[SOLVED] Please help, my PC turns on then off...

[bamb00sm]

Hello all...

I just recently built a new PC and it has problem turning on and off RANDOMELY

I did some googling and read some threads including ones here, but they all seem to be about cases where it doesn't turn on at all.

For me, it's random and intermittent. about 4/5 times, it turns on, and once it's on, it runs totally fine, and doesn't turn off on its own.

I just don't understand why in that 1/5 times it turns on and then off. I'm scared that there's some malfunctioning parts or short in there somewhere that's going to roast my parts and make it non-functional......

I already tried cleaning the GPU and Memory(RAM) metal parts with an eraser, and tested my memory with memtest86 which showed no error after over 50 minutes, tried prime95 too, but I had to stop prematurely since I don't have enough cooler fans to keep the temperature under control.

I got so scared, I got a different PSU and it still has the problem....so less likely it's the PSU....

as puzzled and clueless as I am at this point, I'm wondering if there is anything wrong with either the way I assembled the parts, or something wrong with the case? especially the power switch and its cable?

Here's a video of what happens...sorry it's little dark and hard to see.

Memtest86 pic

https://imgur.com/uMR6mwO

View: https://imgur.com/uMR6mwO

View: https://youtu.be/ZxEaqFoFGWY

My spec is
CPU Ryzen 7 2700x
Mobo b450 Gigabyte Aorus Elite
Memory Samsung 21300 16gb
GPU MSI gtx 1660 Ventus XS (not ti)
SSD Samsung Evo 860 500g
PSU Seasonic Focus Gold 650W

I also noticed that when the turn off happens, the eagle picture on the mobo stays lit up like

View: https://youtu.be/4wj5RgH6ZAs
, not sure what that means

 

[Flouro Flibboflasm]

The video did appear to capture something. I have seen that very thing happen with other electronics. That's a(my) first for a case- but that sort of thing isn't impossible. Eventually we all see some crazy things eventually over time.

Have you tried assembling the components out of the case to be 100% sure that is it?- although it looks likely from the video...

Also, what made you think of pressing on that section of all places? Was there an object previously placed on it there? Were you bumping it?

I wonder because of it happening at about a 20% rate was there something physically happening to trigger it- and then lead to that highly unusual diagnosis?

EDIT: I reread the part about plugging in the game controller. If it happened 100% of the time it got plugged/unplugged that would have made it more obvious- hence the questions about objects on it, bumping it...

 

[DaSifa]

Hello all, I REALLY STRONGLY suspect the case to be the issue now even more, I had an interesting occurrence this morning, where the PC's BEEN on, and the same turn off happened the moment I plugged my videogaming arcade stick on my usb…..

then it tried to boot, and turn off when I put my hand on top of the case, and the same thing too when I switch USB ports too. Strange.

I really suspect either a short within the case near where the power switch is, or some loose cable or something

Here's a video of it.

View: https://youtu.be/c332t1Xq8gQ

notice at 10s and 19s, and 42 I put my hand on top of the case, I DIDN'T press the power button. at 29s I switched USB cable. It turned on normally and I'm posting on the PC after I pressed the power button.

As i suggested a few days ago...rebuild outside the case.

 

[Flouro Flibboflasm]

As i suggested a few days ago...rebuild outside the case.

Until this thread I had completely forgotten seeing people put heavy objects on electronics, use them as footrests...

The OP seemed to isolate this one when plugging in a game controller- but a couple of posts up I asked if this was happening at other times to trigger his 20% reboot rate since initially it appeared random- not from (un)plugging USB devices.

 

[hmazuji]

Troubleshooting starts now.

look in the manual for a header for the motherboard speaker. i might be called "pizo". find one online for about $3.50
i second that you're going to have to take your system apart and put it back one piece at a time. this is your first priority
then, after you finish assembly, update or flash your motherboard firmware and video card firmware and motherboard and video card drivers

 

[bamb00sm]

The video did appear to capture something. I have seen that very thing happen with other electronics. That's a(my) first for a case- but that sort of thing isn't impossible. Eventually we all see some crazy things eventually over time.

Have you tried assembling the components out of the case to be 100% sure that is it?- although it looks likely from the video...

Also, what made you think of pressing on that section of all places? Was there an object previously placed on it there? Were you bumping it?

I wonder because of it happening at about a 20% rate was there something physically happening to trigger it- and then lead to that highly unusual diagnosis?

