Question POE CAT6 Tests OK Yet No Camera Connectivity

[BlaineB]

Good afternoon,

I installed a Reolink 6 security camera system on an 8 channel 2TB NVR about 13 months ago in June of 2021. The system was installed for about 1 full year and everything worked flawlessly. I used my own FastCat CAT6 solid core ethernet cable for the installation, and up until 2 or 3 weeks ago haven't had an issue.

In June of 2022 one of my cameras I noticed had no signal. If I unplugged the camera from my NVR, I could get it to resume functionality, although this didn't last for good. Connectivity from the camera could range from anywhere from a few minutes to a few hours. So, since my system had a 24 month warranty, I took advantage of that and Reolink shipped me a replacement camera.

I get the camera and promptly install it. Everything seemed ok, but once again less than 2.5 hours after installation I once again lost camera feed. I unplugged the camera and could not re-establish a connection.

So I had both cameras, I used short leads and tested them right in my basement and connected them directly to the NVR. Both the OLD camera and the NEW camera function.

I had a cheap ethernet continuity tester that has the blinking LED light, continuity checked out OK. So I purchased a more advanced ethernet tester with POE testing functionality and I tried this as well.

One again continuity checks out good with the new ethernet tester, but I'm showing some odd stuff for the POE test. Can you make any sense of what is going on? According to the manual, there are no shorts because if there were, I would be seeing a different display on the continuity test if so!

I am attaching some pictures showing the LCD display of the new tool. When in POE testing mode, the ethernet cable is plugged into the NVR and my device on the camera end. When it continuity testing mode, the device and a receiver are connected to the ethernet cable without having the NVR connected at all.

Continuity test

POE test

 

[bill001g]

poe is a messy topic.

The standards are things like 802.3af and 802.3at and a couple more. These have rules as to what pins run what voltages and there are rules about what is supported mid span or endspan. You are going to have to read one of the wikis, I forget these things when I do not have to remember them for silly certification tests. Pretty much there is type a and type b pinout for power.

The next problems is many camera systems are proprietary poe.....many time to force you to buy everything from the camera vendor. It being 48+ volt it tends to be 802.3a lower voltages tend to be passive systems because you won't fry equipment like 48volts can.

So your problem may just be the meter is looking for signals that meet the standards and the nvr is not actually putting out power that follows the 802.3a rules. If the vendor says your cameras can be powered by other device like a switch then it should exactly follow the standards.

 

[Ralston18]

Were you able to test both the original camera and the replacement camera in different NVR ports?

 

[BlaineB]

Were you able to test both the original camera and the replacement camera in different NVR ports?

Yes, I tried a variety of other ports as well, it made no difference at all. Thanks for the reply.

 

[BlaineB]

poe is a messy topic.

The standards are things like 802.3af and 802.3at and a couple more. These have rules as to what pins run what voltages and there are rules about what is supported mid span or endspan. You are going to have to read one of the wikis, I forget these things when I do not have to remember them for silly certification tests. Pretty much there is type a and type b pinout for power.

The next problems is many camera systems are proprietary poe.....many time to force you to buy everything from the camera vendor. It being 48+ volt it tends to be 802.3a lower voltages tend to be passive systems because you won't fry equipment like 48volts can.

So your problem may just be the meter is looking for signals that meet the standards and the nvr is not actually putting out power that follows the 802.3a rules. If the vendor says your cameras can be powered by other device like a switch then it should exactly follow the standards.

I understand. I am not using any powered or unpowered switches in-between the Reolink NVR and the cameras. It's strictly the FastCat CAT6 cable and that is all. I have a total of 6 cameras on this system that were all functional for a full 12 months until this one camera began giving me trouble in late June 2022.

 

[USAFRet]

For reference, I have 2x ReoLink RLC-423 PoE cameras (soon to be 3x) running from this switch, since Oct 2020:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076HZFY3F

With this cable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08F9SXK7G

Recording directly to my NAS.

 

[BlaineB]

For reference, I have 2x ReoLink RLC-423 PoE cameras (soon to be 3x) running from this switch, since Oct 2020:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076HZFY3F

With this cable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08F9SXK7G

Recording directly to my NAS.

