Build Advice New $2000 build based on Toms Guide ?

Page 6 - Seeking answers? Join the Tom's Hardware community: where nearly two million members share solutions and discuss the latest tech.
Toggle sidebar Toggle sidebar
helper800 said:
Your PC is perfectly compatible with re-bar, its just a matter of turning it on, but check for compatibility if that suits your fancy.
Click to expand...

Cool. Well, when I hit LOAD DEFAULTS after flashing and clearing the cmos, it got enabled as a default, so I guess I've been using it and it's working. Don't seem to be any other options for it other than on/off.

helper800 said:
That low latency option seems like an OCing type of option. Since you already have EXPO enable the RAM is already set to its advertised speeds and timings. If that setting were to try and push those speeds or settings you may end up with some instability, therefore, I would keep it off.
Click to expand...
Oh oh. My two gurus disagree with each other and I am just a lowly grasshopper.

I think I agree with you Lucky and will keep it off, but please let us know if you have an objection, Helper.

Another option in my BIOS is Fast boot with three options, Disabled/Enabled/Ultra Fast. Default is "Disabled" and the boot speed isn't bad, but what's the downside of enabling it or going with Ultra Fast?

To repeat, when I check TaskManger/Memory, it shows all 32BGs of memory are enabled and it shows the 6000 Mhz. Is that enough to know dual channel XMP/EXPO is running properly? I wasn't sure if Helper answered yes to this question of if he was just referring to the "low latency system" question.
 
Lucky_SLS said:
Precision boost overdrive and auto OC in Ryzen master software also has memory overclock settings.

I use the BIOS settings for PBO and dont use Ryzen master. Its upto you.
Click to expand...
Well, in the BIOS, I see PBO is disabled by default. That's basically overclocking my CPU? I might leave that alone for now or for always in the hopes of getting longer life out of my PC (and less noise from the fans if it heats things up.) I haven't messed with any "Ryzen Master Software".

So XMP/EXPO is also a form of overclocking the system RAM? I'm not so worried about that. Memory is cheaper (and easier) to replace than an CPU.

Oh, and in my BIOS, something called "Sytem Memory Multiplier" has the default setting of "Auto". Maybe thats the dual channel memory.

The only non-default setting I seem to be using in BIOS right now is turning on "EXPO 1" and turning on "XMP/EXPO High Bandwidth Support"
 
You would also have Re-bar option in BIOS.

Regarding CPU life and OC, PBO has different target settings. I have it in 80 level 5 - which means it targets the maximum overclock when the CPU is under 80C. Thats a reasonable temperature envelope.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Muckster
Muckster said:
Oh oh. My two gurus disagree with each other and I am just a lowly grasshopper.

I think I agree with you Lucky and will keep it off, but please let us know if you have an objection, Helper.

Another option in my BIOS is Fast boot with three options, Disabled/Enabled/Ultra Fast. Default is "Disabled" and the boot speed isn't bad, but what's the downside of enabling it or going with Ultra Fast?

To repeat, when I check TaskManger/Memory, it shows all 32BGs of memory are enabled and it shows the 6000 Mhz. Is that enough to know dual channel XMP/EXPO is running properly? I wasn't sure if Helper answered yes to this question of if he was just referring to the "low latency system" question.
Click to expand...
Did lucky say to turn ON the low latency setting for RAM? I dont see that anywhere. I said to leave that mode OFF, just to be clear in what I said.

I would enable fast boot, but not ultra fast.

Yes. that is enough information to know if XMP/EXPO is enabled.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Muckster and Lucky_SLS
helper800 said:
Did lucky say to turn ON the low latency setting for RAM? I dont see that anywhere. I said to leave that mode OFF, just to be clear in what I said.
Click to expand...

No, he also said turn it off. I misunderstood you in post #117 (OMG, over 100 posts... .you guys are saints!)

Low Latency System = OFF / Got it!


helper800 said:
I would enable fast boot, but not ultra fast.

Yes. that is enough information to know if XMP/EXPO is enabled.
Click to expand...
Great. A few more tweaks to get Windows the way I want and I might just have everything where i want it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: helper800
Lucky_SLS said:
You would also have Re-bar option in BIOS.
Click to expand...
Right. It's a simple on/off toggle and it's on by default. Thanks!