EDIT: I reread the part about plugging in the game controller. If it happened 100% of the time it got plugged/unplugged that would have made it more obvious- hence the questions about objects on it, bumping it...

many are suggesting to do it outside the case, but the problem is the fact that the turning on/off problem happens very randomely, I've gone up to like 3 days with it not happen, sometimes twice in one day, so maybe if I try turning it on 3-5 times adding a part each time, I might have passed just by chance, and get a "'false negative", and not find out which component was causing trouble.

It would be more effective if my issue was not turning on at all, rather than randomely.

 

[bamb00sm]

As i suggested a few days ago...rebuild outside the case.

as I stated above, since you had same suggestion,

the problem is the fact that the turning on/off problem happens very randomely, I've gone up to like 3 days with it not happen, sometimes twice in one day, so maybe if I try turning it on 3-5 times adding a part each time, I might have passed just by chance, and get a "'false negative", and not find out which component was causing trouble.

It would be more effective if my issue was not turning on at all, rather than randomely.

 

[bamb00sm]

look in the manual for a header for the motherboard speaker. i might be called "pizo". find one online for about $3.50
i second that you're going to have to take your system apart and put it back one piece at a time. this is your first priority
then, after you finish assembly, update or flash your motherboard firmware and video card firmware and motherboard and video card drivers

If I understand correctly, looks like the 'speak' pins are next to the power switch, above the power led pins in the front panel header. If I just buy any motherboard buzzer/speaker stuff, it should work? regardless of price or brand?

are they good at picking up pretty much any mobo issue? valid enough to say that if this passes, it's definitely not mobo related?

 

[Bilunapozuhajdo]

It is the ram slot or the ram, The ram slot is probably in bad conditions and has to be repaired or the ram has to be changed to slot 2.

 

[cat1092]

After you follow all of the steps given above, to include a Malware scan using first Adwcleaner (right click & run as Administrator) then clean anything found, it's a fast scan. Then install Malwarebytes (free version, 14 day Premium Trial) & after updating, run a full (Custom) scan. Be sure to check the option to scan for rootkits.

Also, when removing the hardware from the computer for testing, did you remove and reseat the CPU? Sometimes these may not be seated perfectly & cause memory errors. As others has mentioned, it's best to build the PC on top of it's box when there's errors that can't be otherwise found & by that, this will mean removing & reinstalling every component, one by one. I always assemble as much of the PC as I can to the MB before install, as it's often much easier & quicker to complete once in the case.

Speaking of the case, be sure that all standoffs are fully tightened, a loose one may cause a short.

If this and none of the suggestions by others yields positive results, you likely have a bad RAM slot & should RMA the motherboard. Being you just built the PC, hopefully you're still within the return period & they'll swap for another. If you purchased with a credit card, and the retailer gives the run around, call the card issuer & file a dispute. You paid for a new MB, if you RMA directly to the OEM, will likely get a recertified (used) replacement, not the one you currently have.

It's also a good idea to check compatibility for both MB & RAM before purchase, there's a site dedicated to this purpose.

System Builder

pcpartpicker.com

In the early goings there was the question of static. Trust me, I know from first hand mistake. During the course of cleaning & reinstalling of a CPU heatsink with fresh thermal paste, I shorted out the main RAM slot of a notebook & there was no spark, nothing was seen nor felt, after install, it would hang at the boot screen. So as a test, not knowing what had yet happened yet, removed the single removable 8GB stick, leaving only the soldered in 4GB module & it booted. Multiple attempts to install the 8GB stick (& the 4GB one before that upgrade) were futile, to include a guitar pick trick found on YouTube. I knew right there & then that I screwed up in the process. Was used to externally removable batteries, didn't think to unplug the internally installed one after removing cover.

So out of over 250 computers rebuilt or repaired, to include several I built for myself, didn't have myself grounded when either removing or replacing the heatsink, or cleaning the CPU. I got caught with my pants down, was accustomed to constantly keeping touch with the metal case of a PC & should had used my wrist strap with the notebook. Lesson learned, fortunately all I had tied up in the notebook was that 8GB RAM module, the notebook was given to me for work performed. Once the RAM slot is bad, there's no way for the home user, nor most shops, to fix it. I strongly advise you to have a wrist strap, these are minimal in cost ($5-6) & can save you thousands in repairs when not in warranty. Now I make sure to use one whenever working inside of a PC, regardless of task.

