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Thanks for providing formatted information. :trophy: Your temps are proportional, but ~5 to 7c on the warm side, relative to ambient and hardware. My impression is that your computer case ventilation could be improved.

Comp 8)
 
Hmm, Not sure I understood that, the case is colder than the room and the room temp is 19C in everest the GPU Ambient is 29C would this be considered Ambient temprature?

Looks like theres much more i have to learn

EDIT; Just seen your edit so does this mean my temps are normal? high? should I go down a step or two? I'm going to start lowering the voltage see how low I can go.
Click to expand...

Viceras, understand that "Tcase" means the "CPU Case" or "die", and not "computer case". It is not possible for any part of your computer to be below room temp, which means "Ambient" temp. If you read the Guide, it defines Ambient = Room Temp.

Your Vcore and settings are fine. Your temps are not too warm, all your temps are fine, they just indicate too cold. I don't know what else I can say to help you, except keep re-reading the Guide until you understand. Then simply follow my recommendations and adjust your offsets, so all 3 of your CPU temp sensor and Core temp sensors will indicate accurately in SpeedFan 4.32. 😀

Comp 8)
 
Thanks for providing formatted information. :trophy: Your temps are proportional, but ~5 to 7c on the warm side, relative to ambient and hardware. My impression is that your computer case ventilation could be improved.

Comp 8)
Click to expand...

Well, I've got an Antec 900 case with all cables to the side and tied down good. Only thing I could think of would be a poorly seated heat sink. I will try to reseat tomorrow.

Any comment on the Geil vs Arctic Silver? Would it be worth it to get some AS?

Thanks,
TyShoe
 
Look in the Guide, there are links at the bottom for Shin-Etsu X23...far superior to AS5.

Edit: Just looked at your temps again, and your Delta exceeds spec, which means Idle to load should not exceed 25c. This is typical of a concave heat spreader, and / or a poorly seated CPU cooler. Sorry I missed that..getting tired.

Comp 8)
 
I have the same case and its very hard indeed not to have a good airflow this case is awesome if only a little on the loud side. I'd recommend getting an Arctic freezer pro 7 and use the pre applied paste; As the problem is clearly (from what you've said) a badly seated Heat Sink.

Comp; Thanks for all the info I think i'll get searching for an accurate Vista sensor and retest with your adjustments to speedfan, I understand it now that i've had some sleep 😉

Thanks again.
 
If you look at my profile you will see a P5N-E SLI running the E4300 at 3.15. I am pushing this thing at 1.5 vcore and with water cooling and am Orthos stable at 8 hours nver going over about 47C at an ambient temp of 21C. But I have to push the voltage high and I cannot get beyond 1.5 stable. I can boot into Windows all the way up to 3.3Ghz. Any ideas / recommendations? I have seen many posts in the 3.4 -3.6 range. Or is this the end and I just got a poor overclocker? Could this be an FSB problem? I have removed the chipset cooler replaced the stock paste with AC5 and put a good fan on the chipset, it is topping out max at about 52C.
 
thought i would post my E4300 oc'ing results for ref.

E4300 3.55Ghz 9x395 @1.525V 15C idle / 40C load
GA-965P-S3 F8
OCZ 2x512 Plat. DDR2 6400 (4-5-4-15)
Antec TrueBlue 480w
X1800GTO
Zalman and other custom parts for WaterCooling

I run stable 3.55Ghz. I can benchmark upto 3.59Ghz, but after playing FEAR for 30 minutes it shuts down.......i haven't tried this mod for the fsb, and i don't think i will....for the $110 i paid for the cpu its just fine at 3.55Ghz....i am amazed at how many E6300 and even some E6600's i beat in benchmarks....

3.59Ghz seems to be my "wall" anything past that i can't post....i am too affraid to raise my voltages much higher then 1.55 and when i did that i still wouldn't post at 3.6Ghz.....oh well...

the only problem with oc'ing so high is that i have no room for ocing my ram now......i use 2.0x for my ram and if i goto 2.5x (the next step up) then my ram sit way to high to run stable...

edit:: i should say that i oc threw the bios...when i tried to use gigabytes oc utility it would not oc past 2.5Ghz....never really liked gigabytes utilities...
 
hi everyone.. today my new rig was ready and i started to oc it just a little bit as people with my same s3 were able to reach 3.0 ghz with no troubles, so i upped the fsb to 333, with stock vcore 1.325 and ram to auto, letting everything else to default.

