Question Problem with my GTX 1080 Ti - - - or is it something else ?

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Miki248

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Yes.


It doesn't matter in which order you unplug and replug the cables.

But for me, i've found it easier to connect all required cables to the PSU 1st and then route each and every one to the proper place where they need to go.


It ONLY works when PSU is plugged to the mains. But since one of your tasks is replacing PSU, where you have to remove the main power cable between PSU and wall outlet, you can't ground yourself by just touching any metal part of the PSU (or PC case in that matter), since there is no ground connection.

All one needs to know about ESD and PCs + plethora of info about ESD, is all seen/heard here:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m54ifTCgtN4


I suggest you watch it. Steve has made very informative video about ESD.

I bought these gloves as well.

https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/dp/B00AXTVONU?psc=1&smid=AN1VRQENFRJN5&ref_=chk_typ_inl_img

I hope that this protection would be good enough. It seems that wireless wristbands are scam so I bought the ones with the cable. I'm not exactly sure where should I attach the cable, it seems that it should be connected to the metal part of the pc case according to the Internet.
Just in case, I won't wear socks and will not stand on the carpet, I hope that this is enough....

Btw, my new graphics card just arrived and there is nothing but the main unit inside. I presume that the cables that I need to use are the ones that are included with the new PSU along with the same cable that connects to the monitor.
 

Miki248

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If even this is not enough do I need some kind of anti static protection coverall?
I don't have central heating or pipes, the only thing I have is an aircon so I don't think I have anything similar that you mentioned. Also, there is a risk that I might forget to touch it every 15 minutes.
Moreover, I don't know if my clothes are all made of cotton or not (highly unlikely probably). I just want to achieve this with no risk and easiest possible way. I definitely owe you coffee at least once I successfully fix the issue.
 

Aeacus

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I'm not exactly sure where should I attach the cable
Onto any metal part that is grounded. E.g water pipes, central heating system.

it seems that it should be connected to the metal part of the pc case according to the Internet.
It doesn't help you, since as soon as you remove the PSU from the PC case, PC case isn't grounded anymore.
Also, as soon as you remove the PSU power cable that goes to the wall socket, then the PSU isn't grounded anymore either.
Hence to find another source for ground point.

Btw, my new graphics card just arrived and there is nothing but the main unit inside. I presume that the cables that I need to use are the ones that are included with the new PSU along with the same cable that connects to the monitor.
GPU power cable is included with PSU.

f even this is not enough do I need some kind of anti static protection coverall?
No. There's no need to cover yourself fully. The ESD wrist band with ground point wire and it being connected to ground point is enough.

I don't have central heating or pipes, the only thing I have is an aircon so I don't think I have anything similar that you mentioned.
Well, i don't know the household appliances you have. Well, connecting the wrist band ground point to the washing machine metal part or fridge's metal part would also suffice, since these two are connected to the electrical grid and are grounded as well. Microwave too, if it is connected to the wall socket. Any appliance that has metal casing and is connected to the wall outlet will do.

Also, there is a risk that I might forget to touch it every 15 minutes.
15 mins is more like an average. E.g when i work with my hardware, i make few pauses every once-in-a-while (e.g get a tea from kitchen). But before putting my hands back on the sensitive PC electronics, i'll ground myself.

Moreover, I don't know if my clothes are all made of cotton or not (highly unlikely probably).
Clothes have tags on them, telling the composition of materials. But if unsure about certain clothing item, you can remove it.

I definitely owe you coffee at least once I successfully fix the issue.
:sol:
 
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Miki248

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Onto any metal part that is grounded. E.g water pipes, central heating system.


It doesn't help you, since as soon as you remove the PSU from the PC case, PC case isn't grounded anymore.
Also, as soon as you remove the PSU power cable that goes to the wall socket, then the PSU isn't grounded anymore either.
Hence to find another source for ground point.


GPU power cable is included with PSU.


No. There's no need to cover yourself fully. The ESD wrist band with ground point wire and it being connected to ground point is enough.


Well, i don't know the household appliances you have. Well, connecting the wrist band ground point to the washing machine metal part or fridge's metal part would also suffice, since these two are connected to the electrical grid and are grounded as well. Microwave too, if it is connected to the wall socket. Any appliance that has metal casing and is connected to the wall outlet will do.