Being the single stick of RAM works in one slot but not the other (the closest to the CPU is usually recommended for a single stick) is a clue that the slot may be bad. While there's always the possibility of incompatible RAM, if the system booted in the 2nd slot, should also in the 1st.

At any rate, I hope you get this solved before your window of a RMA to the retailer is closed, if not already. Most gives 30 days, although some may give 14 days or a DOA only one. In your case, you may qualify for DOA, all of the RAM slots are supposed to be working. Don't tell the retailer any more than is asked, if asked were you were grounded while handling the components, say yes. Other than the case of bent pins, the burden of proof is on your side. Be sure to record the serial number of the MB before returning (if necessary) & be sure to check the one received to ensure they don't send the same one back.

Am not trying to write a book here, these are simply a sample of the things you need to know if not experienced. My learning was via the University of Hard Knocks, beginning in 2007 because I didn't have $200 for a HDD replacement. I had seen where locals were sitting computers by the curb during recycle days, so picked up two notebooks that were the same model as mine. The XP Pro reinstall & driver CD's were taped to each, so they likely figured someone would put these to use. Then became interested in learning, so picked up more, fixed & gave to family, friends, neighbors. Before I knew it, people were bringing more for me to repair, some I was able to, others not. Yet most did get repaired, thanks to all of the assistance I received on these tech forums.

Good Luck!

Cat

 

[hftvhftv]

Surprised no one suggested simply resetting the CMOS by either pressing the CMOS reset button or removing and replacing the motherboard battery.

 

[bamb00sm]

It is the ram slot or the ram, The ram slot is probably in bad conditions and has to be repaired or the ram has to be changed to slot 2.

I already switched ram slot before, and that doesn't seem to be just a bad ram slot

 

[bamb00sm]

After you follow all of the steps given above, to include a Malware scan using first Adwcleaner (right click & run as Administrator) then clean anything found, it's a fast scan. Then install Malwarebytes (free version, 14 day Premium Trial) & after updating, run a full (Custom) scan. Be sure to check the option to scan for rootkits.

Also, when removing the hardware from the computer for testing, did you remove and reseat the CPU? Sometimes these may not be seated perfectly & cause memory errors. As others has mentioned, it's best to build the PC on top of it's box when there's errors that can't be otherwise found & by that, this will mean removing & reinstalling every component, one by one. I always assemble as much of the PC as I can to the MB before install, as it's often much easier & quicker to complete once in the case.

Speaking of the case, be sure that all standoffs are fully tightened, a loose one may cause a short.

If this and none of the suggestions by others yields positive results, you likely have a bad RAM slot & should RMA the motherboard. Being you just built the PC, hopefully you're still within the return period & they'll swap for another. If you purchased with a credit card, and the retailer gives the run around, call the card issuer & file a dispute. You paid for a new MB, if you RMA directly to the OEM, will likely get a recertified (used) replacement, not the one you currently have.

It's also a good idea to check compatibility for both MB & RAM before purchase, there's a site dedicated to this purpose.

System Builder

pcpartpicker.com

In the early goings there was the question of static. Trust me, I know from first hand mistake. During the course of cleaning & reinstalling of a CPU heatsink with fresh thermal paste, I shorted out the main RAM slot of a notebook & there was no spark, nothing was seen nor felt, after install, it would hang at the boot screen. So as a test, not knowing what had yet happened yet, removed the single removable 8GB stick, leaving only the soldered in 4GB module & it booted. Multiple attempts to install the 8GB stick (& the 4GB one before that upgrade) were futile, to include a guitar pick trick found on YouTube. I knew right there & then that I screwed up in the process. Was used to externally removable batteries, didn't think to unplug the internally installed one after removing cover.

So out of over 250 computers rebuilt or repaired, to include several I built for myself, didn't have myself grounded when either removing or replacing the heatsink, or cleaning the CPU. I got caught with my pants down, was accustomed to constantly keeping touch with the metal case of a PC & should had used my wrist strap with the notebook. Lesson learned, fortunately all I had tied up in the notebook was that 8GB RAM module, the notebook was given to me for work performed. Once the RAM slot is bad, there's no way for the home user, nor most shops, to fix it. I strongly advise you to have a wrist strap, these are minimal in cost ($5-6) & can save you thousands in repairs when not in warranty. Now I make sure to use one whenever working inside of a PC, regardless of task.

