[SOLVED] PC desktop for CAD system that can handle 3-d rendering

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amacbabe

Commendable
Mar 3, 2020
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I would like to build a new PC desktop- First time doing so.
Hoping for some advice to see if I off base- System will be used for CAD only with 3-d colored renderings- No gaming will be used for the sytem.
This is what I was thinking- hoping for some feedback-
Not sure if I am missing anything or some of the parts may not work together
thanks
- Intel Core i9-9900K Coffee Lake 8-Core, 16-Thread, 3.6 GHz (5.0 GHz Turbo) LGA 1151 (300 Series) 95W BX80684I99900K Desktop Processor Intel UHD Graphics 630

- GPU- Quaddro P2000 5GB Graphics

- ASUS Prime Z390-A/H10 Motherboard Bundled Intel Optane Memory H10 with Solid State Storage (32GB + 512GB) LGA1151 (Intel 8th and 9th Gen) ATX DDR4 DP HDMI M.2 USB 3.1 Gen2 Gigabit LAN

- CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3600 (PC4 28800) Intel XMP 2.0 Desktop Memory Model CMK32GX4M2D3600C18

-Fractal Design Meshify C Black ATX High-Airflow Compact Dark Tint Tempered Glass Window Mid Tower Computer Case

- Seagate IronWolf Pro ST4000NE001 4TB 7200 RPM 128MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive

- SAMSUNG 860 EVO Series 2.5" 500GB SATA III V-NAND 3-bit MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) MZ-76E500B/AM

-Fractal Design Celsius+ S24 Dynamic X2 PWM Black 240mm Silent Performance Slim Radiator AIO CPU Liquid/Water Cooler

- Microsoft Windows 10 Home - Full Retail Version (USB Flash Drive)

- GIGABYTE G32QC 32" 165Hz 1440P Curved Gaming Monitor, 2560 x 1440 VA 1500R Display, 1ms (MPRT) Response Time, 94% DCI-P3, VESA Display HDR400, FreeSync Premium Pro, G-Sync Compatible Ready, 1x Display Port 1.2, 2x HDMI 2.0, 2x USB 3.0
 
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Solution
First, congratulations on accomplishing your first full build. This was a rather advanced system and you weathered the bumps in the road amazingly well. Props.

I would check for driver updates every couple of months or so for the first year, and after that, only if there are problems. Most motherboards don't get many driver updates after the first year, even fewer after the second and practically none unless something is found that poses a security risk after the third, OR, if new hardware is released and it is NEEDED by way of BIOS or driver support in order to use it AND the system is still new enough to be worth using with said hardware so that the manufacturer actually gets enough feedback to goad them into providing it.

To be...
I was hoping you might be able to point me in the right direction for this one- Cord management and accessory management- I am attaching a picture of my current situation- I have a router that is connected to my cox cable that feeds to the modem in another room- from the router I have an ethernet switch that I have Arlo pro camera base connected to it and google mesh and external storage device base connected than lastly my computer- It is a mess and I was hoping you can point me in the right direction. I ultimately like to remove most he devices and out it in central out of the way place so it is not so messy
 
I don't see any pictures. Fortunately, I have your back on that one.


 
Nope, I'm sorry. I can't help you in that area man. I don't mess with any network or cable management related questions on the forum. Hands on, sure, I can get you fixed up (Not YOU, literally) but on the forum it has simply turned into too much of a nightmare in the past so I don't do it.

All I can say is, if you are unsure and if you need to run wire to multiple levels or rooms where it is not convenient to have cable running exposed along the floor or walls, call a technician in to do the runs for you. Sure, it's going to cost you a little money, but it is WELL worth it in saving yourself from headaches OR ending up with something that you are simply not happy with. Find a good installer technician, not through Craigslist and not some jughead in a beat to hell old 80's service vehicle that was recommended by a friend of a friend who MIGHT be able to do the job. A decent installer tech that will come in and do the runs and be gone the same day, maybe two days tops if they run into complications from structural issues, which is generally unlikely especially if there is basement or attic access, depending on how your house is configured. If it's an apartment, then none of this is probably even necessary.
 
Hey There- was reviewing the install of the CPU cooler you recommended, and it already has thermal paste on it- Should I use more?

Also, I was curious regarding windows 10 software- Can I buy a USB stick and install that way- Will that
 
Yes, you can install Windows via USB, either by downloading it and creating installation media on a USB thumb drive, or buying it on a USB thumb drive, or via optical disk. All are viable ways but most install via USB flash drive these days.

For the cooler, either way is fine. If it came from the factory with thermal interface material pre-installed, then you can just use it like that OR you can clean it off using isopropyl alcohol and apply your own preferred thermal past. I'd just leave it as is, but plan to clean it off and replace it if you should have to ever remove the heatsink OR in about two years, when the current thermal interface material will likely begin to start drying out.

I recommend either Thermal grizzly Kryonaut, Noctua NT-H1 or H2, or Arctic MX-4. The Kryonaut is the better paste IMO.
 
