all the GPUs they produce. Gigabyte just places that GPU onto their PCB with minimum components set by Nvidia. If gigabyte has "drivers" for a graphics card they may be out of date, so you mind as well get them from Nvidia yourself because you know they are the most up to date possible. I think you may be misunderstanding what some description about gigabytes utility software, or the gigabyte website may be incorrect. There are no gigabyte specific drivers for your graphics card.
Geforce experience is Nvidia's useless utility software that you can choose not to include when installing your GPU drivers.
Yes, the iGPU on the CPU has drivers, but I would not install them. These drivers may conflict with Nvidia's drivers and cause issues.
So for BIOS flashing, usually you can just download the newest BIOS onto a usb drive with nothing else on it, and then install it inside BIOS. Make sure to clear CMOS after a BIOS update and then set your RAM XMP/EXPO profile back on. It does not matter when you flash the BIOS version with respect to drivers, as drivers and BIOS do not have any interaction that would require you to update one or the other first or second.
helper800
Judicious
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I disagree with a lot of this, but to each their own. I will never touch any McAfee program, even their, "webadvisor." Windows defender and your browser's built in blockers are perfectly adequate for normal browsing. Personally, I prefer chrome and use tons of tabs. The most memory usage I have ever seen was 6gb, but that was with over 50 tabs open.
Lucky_SLS
Glorious
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^ same here with the AV software, but my personal vanilla experience with edge browser experience and chome for that matter is not that great. webadvisor is just a non intrusive pop up page blocker and spam page blocker. especially on some retailer websites.
I use edge on my personal PC now and have both chrome and edge in my office laptop. and this was the experience for me. I switched to edge from chrome during the intel 8th gen and nvidia 10 series days in my personal laptop.
The last straw that made me quit chrome back then was if it was a big website, chrome would just load halfway and throw a webpage not responding message just for that tab. i had to close and restart chrome each time that happened. Dont know if that still happens, but i never looked back and checked. I am happy with edge...
I use edge on my personal PC now and have both chrome and edge in my office laptop. and this was the experience for me. I switched to edge from chrome during the intel 8th gen and nvidia 10 series days in my personal laptop.
The last straw that made me quit chrome back then was if it was a big website, chrome would just load halfway and throw a webpage not responding message just for that tab. i had to close and restart chrome each time that happened. Dont know if that still happens, but i never looked back and checked. I am happy with edge...
That makes sense. Okay, I'll just get drivers from Nvidia as you already suggested. Thanks for explaining.
Right I won't install Gefore Experience.
Okay, the bottom line is DON'T install the APU Driver provided by the Gigabyte mother board. This way the iGPU for the CPU won't be enabled and interfere and that's good because there's no situation in which I would want to use it anyway being I've got the vid card.
When you say clear the CMOS, does that mean just some kind of "return to defaults" option in the CMOS menu or are you talking about taking the battery out for a minute and then putting it back in? I believe I understand the rest of the flashing process and how to restore XMP/EXPO to get the most out of the memory.
So... a couple posts ago you said, "I would install all of the drivers except the RAID driver and maybe the motherboard control software but none of the other "utilities.""
I'm a little confused. This is what you're referring to, right?
https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/B650-AORUS-ELITE-AX-rev-12/support#support-dl-utility
This is the same software provided by Gigagabyte via their graphics card page which I also thought you said I should avoid.
https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/GV-N407TSGAMING-OC-16GD/support#support-dl-utility
So, skip it or install it? If I can skip it and and all the hardware works as intended, that's where I lean. Sorry if you addressed this and I just didn't understand.
For me, I currently use Firefox and McAfee. I just HATE McAfee, but boys will be boys and I have teenage sons and I just don't know what kind of websites they are going to after dark. That said, I haven't really had any kind of virus or malware in 20 years despite McAfee false alerting me from time to time. I do hate it though. All the needless features and the constant pop ups you really can't turn off. For me it's a matter of not really knowing the risk of malware or how to weigh it, so I just go with McAfee. I'd love to do "Windows defender and your browser's built in blockers" or at least switch to some other anti-virus someday. Just seems every time I research what to go with I get mixed information so I end up going back to the devil I know.
I don't do anything special for browsing and I like the privacy features of Firefox so that's why I use it. Ad block plus is a life saver too, espeically for youtube. Duck duck go for searching. I'm sure I'm missing out on some of the features offered by bigger better browsers.
