Oiling Pc Fans

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One suggestion - when you use a hole saw or a fine toothed recip saw (Sawzall), try and sandwich the sheet metal between 2 pieces of 1/2" plywood and clamp well. Also cover the area being cut with duct tape on both sides. The cut will be much better this way. Applies to drilling too. Look into a Greenlee hole punch too (common electrician's tool)..
 
@ Uberales

yeah I was going to get the antec 900 until I saw this baby! that fan behind the MoBo is what sold me on this case besides the 8 expansion slots and MANY other cool features. every case has it's little "niche" of a selling point, but this case seemed to put them all in one place. I am very happy with this purchase. Matter of fact, my mother and I BOTH got one! LOL when she saw it she was like "I WANT ONE TOO!!!" - and besides the killer features, her nick is Red Dragon Rider - so I am going to mod hers to be all red LED vs the factory blue LOL.

@Bigmac
Just buy a Noctua fan...
I support Australian made (AC/DC) but I would have to say the Cooler Master V8 is a much better buy - and besides... it's just WAY to frikkin cool lookin'!
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I have the CV V8 heatsink. I installed it on an i7-920 and got idle temps of 34 to 35 degs. C.

Then I decided to upgrade the mobo per EVGA's 'Step up' plan. While waiting for the new mobo to arrive, I decided to polish (no such thing as lapping on a 40mm x 40mm base) the base of the heatsink. The base was concave by about 0.0005". Enough to reduce heat transfer. The polishing solved that and rendered the base much flatter than before.

Re-installed everything. The idle temps were 5 to 8 degrees less than what they were before polishing. (I left the CPU heat spreader alone).
 
how did you "polish" the base, Uber?

2500 grit color sanding paper... buffer wheel???

btw, what kind of thermal compound you using.

i am going to end up using OCZ'z "freeze" - a lot of reviewers say it does exactly what the package claims... drops temp 10-15% under average thermal compound temps.
 

I polished the base starting with 400 grit Silicon Carbide (wet or dry) paper. When all the machining marks and high spots were gone, I switched to 1200 grit and finished it with that. The process took me about 20 minutes.

Thermal compound Arctic Silver 5

I have a much more detailed write-up on this on some other thread here.
 
Found it! Here is the guide I wrote:


Guide to Polishing Heatsink bases.

Polishing Heatsink bases is usually done by enthusiasts in order to improve heat transfer between the CPU and the heatsink. This, when done correctly results in lower CPU temps, thereby prolonging CPU life and also improving Overclocking capabilities.

Polishing is loosely referred to as "Lapping", but let it be known that whereas polishing can be done at home on a flat work surface, lapping can only be done utilizing highly accurate, expensive, and precise Lapping Machines costing tens of thousands of dollars.

Flatness and an improvement in micro finish is the objective, not necessarily a mirror finish. Frequently, after polishing, the improved flatness and the fine micro finish will make the surface look more or less like a mirror finish.

Tools requited are 1200 grit Silicon Carbide (wet or dry) paper, 2000 grit Silicon Carbide (wet or dry) paper (optional), elbow grease, and a few drops of water.

Here are the series of steps for polishing the base of a heatsink:

1. Find a flat surface to use as a base. A piece of 12" x 12" x 1/4" glass will work (glass top cocktail table, end table, breakfast table).

2. Lay a full sheet of 1200 grit Silicon Carbide paper flat on the glass surface and ensure that this sheet does not slip or slide during the polishing process. Put about 4 drops of water in the center of this sheet.

3. Place the heatsink base squarely over the center of the Silicon Carbide paper and gently start moving the heatsink base back and forth in about 2" strokes. The direction of the stroking must be towards you and away from you. Care must be taken not to tip the heatsink while you are doing this. Use a light downward force. Light force. Light force. Holding the heatsink closer to the base will help. Again, light downward force. (Practice doing this on a sheet of plain paper first if necessary - this will give you confidence).

4. Continue the stroking towards you and away from you, staying on the same central area of the Silicon Carbide sheet. Move your body (not the work piece) about 30 degrees and continue the stroking. Like dancing around a May pole. This will change the polishing direction on the heatsink base. Repeat for about 10 minutes.

5. By now, you will notice that the polishing residue on the Silicon Carbide paper is reddish - this is the color of the copper base under the Nickel plating film that is now polished away. Using the edge of a razor blade is an approximation of a straight edge. It is not a straight edge, but will give you ball park information that is close enough.

6. Continue for 10 more minutes on the same sheet of Silicon Carbide paper, and you are done. VIOLA!

7. Continuing Polishing with the 2000 grit paper is purely optional. Like icing (frosting) on the cake.


A note about the CPU: Leave the CPU alone. The heat spreader of the CPU is a sheet metal component made by the draw (see "deep drawing”) process. The thermal expansion characteristics of thin sheet metal drawn parts are hard to determine. I am reasonably sure (oxymoron?) that there will be some improvement in heat transfer if the high spots at the corners of the CPU are polished away, but the marginal gains may not be worth the efforts. Therefore, I am not recommending any polishing of the CPU. Another point to note would be that any alteration will void the warranty.
 
dude - first things first

I want to apologize for misspelling your call all this damn time!!!
"holy S*** batman your an imbecile!!"
"yeah, makes me wonder boy!"

dude i am not making excuses but i am on my mom's machine doing some tweaks, and am looking at a 21" monitor vs my usual 42" from my living room recliner - dude how the HELL did i miss that???

i apologize Ubrales (-e)

ok now that's said...

cool i copied your artricle AND added the author name (hmmm. LOL)

looks like I can get the Silicon Carbide wet or dry at Harbor Freight here in Las Vegas - COOL-aide!!!

i am willing to give this a shot - i like how you specifically mentioned to move your body, and NOT your hand... GOOD ONE, man. so I am all for this trick.

Thanks, man

EDIT:
hey, Ubrales check out this article:
http://forums.overclockersclub.com/index.php?showtopic=74393

it says 600 grit is optimal for best thermal transfer.

here's a tweaktown review on OCZ Freeze:
http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/1265/ocz_freeze_thermal_interface_material/index4.html
(final result page)

and here is a top five of 33 thermal compounds test:
http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=138&Itemid=62&limit=1&limitstart=5
(page 5 of 6)
 
The right spelling is Uber Alles! LOL - I abbreviated it to 7 letters as that was all I could get on a licence plate. No need to apologize buddy! I have been called worse! LOL

BTW, I bought my silicon carbide at Harbor Freight in Chicago; some good products in a pile of junk! "Somewhere buried in all this horse crap there is a nice pony!"

Thank you, I read all 3 posts that you linked. Good info. Reminded me of my days with YAG lasers. When properly handled and with safety precautions, lasers are safer than the cars we drive around carrying about 100 pounds of explosive gasoline at the rear of the car. Another scary but safe situation is a furnace operating at 1850 degrees F with a Hydrogen reducing atmosphere! And the hydrogen was produced by cracking anhydrous Ammonia at 1750 degs. F.
 
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