Build Advice New $2000 build based on Toms Guide ?

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Yuck, is Microsoft now forcing people to sign up with their email service in order to install Windows 11? In the past there were ways to avoid it. Just another email address I not only have to create and keep track of, but if I don't use it regularly it will stop working and I'll lose it. And at some point I'll be force to give them my telephone number or they'll disable it. Whatta bunch of BS. Honestly, people in my generation don't understand how this country just decided to give away all our personal information and privacy.

Is it not enough I paid $129? Is there no way around forcing me to create an email address with them?
Here is a guide resource on how to setup Windows 11 without a microsoft account. For me, I already had a hotmail email address from years prior, which is a Microsoft account nowadays, and used it for this purpose.
 
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That's a good link Helper, but now I just want to start over. Any chance you know a way to create a bootable USB that will let me reformat the m.2 on my new PC? I can't seem to find a freeware one.
 
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lol, I sure get in my own way sometimes.

I ended up finishing the install on the new PC, then creating a Win 11 recovery USB. After reboot, I was able to get to a command prompt. From there I went OLD SCHOOL. Used Diskpart to delete the OS partition and Recovery Drive, but I couldn't overide to kill the EFI, so reboot again with the regular Windows 11 USB. Went through the first few steps to get to the part where you can format the SSD. Then I deleted the remaining EFI volume and now I'm back to start with a completely unformatted SSD.

It wasn't pretty, but that's an old school way of doing it, probably far from the easiest. lol.

It's so late in the day I'm just gonna tear down the build and wait for the new mobo before doing it all again.
 
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What is best practice for installing Windows 11 on an new unformatted 2TB SSD? It's my understanding that Windows creates 3 partitions in addition to the one with the OS. The first 2 are in front but the Recovery partition is created AFTER the OS partition. So if I want to create my own custom partitions (which I do) then I should probably establish the drive size for Windows at the very beginning during install. I was thinking 125GB. Then, I assume the rest of the SSD, after the Recovery partition, will be available unformatted and available to partition off as I please. That also means I should never try to shrink or expand the OS partition because it might mess up the order or size of the Recovery parttition.

The other method would be to just install windows to the entire SSD letting windows again create those extra partitions. The idea would be that you could go back later and shrink the OS partition and create your own custom ones. But being this is Win 11 and it puts the Recovery Partition after the OS partition, I can see a problem with this method because new partitions might get stuck between the OS partition and the Recovery Partition.
 
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What is best practice for installing Windows 11 on an new unformatted 2TB SSD? It's my understanding that Windows creates 3 partitions in addition to the one with the OS. The first 2 are in front but the Recovery partition is created AFTER the OS partition. So if I want to create my own custom partitions (which I do) then I should probably establish the drive size for Windows at the very beginning during install. I was thinking 125GB. Then, I assume the rest of the SSD, after the Recovery partition, will be available unformatted and available to partition off as I please. That also means I should never try to shrink or expand the OS partition because it might mess up the order or size of the Recovery parttition.

The other method would be to just install windows to the entire SSD letting windows again create those extra partitions. The idea would be that you could go back later and shrink the OS partition and create your own custom ones. But being this is Win 11 and it puts the Recovery Partition after the OS partition, I can see a problem with this method because new partitions might get stuck between the OS partition and the Recovery Partition.
I never really saw the need to do partitioning so I have very little experience with making them. You are correct that windows itself creates a number of partitions on the OS drive for a number of reasons you have spelt out. I would make partitions for the sizes that you need leaving windows in the leftover large partition. That way windows has all of the space it needs for updates et cetera while retaining the slack space for increasing or decreasing the partitions as you see fit.
 
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I never really saw the need to do partitioning so I have very little experience with making them. You are correct that windows itself creates a number of partitions on the OS drive for a number of reasons you have spelt out. I would make partitions for the sizes that you need leaving windows in the leftover large partition. That way windows has all of the space it needs for updates et cetera while retaining the slack space for increasing or decreasing the partitions as you see fit.
Cool. I'll pay around with it. I suspect Windows 11 isn't going to care where the other partitions are so long as the Recovery partition remains to the right of the OS partition. My custom partitions might be between the OS and the Recovery or they will be to the right of both the OS and the Recovery partition. It probably doesn't matter.

