[SOLVED] PC desktop for CAD system that can handle 3-d rendering

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amacbabe

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I would like to build a new PC desktop- First time doing so.
Hoping for some advice to see if I off base- System will be used for CAD only with 3-d colored renderings- No gaming will be used for the sytem.
This is what I was thinking- hoping for some feedback-
Not sure if I am missing anything or some of the parts may not work together
thanks
- Intel Core i9-9900K Coffee Lake 8-Core, 16-Thread, 3.6 GHz (5.0 GHz Turbo) LGA 1151 (300 Series) 95W BX80684I99900K Desktop Processor Intel UHD Graphics 630

- GPU- Quaddro P2000 5GB Graphics

- ASUS Prime Z390-A/H10 Motherboard Bundled Intel Optane Memory H10 with Solid State Storage (32GB + 512GB) LGA1151 (Intel 8th and 9th Gen) ATX DDR4 DP HDMI M.2 USB 3.1 Gen2 Gigabit LAN

- CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3600 (PC4 28800) Intel XMP 2.0 Desktop Memory Model CMK32GX4M2D3600C18

-Fractal Design Meshify C Black ATX High-Airflow Compact Dark Tint Tempered Glass Window Mid Tower Computer Case

- Seagate IronWolf Pro ST4000NE001 4TB 7200 RPM 128MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive

- SAMSUNG 860 EVO Series 2.5" 500GB SATA III V-NAND 3-bit MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) MZ-76E500B/AM

-Fractal Design Celsius+ S24 Dynamic X2 PWM Black 240mm Silent Performance Slim Radiator AIO CPU Liquid/Water Cooler

- Microsoft Windows 10 Home - Full Retail Version (USB Flash Drive)

- GIGABYTE G32QC 32" 165Hz 1440P Curved Gaming Monitor, 2560 x 1440 VA 1500R Display, 1ms (MPRT) Response Time, 94% DCI-P3, VESA Display HDR400, FreeSync Premium Pro, G-Sync Compatible Ready, 1x Display Port 1.2, 2x HDMI 2.0, 2x USB 3.0
 
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Solution
Darkbreeze
First, congratulations on accomplishing your first full build. This was a rather advanced system and you weathered the bumps in the road amazingly well. Props.

I would check for driver updates every couple of months or so for the first year, and after that, only if there are problems. Most motherboards don't get many driver updates after the first year, even fewer after the second and practically none unless something is found that poses a security risk after the third, OR, if new hardware is released and it is NEEDED by way of BIOS or driver support in order to use it AND the system is still new enough to be worth using with said hardware so that the manufacturer actually gets enough feedback to goad them into providing it.

To be...
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Darkbreeze

Darkbreeze

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Stop. Do not go any further until you are sure of what you are doing.

What cooler did you end up getting? In fact, please list your FULL hardware specification list so we know exactly what we are dealing with since I don't know what you ended up getting, whether there were any changes from previous build lists, etc.
 
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amacbabe

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Mar 3, 2020
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Darkbreeze said:
Stop. Do not go any further until you are sure of what you are doing.

What cooler did you end up getting? In fact, please list your FULL hardware specification list so we know exactly what we are dealing with since I don't know what you ended up getting, whether there were any changes from previous build lists, etc.
Click to expand...
https://pin.it/5w3ldHk
Darkbreeze said:
Stop. Do not go any further until you are sure of what you are doing.

What cooler did you end up getting? In fact, please list your FULL hardware specification list so we know exactly what we are dealing with since I don't know what you ended up getting, whether there were any changes from previous build lists, etc.
Click to expand...
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($283.49 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright ARO-M14G 73.6 CFM CPU Cooler ($49.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI B450 GAMING PRO CARBON MAX WIFI ATX AM4 Motherboard ($159.99 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($139.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate BarraCuda 510 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($79.98 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate IronWolf NAS 6 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($159.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB XC ULTRA GAMING Video Card ($609.48 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Meshify S2 ATX Mid Tower Case ($158.99 @ B&H)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($124.99 @ Corsair)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($109.99 @ B&H)
Case Fan: Fractal Design X2 GP-14 (Black) 68.4 CFM 140 mm Fan ($19.07 @ Amazon)
Monitor: LG 32GK650F-B 32.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor ($346.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $2242.94
 
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Darkbreeze

Darkbreeze

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This is for a different cooler, from Thermalright, the Macho RT, but installation SHOULD be the same. There SHOULD be four additional plastic washers that are used on the back of the motherboard between the backplate and the motherboard that will space it out further and shorten the length of the fasteners on the cooler side where you are trying to attach the pillars.