Being the single stick of RAM works in one slot but not the other (the closest to the CPU is usually recommended for a single stick) is a clue that the slot may be bad. While there's always the possibility of incompatible RAM, if the system booted in the 2nd slot, should also in the 1st.

At any rate, I hope you get this solved before your window of a RMA to the retailer is closed, if not already. Most gives 30 days, although some may give 14 days or a DOA only one. In your case, you may qualify for DOA, all of the RAM slots are supposed to be working. Don't tell the retailer any more than is asked, if asked were you were grounded while handling the components, say yes. Other than the case of bent pins, the burden of proof is on your side. Be sure to record the serial number of the MB before returning (if necessary) & be sure to check the one received to ensure they don't send the same one back.

Am not trying to write a book here, these are simply a sample of the things you need to know if not experienced. My learning was via the University of Hard Knocks, beginning in 2007 because I didn't have $200 for a HDD replacement. I had seen where locals were sitting computers by the curb during recycle days, so picked up two notebooks that were the same model as mine. The XP Pro reinstall & driver CD's were taped to each, so they likely figured someone would put these to use. Then became interested in learning, so picked up more, fixed & gave to family, friends, neighbors. Before I knew it, people were bringing more for me to repair, some I was able to, others not. Yet most did get repaired, thanks to all of the assistance I received on these tech forums.

Good Luck!

Cat

I am too afraid to remove and re seat the CPU on the mobo, since I've read that lot of times the CPU pins are accidently bent when you do so, unless you have good skill...I just don't trust myself with it, especially since I've bent pins before....

 

[bamb00sm]

Surprised no one suggested simply resetting the CMOS by either pressing the CMOS reset button or removing and replacing the motherboard battery.

I already did that one, many have suggested it

 

[dominic77659]

Hello all...

I just recently built a new PC and it has problem turning on and off RANDOMELY

I did some googling and read some threads including ones here, but they all seem to be about cases where it doesn't turn on at all.

For me, it's random and intermittent. about 4/5 times, it turns on, and once it's on, it runs totally fine, and doesn't turn off on its own.

I just don't understand why in that 1/5 times it turns on and then off. I'm scared that there's some malfunctioning parts or short in there somewhere that's going to roast my parts and make it non-functional......

I already tried cleaning the GPU and Memory(RAM) metal parts with an eraser, and tested my memory with memtest86 which showed no error after over 50 minutes, tried prime95 too, but I had to stop prematurely since I don't have enough cooler fans to keep the temperature under control.

I got so scared, I got a different PSU and it still has the problem....so less likely it's the PSU....

as puzzled and clueless as I am at this point, I'm wondering if there is anything wrong with either the way I assembled the parts, or something wrong with the case? especially the power switch and its cable?

Here's a video of what happens...sorry it's little dark and hard to see.

Memtest86 pic

https://imgur.com/uMR6mwO

View: https://imgur.com/uMR6mwO

View: https://youtu.be/ZxEaqFoFGWY

My spec is
CPU Ryzen 7 2700x
Mobo b450 Gigabyte Aorus Elite
Memory Samsung 21300 16gb
GPU MSI gtx 1660 Ventus XS (not ti)
SSD Samsung Evo 860 500g
PSU Seasonic Focus Gold 650W

I also noticed that when the turn off happens, the eagle picture on the mobo stays lit up like

View: https://youtu.be/4wj5RgH6ZAs
, not sure what that means

does the system use cable management if so dry run with a diffrent power supply if it dosent and you can remove the panels that touch the cable try booting also try removeing any mechanical drives trying it on and shakeing it lightly cause your cpu or mother broad cable may be damaged

your power supply does have weaker cables due to the covering if your fans shake the system if could have been damaged

 

[ThCTLo]

Your psu is suffering from "ripple" in the power supplie, which cases instability.
i've seen 3 cases now, damn hard to find it.
I suggest get a new psu. for example https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/best-psus,4229.html

with my first pc havings simular symptons, it took me 6 months to pass the computer back to a shop and it took them 3 months and almost all parts where switch or tested by manufactur, all except m2 ssd and case.

In the end the guy in the shop took an old psu from his own pc and problem solved.
For any gaming pc these days i advice a good well tested psu, 80+ gold minimal, only some budget psu's in the gold ranges show ripples also.

Google : psu gaming ripple review, that will give you more insight.