I don't do anything special for browsing and I like the privacy features of Firefox so that's why I use it. Ad block plus is a life saver too, espeically for youtube. Duck duck go for searching. I'm sure I'm missing out on some of the features offered by bigger better browsers.
helper800
Judicious
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You seem to be confusing BIOS and CMOS. BIOS is where you go in and change all the settings for the motherboard, OC, set XMP, et cetera. CMOS is a small chip that has an attached battery that keeps the time set between shutdowns, and makes sure that BIOS settings are saved between shutdowns. To reset CMOS there are a few methods. Regardless of the method, you MUST turn off the PC and flip the switch on the PSU or pull the plug for the PC from the wall. A lot of motherboards have reset CMOS pins you can short to do this or a button on the motherboard. You can also remove the CMOS battery and hold the power button on the case for 30 seconds to discharge any capacitors.
The I was saying maybe the motherboard control software should be considered because it can monitor temps and manage motherboard driver updates more easily than doing them manually. This does not include graphics drivers. I was referring to that where you said you were confused.
As far as the graphics card software by gigabyte, you have no need for it either. If the graphics software they are referring to is also the same utility program for the motherboard, it is up to you to determine if its useful. I was saying to avoid any graphics DRIVERS from gigabyte for your GPU. In any case, I would skip the utility programs as none of them affect any base function of your PC.
Lucky_SLS
Glorious
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Defender is actually better than mcafee, program wise. Defender got inbuilt parental protection for website access control in "family options" scetion. I use Ghostery instead of adblock plus. automatic never consent for trackers.
Well, I got the hardware all together. Upon first boot I get this error:
----------------------------
Version 2.22.1283. Copyright (C) 2023 AMI
Model B650 AORUS ELITE AX Ver: FB
Press <DEL> to enter setup.
Entering setup...
Press Y to rest fTPM, if you have BitLocker or encryption enabled, the system will not boot without a recovery key
Press N to Keep Previous fTPM record and continue system boot. fTPM will NOT enable in new CPU, you can swap back to the old CPU to recover TPM related Keys and data.
------------------------------
I pressed "N" and made it the Bios. From there the plan was to change the boot order to trigger windows to install from the USB, but instead I just shut down so I could run the error by you guys.
Did I install some component wrong or is this just the message you get on a new start with an unformatted hard drive? I didn't want on push on until checking with you guys.
Edit: Not sure if this is relevant, but my "new" motherboard arrived with the box not sealed in plastic and not even a piece of tape holding the box together. Stuff inside looked fine and was still in packages.
----------------------------
Version 2.22.1283. Copyright (C) 2023 AMI
Model B650 AORUS ELITE AX Ver: FB
Press <DEL> to enter setup.
Entering setup...
Press Y to rest fTPM, if you have BitLocker or encryption enabled, the system will not boot without a recovery key
Press N to Keep Previous fTPM record and continue system boot. fTPM will NOT enable in new CPU, you can swap back to the old CPU to recover TPM related Keys and data.
------------------------------
I pressed "N" and made it the Bios. From there the plan was to change the boot order to trigger windows to install from the USB, but instead I just shut down so I could run the error by you guys.
Did I install some component wrong or is this just the message you get on a new start with an unformatted hard drive? I didn't want on push on until checking with you guys.
Edit: Not sure if this is relevant, but my "new" motherboard arrived with the box not sealed in plastic and not even a piece of tape holding the box together. Stuff inside looked fine and was still in packages.
Last edited:
Yes, I was confusing them but I am familiar with both things you are talking about.
Huh, I don't think I've ever updated a mobo driver after first installing them. Never felt a need to even check if there were updates. Well, I'll do the flash and update all the drivers before playing with the mobo software.
Cool, sorry to make you re-phrase all that. I understand now.
Just to say it back, I'll flash the bios with the USB and after that I'll clear the CMOS following your instructions. Funny I don't ever remember having to clear the CMOS after a flash before, but I trust your instruction and will follow it.
Again, thanks for your patience with me.
I'll have to look into that more when this project is done. I used the parental controls when they were young, but boys will be boys and I just assume they'll do what boys do so there's that risk invovled. Is Defender as good as McAfee in other aspects besides parental control?
I'll check Ghostery, but I think (maybe) you can auto never consent through Firefox. ?
helper800
Judicious
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If you dont clear the CMOS, sometimes fragments of prior BIOS settings can linger and cause weird issues. Clearing CMOS forces setting to their defaults by force with no lingering fragments.
helper800
Judicious
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That is odd you are getting a fTPM notification on a "new" motherboard... There may be some shenanigans going on with that motherboard like it being a return from someone else. I would try again and press "Y," or return it for a new one. Pressing Y just gets rid of encryption made for a previous windows install, but that is generalizing.
Lucky_SLS
Glorious
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I got the same error message upon first boot, but when you install all the drivers and windows, it detects it and no problems. What's confusing me is that win 11 setup wont go through if you dont have TPM, but mine went through anyway and was showing up later.