Lucky_SLS said:
Regarding CPU life and OC, PBO has different target settings. I have it in 80 level 5 - which means it targets the maximum overclock when the CPU is under 80C. Thats a reasonable temperature envelope.
Click to expand...

I still think I'll wait on using it to increase CPU life. You guys made me a beast of a machine. I just don't think I'll need anything extra for awhile. I did make a note of your setting though.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Lucky_SLS and helper800
helper800 said:
,,,,,
Click to expand...
Update. I wanted to run it a few days to test it out. It's running well! Thanks guys.

I have the mobo software installed too so I can check the temps. Any suggestions for free stress testing software/demos/etc to get it hot?

What is an acceptable range for CPU and GPU temps? (Keeping in mind I want this build to last a good long while...)

Fans aren't loud, but they are making an anoying soft honing sound like...


View: https://youtu.be/VmgZJ3F0jm8?t=38


Maybe they'll break in, but for futre reference, if I wanted to swap out the fans, what's a good name brand? The front two fans might be custom sizes, but I think I can fit a standard (but slightly smaller) fan.

Finally, I actually miss the power light I used to have around the button. I liked to be able to instantly see if my PC tower had power. Is there a 3rd party light I could buy just to show me when my PC is on? Something that plugs into the mobo along with the Power+_ F_Panel switches? I'm literally thinking of a standalone wire that goes from the F_Panel Mobo port out the the front panel USB/power/headphone jack, etc. Do they sell just the wire with the led light on the end of it that I plug straight into a mobo pin? If it's just a tiny led, I could maybe even just drill a small hole in the case and poke it through enough. If not, then maybe something stand-alone I can plug into a molex?

Thanks. I'll check the temps at load and that should do it for the final tweaks and that will be it for me.
 
  • Like
Reactions: helper800
Muckster said:
Update. I wanted to run it a few days to test it out. It's running well! Thanks guys.

I have the mobo software installed too so I can check the temps. Any suggestions for free stress testing software/demos/etc to get it hot?

What is an acceptable range for CPU and GPU temps? (Keeping in mind I want this build to last a good long while...)

Fans aren't loud, but they are making an anoying soft honing sound like...


View: https://youtu.be/VmgZJ3F0jm8?t=38


Maybe they'll break in, but for futre reference, if I wanted to swap out the fans, what's a good name brand? The front two fans might be custom sizes, but I think I can fit a standard (but slightly smaller) fan.

Finally, I actually miss the power light I used to have around the button. I liked to be able to instantly see if my PC tower had power. Is there a 3rd party light I could buy just to show me when my PC is on? Something that plugs into the mobo along with the Power+_ F_Panel switches? I'm literally thinking of a standalone wire that goes from the F_Panel Mobo port out the the front panel USB/power/headphone jack, etc. Do they sell just the wire with the led light on the end of it that I plug straight into a mobo pin? If it's just a tiny led, I could maybe even just drill a small hole in the case and poke it through enough. If not, then maybe something stand-alone I can plug into a molex?

Thanks. I'll check the temps at load and that should do it for the final tweaks and that will be it for me.
Click to expand...
You could easily get an LED strip or a front I/O LED light. My question is, how would you not know that the PC is on? Your monitor should be able to tell you that. There is only one other option for the front fans in 160mm, however, it kind of defeats the purpose of getting any other fans than the ones that case comes with. As Lucky_SLS said, try messing with the fan curves. The fans must be hitting some resonant frequency with whatever RPMs they are hitting stock. Try setting them to their full RPM range and make note of the RPM this starts happening and adjust the RPM curve to avoid it. It every review I have seen, that case has not had such an issue, but i could be mistaken.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Muckster and Lucky_SLS
Lucky_SLS said:
You might want to play around with fan curves a bit. The stock fan curve might be too aggressive.

Regarding the PC ON or OFF, did you get the RGB version of the 216 or non RGB? cuz the RGB fans are a good indication.
Click to expand...
I got the non-rgb version, but I didn't think that included hard drive and power lights being removed. Cable to plug into mobo was molded together and not separate wires as I've seen in the past.
 
helper800 said:
You could easily get an LED strip or a front I/O LED light. My question is, how would you not know that the PC is on? Your monitor should be able to tell you that. There is only one other option for the front fans in 160mm, however, it kind of defeats the purpose of getting any other fans than the ones that case comes with. As Lucky_SLS said, try messing with the fan curves. The fans must be hitting some resonant frequency with whatever RPMs they are hitting stock. Try setting them to their full RPM range and make note of the RPM this starts happening and adjust the RPM curve to avoid it. It every review I have seen, that case has not had such an issue, but i could be mistaken.
Click to expand...