I am using this for the 6 cameras as well as a variety of devices within my home as well. Haven't had an issue with any other device or computer or television or gaming console.

https://www.amazon.com/fastCat-Cat6...1657228732&sprefix=fastcat+cat6,aps,87&sr=8-3

 

[BlaineB]

Here's something else I recalled - when the camera was installed on the home and connected to the NVR but not producing a signal, obviously the ethernet connectivity light for that port on the rear of the NVR would not be flashing. But I could hear a quiet, yet audible high pitched whine coming from the NVR so as long as that particular camera was plugged in. It didn't matter which port I used, as soon as the camera's corresponding CAT6 cable was disconnected, the whine would cease.

To the suggestion of someone else I spoke with, I DID snip off the ethernet plug outside, cut the wire back about 6", and crimped on a new plug. This didn't change anything, as I was receiving proper continuity with the old plug as well, but it was a recommended task regardless.

 

[bill001g]

Have you tried swapping your cameras around to see if the problem moves with them.... I realize that would likely be painful since it would mix the video up to do it permanently.

The cables seldom go bad after they have been running and if you have reterminated them that is how you would fix them. Can you power the camera with a non poe source again temporarily. That way you would know the camera should have good power and any issue would be a communication issue or some strange software issue with the camera.

 

[BlaineB]

Have you tried swapping your cameras around to see if the problem moves with them.... I realize that would likely be painful since it would mix the video up to do it permanently.

The cables seldom go bad after they have been running and if you have reterminated them that is how you would fix them. Can you power the camera with a non poe source again temporarily. That way you would know the camera should have good power and any issue would be a communication issue or some strange software issue with the camera.

I still have both cameras - the "old" one I miscalculated as being defective, and the new one from Reolink. They're bugging me to return the old one but I'm delaying. I've connected them both directly to the NVR in my basement with a ~5' patch cable and both cables run flawlessly indoors!

 

[BlaineB]

Any thoughts on what might be going on here, and is this the correct forum to be posting a problem such as this one in?

 

[kanewolf]

I still have both cameras - the "old" one I miscalculated as being defective, and the new one from Reolink. They're bugging me to return the old one but I'm delaying. I've connected them both directly to the NVR in my basement with a ~5' patch cable and both cables run flawlessly indoors!

Since you are terminating your own cable, and you have a low priced tester (not a certifier), It has to be your terminations. The cameras work fine on a short patch, but don't work on your terminated bulk cable.

 

[BlaineB]

Since you are terminating your own cable, and you have a low priced tester (not a certifier), It has to be your terminations. The cameras work fine on a short patch, but don't work on your terminated bulk cable.

What would be the issue with my terminations? I re-terminated the outside connection already. In fact in my home I have 14 other connections including the 12 connections for my cameras alone, and a relative of mine has the same camera system which I crimped all 12 of their connections as well, their system has been running flawlessly for about 7 months longer than my installation.

I'm not understanding what could be wrong with my terminations considering the test equipment shows continuity and proper voltage on the appropriate pins as well.

I also wasn't going to buy $1000.00 test equipment for my DIY, unless you're local and want to stop by with your equipment.

 

[kanewolf]

What would be the issue with my terminations? I re-terminated the outside connection already. In fact in my home I have 14 other connections including the 12 connections for my cameras alone, and a relative of mine has the same camera system which I crimped all 12 of their connections as well, their system has been running flawlessly for about 7 months longer than my installation.

I'm not understanding what could be wrong with my terminations considering the test equipment shows continuity and proper voltage on the appropriate pins as well.

I also wasn't going to buy $1000.00 test equipment for my DIY, unless you're local and want to stop by with your equipment.

I don't know what is wrong with them. But you change the cable and it works. Switch back and it doesn't.
You could try using a standalone POE injector to see if it prevents voltage drop.

 

[BlaineB]

I don't know what is wrong with them. But you change the cable and it works. Switch back and it doesn't.
You could try using a standalone POE injector to see if it prevents voltage drop.

