Question PC won't turn on ?

Jul 16, 2025
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i didn't use my pc for a day, and now it won't turn on (the PSU won't turn on). all lights were off in the case except the motherboard standby light. i made no changes to the system and it's been running in my current house/setup for 3 years just fine. here's what i've tried so far:

- assumed it was a bad motherboard, so replaced it but to no avail
- used an old cpu i had to make sure my current cpu didn't die (it didn't)
- paperclip test on PSU powered up all case fans, GPU lights, etc. (also tested voltage on every pin and it's all up to standard)
- tried running the system with one stick of ram, no storage, all possible combinations and no results
- also tried running it with no GPU (i have no integrated graphics so i'm not sure if it would even post)

my only hypothesis left is something's wrong with the PSU despite testing all the pins. could it be a short with the case? my PC case screws have shocked me very lightly before, but i didn't mess with it at all before it stopped working. i also run it floating since it's not grounded because of the adapters (again, it's been like this for 3 years with no changes before it stopped working, but i'm buying a proper power cable anyways).

any other possibilities? is the best way to check for shorts to just run it out of the case? i'll do that tomorrow.

if it helps any, here are the specs

motherboard: asus tuf a520m (originally the asrock b450m steel legend)
cpu: ryzen 5 3600x (also tested with ryzen 3 1200 AF)
gpu: rtx 2070 super
ram: 4x8 @ 3200 mhz ddr4
psu: 650w 80+ bronze cooler master
case: some random chinese case (can find the specific model if it's relevant)
 
Welcome to the forums, newcomer!

psu: 650w 80+ bronze cooler master
Coolermaster is the brand of the unit, while 650W and 80+ Bronze are the advertised wattage and 80+ efficiency rating, respectively. What is the model of the unit and it's age(3 years)?

paperclip test on PSU powered up all case fans, GPU lights, etc. (also tested voltage on every pin and it's all up to standard)
The paperclip method is a flawed test, it tells you the PSU runs but what it doesn't tell you is how much power the PSU can effectively output when taxed. You should source(borrow, not buy) a reliably built PSU with slightly higher wattage for your entire system to see if the issue is alleviated.

cpu: ryzen 5 3600x (also tested with ryzen 3 1200 AF)
https://www.asus.com/motherboards-c...helpdesk_cpu?model2Name=TUF-GAMING-A520M-PLUS
The Ryzen 3 1200 AF processor isn't supported by the motherboard, unless you're referring to having the Ryzen 3 processor on the B450 chipsetted motherboard with BIOS version P2.90...?

my PC case screws have shocked me very lightly before, but i didn't mess with it at all before it stopped working. i also run it floating since it's not grounded because of the adapters (again, it's been like this for 3 years with no changes before it stopped working, but i'm buying a proper power cable anyways).
You should call in a certified electrician and ask them to scope out the wiring as well as sort out any grounding issues. You're waiting to ruin all your PC parts with that grounding issue.
 
Welcome to the forums, newcomer!

psu: 650w 80+ bronze cooler master
Coolermaster is the brand of the unit, while 650W and 80+ Bronze are the advertised wattage and 80+ efficiency rating, respectively. What is the model of the unit and it's age(3 years)?

paperclip test on PSU powered up all case fans, GPU lights, etc. (also tested voltage on every pin and it's all up to standard)
The paperclip method is a flawed test, it tells you the PSU runs but what it doesn't tell you is how much power the PSU can effectively output when taxed. You should source(borrow, not buy) a reliably built PSU with slightly higher wattage for your entire system to see if the issue is alleviated.

cpu: ryzen 5 3600x (also tested with ryzen 3 1200 AF)
https://www.asus.com/motherboards-c...helpdesk_cpu?model2Name=TUF-GAMING-A520M-PLUS
The Ryzen 3 1200 AF processor isn't supported by the motherboard, unless you're referring to having the Ryzen 3 processor on the B450 chipsetted motherboard with BIOS version P2.90...?

my PC case screws have shocked me very lightly before, but i didn't mess with it at all before it stopped working. i also run it floating since it's not grounded because of the adapters (again, it's been like this for 3 years with no changes before it stopped working, but i'm buying a proper power cable anyways).
You should call in a certified electrician and ask them to scope out the wiring as well as sort out any grounding issues. You're waiting to ruin all your PC parts with that grounding issue.
hi, sorry for the delay.

- the model no. of the PSU is MPX-6501-AMAAB. i've had it for around five years.

- i don't really know anyone who would have a PSU to borrow me honestly, or a 3000 series AM4.

- i tested the ryzen 3 1200 on the b450m, but forgot to consider that since i've flashed the bios it likely no longer supports the chip in the first place.

- i've fixed the grounding issue and it's no longer a concern.

i've also mounted both boards outside of the case (to rule out any case shorts) and tested the 3600x on both of them. neither configuration worked. which would be more likely to be faulty, CPU or PSU? any further testing i can do without a borrowed PSU/CPU? i'll try to get my hands on both regardless. thanks.
 
This unit;
?
If so, it's got a 5 year warranty, which is around the time you're referring to = the PSU's probably on it's way out.

which would be more likely to be faulty, CPU or PSU?
You're asking me to point a finger at something and hoping the culprit is the one I'm pointing at. This is not going to get us anywhere.

I'll tell you a story;
I was part of a group of friends who were very much into tech. One of us decided to build a really high end system back in 2001, that cost him about $1,200. At first the system was everything we had hoped to build and game on but over time, one part after the other started dying. Across 5 years and multiple RMA's, the shop started denying RMA requests as they figured we were purposely ruining hardware for something newer. We later learned that the lack of a grounding in my friend's abode was what killed every part in the system. Yes we always got electrocuted when making contact with the metal part of the system while our bare feet were touching a tiled, non carpeted, non wooden floor. My assumption is that your parts were compromised with all the static electricity built up on your system over time.
 
This unit;
?
If so, it's got a 5 year warranty, which is around the time you're referring to = the PSU's probably on it's way out.

which would be more likely to be faulty, CPU or PSU?
You're asking me to point a finger at something and hoping the culprit is the one I'm pointing at. This is not going to get us anywhere.

I'll tell you a story;
I was part of a group of friends who were very much into tech. One of us decided to build a really high end system back in 2001, that cost him about $1,200. At first the system was everything we had hoped to build and game on but over time, one part after the other started dying. Across 5 years and multiple RMA's, the shop started denying RMA requests as they figured we were purposely ruining hardware for something newer. We later learned that the lack of a grounding in my friend's abode was what killed every part in the system. Yes we always got electrocuted when making contact with the metal part of the system while our bare feet were touching a tiled, non carpeted, non wooden floor. My assumption is that your parts were compromised with all the static electricity built up on your system over time.
yes, that unit.

i won't take any actions based on whatever you think it might be, i'm curious as to what's more likely (i figured that question would be welcome in a forum for computer enthusiasts?)

thanks regardless.
 
i won't take any actions based on whatever you think it might be, i'm curious as to what's more likely (i figured that question would be welcome in a forum for computer enthusiasts?)
The process is called troubleshooting and you'll need spare/replacement parts at hand to test out a theory.

Instead of buying parts in your troubleshooting process(coupled with the fact that you can't rely on your neighbor or friends), you might want to visit a local repair shop and see if they can narrow down the issue. If the issue is magically gone at their workbench without swapping out parts, then the only thing that's changed is the source of power(from the wall).
 
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