Okay, looking at that I/O link, I could just ignore the switches themselves and just use the wires for the POWER LED and HDD LED and that should work, right?

Would a LED strip just be something I plug into a USB or do they make them for the mobo or via a molex or something?

Okay, I'll mess around with the fans this weekend. The noise is softer than on the video I linked, but it's the same kind of noise.

The only other issue was I couldn't get the bluetooth driver to install. It failed to install then suggested running in compatibility mode, but I just gave up. I don't think I'll use bluetooth anyway.

Is there software for getting CPU and GPU hot for testing? CPUburn, graphic Demo, etc?
 
Last edited:
Muckster said:
Okay, looking at that I/O link, I could just ignore the switches themselves and just use the wires for the POWER LED and HDD LED and that should work, right?

Would a LED strip just be something I plug into a USB or do they make them for the mobo or via a molex or something?

Okay, I'll mess around with the fans this weekend. The noise is softer than on the video I linked, but it's the same kind of noise.

The only other issue was I couldn't get the bluetooth driver to install. It failed to install then suggested running in compatibility mode, but I just gave up. I don't think I'll use bluetooth anyway.

Is there software for getting CPU and GPU hot for testing? CPUburn, graphic Demo, etc?
Click to expand...
CPU-Z to get the CPU toasty and GPU-Z to get the GPU toasty. They both have benchmarking that can be run at your leisure.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Muckster
Muckster said:
Okay, looking at that I/O link, I could just ignore the switches themselves and just use the wires for the POWER LED and HDD LED and that should work, right?

Would a LED strip just be something I plug into a USB or do they make them for the mobo or via a molex or something?
Click to expand...
Yes to the first line. These LED strips use either the ARGB port or the RGB port on the motherboard.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Muckster
helper800 said:
Yes to the first line. These LED strips use either the ARGB port or the RGB port on the motherboard.
Click to expand...

Okay, I got the LEDs for the power and HDD. I drilled a couple holes an, presto:
https://imgpost.co/image/BBQQ

before:
https://gzhls.at/i/69/35/2846935-n5.jpg

Still, I would have preferred the LED light around the button like on my old Fractal Design, R4:
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/iLUOkZd65ic/maxresdefault.jpg

Putting the lights in was easy. Just drill two holes + wire management. The unexpected issue was that the case F_panel plug was extra large and it used the POWER and HDD Led pins just to help hold it in. I ended up having to cut off the plastic end of the case plugin so that I could reach the pins with the LED wires.

And the funny thing is, AFTER I had it all installed, I realized the flashing Red HDD light was nothing but an annoying constantly flashing red light. Who knew? So I went back in and unplugged it from the mobo. lol.

Still working on fans. Such a weird honing noise, even when not at all loaded. Might even be the vid card? I might just have to learn to live with it or perhaps they will break in over time. It's not loud and it's not hard to change fans if I really need to.

Helper, so do you leave the button pressed IN on the back of your Seagate PSU? I use a beat up old desk for my PC, so I actually went through the trouble of drilling 3/4" holes in the bottom of the desk (beneath the back fo the case bottom) so it can pull up air from the cold tile floor below.

I'll try the burn in software and see how it goes. I don't expect problems, and after tha I might officially call this build done.

Thanks guys.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Lucky_SLS and helper800
Muckster said:
Okay, I got the LEDs for the power and HDD. I drilled a couple holes an, presto:
https://imgpost.co/image/BBQQ

before:
https://gzhls.at/i/69/35/2846935-n5.jpg

Still, I would have preferred the LED light around the button like on my old Fractal Design, R4:
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/iLUOkZd65ic/maxresdefault.jpg

Putting the lights in was easy. Just drill two holes + wire management. The unexpected issue was that the case F_panel plug was extra large and it used the POWER and HDD Led pins just to help hold it in. I ended up having to cut off the plastic end of the case plugin so that I could reach the pins with the LED wires.