I was thinking about a POE injector as this particular camera is the LONGEST RUN of any camera on my system. Although to the contrary it functioned flawlessly for a solid 12 months so I am confused why it would become an issue now. Do you have any recommendations for a decent POE injector that can be used with an NVR that already has a POE output, that can't be disabled (it's not a switch with functionality like that for disabling the POE for a specific ethernet port.)

 

[kanewolf]

I was thinking about a POE injector as this particular camera is the LONGEST RUN of any camera on my system. Although to the contrary it functioned flawlessly for a solid 12 months so I am confused why it would become an issue now. Do you have any recommendations for a decent POE injector that can be used with an NVR that already has a POE output, that can't be disabled (it's not a switch with functionality like that for disabling the POE for a specific ethernet port.)

Maybe you have corrosion on the 8 pins of the camera ethernet port. That would introduce resistance. If you had marginal voltage on day 1, then corrosion on the contacts could cause it to fail.

 

[BlaineB]

Maybe you have corrosion on the 8 pins of the camera ethernet port. That would introduce resistance. If you had marginal voltage on day 1, then corrosion on the contacts could cause it to fail.

To rule that theory out I did snip back about 6" and installed a new plug. Also the connection is within Reolink's weatherproof enclosure as well, but I re-terminated regardless just to be sure. I did this last week.

 

[kanewolf]

To rule that theory out I did snip back about 6" and installed a new plug. Also the connection is within Reolink's weatherproof enclosure as well, but I re-terminated regardless just to be sure. I did this last week.

You should closely examine the port on the camera and maybe run a fingernail file or emery cloth on the 8 fingers. Weatherproof enclosures aren't always perfect. Dirt or corrosion is all that is required.
Here is a cleaning guide -- https://www.getscw.com/downloads/manuals/RJ-45-Corrosion.pdf

 

[BlaineB]

You should closely examine the port on the camera and maybe run a fingernail file or emery cloth on the 8 fingers. Weatherproof enclosures aren't always perfect. Dirt or corrosion is all that is required.
Here is a cleaning guide -- https://www.getscw.com/downloads/manuals/RJ-45-Corrosion.pdf

Thank you for the reply. I do have 2 cameras here as I still haven't shipped the "old" camera back to Reolink yet. One of the cameras is brand new and has a brand new cable, and both cameras do not function at all when hooked up outside of my home.

 

[BlaineB]

I received my POE injector in the mail the other day. Before attempting to supply power through it to my Camera, I first decided to run some tests with my meter.

For a baseline, I connected my meter in-between one of the other five working cameras and the NVR. Mind you I did this test in my basement a mere inches from the Reolink NVR, not on the exterior of the home where the other five cameras are mounted.

For a baseline, the Reolink NVR is putting out 49 volts at 11.5 Watts to power the camera, and POE is being supplied on ins 1, 2, 3, and 6.

I also tested the POE injector with no load on it. It's rated for 48 volts at 24 watts, however according to my meter, is putting out 53 volts at 5.0 watts with no load (no camera) connected. It is also supplying POE on pins 4, 5, 7, and 8.

Before I go a step further and connect my camera at the other end of the run, is this POE injector even safe to use, considering that it is putting out POE on entirely different pins than the Reolink NVR???? Also, why is it only putting out 5.0 watts? Is this because there is no load at the time of my testing or do you think this POE injector is pure crap?

 

[bill001g]

Can you chnage the mode. One is called A and the other B. I forget without looking them up but one is 1236 and the other 4578.
Not sure about the 5 watts normally you go not get a actual power rating unless something is consuming the power. Devices are allowed to consume less than the poe injector provides. Could it be the meter only requesting 5watts of power. The voltage will drop a bit when something consumes power and reads high with no load on it.

 

[BlaineB]

Alright I am on my roof now.

I have the Reolink POE NVR connected to the LAN port on my POE injector, and the POE port on the POE injector connected to the CAT6 cable that runs to this camera in particular. I haven't connected the camera yet, only my POE testing meter. I'm seeing 70 VOLTS and 0.0 watts on this CAT6 cable. Is it somehow COMBINING the voltage coming from the NVR and the POE injector??? I have not yet connected my camera out of fear of toasting it!!