If there is not, then I would contact the seller or Thermalright, probably Thermalright, and request that they send you the required washers because they were not included in the kit. You will likely need to provide them with proof of your purchase by way of invoice or receipt before they will send them to you so have that handy as well.

Or, you could simply buy the appropriately sized plastic washers that will fit over the pillars on the backplate.
 
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amacbabe

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Mar 3, 2020
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Darkbreeze said:
This is for a different cooler, from Thermalright, the Macho RT, but installation SHOULD be the same. There SHOULD be four additional plastic washers that are used on the back of the motherboard between the backplate and the motherboard that will space it out further and shorten the length of the fasteners on the cooler side where you are trying to attach the pillars.


If there is not, then I would contact the seller or Thermalright, probably Thermalright, and request that they send you the required washers because they were not included in the kit. You will likely need to provide them with proof of your purchase by way of invoice or receipt before they will send them to you so have that handy as well.

Or, you could simply buy the appropriately sized plastic washers that will fit over the pillars on the backplate.
Click to expand...
Darkbreeze said:
This is for a different cooler, from Thermalright, the Macho RT, but installation SHOULD be the same. There SHOULD be four additional plastic washers that are used on the back of the motherboard between the backplate and the motherboard that will space it out further and shorten the length of the fasteners on the cooler side where you are trying to attach the pillars.


If there is not, then I would contact the seller or Thermalright, probably Thermalright, and request that they send you the required washers because they were not included in the kit. You will likely need to provide them with proof of your purchase by way of invoice or receipt before they will send them to you so have that handy as well.

Or, you could simply buy the appropriately sized plastic washers that will fit over the pillars on the backplate.
Click to expand...
Here is what they have in the parts
https://imgur.com/a/fdM3YrP
View: https://imgur.com/a/fdM3YrP
 
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Darkbreeze

Darkbreeze

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Not sure why I can't seem to find an installation video for this cooler like every other Thermalright cooler and I can't remember what I did to resolve the spacing issue when I installed one of these M14 coolers before, but I know I initially encountered the same issue. Also on the Thermalright True spirit direct 140 cooler as well.

Let me look into this a bit more for you. We'll get it figured out.
 
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Darkbreeze

Darkbreeze

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Seems that, unlike most cooler installations, it is SUPPOSED to be slack like that, until the cooler itself is fastened down to the mounting bracket. Even other Thermalright cooler installations are different. This is apparently specific to only the M14 coolers for this Ryzen platform, since that is the only socket supported by this cooler.

This video shows exactly how to install the cooler and you'll notice that his is slack as well but that once you install the cooler onto the top of the heat spreader, there is about the same amount of slack between the cooler mounting plate and the mounting bracket that there is slack between the pillar screw/motherboard/backplate. Tightening the cooler down to the mounting bracket sucks up the backplate and takes all of the slack out of it.

Unfortunately, this is in German, so you probably can't understand what he's saying, but visually it gives you every step.



Whatever you do, do NOT put any washers on the cooler side of the motherboard to take up any slack. Putting washers on the BACKSIDE of the motherboard, between the backplate and motherboard, is a standard practice on installations where a thin PC board is used, but in this case I do not believe it is necessary and might even cause problems. Just do it as you see in the video. IIRC that is exactly what I did on the one I installed.
 
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amacbabe

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Mar 3, 2020
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Darkbreeze said:
Seems that, unlike most cooler installations, it is SUPPOSED to be slack like that, until the cooler itself is fastened down to the mounting bracket. Even other Thermalright cooler installations are different. This is apparently specific to only the M14 coolers for this Ryzen platform, since that is the only socket supported by this cooler.

This video shows exactly how to install the cooler and you'll notice that his is slack as well but that once you install the cooler onto the top of the heat spreader, there is about the same amount of slack between the cooler mounting plate and the mounting bracket that there is slack between the pillar screw/motherboard/backplate. Tightening the cooler down to the mounting bracket sucks up the backplate and takes all of the slack out of it.