 

[DaSifa]

Do you have a UPS ? If you do run the power from the UPS rather...if there is a issue in the wiring of the house or wall plug the UPS will take this away....see how that work for you.

 

[bamb00sm]

does the system use cable management if so dry run with a diffrent power supply if it dosent and you can remove the panels that touch the cable try booting also try removeing any mechanical drives trying it on and shakeing it lightly cause your cpu or mother broad cable may be damaged

your power supply does have weaker cables due to the covering if your fans shake the system if could have been damaged

I already changed my power supply from EVGA 500w 80+ to Seasonic Focus Plus 650W , still same symptom.

 

[bamb00sm]

Your psu is suffering from "ripple" in the power supplie, which cases instability.
i've seen 3 cases now, damn hard to find it.
I suggest get a new psu. for example https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/best-psus,4229.html

with my first pc havings simular symptons, it took me 6 months to pass the computer back to a shop and it took them 3 months and almost all parts where switch or tested by manufactur, all except m2 ssd and case.

In the end the guy in the shop took an old psu from his own pc and problem solved.
For any gaming pc these days i advice a good well tested psu, 80+ gold minimal, only some budget psu's in the gold ranges show ripples also.

Google : psu gaming ripple review, that will give you more insight.

I already changed my power supply from EVGA 500w 80+ to Seasonic Focus Plus 650W , still same symptom. not sure how the case-psu compatibility issue works.

 

[bamb00sm]

Do you have a UPS ? If you do run the power from the UPS rather...if there is a issue in the wiring of the house or wall plug the UPS will take this away....see how that work for you.

Unfortunately, I don't have one. My previous build didn't have this problem though...

 

[reaper12474]

Judging from the last vid I don't understand a lot of these comments. pushing down on top of the case causing it to turn off is not a bad power supply. That seems more like a bad connection. As previously suggested, pulling it out of the case and setting it up outside the case is the only way to remove the case as the issue. I suspect it is a bad connection with the power switch.

 

[reaper12474]

If your unsure how to do that. I would suggest to watch some vids by Pauls Hardware on youtube. Or if you prefer Bitwit, or Jayz2cents.

 

[bamb00sm]

Judging from the last vid I don't understand a lot of these comments. pushing down on top of the case causing it to turn off is not a bad power supply. That seems more like a bad connection. As previously suggested, pulling it out of the case and setting it up outside the case is the only way to remove the case as the issue. I suspect it is a bad connection with the power switch.

I am suspecting bad connection of some sort, especially with the power cable from the power switch. However to remove the case and test will very likely result in a false negative, since it boots fine most of the time even with a case.

 

[ThCTLo]

I already changed my power supply from EVGA 500w 80+ to Seasonic Focus Plus 650W , still same symptom. not sure how the case-psu compatibility issue works.

look here : https://www.guru3d.com/news-story/s...us-plus-psu-has-gpu-compatibility-issues.html
Maybe the trick there works for you.

And the other psu : https://www.overclock.net/forum/31-...ou-should-not-buy-evga-400-600-500b-600b.html

Both PSU's your using suffer, i suggest sell both buy a good one.

Mobo b450 Gigabyte Aorus Elite
Memory Samsung 21300 16gb
Have you check the ram compatibility with the manboard.


Upgrade bios, the mainboard should be fine, i used these myself in 2 setups.
In both of them i needed to change the psu to a better one.

 

[bamb00sm]

look here : https://www.guru3d.com/news-story/s...us-plus-psu-has-gpu-compatibility-issues.html
Maybe the trick there works for you.

And the other psu : https://www.overclock.net/forum/31-...ou-should-not-buy-evga-400-600-500b-600b.html

Both PSU's your using suffer, i suggest sell both buy a good one.

Mobo b450 Gigabyte Aorus Elite
Memory Samsung 21300 16gb
Have you check the ram compatibility with the manboard.


Upgrade bios, the mainboard should be fine, i used these myself in 2 setups.
In both of them i needed to change the psu to a better one.

the article from guru3d doesn't show that the Seasonic Focus has issue with 970, not 1660.

did updating bios fix the problem for you, not sure if you had the same issue....

 

[DaSifa]

Unplug all cables, cards etc. Only leave power supply connected, CPU and RAM. Boot into bios. Leave it for a short time and see if it powers down. Push down on the case aswell. See if it powers down.