Well, my new mobo just arrived. Again, it's an open box with no plastic wrap and not so much as a piece of tape to keep it closed. *sigh

Oh well, so long as it's still revision 1.2, I'll go ahead and install it all over again. If I get that same error I'll just hit "Y" and proceed.

This time tomorrow at the latest I expect to have it all running. Thanks to you and Lucky and all my premeditated questions I think it might be smooth sailing from here!

Enjoy your weekend. :)

Edit: Or maybe I'll just pour myself a bourbon and return the "new" mobo to amazon tomorrow without re-building anything.
 
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Update: I chose the bourbon. Not doing all that again just to install yet another OPENED BOX mobo.

You guys may not put extra partitions on your SSD so this isn't for you, but on the very tiny chance someone else is reading this, it does seem to matter. It's my understanding you should make an OS partition bigger than you need and create it at the beginning of your install which will make the windows generated recovery partition appear immediately after the OS partition. Then you create whatever custom partitions you want to the right of that.
https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/a...ecovery-partition-is-typically-created-at-the

One thing I want to be able to do is make reliable backup images of my OS while leaving my custom partitions alone. It's much more involved that I thought it would be. Long story short, I might be best off with another m.2 reserved exclusively for the OS.

Could you guys recommend another m.2, something just as good at the T500 with that cool DRAM cache feature? And just to make it harder, could you recommend a 256GB, a 512GB and a 1TB size? Haven't yet figured out how big it needs to be.

Oh, and is it true I have 30 days before I'm forced to activate Windows with my key? Hardware and OEMs concerns.... I'd prefer to wait to active until I've made up my mind about the second HD.

Also, when installing windows I can choose between "Windows 11 Home" and "Windows 11 Home N" I already bought the key and don't care which version I have but I want to make sure I don't setup the wrong verison and have the key not work later.

Here's the one I bought at newegg. That's the non-N regular version, right?
https://www.newegg.com/microsoft-windows-11-home/p/N82E16832351756?Item=N82E16832351756
 
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You can technically use windows for ever without activating. You wont be able to customise some features and have the watermark on the bottom of the screen, you dont have a time limit.

You have bought the regular home version. Dont install the N version.

I just have a 500gb OS drive and the rest as a separate drive. I am not fussed about partitions and size.

go for a 1tb drive.

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/JX...2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-lnm800p001t-rnnng

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/fV...m2-2280-solid-state-drive-sb-rocket-nvme4-1tb
 
You can technically use windows for ever without activating. You wont be able to customise some features and have the watermark on the bottom of the screen, you dont have a time limit.
Thanks. Good to know.

You have bought the regular home version. Dont install the N version.
Thanks for the confirmation. I guessed right during install.
I just have a 500gb OS drive and the rest as a separate drive. I am not fussed about partitions and size.

go for a 1tb drive.

I guess it couldn't hurt to go bigger than I think I would need. I don't do sector-by-sector backup, so it empty space doesn't slow down the process at all.

So I've checked these out then went back and checked out the stats on the T500. I also read a Toms guide but they were a little higher end . How is that DRAM cache described in the specifications? I don't see it mentioned anywhere. Is it possible I even bought the wrong T500 SSD?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CK2TC9XQ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

Any other similar models to recommend? I don't mind paying more for something just as good or better if I can get it here a little faster.

As always, thanks for the help.
 
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You have got the correct T500. DRAM spec is not that widely mentioned. You have to dig deep to find what you are looking for.

"The T500 uses the Phison E25 SSD controller, and it’s the first time we’ve seen it. It was announced earlier this year, but details were scarce, especially compared to the E27T and E31T. The controller is paired with 1GB of LPDDR4 per TB capacity, which is ample and efficient."