15 mins is more like an average. E.g when i work with my hardware, i make few pauses every once-in-a-while (e.g get a tea from kitchen). But before putting my hands back on the sensitive PC electronics, i'll ground myself.


Clothes have tags on them, telling the composition of materials. But if unsure about certain clothing item, you can remove it.


:sol:

So none of the stuff that I bought as a precaution will not work if I'm not properly grounded. Whoever made PSUs work like that really like to mess with people' lives.

Jokes on the side, this is the stuff that I have: oil heater, toaster and a microwave.

https://ibb.co/5jSKpnp
https://ibb.co/JQ7JHWq
https://ibb.co/2y7QGgz
https://ibb.co/SvJ692M

I also uploaded the pics of my pc if you might have an advice about it.
If these applianced would work for connecting with the wristband, could you please mark the possible connecting spots and send me the screenshots with marked spots?

Now, if I connect successfully I do not need to worry about what clothes I'm wearing as long as I'm barefooted and not on the carpet, correct? Would that be enough?
I know that dry air can cause static electricity as well but I really don't want to spend additional money on air humidifiers, ground carpets and whatelsenot.

Also, I live in Japan (not Japanese) so the voltage/electrical output is different, I don't know if this would affect anything?
 
Water cooled 1080ti changes why you can't look at the card how I suggested with the flash light. Being as the GTX 1080ti came out in 2017 after your squared away with your power supply replacement if it's still acting up I wouldn't trust a 8 year old water cooler system that's on the GPU.

Not saying it's bad just long past needing to be checked and or replaced.
 
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Miki248

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Water cooled 1080ti changes why you can't look at the card how I suggested with the flash light. Being as the GTX 1080ti came out in 2017 after your squared away with your power supply replacement if it's still acting up I wouldn't trust a 8 year old water cooler system that's on the GPU.

Not saying it's bad just long past needing to be checked and or replaced.

Yes, I did what you told me and I could see clearly.
If I have to replace that as well for a lot of money and even more then it might be better to buy a whole new used PC which I can't afford for...

Or should I just go ahead and replace the GPU as well? RTX 3060 is slightly better in performance than the 1080Ti but the latter one is still considered as the best GPU that Nvidia ever made.

Edit: I did however noticed that when I opened the case and used an Air Duster the PC recognized the GPU and the sound and worked normal for half an hour but got odd again as soon as I tried to benchmark test it. Just my presumption but it is highly likely that the GPU is fine but something else is preventing it from being fine.

Edit of Edit: I also checked the sensors and temperature with hwinfo64 and the results were fine.
 
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Aeacus

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If these applianced would work for connecting with the wristband, could you please mark the possible connecting spots and send me the screenshots with marked spots?
Well, i don't need to image edit. The 5th pic you shared, the top part of the heating radiator. It has venting holes at the top area, where you could clip the wrist band clip and plug the heating radiator into the mains. You don't need to turn the radiator on, just plugging the power cable to the mains would suffice.

Also, radiator is on wheels and it seems to have long enough power cord, so you can move it closer to your working area.

Now, if I connect successfully I do not need to worry about what clothes I'm wearing as long as I'm barefooted and not on the carpet, correct? Would that be enough?
Yes and it would be enough.

Also, I live in Japan (not Japanese) so the voltage/electrical output is different, I don't know if this would affect anything?
ESD is universal. And grounding wire (or neutral wire) in outlets is universal too. Only diff that Japan has, compared to the rest of the world, is 100V from the mains. In USA, it is 120V at the mains while most of the world has it 240V. E.g i live in Europe (Estonia) and i'm getting 240V from the wall.

Or should I just go ahead and replace the GPU as well? RTX 3060 is slightly better in performance than the 1080Ti but the latter one is still considered as the best GPU that Nvidia ever made.
GTX 1080 Ti is actually better than RTX 3060,
comparison: https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GTX-1080-Ti-vs-Nvidia-RTX-3060/3918vs4105

But to replace the GPU, you need to screw the AIO rad from the back end of the case, since there's tubing going to the GPU and you can't just "pop out" the GPU easily, as you could with air cooled GPU.