 

[bill001g]

What happens if you take a voltage meter and test it.

802.3af/at is a active protocol it should not provide power unless a device asks for it. It provides a small amount somehow for poe devices to boot so it is not really 100% active. Been years since I looked into the details but it is designed to not damage a devices that does not support poe. BUT you have to be very sure the equipment you are using is 802.3 based poe there are many other forms that provide passive power all the time. Most are 24volts or less to avoid the damaging equipment issue.

 

[BlaineB]

What happens if you take a voltage meter and test it.

802.3af/at is a active protocol it should not provide power unless a device asks for it. It provides a small amount somehow for poe devices to boot so it is not really 100% active. Been years since I looked into the details but it is designed to not damage a devices that does not support poe. BUT you have to be very sure the equipment you are using is 802.3 based poe there are many other forms that provide passive power all the time. Most are 24volts or less to avoid the damaging equipment issue.

The POE injector I purchased is most likely a passive injector. I am going to return it just to be safe. I ordered an Ubiquiti GP-V480-032G so I can try that out next week. As far as I am aware the Ubiquiti is not passive, although I could be wrong. I've used this exact Ubiquiti POE injector before to power my Father's Ubiquiti access point in his home. Obviously it's a high quality item and even has a grounded power plug, hah!

Anyway, for S&G's I connected my camera directly to the NVR once again (avoiding use of the cheap POE injector) and it powers up! According to my POE tester hooked in-line with the camera, I am seeing 48 volts with 3.5-4.0 watts.

Perhaps this run of CAT6 is a bit lengthy and there really is an intermittent power issue, which is why I am hoping to add power.

I took this a step further and installed the POE injector but do NOT have it connected to the Reolink NVR at all, and then have my POE tester and camera hooked up at the exterior of the home. The camera powers on as I can hear the camera click (although I do not see video as nothing is connected to the Reolink NVR) and the meter displays 52 volts at 10 watts, somewhat higher than just using the Reolink NVR alone. Perhaps a lack of power really is to blame!?!?

And to test with NO camera, like I said, if I run the cheap POE injector in-line with the Reolink NVR, I see 70 volts at 0.0 (zero point zero) watts on the exterior of my home, with NO camera. However if I connect my meter directly to the POE injector in my basement with a 5" (five inch) cable, I see 55 volts at 5.5 watts.

I'm wary to plug my camera in when I am reading 70 volts. I don't want to kill yet another camera that Reolink just RMA'd for me mistakenly as it is. I'm also not sure why I'd be seeing 55 volts in my basement and then add hundreds of feet of CAT6 and somehow that voltage increases 15 volts from 55 to 70? Confusing...

All in all it appears that this is NOT a cable connectivity issue but perhaps being the camera with the furthest run it does have an intermittent power problem, which I am glad for I suppose. I understand that I can simply use a POE repeater but that would require splitting the run of CAT6 and would make it much harder to conceal on the exterior of my home by doing so. Ideally I'd LOVE to be able to do something at either end of the entire run of CAT6 rather than in the middle, which is why the thought of a POE injector came to mind.

 

[bill001g]

ubiquiti sells both kinds unfortunately. They are really good about specs and technical information so its just a matter of reading all the fine print.

Power is a messy thing when you have big chucks of wire in the path. I forget what the expected voltage is on a 100meter cable but there is a planned voltage drop which is why it starts at 48 volts. What makes this more complex is it is the actual current...ie the watts being used...that causes the voltage drop. A higher amount of current will cause more voltage reduction. Its been years since I was required to memorize all this stuff for certification tests I can only provide general guidance you are going to have to dig through the wiki stuff for details.

You can put a poe "booster" in the middle of a cable. microtik sells a small switch that takes poe in and then provides poe out to a end device...there is some watt limitation though. I know someone buired one of these in a water proof box in his yard to get more than 100 meters of poe cable. I don't think he ever came back and told how well it worked.