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/crucial-2tb-t500-ssd-review

For just OS files, you dont really need something that fast and expensive. its not really a bottleneck.

If you want a really good model, you might as well go for another T500.
 
You have got the correct T500. DRAM spec is not that widely mentioned. You have to dig deep to find what you are looking for.

"The T500 uses the Phison E25 SSD controller, and it’s the first time we’ve seen it. It was announced earlier this year, but details were scarce, especially compared to the E27T and E31T. The controller is paired with 1GB of LPDDR4 per TB capacity, which is ample and efficient."

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/crucial-2tb-t500-ssd-review

For just OS files, you dont really need something that fast and expensive. its not really a bottleneck.

If you want a really good model, you might as well go for another T500.
Okay, so this would be the same T500 with the DRAM but in a smaller 1TB size, right?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CK39YR9V?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
 
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Make sure to clear CMOS after a BIOS update and then set your RAM XMP/EXPO profile back on.
Hey guys, I'm really at the very end of this build (and thread) very soon. 😉

So I installed all the divers except the LAN drivers, then I flashed the bios, and then cleared the cmos like Helper taught me. I went back into my bios and there's an option for "load defaults" which I did. (It was recommended in the mobo manual after clearing CMOS).

In the BIOs...
I changed "XMP/EXPO Profile from "disabled" to "EXPO 1"

The following two settings were toggled to "OFF"
low latency support = on/off
XMP/EXPO High Bandwidth Support = on/off

I set "XMP/EXPO High Bandwidth Support" to "ON", but left "low latency support" on "OFF."

When I rebooted, I went into my Task Manager then to Memory.

(As you know my system ram is G.Skill Flare X5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory.)
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/LB...-ddr5-6000-cl30-memory-f5-6000j3038f16gx2-fx5

Anyway, it reports the full 32GB of memory with a speed of 6000 MHz. Is this enough information to be certain that XMP/EXPO is enabled?

Should I turn "ON" "low latency support" in the BIOS?
 
Anyway, it reports the full 32GB of memory with a speed of 6000 MHz. Is this enough information to be certain that XMP/EXPO is enabled?

Should I turn "ON" "low latency support" in the BIOS?
Yes.

I am not sure of what the setting does. Does it have a description in the BIOS?

I would just run the executable for the LAN drivers. I have never seen a driver without an executable for a mainstream consumer motherboard... The worst that happens is that it does not work, at best its over and done with.

You are going to want to enable resizable BAR in BIOS as well. I found this resource on how to do so for gigabyte boards. Scroll down to where it says, "2. Motherboard BIOS Settings," and follow the steps.
 
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I am not exactly sure why there would need to be a pre-install, but that would seem to be the order of things.

May not be your area of expertise, but I'll ask anyway....

As you may recall, the LAN driver had two listed:

• Realteck LAN Preinstall driver
• Realtek LAN Driver

https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/B650-AORUS-ELITE-AX-rev-12/support#support-dl-driver-lan

We thought it good practice to do the Preinstall driver first, but there's no setup in that folder, just a unzipped folder holding 3 files..
rt25cx21x64.cat
rt25cx21x64.inf
rt25cx21x64.sys

The NON-preinstall driver is an executable, but I haven't run that one yet. Any ideas what to do with the pre-install driver? I'm continuing to research and will check back and delete this post if I can figure it out.

I found this guide which is a similar but not identical driver. But again, my pre-install package doesn't have a setup file as described by this guide. But, I could try the Manual install. Just worried I'll mess it up.
https://drivers.softpedia.com/get/N...tall-Driver-B23-02-23-01-for-Windows-11.shtml


EDIT: okay, you saw this before I moved it and recreated it as a reply....
 
May not be your area of expertise, but I'll ask anyway....