And the funny thing is, AFTER I had it all installed, I realized the flashing Red HDD light was nothing but an annoying constantly flashing red light. Who knew? So I went back in and unplugged it from the mobo. lol.

Still working on fans. Such a weird honing noise, even when not at all loaded. Might even be the vid card? I might just have to learn to live with it or perhaps they will break in over time. It's not loud and it's not hard to change fans if I really need to.

Helper, so do you leave the button pressed IN on the back of your Seagate PSU? I use a beat up old desk for my PC, so I actually went through the trouble of drilling 3/4" holes in the bottom of the desk (beneath the back fo the case bottom) so it can pull up air from the cold tile floor below.

I'll try the burn in software and see how it goes. I don't expect problems, and after tha I might officially call this build done.

Thanks guys.
Click to expand...
Its a nice little mod that you did, looks good. The red light is likely the HDD activity light and is meant to flash about like that. Are you sure that its the fans making that noise you are experiencing? It may be coil whine. You can look it up to understand what that sounds like to compare. Not much you can do about coil whine. If its the fans usually you can manipulate the RPMs to make them quiet or at least tolerable. I keep the active cooling enabled for the PSU instead of having the fan constantly spin because this allows for the fan to last many years longer.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Muckster
Lucky_SLS said:
You might want to play around with fan curves a bit. The stock fan curve might be too aggressive.

Regarding the PC ON or OFF, did you get the RGB version of the 216 or non RGB? cuz the RGB fans are a good indication.
Click to expand...
Hey, I'm back. lol.

If you'd rather this thread stay dead just ignore this post and I'll post a new thread on this topic. I would be 100% okay with that.

I installed the mobo software that lets me monitor the fan settings from software while in windows 11. Silent, Normal, Manual modes. I'm a little nervous messing with these settings as I don't want to do something stupid and turn off my fans. As a precaution, I could set alarms in my bios for when temps get too high, but I'm not sure what the limit should be.

The fan noise, other than the honing sound, has a subtle surging sound to it as well, repeating on a frequency. This is hard to describe. Just doing the best I can.

According to my mobo software, here's what I've got in NORMAL mode which is what runs by default. These vary, of course, but here is a snapshot. Just running the mobo software from desktop, nothing else going on ("no load"). Fan/speed.

"Normal" Mode (default)
CPU/991
Sys1/783
Sys2/697
Sys3/696
CPU temp: 35
Fan Duty Cycle: 56

If I go to "Silent" Mode, I get:
CPU/698
Sys1/672
Sys2/639
Sys3/635
CPU temp: 35
Fan Duty Cycle: 38

In "Silent" mode, the PC is essentially quiet and I have no issues with noise.

At no load, for both Normal and Silent mode, GPU fans aren't running at all, I guess becuase I'm not stressing the GPU.

I do expect to have more noise when I'm under load, but in a quiet room the "NORMAL" fan mode, the noise is petty, but still quite annoying. I can't get used to it.

It SEEMS to me that the noise I'm getting is from the CPU fan. Not sure when it starts, but it definitely goes away when I go from NORMAL (970s) to SILENT (650-690s).

I don't see a way to specifically adjust the fan speed with this software even in "MANUAL" mode. Seems I'm just dragging the dot on the grid I guess to tell the fan when to trigger at what temp rather than what actual speed to run. Same thing playing with fan controls from BIOS.

I guess the idea, once I figure out how to do it, would be to tweak just the CPU fan perhaps buy running a custom version of fan speed using the MANUAL mode. But I shouldn't have to do this, right? It's a new PC, not overclocked, and I should be able to run on NORMAL mode. On Silent mode, with no load, cpu temp seems are unaffected, but of course I want to run safely when loaded as well, so I'd like to keep it in "normal" mode if possible.

Anyway, I'm first thinking about hardware fixes.

1) It is possible I didn't apply the termal paste very well? I could redo it. Does a fan speed of near 1000 suggest it isn't cooling well?

2) If not the paste, perhaps my CPU cooler install is incorrect somehow? I mentioned during the build my cooler was almost resting on the memory sticks so I raished the fans up a few mms. Perhaps the cooler body is touching the mobo somewhere amd sending a vibration sound through the mobo? Just specualting.