Water cooled GPUs are actually quite rare. Also, those cost a lot more than their air cooled counterparts. And AIO as such, lasts for 3-5 years or so. So, when your GPU AIO gives up a ghost, your GPU has no cooling what-so-ever.

Edit: I did however noticed that when I opened the case and used an Air Duster the PC recognized the GPU and the sound and worked normal for half an hour but got odd again as soon as I tried to benchmark test it. Just my presumption but it is highly likely that the GPU is fine but something else is preventing it from being fine.
Could be loose connection between GPU and PCI-E x16 slot. Or could be PSU ripple issue. As i said, your FSP PSU has high ripple issues.
Ripple represents the AC fluctuations (periodic) and noise (random) found in the DC rails of PSUs. Ripple significantly decreases the life span of capacitors because it increases their temperature; a 10 °C increase can cut into a capacitor's life span by up to 50 percent. Ripple also plays a vital role in overall system stability, especially when it is overclocked.
 
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Miki248

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Well, i don't need to image edit. The 5th pic you shared, the top part of the heating radiator. It has venting holes at the top area, where you could clip the wrist band clip and plug the heating radiator into the mains. You don't need to turn the radiator on, just plugging the power cable to the mains would suffice.

Also, radiator is on wheels and it seems to have long enough power cord, so you can move it closer to your working area.


Yes and it would be enough.


ESD is universal. And grounding wire (or neutral wire) in outlets is universal too. Only diff that Japan has, compared to the rest of the world, is 100V from the mains. In USA, it is 120V at the mains while most of the world has it 240V. E.g i live in Europe (Estonia) and i'm getting 240V from the wall.


GTX 1080 Ti is actually better than RTX 3060,
comparison: https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GTX-1080-Ti-vs-Nvidia-RTX-3060/3918vs4105

But to replace the GPU, you need to screw the AIO rad from the back end of the case, since there's tubing going to the GPU and you can't just "pop out" the GPU easily, as you could with air cooled GPU.

Water cooled GPUs are actually quite rare. Also, those cost a lot more than their air cooled counterparts. And AIO as such, lasts for 3-5 years or so. So, when your GPU AIO gives up a ghost, your GPU has no cooling what-so-ever.


Could be loose connection between GPU and PCI-E x16 slot. Or could be PSU ripple issue. As i said, your FSP PSU has high ripple issues.

Oh dear, I guess the situation is getting more and more complicated...

Anyway, I should just proceed with PSU replacement for now to see if that is going to solve the problem? And if it doesn't I would need a different tutorial for how to replace the GPU? The replacement process of PSU is not changed regardless of air or water cooling?
 

Aeacus

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I should just proceed with PSU replacement for now to see if that is going to solve the problem?
Yes.

And if it doesn't I would need a different tutorial for how to replace the GPU?
Technically, no.

GPU itself is latched to the PCI-E x16 slot and you need to press the latch open. Then, unscrew the two screws on PCI bracket and GPU itself is free. But since you have AIO cooling on GPU, you need to unscrew the 4x screws holding the rad + fan in place, so you can remove all of it as one unit.

The replacement process of PSU is not changed regardless of air or water cooling?
No, it is not.
 
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Miki248

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Yes.


Technically, no.

GPU itself is latched to the PCI-E x16 slot and you need to press the latch open. Then, unscrew the two screws on PCI bracket and GPU itself is free. But since you have AIO cooling on GPU, you need to unscrew the 4x screws holding the rad + fan in place, so you can remove all of it as one unit.


No, it is not.

Well, I guess I just wasted my money on buying the RTX 3060 then and should have checked the benchmark site. I literally bought a downgrade then lol

Thank you, just in case I'll send a screenshot to confirm if the wristband connection is correct before I venture myself into this risky task.
 
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Miki248

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Yes.


Technically, no.

GPU itself is latched to the PCI-E x16 slot and you need to press the latch open. Then, unscrew the two screws on PCI bracket and GPU itself is free. But since you have AIO cooling on GPU, you need to unscrew the 4x screws holding the rad + fan in place, so you can remove all of it as one unit.


No, it is not.

