Question New build PC - Crashing a few minutes into playing games

[Jamie_Kinman]

As the title suggests, I've recently built my first ever gaming PC and so far have been really happy with how it's come together.

That is until I've started testing it with games. I started with a run through on Total War: Warhammer. Whenever I enter a battle, the game lasts for roughly 4 minutes before crashing back to the desktop or even turning off and restarting completely. The PC makes a fairly loud noise from the fans during gameplay.

I've also tried playing Total War: Warhammer 2 and Counter Strike Source 2, with very similar results.

I don't believe the components are insufficient to be playing any of these games but am I bit stumped as to what's going wrong. I'm fairly certain all my drivers are up to date too.

My PC is built up of the following parts:

Motherboard: Gigabyte B760M DS3H DDR5 mATX
CPU: Intel® CoreTM i5-13400F Desktop Processor
GPU: MSI Radeon RX 6650 XT MECH 2X 8G
PSU: Corsair RM750 (2021)
RAM: Patriot Viper Venom DDR5 16GB (2 x 8GB) 5600MHz
SSD: Intel Disque Dur SSD 660P 1TO M.2 2280

Any help is much appreciated. Thanks!

 

[MrN1ce9uy]

Check your CPU temps. What CPU cooler are you using? If it's the stock Intel cooler, ensure it is installed properly by checking if the pushpins are seated properly.

 

[Jamie_Kinman]

Check your CPU temps. What CPU cooler are you using? If it's the stock Intel cooler, ensure it is installed properly by checking if the pushpins are seated properly.

The CPU cooler is just the stock heatsink it comes with I believe. I was advised it would be sufficient instead of adding an additional cooling unit.

I'll have to get back to you regarding the temperature when I've finished work, I'll also take some pictures of the set up regarding the pushpins.

 

[Ralston18]

Regarding:

"the game lasts for roughly 4 minutes before crashing back to the desktop or even turning off and restarting completely."

Look in Reliability History/Monitor and Event Viewer.

Either one or both tools may be capturing some error code, warning, or even an information event just before or at the time of the crashes.

Reliability History is much more end user friendly and the timeline format can reveal patterns.

Event Viewer requires more time and effort to navigate and undertand.

To help with Event Viewer:

How To - How to use Windows 10 Event Viewer | Tom's Hardware Forum (tomshardware.com)

Both tools support clicking any given entry for more details about what happened. The details may or may not prove helpful.

 

[Jamie_Kinman]

Regarding:

"the game lasts for roughly 4 minutes before crashing back to the desktop or even turning off and restarting completely."

Look in Reliability History/Monitor and Event Viewer.

Either one or both tools may be capturing some error code, warning, or even an information event just before or at the time of the crashes.

Reliability History is much more end user friendly and the timeline format can reveal patterns.

Event Viewer requires more time and effort to navigate and undertand.

To help with Event Viewer:

How To - How to use Windows 10 Event Viewer | Tom's Hardware Forum (tomshardware.com)

Both tools support clicking any given entry for more details about what happened. The details may or may not prove helpful.

I've loaded up the Reliability History and over the last few days there's the following errors from what I can see. Note - There are a number of problems that state windows shut down unexpectedly like the first two errors below. Too many to post. The other is a hardware error, see three errors down.

Problem: Shut down unexpectedly
Problem Event Name: BlueScreen
Code: 1a
Parameter 1: 61941
Parameter 2: 1d616860000
Parameter 3: b
Parameter 4: ffffbe0f1cdafe20
OS version: 10_0_22621
Service Pack: 0_0
Product: 768_1
OS Version: 10.0.22621.2.0.0.768.101
Locale ID: 2057

Problem: Shut down unexpectedly
Problem Event Name: BlueScreen
Code: 50
Parameter 1: fffff802f652dd95
Parameter 2: 10
Parameter 3: fffff802f652dd95
Parameter 4: 2
OS version: 10_0_22621
Service Pack: 0_0
Product: 768_1
OS Version: 10.0.22621.2.0.0.768.101
Locale ID: 2057

Problem: Hardware error
Problem Event Name: LiveKernelEvent
Code: 193
Parameter 1: 815
Parameter 2: 2
Parameter 3: ffffd80b3cc750c0
Parameter 4: 0
OS version: 10_0_22621
Service Pack: 0_0
Product: 768_1
OS Version: 10.0.22621.2.0.0.768.101
Locale ID: 2057

The hardware error seems most likely to be the root of this, I'd imagine and a Google search suggests "The LiveKernelEvent 193 error can be occurred due to an incompatible or outdated chipset driver which is responsible for controlling the communications between CPU, GPU, hard drive, and the system memory. If you have outdated chipset drivers, it can result in making your PC unstable to resource-intensive tasks."

Is this likely to be the issue, if so, any suggestions as to how I can ensure I have the right chipset driver as I thought I had the right drivers up to date.