Yawn, I got up early in my time zone and read your responses. I checked Amazon. Turns out it's free returns and same day delivery. So, I just now ordered the mobo again from Amazon along with some thermal paste (cause now I'm all out). I may still convince myself the error is nothing to worry about can carry on, but at least now I have the option. Or, rather, I'll have the option sometime this evening when it arrives.
As mentioned, I did find it odd when the mobo box arrived without any plastic wrap around the box and not even a piece of tape to seal it. I think there's a good chance someone tried it out and returned it. My hunch is that Lucky's right and it's probably perfectly fine to hit "Y" and get on with it, but I do like having peace of mind and it's only a day lost. The unbulid and rebuild will be a breeze now that I've already done it once. Still, kinda wish it was any other component than the mobo. lol.
Meanwhile, can you guys tell me more about fTPM notification? What might someone have done with it to create this error? Not much else to go on except the bios version "FB" came out July 18, 2023.
I ask because I already kind of have my day set aside for this. What if I hit "Y" and install windows, install drivers, install the software I like, create my partitions, tweak my settings... all that time consuming stuff. Everything but flash the bios. Then, I uninstall everything and wait for the new board. When it comes I just rebuild. The M.2 is the only hard drive I have so when I put it in the new board shouldn't everything be the same and even boot up normally? Don't be afraid to tell me if this is a bad idea, and to my thinking, if it has any chance of causing problems with the new mobo, then it's a bad idea.
The only slight issue that comes to mind is that padding on the heatsink touching the M.2. But even if a few hours use makes it a sticky mess to remove, I can just use the heatsink from the new mobo after I clean off the M.2 with some rubbing alcohol. As I mentioned, I used up all the termal paste that came with the cooler so I bought some grizzly thermal paste. I also have a tube of Artic Silver but it's been in the garage and is many years old.
Anyway, if the new one gives me the same error, I'll just keep it. Still, it's strange no one's reporting this as "just something that happens" with these boards.
Thoughts?
....
Little feedback on the build so far...
That said, I want to say you guys did a great job with your recommendations. I'm not much for looks and lights, but the case looks great and cable management was so so easy. When I booted and went into bios, the fans were only running at 650. (I assume they are regulated to only run at partial speed until the mobo senses the heat and ramps them up.) Point is, I know 650 rpms is slow on a 1600 max fan and so it's not fair to judge noise at that level, but still that's 8 running fans total and it was virtually silent. And of course all the components fit without an issue, so good job on that too. Not a small thing to get that right and big hassle if it's wrong. Oh, and I really didn't have any problem bending the wires around. Lots of room and I didn't feel like anything was pinched. I have one gripe about Gigabyte provided anti-sag bracket attached to the vid card. The screws bottomed out too early and so the bracket was loose. I added a few washers to tighten it up, but it wasn't enough and I kept getting the same problem. I didn't want to keep trying for fear of stripping the threads. It worked out fine in the end, but when I spend $850 on a component I have an expectation of things being perfect especially when the only issue was Gigabytle not including machine screws of the right length. Oh, and the bottom of the cooler fans basically rested on top of the system ram. I just raise it up a few millimeters. Still counts as a good fit.
Bottom line is everything came together very well and I thank you very much. Great job guys!
As mentioned, I did find it odd when the mobo box arrived without any plastic wrap around the box and not even a piece of tape to seal it. I think there's a good chance someone tried it out and returned it. My hunch is that Lucky's right and it's probably perfectly fine to hit "Y" and get on with it, but I do like having peace of mind and it's only a day lost. The unbulid and rebuild will be a breeze now that I've already done it once. Still, kinda wish it was any other component than the mobo. lol.
Meanwhile, can you guys tell me more about fTPM notification? What might someone have done with it to create this error? Not much else to go on except the bios version "FB" came out July 18, 2023.
I ask because I already kind of have my day set aside for this. What if I hit "Y" and install windows, install drivers, install the software I like, create my partitions, tweak my settings... all that time consuming stuff. Everything but flash the bios. Then, I uninstall everything and wait for the new board. When it comes I just rebuild. The M.2 is the only hard drive I have so when I put it in the new board shouldn't everything be the same and even boot up normally? Don't be afraid to tell me if this is a bad idea, and to my thinking, if it has any chance of causing problems with the new mobo, then it's a bad idea.
The only slight issue that comes to mind is that padding on the heatsink touching the M.2. But even if a few hours use makes it a sticky mess to remove, I can just use the heatsink from the new mobo after I clean off the M.2 with some rubbing alcohol. As I mentioned, I used up all the termal paste that came with the cooler so I bought some grizzly thermal paste. I also have a tube of Artic Silver but it's been in the garage and is many years old.