3) I bought the Thermalright PS120 SE.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BNH1W546/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Fan described as:
【PWM Fan】 TL-C12B V2; Standard size industrial grade PWM performance PC fan: 120x120x25mm (4.92x4.92x0.98 inches); Fan speed (RPM): 1500rpm±10%; Power port: 4-pin; Voltage: 12V; Air flow: 66.17CFM (max); Noise level ≤25.6dB(A), high performance fan combined with efficient heat dissipation The cooling body of the unit gives you the best cooling effect.

There are two fans. How about I just buy a couple of high quality "SILENT" fans to replace these? Could you suggest a replacement?
 
Muckster said:
Hey, I'm back. lol.

If you'd rather this thread stay dead just ignore this post and I'll post a new thread on this topic. I would be 100% okay with that.

I installed the mobo software that lets me monitor the fan settings from software while in windows 11. Silent, Normal, Manual modes. I'm a little nervous messing with these settings as I don't want to do something stupid and turn off my fans. As a precaution, I could set alarms in my bios for when temps get too high, but I'm not sure what the limit should be.

The fan noise, other than the honing sound, has a subtle surging sound to it as well, repeating on a frequency. This is hard to describe. Just doing the best I can.

According to my mobo software, here's what I've got in NORMAL mode which is what runs by default. These vary, of course, but here is a snapshot. Just running the mobo software from desktop, nothing else going on ("no load"). Fan/speed.

"Normal" Mode (default)
CPU/991
Sys1/783
Sys2/697
Sys3/696
CPU temp: 35
Fan Duty Cycle: 56

If I go to "Silent" Mode, I get:
CPU/698
Sys1/672
Sys2/639
Sys3/635
CPU temp: 35
Fan Duty Cycle: 38

In "Silent" mode, the PC is essentially quiet and I have no issues with noise.

At no load, for both Normal and Silent mode, GPU fans aren't running at all, I guess becuase I'm not stressing the GPU.

I do expect to have more noise when I'm under load, but in a quiet room the "NORMAL" fan mode, the noise is petty, but still quite annoying. I can't get used to it.

It SEEMS to me that the noise I'm getting is from the CPU fan. Not sure when it starts, but it definitely goes away when I go from NORMAL (970s) to SILENT (650-690s).

I don't see a way to specifically adjust the fan speed with this software even in "MANUAL" mode. Seems I'm just dragging the dot on the grid I guess to tell the fan when to trigger at what temp rather than what actual speed to run. Same thing playing with fan controls from BIOS.

I guess the idea, once I figure out how to do it, would be to tweak just the CPU fan perhaps buy running a custom version of fan speed using the MANUAL mode. But I shouldn't have to do this, right? It's a new PC, not overclocked, and I should be able to run on NORMAL mode. On Silent mode, with no load, cpu temp seems are unaffected, but of course I want to run safely when loaded as well, so I'd like to keep it in "normal" mode if possible.

Anyway, I'm first thinking about hardware fixes.

1) It is possible I didn't apply the termal paste very well? I could redo it. Does a fan speed of near 1000 suggest it isn't cooling well?

2) If not the paste, perhaps my CPU cooler install is incorrect somehow? I mentioned during the build my cooler was almost resting on the memory sticks so I raished the fans up a few mms. Perhaps the cooler body is touching the mobo somewhere amd sending a vibration sound through the mobo? Just specualting.

3) I bought the Thermalright PS120 SE.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BNH1W546/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Fan described as:
【PWM Fan】 TL-C12B V2; Standard size industrial grade PWM performance PC fan: 120x120x25mm (4.92x4.92x0.98 inches); Fan speed (RPM): 1500rpm±10%; Power port: 4-pin; Voltage: 12V; Air flow: 66.17CFM (max); Noise level ≤25.6dB(A), high performance fan combined with efficient heat dissipation The cooling body of the unit gives you the best cooling effect.

There are two fans. How about I just buy a couple of high quality "SILENT" fans to replace these? Could you suggest a replacement?
Click to expand...
I would copy and paste this as a new post in systems!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Lucky_SLS and Muckster
You must log in or register to reply here.

TRENDING THREADS

Latest posts

Moderators online

Share this page

COMPANY
RESOURCES
FOLLOW
Top Bottom