It reebooted with no problems, but once i am in windows cpu-z says the cpu is running with 259 fsb @2.35 ghz, with a strange 1.27 vcore even if the bios' fsb is still set to 333..

can anyone help me? as my last oc experience was on a celeron 300a(still working @525mhz) im not exactly up to date right now, lol!

anyway this cpu is VERY fast and my temps are around 32°c at idle, i had no time to run orthos for much, so i still don't know temperature at full load, i 'll tell u tomorrow

gigabyte s3 f8
2x512 ddr2 667 ocz
e4300
7600gt
dvd/r samsung
maxtor 320 gb
 
Sorry but I don't believe your idle temps..... 59F? What are you using to cool it?

You must have gotten a good chip to hit 3.6. Nicely done, be glad you can't control CPU VTT, it caused my E4300 to pop. :?
 
i dont know about why it reads your fsb diff. after start up....make sure your multi is set to 9x and not auto...as far as CPUZ and the voltage it reads, i have the same issue and most other people using our setup do as well...not sure why it wont read certain voltages right...

if you start to shut down or not goto post, i would lower your RAM speeds....


EDIT:: in reply to superfly..... i use a freezer to chill the coolant....in the winter i am able to keep the temps lower (15c) without moisture building up...and in the summer i can keep it around 20c without build up of anykind....i can go much much cooler if i wanted, but not really much of a point to and i dont want to get my rig all wet... 😀
 
zerxez, there are no CPU's 100% identical. There are nearly 300,000 transistors in a C2D, and every silicon nano-circuit has slightly different basic properties of electronics such as resistance, capacitance, inductance, impedance, and transconductance. Although two consecutive serial number CPU's from the same fabrication, with the same stepping codes, may appear identical, they're yielded from different location on the silicon wafer from which they're manufactured, and like diamonds, each has it's own unique flaws.

Even though their dynamic operational characteristics may be very similar, no two CPU's will overclock to exactly the same stable maximum speed, at the same voltage, at same temperature. Additionally, in a dual core processor, one core will always become unstable before the other. Your particular E4300 simply may not be "clean" enough silicon to reach 3.3Ghz. That's just the luck of the overclocking draw.

Hope this helps,

Comp 8)
 
COMP,
Just wanted to thank you again for your help the other night. I haven't reseated my heatsink yet, cause I ordered some Shin-Etsu X23. I'll wait until that arrives...

You mentioned that the high Delta can be caused by either an poorly seated heatsink or a concave heatspreader. If the latter, is there anything you can do about that, or is it a "luck of the draw" that comes with overclocking?

Thanks,
TyShoe
 
Have you disabled all options in Advanced Bios settings? Such as 1EST TM2 C1E etc... (i think the acronyms are right? but you know what I mean) With the new C2D chips they can automate the multiplier as the comp needs in your case from X6 - X9.

And make sure you download the new F10 Bios! :twisted:

EDIT; I just noticed that I can't set my (G)MCH to +3 it wont boot, it boots fine at +2 but not +3 anyone else having this trouble with this board?
 
thx viceras now im working so i can't try it immediately, anyway after a bios upgrade i will and i'll tell u if you are right (i think you are because i made no changes in the advanced menu).

this makes me wonder something: will my cpu still scale down to 1.2 ghz disabling all this settings when it's at idle? or will it keep going to its max?
 
With those settings enabled the CPU will scale down to 1.2GHz whilst idling yes, I think that'll fix your problem and also allow you to overclock. Also make sure you set (G)MCH to +1 before attempting an OC.

Good luck.

EDIT; Amongst other things the F10 Bios fixed the memory leak some people we're experiecing make sure you get the right bios for the right version of MB i.e. I have the DS3 Rev2 so I got the DS3 Rev2 bios Download it and install with the @Bios utility and you're golden :twisted:
 
My E4300 OC has been quite a learning expience for me. It's my first build and first OC. I've learned more since I got it working that I did getting there. I've got the FSB at 333, running at 2988 MHz. I had the Advanced bios set up right, but it took me forever to figure out the volts. I now have DDR2 +.2, FSB +.1 and (G)MCH +.1.

My GPU is my limiting factor at the moment, so I bumped it up some too. I went from the XFX already OC of 525 to 575 core clock and the mem clock from 1550 to 1600. I have some screen shots but since I'm such a Newbie, they won't let me post pictures, but I can give you pointers.

My prime95 was done before the GPU OC, the other screens after.

Prime95
Test ended
3DMark06
3DMark05
TAT

Request feedback on my temps. How can I measure the GPU temp under load? It runs 55C idle, according to NVidia control panel. One other question, at first I disabled smart fan, but decided to leave it enabled. Any preference?

Quick edit: My ambient temp is 27-28C.
 
So I ordered up all my components last night and ran by the local CompUSA that is going out of business to get the rest of the stuff. I should have everything probably by Monday/Tuesday. 8)

What kind of OC do you think I can get with this rig?