Unfortunately, this is in German, so you probably can't understand what he's saying, but visually it gives you every step.



Whatever you do, do NOT put any washers on the cooler side of the motherboard to take up any slack. Putting washers on the BACKSIDE of the motherboard, between the backplate and motherboard, is a standard practice on installations where a thin PC board is used, but in this case I do not believe it is necessary and might even cause problems. Just do it as you see in the video. IIRC that is exactly what I did on the one I installed.
Click to expand...
okay I think I understand, seems to the mounting plate will be able to move up and down since there is 1/4" play, are you saying the thermal paste is what holds it in place, others than that nothing else can hold it tight agaon cpu
 
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Darkbreeze

Darkbreeze

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No, that's not what I'm saying.

What I'm saying is that when you attach the flat plate on the heatsink itself, to the mounting bracket (The square bracket that attaches to the backplate with the stand offs/pillar screws in between them) the heatsink is going to "suck" the slack up between the backplate and the motherboard because the contact point between the bottom of the flat plate ON the heatsink and the actual mounting bracket is slightly more than the amount of slack that exists before you attach those two pieces together. I don't know how to explain it any better than that.

Basically, when you screw attach the heatsink to the mounting bracket and tighten the screws, there won't BE any slack left, because the act of tightening those screws will pull the backplate up tight against the back of the motherboard. The pillar screws themselves, don't matter. They are not going to sit flush against the motherboard. The heatsink will be tight against the top of the CPU heat spreader (The part of the CPU where the thermal paste gets sandwiched between it and the bottom of the heatsink) and the back plate will be tight against the back of the motherboard.
 
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Darkbreeze

Darkbreeze

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The two screws. The bottom of the heatsink that attaches with two screws, to the two spots on the mounting bracket on each side. That has slack also. Once you install those two screws and tighten it down, there won't BE any slack remaining between the backplate and the motherboard because the bottom of the heatsink will push down against the top of the CPU and PULL the backplate up against the back of the motherboard. That is the best explanation I can offer.
 
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Darkbreeze

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Cool man. If you should so desire, you can take pics of the process or final build and post them in our members area. Obviously, not a requirement, just something that's out there if you want to do so.

Tom's Hardware Member System Gallery

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amacbabe

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Darkbreeze said:
Cool man. If you should so desire, you can take pics of the process or final build and post them in our members area. Obviously, not a requirement, just something that's out there if you want to do so.

Tom's Hardware Member System Gallery

Rules ■Tom's Hardware's ToU and RoC always applies. ■Everyone will respect everyone. Flames will not be tolerated at all in this thread. ■Please limit your gallery to 1 post (4 pictures and if more pictures are needed, please post a link). ■When commenting on a system gallery, please type the...
forums.tomshardware.com forums.tomshardware.com
Click to expand...
I am trying to connect the power switch wire t motherboard- which wire will be the positive, it has two wires a black and white- I am guessing it is the black because it would have the writing on the top the wires when plugged in
 
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Darkbreeze

Darkbreeze

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Get a magnifying glass. Practically all of the tiny plastic connectors on the end of case front panel connections say exactly what they are for and for power connections will usually have a tiny + or - on them as well.

In general, it probably doesn't even matter. It's just a switch to allow power to pass and trigger on the motherboard PowerOK signal to turn on the motherboard.
 
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amacbabe

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NICE- thanks- Looking over the additional fan that I purchased- Do you recommend I use it or return it? If it will help then I would keep it- What would be the best location to install too?
 
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Darkbreeze

Darkbreeze

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Yes, you want to use it. That was the whole point of recommending it, except, you got the one I initially recommended, not the one I recommended on page 2 of this thread when you said "would you change anything?".

Your case came with three fans preinstalled. Two in the front and one in the rear. Install the additional fan in the TOP-rear location, and make sure it is oriented as an exhaust which means the side of the fan with the braces that hold the fan motor will be facing towards the outside of the case and the fan blades will be facing into the case. There should also be arrows on the frame of the fan to indicate the direction of airflow and you want the arrows pointing out the top, not in.
 
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amacbabe

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I am connecting all the case fans including the cpu fan. can I run to all to the case pwm fan hub? or does the cpu fan need to run to dedicated place on mother board
 
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