Thanks for your feedback.
I plan to purchase of the parts this week based on your recommendation- Would you change anything?
Also, would I need to purchase any accessories for a successful install?
 
Changed the case fan to a better Noctua model. Parts have come down a little bit in price too. Assuming you have a keyboard and mouse, you might also want to get a longer displayport cable because what comes with the monitor is very short.

I recommend this brand and whatever length you need. Excellent quality, unlike cheaper cables it does not have any problems.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HL7RSRW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($289.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright ARO-M14G 73.6 CFM CPU Cooler ($49.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI B450 GAMING PRO CARBON MAX WIFI ATX AM4 Motherboard ($159.99 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($139.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate BarraCuda 510 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($79.98 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate IronWolf NAS 6 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($159.99 @ Adorama)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB XC ULTRA GAMING Video Card ($549.99 @ Walmart)
Case: Fractal Design Meshify S2 ATX Mid Tower Case ($158.99 @ B&H)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($108.78 @ Other World Computing)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-A14 PWM chromax.black.swap 82.52 CFM 140 mm Fan ($24.90 @ Amazon)
Monitor: LG 32GK650F-B 32.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor ($349.00 @ B&H)
Total: $2201.58
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-08-25 17:20 EDT-0400
 
Thanks!! Looks like the DVD is way less than the USB Microsoft Windows 10- I have an external DVD player- will this work to load the operating system? When connecting the DVD player is a plug and play and the new system will automatically recognize it or do I need to do a=somthing else so windows will load from the external DVD player
 
Yes, external DVD will work, plus, you don't even HAVE to use that. You can just get the DVD which has the product key on it, then download the latest version of Windows 10 directly from Microsoft using their media creation tool and install from the USB installation media YOU create, and then use the product key on the DVD when it asks you for it.

Full instructions on creating media and installing windows can be found here:


Please, take the time to READ the whole guide, more than once if necessary, and the associated links, so that you are very familiar with the process and peripheral concerns such as associating your Windows license with a Microsoft account, before beginning the install.

You WILL most likely need to go into the BIOS and on the BOOT or EXIT screens you can find the option for a one time boot to a connected device of your choice, where you will select the DVD drive.
 
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had a question of what to load on my flash drive in addition to the windows 10 upload. this is for the MSI motherboard
I saw I should load a file from the motherboard manuf.? Which one should I put on a flash drive- or should I wait
https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/support/B450-GAMING-PRO-CARBON-MAX-WIFI#down-bios
Also what driver should I load onto my system from this site too
https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/support/B450-GAMING-PRO-CARBON-MAX-WIFI#down-driver
All 4 but the VGA drivers, you could also just use the disc for those.
I would not even think about updating the BIOS till after you completely have the pc up and running a general rule on that is their no reason to update the BIOS unless their a specific update that addresses a problem your having or says to improve performance. Till you get the PC built and enter BIOS you don't even know what version it already has.

For the fans I really don't think you even need to add any, the FD included fans are fairly good and low noise. The included ones should be all you need.

I bought some of these although their just 3 pin I can't hear them and their fairly high CFM.

EDIT no need to download the manual since you will have the book.

Things to save from the build Everything that you don't install in the PC I mean everything. I put everything in the box the case came in (all boxes packages for like ram, PSU and drives even the paperwork that comes with them). Go to the manufactures web sites and register the warranties. If you need to send say the board back for RMA later their going to need the box and everything that was originally included in the box. It's a good thing to keep everything you get.

EDIT AGAIN. I even give all that to a customer that I build a PC for!
 
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There shouldn't be ANYTHING on the flash drive for installing Windows except for Windows. Windows will wipe out everything during the creation of the installation media. You can download and install the latest drivers from the motherboard product page later, AFTER Windows installation is complete.
 
There shouldn't be ANYTHING on the flash drive for installing Windows except for Windows. Windows will wipe out everything during the creation of the installation media. You can download and install the latest drivers from the motherboard product page later, AFTER Windows installation is complete.
okay, started my build and running into a first problem, I am trying to install CPU cooler bracket to mother board.had to remove existing clips for clamp down style cooler. when screwing in the Am4 screw Piller to the backplate , they dont securely hold down the back plate. it does not hold the back plate tight against mother board
 
okay, started my build and running into a first problem, I am trying to install CPU cooler bracket to mother board.had to remove existing clips for clamp down style cooler. when screwing in the Am4 screw Piller to the backplate , they dont securely hold down the back plate. it does not hold the back plate tight against mother board
also what way should the cooler fan be positioned?
 
okay, started my build and running into a first problem, I am trying to install CPU cooler bracket to mother board.had to remove existing clips for clamp down style cooler. when screwing in the Am4 screw Piller to the backplate , they dont securely hold down the back plate. it does not hold the back plate tight against mother board
also when getting ready to install the m 2 SSD stick ino the slot the back side M2 shield of the cover has a film or plastic on it, I am thinking need to remove?
 
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