 

[Jamie_Kinman]

Event Viewer seems to be throwing the following up as a regular issue:
The description for Event ID 56 from source Application Popup cannot be found. Either the component that raises this event is not installed on your local computer or the installation is corrupted. You can install or repair the component on the local computer.

If the event originated on another computer, the display information had to be saved with the event.

The following information was included with the event:

ACPI
2

The message resource is present but the message was not found in the message table

There are also a number of errors that state:
The server {AB8902B4-09CA-4BB6-B78D-A8F59079A8D5} did not register with DCOM within the required timeout.

 

[Ralston18]

The 4 minute span suggests to me that something heats up and then gets "too hot" thus causing the crash. "Required timeout noted".

PSU: two years old - history of heavy gaming use - correct?

Overall, in my mine, increasing numbers of errors and varying errors is a sign of a faltering faiiling PSU.

May be at or nearing its designed in EOL (End of Life).

Making the PSU a potential culprit.

Things you can do:

There are some other things that can be done before directly addressing the PSU.

Power down, unplug, open the case.

Clean out dust and debris.

Verify by sight and feel that all connectors, cards, RAM, jumpers. and case connections are fully and firmly in place.

Ensure that all fans and airflow paths are open and clear of dust.

Use a bright flashlight to inspect everywhere for signs of damage, loose or missing screws, melting, bare conductor showing, browned or blackened areas, cracks, loose wires, kinked or pinched wires, etc..

After that, run "dism" and "sfc /scannow" to find and fix some possibly corrupted files.

FYI:

https://www.windowscentral.com/how-use-dism-command-line-utility-repair-windows-10-image

https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-use-sfc-scannow-to-repair-windows-system-files-2626161

Determine if the above efforts make any difference. Continue watching the errors and error patterns. Pay attention to what, if anything changes.

Then go forward as warranted.

 

[Jamie_Kinman]

The 4 minute span suggests to me that something heats up and then gets "too hot" thus causing the crash. "Required timeout noted".

PSU: two years old - history of heavy gaming use - correct?

Overall, in my mine, increasing numbers of errors and varying errors is a sign of a faltering faiiling PSU.

May be at or nearing its designed in EOL (End of Life).

Making the PSU a potential culprit.

Things you can do:

There are some other things that can be done before directly addressing the PSU.

Power down, unplug, open the case.

Clean out dust and debris.

Verify by sight and feel that all connectors, cards, RAM, jumpers. and case connections are fully and firmly in place.

Ensure that all fans and airflow paths are open and clear of dust.

Use a bright flashlight to inspect everywhere for signs of damage, loose or missing screws, melting, bare conductor showing, browned or blackened areas, cracks, loose wires, kinked or pinched wires, etc..

After that, run "dism" and "sfc /scannow" to find and fix some possibly corrupted files.

FYI:

https://www.windowscentral.com/how-use-dism-command-line-utility-repair-windows-10-image

https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-use-sfc-scannow-to-repair-windows-system-files-2626161

Determine if the above efforts make any difference. Continue watching the errors and error patterns. Pay attention to what, if anything changes.

Then go forward as warranted.

The PSU is brand new, out of the box a couple of days ago. Likewise, the PC was put together last week, there is minimal to no dust or debris within the case.

I shall look into running the DISM and SFC/SCANNOW prompts tomorrow and report back.

It does seem like the issue is heat related. The fans get fairly loud and having removed the side panel whilst playing, it gets pretty warm between the GPU and CPU. Having looked at the AMD software that allows you to tune settings and log performance whilst gaming, that says the CPU is only getting to 48 degrees, which doesn't seem dramatically high to me?

 

[Ralston18]

Unfortunately a brand new PSU (as with any component) is not a guarantee that it will fully work as expected.

PC being newly put together is another clue. No one wants to force anything - especially with a new build.

So what may seem tight and/or fully in place may not be so.

Power down, unplug AC.

Carefully unplug and replug all internal connections a few time. Do the same with cards and RAM. Jumpers as well.

You may discover that something suddenly just goes into place more smoothly and solidly.

While doing so use a flashlight to inspect pins and slots for anything amiss.

And, I would be remiss not to ask, what thermal paste was used and how was the paste applied?

 

[Misgar]

If you're running your RAM with an XMP overclock of 5600MT/s, temporarily switch off XMP in the BIOS and revert to the default (lower) JEDEC speed of 4200MT/s (or thereabouts).

Play the game and see if the system runs longer with XMP disabled. If so, the memory overclock isn't stable. Increase the CL value for each DIMM by one or two clock cycles after invoking XMP again, to calm things down.

I normally replace the stock heatsink and fan on most new Intel and AMD processors for something a bit bigger, apart from low end (old) Celeron, Sempron and Pentium CPUs.

For browsing the web, a stock heatsink is OK. For demanding games, a bigger heatsink will reduce temperatures and the chance of CPU throttling at 100C.