Question PC not responding when I try to turn it on

[shemsureshot]

My system:

Asus X570 Dark Hero
Ryzen 5950 CPU
2 x 32GB DDR4 3600mhz Corsair Vengeance Ram
Palit RTX 3090 GamingPro
Dark Power 12 1000w PSU
Phanteks P600s Case
Windows 10
LG CX 48” Oled Display (HDMI 2.1)

I tried turning on my PC today and there was no response when I pressed the power button. I could see the LED’s (power LED on the start button, not RGB lights) were on on my motherboard. It didn’t temporarily turn on then power down, it was completely unresponsive.
I checked the power cable was correctly inserted into the PC and power strip, which is was, and I also tried a different power cable and wall socket with with no result.
I opened my case and pressed the ”start button” which was lit up white on my motherboard, but there was still no response.
I removed my power supply and disconnected then reinserted all cables (including on the motherboard and GPU) and it still would not turn on.
I checked the PC cables were correctly fitted.
I have also removed the CMOS battery and put it back in but is is still not working.

Despite doing all the above the PC will just not turn on when using the case or motherboard power buttons.

I’m really stuck with this one because I can see from the motherboard lights there is power coming from the power supply but it Just won’t turn on.
Anyone know what to do?

Thanks.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Did you try plugging directly into the power outlet on the wall with NO power strip involved? If not, I would do so.

I would also unplug the wires coming from the case front panel to the motherboard and jump the pwr pins with a small flathead screwdriver to see if the problem is simply the switch.

https://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/2011-jumping-a-motherboard-without-power-switch-button

Check that the PSU comes on, and then test with volt meter.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ixcWCrYpw3Y

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ac7YMUcMjbw



If none of that helps, then I'd pull it all out of the case and begin testing with minimal hardware. Likely, this is a motherboard or power supply issue, but it could be anything really. Anything that might be shorted or otherwise triggering protections on the motherboard or power supply could have the same symptoms. Power supplies have multiple, exclusively different power rails in side so it is very common to have "power" in the form of LEDs, fans, Q-codes, debug lights or error beeps and yet not have a functional power supply. Are you getting any codes at all on the Q-code display or simply nothing? No fans or anything?

How To - Motherboard bench testing

Finding the problem through bench testing If you are here then it’s likely you have encountered a serious hardware issue and have been unable to resolve it using the standard no-POST troubleshooting procedures. If you have not yet attempted to resolve your issues using the no-POST...

forums.tomshardware.com

 

[shemsureshot]

Did you try plugging directly into the power outlet on the wall with NO power strip involved? If not, I would do so.

I would also unplug the wires coming from the case front panel to the motherboard and jump the pwr pins with a small flathead screwdriver to see if the problem is simply the switch.

https://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/2011-jumping-a-motherboard-without-power-switch-button

Check that the PSU comes on, and then test with volt meter.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ixcWCrYpw3Y

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ac7YMUcMjbw



If none of that helps, then I'd pull it all out of the case and begin testing with minimal hardware. Likely, this is a motherboard or power supply issue, but it could be anything really. Anything that might be shorted or otherwise triggering protections on the motherboard or power supply could have the same symptoms. Power supplies have multiple, exclusively different power rails in side so it is very common to have "power" in the form of LEDs, fans, Q-codes, debug lights or error beeps and yet not have a functional power supply. Are you getting any codes at all on the Q-code display or simply nothing? No fans or anything?

How To - Motherboard bench testing

Finding the problem through bench testing If you are here then it’s likely you have encountered a serious hardware issue and have been unable to resolve it using the standard no-POST troubleshooting procedures. If you have not yet attempted to resolve your issues using the no-POST...

forums.tomshardware.com

Thanks for the reply. I tried jumping it with the case connectors disconnected and unfortunately it still didn’t start. I couldn’t do the paper clip test because all the cables are black on the bequiet power supply cables and I don’t have a multimeter.

I did try powering it on with the GPU and RAM removed but it still didn’t come one. Other than the lights on the motherboard I don’t get anything else, no Q code, no fans (including the PSU fan) spinning and no powering up noises. Just the sound of me clicking the power buttons.

I took the PC into another room and tried directly connecting it to a power socket, and tried another power cord but is still wouldn’t switch on.

The only sign of any power is the start button lit up white and the green CMOS clear button on the back panel (these usually remain on when the system is shut down).

 

[shemsureshot]

I thought to show images of the motherboard lights that do come on. This is the only evidence of any power, everything else remains idle. Apologies for the low light.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Are you using any of the included "overclocking" hardware that came with the power supply to force it into acting like a single rail PSU? That includes a slot cover with switch that will allow you to go back and forth between single and multi-rail, and a jumper that allows you to do it jumper it into permanently being single rail so long as the jumper is installed. Or are you just using it in it's default multi-rail configuration? Might not matter but worth asking I suppose in case there is a problem with that which might be related.

Since you are not inclined to do the testing manually, my advice would be to either remove the PSU and take it to a shop that can test it for you, or buy a PSU tester yourself to see if it at least has basic functionality.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=PSU+tester&crid=3GVXWCBFCL3MK&sprefix=psu+tester,aps,131&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

 

[shemsureshot]

Are you using any of the included "overclocking" hardware that came with the power supply to force it into acting like a single rail PSU? That includes a slot cover with switch that will allow you to go back and forth between single and multi-rail, and a jumper that allows you to do it jumper it into permanently being single rail so long as the jumper is installed. Or are you just using it in it's default multi-rail configuration? Might not matter but worth asking I suppose in case there is a problem with that which might be related.

Since you are not inclined to do the testing manually, my advice would be to either remove the PSU and take it to a shop that can test it for you, or buy a PSU tester yourself to see if it at least has basic functionality.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=PSU+tester&crid=3GVXWCBFCL3MK&sprefix=psu+tester,aps,131&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

Thanks for getting back. I have the overclouding switch connected to the power supply but never used it. I have tried the switch and it makes no difference. I noticed the LED on the switch does not light up at all, which makes me think it is not receiving any power. This in itself could be a clue the power supply is not giving any juice, other than the minimum current you would expect when the PC is shut down.

I took your advice and the retailer I bought it from has agreed to take a look at it. I’ll update here with their findings.

 

[Darkbreeze]

 

[shemsureshot]

Thanks for your advice Darkbreeze. The retailer tested it and they confirmed the power supply is not powering up their PC either. Its unclear why this problem occurred.

They issued me with a full refund which I used to buy the Antec Signature Titanium 1000w and can confirm everything is running normally.

 

[Darkbreeze]

"Why" doesn't really matter. "IS" the problem, this is all that matters really unless there is an apparent reason why something else CAUSED the PSU to fail, and I'm going to assume there was not. So, likely, just the same as most situations which is, cheap PSU to begin with. Except that we KNOW that your specific model is NOT a cheap PSU. So, doesn't matter. Even a Corsair AX can be faulty. Even right out of the box. It is what it is and I'm glad you got it sorted out. Good luck to you man.