Anyway, if the new one gives me the same error, I'll just keep it. Still, it's strange no one's reporting this as "just something that happens" with these boards.
Thoughts?
....
Little feedback on the build so far...
That said, I want to say you guys did a great job with your recommendations. I'm not much for looks and lights, but the case looks great and cable management was so so easy. When I booted and went into bios, the fans were only running at 650. (I assume they are regulated to only run at partial speed until the mobo senses the heat and ramps them up.) Point is, I know 650 rpms is slow on a 1600 max fan and so it's not fair to judge noise at that level, but still that's 8 running fans total and it was virtually silent. And of course all the components fit without an issue, so good job on that too. Not a small thing to get that right and big hassle if it's wrong. Oh, and I really didn't have any problem bending the wires around. Lots of room and I didn't feel like anything was pinched. I have one gripe about Gigabyte provided anti-sag bracket attached to the vid card. The screws bottomed out too early and so the bracket was loose. I added a few washers to tighten it up, but it wasn't enough and I kept getting the same problem. I didn't want to keep trying for fear of stripping the threads. It worked out fine in the end, but when I spend $850 on a component I have an expectation of things being perfect especially when the only issue was Gigabytle not including machine screws of the right length. Oh, and the bottom of the cooler fans basically rested on top of the system ram. I just raise it up a few millimeters. Still counts as a good fit.
Bottom line is everything came together very well and I thank you very much. Great job guys!
Lucky_SLS
Glorious
- Dec 16, 2016
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I have my front cooler fan resting on top of my ram as well. maybe 2mm clearance. That would always be the case with big dual tower air coolers.
You can definitely install windows (skip the activation and do it in your new mobo). If the board had any issues with TPM, the installer would straight away say that the PC is not compatible for win11 and you wont be able to install it. TPM is just a storage chip with encryption that stores security info like windows hello login keys in a secure place that cant be accessed if the system falls prey to ransomware or other malware.
It is strange that the mobo did not come with any wrapping and the retailer sold it not as an open box if that was the case.
I hope you have just bought the regular thermal grizzly kyronaut. Conductonaut is liquid metal and you would have to take special precaution such that the liquid metal doesnt spill on nearby components.
You can definitely install windows (skip the activation and do it in your new mobo). If the board had any issues with TPM, the installer would straight away say that the PC is not compatible for win11 and you wont be able to install it. TPM is just a storage chip with encryption that stores security info like windows hello login keys in a secure place that cant be accessed if the system falls prey to ransomware or other malware.
It is strange that the mobo did not come with any wrapping and the retailer sold it not as an open box if that was the case.
I hope you have just bought the regular thermal grizzly kyronaut. Conductonaut is liquid metal and you would have to take special precaution such that the liquid metal doesnt spill on nearby components.
Skip the activation because it's a Window's OEM and Microsoft will make a note of the hardware, right? I wouldn't have thought of that. Good call. Still, what if windows makes a note of the hardware BEFORE activation and just keeps that same note AFTER activation? I suspect M$ might be lenient on OEMs and look the other way on one or two hardware replacements, but I hate to use up that leniency at the very start. Oh, that peace of mind is so elusive.
Looks like I got the Kryonaut.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011F7W3LU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Lucky_SLS
Glorious
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You would be fine activating it later. It should not be an issue.
helper800
Judicious
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I ditto everything Lucky_SLS said above. I am glad that the build went smoothly discounting the motherboard mystery. The PC hobby has only ever gotten easier to start and even easier to build. In the BIOS there is likely a fan control section specifically for custom fan curves, I would make a profile there, if possible, for silent and high RPM. Giant double heat sink fan setups often are as close to spac tolerances as possible for RAM to get the most performance so that spacing is fairly common nowadays. If you care about the support bracket, you can figure out what the screws are and get shorter ones online, usually isn't too much of a hassle.
So that could have been caused by someone using the mobo to install windows previously before dismantling the build and returning the mobo?
helper800
Judicious
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Hypothetically it could also just have been Gigabyte's QC testing the board before it goes out, but I am very unfamiliar with QC processes at motherboard manufacturers factories.
Yuck, is Microsoft now forcing people to sign up with their email service in order to install Windows 11? In the past there were ways to avoid it. Just another email address I not only have to create and keep track of, but if I don't use it regularly it will stop working and I'll lose it. And at some point I'll be force to give them my telephone number or they'll disable it. Whatta bunch of BS. Honestly, people in my generation don't understand how this country just decided to give away all our personal information and privacy.
Is it not enough I paid $129? Is there no way around forcing me to create an email address with them?
Is it not enough I paid $129? Is there no way around forcing me to create an email address with them?
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