Ok, so I finally got everything ready and will probably try to do it this weekend.
Here are the pics of how I was thinking about using the anti static gloves and wristband.

https://ibb.co/kMGtM6Y
https://ibb.co/wJFm4Kp

These were the only two spots that I was able to connect firmly. Are either of these two spots appropriate? Do I need to wear two wristbands on each hand or just one on the left hand will suffice? Can I use both hands during the replacement or just the that has wristband on? I just have to plug in the heater's cord, no need to actually turn it on?
 

JeffreyP55

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I have this serious issue with my PC.
Sometimes the PC crashes at the very beginning when MSI loading screen appears. And sometimes it randomly crashes after some time while casually using the computer such as browsing the web, playing games etc. In the second case usually numerous pixels appear on the screen, it freezes and crashes.

I think that the issue is the Display adapter or graphic card itself, because when I go to the Device Manager and choose Display adapters there is an exclamation mark on my NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti, and when I choose properties on it, there is a message saying "Device status: Windows has stopped this device because it has reported problems. (Code 43). Recently, I can't even play games and also there is no sound output anymore.

I tried everything I could think of. The voltage or PSU has no issues, it has more than enough capacity. Even windows clean reinstall didn't help.

I did the clean uninstall of drivers with DDU in safe mode with no Internet connection and did a clean install of latest nvidia drivers. After I did this it worked, the sound was back and the graphic card was recognized. However, as soon as I tried to test it with Heaven Benchmark it worked only for about 30 seconds, afterwards pc went frozen, changed to black screen, and restarted Windows. Afterwards, same issue: no sound, gpu is not recognized and can't even start the heaven benchmark test.

Here are my PC specs:
- Processor AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 8-Core Processor GHz
- 16 GB RAM
- Windows 11 Pro 64-bit OS
- ACPI x64-based PC
- MSI MS-7B78
- NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti

Is the problem with the graphic card only or something else? Should I just buy a new graphic card and be able to solve the problem?

Thank you.

I have this serious issue with my PC.
Sometimes the PC crashes at the very beginning when MSI loading screen appears. And sometimes it randomly crashes after some time while casually using the computer such as browsing the web, playing games etc. In the second case usually numerous pixels appear on the screen, it freezes and crashes.

I think that the issue is the Display adapter or graphic card itself, because when I go to the Device Manager and choose Display adapters there is an exclamation mark on my NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti, and when I choose properties on it, there is a message saying "Device status: Windows has stopped this device because it has reported problems. (Code 43). Recently, I can't even play games and also there is no sound output anymore.

I tried everything I could think of. The voltage or PSU has no issues, it has more than enough capacity. Even windows clean reinstall didn't help.

I did the clean uninstall of drivers with DDU in safe mode with no Internet connection and did a clean install of latest nvidia drivers. After I did this it worked, the sound was back and the graphic card was recognized. However, as soon as I tried to test it with Heaven Benchmark it worked only for about 30 seconds, afterwards pc went frozen, changed to black screen, and restarted Windows. Afterwards, same issue: no sound, gpu is not recognized and can't even start the heaven benchmark test.

Here are my PC specs:
- Processor AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 8-Core Processor GHz
- 16 GB RAM
- Windows 11 Pro 64-bit OS
- ACPI x64-based PC
- MSI MS-7B78
- NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti

Is the problem with the graphic card only or something else? Should I just buy a new graphic card and be able to solve the problem?

Thank you.
1080ti is eight years old. Your CPU, almost six years old. Bought mine in 2017. Still works great in my backup PC, for now. However, I don't expect miracles from an old Gigabyte X97, 4790K and 32gigs of DDR3. Maybe it is time for you to upgrade?
 
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I do not wish to upgrade anything as long as there isn't any necessity except to make it work properly. I just need a PC to work properly. The only reason for changing the parts now is due to the malfunction.
Speaking of 1080Ti, I've noticed that there are tons of different makers/models of it, which one would be the best except the first edition ones?
 

JeffreyP55

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I do not wish to upgrade anything as long as there isn't any necessity except to make it work properly. I just need a PC to work properly. The only reason for changing the parts now is due to the malfunction.
Speaking of 1080Ti, I've noticed that there are tons of different makers/models of it, which one would be the best except the first edition ones?
I have an Asus 1080ti. Wish we didn't have to pay MS a $30.00 win 10 support after 08/25. I may use it for Linux duty. Tried many distros for at least 20 years. Linux still still doesn't excite me. I have no practical use for it. The old dog makes a great HTPC rig.
 