As you may recall, the LAN driver had two listed:

• Realteck LAN Preinstall driver
• Realtek LAN Driver

https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/B650-AORUS-ELITE-AX-rev-12/support#support-dl-driver-lan

We thought it good practice to do the Preinstall driver first, but there's no setup in that folder, just a unzipped folder holding 3 files..
rt25cx21x64.cat
rt25cx21x64.inf
rt25cx21x64.sys

The NON-preinstall driver is an executable, but I haven't run that one yet. Any ideas what to do with the pre-install driver? I'm continuing to research and will check back and delete this post if I can figure it out.

I found this guide which is a similar but not identical driver. But again, my pre-install package doesn't have a setup file as described by this guide. But, I could try the Manual install. Just worried I'll mess it up.
https://drivers.softpedia.com/get/N...tall-Driver-B23-02-23-01-for-Windows-11.shtml


EDIT: okay, you saw this before I moved it and recreated it as a reply....
I would say that considering the context of this statement, "- NOTE: Manual installation is a kind of method of installation by advanced user. Generic users please use the "setup.exe" to install driver," from that link at the bottom, they want you to use the executable version.
 
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Yes.

I am not sure of what the setting does. Does it have a description in the BIOS?

I would just run the executable for the LAN drivers. I have never seen a driver without an executable for a mainstream consumer motherboard... The worst that happens is that it does not work, at best its over and done with.

You are going to want to enable resizable BAR in BIOS as well. I found this resource on how to do so for gigabyte boards. Scroll down to where it says, "2. Motherboard BIOS Settings," and follow the steps.

Regarding the LAN driver... is it truly only about setting up the local area network and nothing else, right? If I setup a private local network or game on LAN, can I assume it's good? Once I run the executable, I might be able to see a directory in which to dump the "preinstall" files, then maybe somehow re-run the driver install and it might see/use them. Meh, like you say, as long as it works.



I checked your BAR in bios linked. It says I need to check compatibility with my other components. I'll do that, then look into if further. (I would NEVER have known that was even a thing had you not mentioned it.- thanks!)

I thought the low latency support was a more typical option. I've tried researching it, but I'm still confused. Maybe I should just leave it off an not mess with it? More of an overclocking tool?

Just checked the BIOS again. No information. No mouse over, etc. Just and on/off.

Here's what an AI chat bot said about it:

The "low latency support" in the Gigabyte main board BIOS refers to an option that, when enabled, optimizes memory timings to reduce latency, potentially leading to higher performance. This option is typically found in the BIOS settings of motherboards and is related to memory optimization. Enabling low latency support may automatically optimize memory timings, resulting in lower latency and potentially improved system responsiveness. However, it's important to note that enabling this option may require careful consideration and testing, as it can impact system stability, particularly when combined with other memory-related settings such as XMP/EXPO high bandwidth support
3
.The specific impact of enabling "low latency support" can vary depending on the system configuration and the type of memory modules being used. It's recommended to consult the motherboard's manual or the manufacturer's official documentation for detailed information about this feature and its potential effects on system performance and stability. Additionally, user experiences and discussions on online forums can provide insights into how this feature behaves in practical scenarios, but it's important to approach such information with caution and consider the specific context of each user's setup and requirements.

and here's an article that refers to it
 
I would say that considering the context of this statement, "- NOTE: Manual installation is a kind of method of installation by advanced user. Generic users please use the "setup.exe" to install driver," from that link at the bottom, they want you to use the executable version.
I saw that too, but there is no executable to install the driver, at least not in the pre-install version.
 
I checked your BAR in bios linked. It says I need to check compatibility with my other components. I'll do that, then look into if further. (I would NEVER have known that was even a thing had you not mentioned it.- thanks!)

I thought the low latency support was a more typical option. I've tried researching it, but I'm still confused. Maybe I should just leave it off an not mess with it? More of an overclocking tool?

Just checked the BIOS again. No information. No mouse over, etc. Just and on/off.
Your PC is perfectly compatible with re-bar, its just a matter of turning it on, but check for compatibility if that suits your fancy.

That low latency option seems like an OCing type of option. Since you already have EXPO enable the RAM is already set to its advertised speeds and timings. If that setting were to try and push those speeds or settings you may end up with some instability, therefore, I would keep it off.