MB: EVGA 122-CK-NF68-A1 LGA 775 NVIDIA nForce 680i SLI ATX
CPU: Intel Core 2 Duo E4300 Allendale 1.8GHz LGA 775
RAM: G.SKILL 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400)
HD: Western Digital Raptor WD1500ADFD 150GB 10,000 RPM Serial ATA150
GPU: EVGA 640-P2-N825-AR GeForce 8800GTS 640MB GDDR3 PCI Express x16 SUPERCLOCKED
Sound Card: HDCP Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi XtremeGamer 7.1 Channels PCI Interface
Optical Drive: SAMSUNG 18X DVD±R DVD Burner With 12X DVD-RAM Write, LightScribe SATA
Case: Antec Nine Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower
PSU: Antec True Power Trio TP3-650 650W
CPU Cooler: ZALMAN 9700 LED 110mm 2 Ball CPU Cooler
OS: Microsoft Windows XP Pro SP2b 1pk w/Upgrade Coupon for Vista
 
My E4300 OC has been quite a learning expience for me. It's my first build and first OC. I've learned more since I got it working that I did getting there. I've got the FSB at 333, running at 2988 MHz. I had the Advanced bios set up right, but it took me forever to figure out the volts. I now have DDR2 +.2, FSB +.1 and (G)MCH +.1.

My GPU is my limiting factor at the moment, so I bumped it up some too. I went from the XFX already OC of 525 to 575 core clock and the mem clock from 1550 to 1600. I have some screen shots but since I'm such a Newbie, they won't let me post pictures, but I can give you pointers.

My prime95 was done before the GPU OC, the other screens after.

Prime95
Test ended
3DMark06
3DMark05
TAT

Request feedback on my temps. How can I measure the GPU temp under load? It runs 55C idle, according to NVidia control panel. One other question, at first I disabled smart fan, but decided to leave it enabled. Any preference?

Quick edit: My ambient temp is 27-28C.
Click to expand...

I had a higher score in 3D Mark 2005 score with a
lesser

AMD 3800+ Overclocked to 2.7 with only 512kb L2 Cache ..
ABIT KN8SLI
1GB Kingston DDR 400 Memory
ATI 1950Pro

I returned the video card and sold the rest of the computer parts for $100.00 bucks ..


Very interesting score ..
 
i had a quick question about OCing. i read in a guide that that tells me to set my cpu freq to 333 (multiplier@9 stock) and then i set my syst mem freq to 2.0 so the ram is 667 if i was going for 3.0ghz. if i have ram thats rated ddr2 800, would i be better suited to set my multiplier to 8 and my cpu freq to 400 with my syst mem freq to 2.0 so its 400x2 = 800? i'm a bit confused on how people figure this out.
 
You can do that, but be advised that then you'd be running the processor at 400 x 9 = 3600. There are other things you will have to do (better cooling, higher voltages, etc.) to achieve that overclock.

If you want to run your RAM at 1:1 on a 400 FSB, you can then change your processor multiplier down to 7 (for 2.8GHz), or 8 (for 3.2GHz) depending on how fast you want to go and what your processor/mobo will handle.

If only there were a 7.5 CPU multi, it would be a perfect 3.0GHz at 1:1 RAM...

-TyShoe
 
If you want to run your RAM at 1:1 on a 400 FSB, you can then change your processor multiplier down to 7 (for 2.8GHz), or 8 (for 3.2GHz) depending on how fast you want to go and what your processor/mobo will handle.
-TyShoe
Click to expand...

yeah, the 8x400 is what i was thinking but is there an advantage to running the ram at 800 likes its rated or running it at 667 for the even 9x333. the ram i have is this, ddr2 800 (4-4-4-12).also is there a way to figure the vcore w/o testing it? or is it just trial and error to see what runs stable?
 
It's basically trial and error. And you may want to raise your FSB speed gradually, testing along the way. Raise it another 10MHZ, then run TAT and check your temps, rum Memtest86 to make sure you're still stable, etc. Then raise another 10MHz if you're still OK.

Once you determine that your hardware will handle 400MHz FSB, then try a benchmark at 7x400 800RAM -vs- 9x666RAM and see for yourself which one is faster.

-TyShoe
 
Got mine @ 3.0 with stock voltage. All was good for 3 weeks now until I connected USB devises on the rear ports of my ds3 (FW F10) no issues using front USB. Now every time I boot up with rear USB connections my pc has difficulty booting. Sometimes it will not boot at all and other times it will boot and disable my OC settings reversing my cpu back to stock 1.8
 
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