Aeacus

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Well, I guess I just wasted my money
I wouldn't say money is wasted. Since when your GTX 1080 Ti does have a fault, having a dedicated GPU that is 80% performance of GTX 1080 Ti, is better, than no GPU what-so-ever, 0%, without being able to use your PC at all.

Here are the pics of how I was thinking about using the anti static gloves and wristband.
Looks good.
Don't forget to connect the heating radiator power cable to the wall. Else-ways, there is no ground connection.

Do I need to wear two wristbands on each hand or just one on the left hand will suffice?
One hand will suffice.

Can I use both hands during the replacement or just the that has wristband on?
Both hands.

I just have to plug in the heater's cord, no need to actually turn it on?
Yes. Since once the power cord is plugged in, it instantly connects the heating radiator to the ground.

Speaking of 1080Ti, I've noticed that there are tons of different makers/models of it, which one would be the best except the first edition ones?
If you scroll down here, you'll get entire lineup of all GTX 1080 Ti variants ever produced,
link: https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/geforce-gtx-1080-ti.c2877

"Best" is subjective.
Highest GPU clock? Colorful iGame GTX 1080 Ti KUDAN at 1657 Mhz.
Highest boost clock? Colorful iGame GTX 1080 Ti KUDAN at 1784 Mhz.
Highest memory clock? EVGA GTX 1080 Ti FTW3 ELITE Black and EVGA GTX 1080 Ti FTW3 ELITE White at 1502 Mhz.
Quietest? MSI GTX 1080 Ti Gaming X.
Smallest?
Best water cooled?
Best overall?
Etc.
Further reading here: https://www.techradar.com/news/the-best-nvidia-gtx-1080-ti-graphics-cards

Do note that you will not find your version of GTX 1080 Ti from TechPowerUp list, since yours has been modified.
Namely, the air cooler it came with, has been removed, NZXT Kraken G12 AIO bracket is used to mount any AIO to the GPU.
NZXT Kraken G12 specs: https://nzxt.com/product/kraken-g12

Once you remove the AIO bracket and AIO pump from GPU die, you can read from GPU PCB what make and model GPU you have.
 
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Miki248

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I wouldn't say money is wasted. Since when your GTX 1080 Ti does have a fault, having a dedicated GPU that is 80% performance of GTX 1080 Ti, is better, than no GPU what-so-ever, 0%, without being able to use your PC at all.


Looks good.
Don't forget to connect the heating radiator power cable to the wall. Else-ways, there is no ground connection.


One hand will suffice.


Both hands.


Yes. Since once the power cord is plugged in, it instantly connects the heating radiator to the ground.


If you scroll down here, you'll get entire lineup of all GTX 1080 Ti variants ever produced,
link: https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/geforce-gtx-1080-ti.c2877

"Best" is subjective.
Highest GPU clock? Colorful iGame GTX 1080 Ti KUDAN at 1657 Mhz.
Highest boost clock? Colorful iGame GTX 1080 Ti KUDAN at 1784 Mhz.
Highest memory clock? EVGA GTX 1080 Ti FTW3 ELITE Black and EVGA GTX 1080 Ti FTW3 ELITE White at 1502 Mhz.
Quietest? MSI GTX 1080 Ti Gaming X.
Smallest?
Best water cooled?
Best overall?
Etc.
Further reading here: https://www.techradar.com/news/the-best-nvidia-gtx-1080-ti-graphics-cards

Do note that you will not find your version of GTX 1080 Ti from TechPowerUp list, since yours has been modified.
Namely, the air cooler it came with, has been removed, NZXT Kraken G12 AIO bracket is used to mount any AIO to the GPU.
NZXT Kraken G12 specs: https://nzxt.com/product/kraken-g12

Once you remove the AIO bracket and AIO pump from GPU die, you can read from GPU PCB what make and model GPU you have.

Thank you for confirming.
Yeah, I saw that article few days ago but prices for new ones are just ridiculous. I guess that I can't go wrong with whichever 1080ti model I choose to buy as used, as the performance difference is only 10 percent more or less and still better than most of the cards on the market. Might as well get one as a reserve.
 

Aeacus

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I guess that I can't go wrong with whichever 1080ti model I choose to buy as used
Given that GTX 1080 Ti was released Q1 2017 (nearly 8 years ago) and it being the best Pascal architecture GPU, any one of them also saw heavy usage. Due to that, i don't think any used GTX 1080 Ti that you'd buy from 2nd hand market would last long.

Equal performance to GTX 1080 Ti would be the latest RTX 4060,
comparison: https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GTX-1080-Ti-vs-Nvidia-RTX-4060/3918vs4150

While i'm certain that even brand new RTX 4060 costs FAR less than used GTX 1080 Ti. Not to mention that with brand new GPU, you'll get warranty with it as well. Oh, power consumption is also far less. GTX 1080 Ti is 250W GPU with transient power spikes to ~450W, while RTX 4060 is only 115W GPU, with transient spikes ~200W or so.
 
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Miki248

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Given that GTX 1080 Ti was released Q1 2017 (nearly 8 years ago) and it being the best Pascal architecture GPU, any one of them also saw heavy usage. Due to that, i don't think any used GTX 1080 Ti that you'd buy from 2nd hand market would last long.

Equal performance to GTX 1080 Ti would be the latest RTX 4060,
comparison: https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GTX-1080-Ti-vs-Nvidia-RTX-4060/3918vs4150

While i'm certain that even brand new RTX 4060 costs FAR less than used GTX 1080 Ti. Not to mention that with brand new GPU, you'll get warranty with it as well. Oh, power consumption is also far less. GTX 1080 Ti is 250W GPU with transient power spikes to ~450W, while RTX 4060 is only 115W GPU, with transient spikes ~200W or so.

Actually used 1080ti is approximately 150-200 dollars cheaper than brand new 4060 here. Also, there is only about 50 dollars of price difference between 4060 and 4060ti so it would be better to go for 4060ti then. However I cannot afford that.
 

Miki248

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Given that GTX 1080 Ti was released Q1 2017 (nearly 8 years ago) and it being the best Pascal architecture GPU, any one of them also saw heavy usage. Due to that, i don't think any used GTX 1080 Ti that you'd buy from 2nd hand market would last long.

Equal performance to GTX 1080 Ti would be the latest RTX 4060,
comparison: https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GTX-1080-Ti-vs-Nvidia-RTX-4060/3918vs4150

While i'm certain that even brand new RTX 4060 costs FAR less than used GTX 1080 Ti. Not to mention that with brand new GPU, you'll get warranty with it as well. Oh, power consumption is also far less. GTX 1080 Ti is 250W GPU with transient power spikes to ~450W, while RTX 4060 is only 115W GPU, with transient spikes ~200W or so.

Ok, so I tried to replace the PSU and got stuck.
Here are the photos before I started replacing it.

View: https://imgur.com/a/jmXedYF


And here are the photos of the current state.

View: https://imgur.com/a/ujE9IJH


I connected the motherboard.
In before pics, there were cables connected with SYS FAN 3 and PUMP FAN. Now I don't know which cables am I supposed to connect there. I connected the remaining fans using the SATA/PERIF slot 4 on the PSU.
The only fan that I didn't connect and don't know how is the one on the top of the PC case.
I don't know where am I supposed to plug in the cable of the CPU.
I connected the SATA/PERIF slot 1 with the hard drive.
SATA/PERIF slot 2 and 3 are not connected with anything and am not sure if I'm supposed to connect those anywhere.
VGA slot 1 is connected with the GPU. Both of those GPU ends have a separate 2pin connector, I used one of it on the right side and the other one is not connected.
VGA slot 2 and 3 are not connected with anything, I don't know even if I have to connect those as I only have one VGA.
In the area left of the big "CARBON" sign there were two connectors connected with the old PSU. As you can see on the photos nothing is connected there niw and I have no idea if I'm supposed to connect anything there again.

So this is way complicated than I thought and would be too hard to guide with just pics and text.

If someone could do video call with me and guide me I would be most grateful and would be willing to award that.

Please guys, help me out with this.....

Edit: I think I figured out what those two slots next to CARBON sign were for. It was written CPU PWR 1 and CPU PWR 2 underneath them, so I connected CPU 1 and CPU 2 slots cables from the PSU to each identical number.
 
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