Question Problem with the visible "VGA EZ Debug LED" on the MSI B350M Mortar motherboard

[PolQrny123]

Hi, I have a problem with the visible "VGA EZ Debug LED" on the MSI B350M Mortar motherboard. I have 16GB of RAM (2 sticks), an NVIDIA GTX 1060 graphics card, an AMD 5 1500x processor, and a 650W power supply. The computer turns on, but there is no display, and there is no connectivity with the USB ports, which is particularly strange.

Here's everything I've tried:

1. Thorough cleaning and resetting, removing and reinserting every component.
2. Attempting with a different 530W power supply and a different graphics card (same model, GTX 1060 3GB), but the issue persists.
3. Resetting the BIOS by removing the CMOS battery; I've done this about 10 times.
4. Moving the RAM sticks to different slots.
5. Checking the voltage on the motherboard with a voltmeter.
6. Various combinations and other basic solutions like changing cables or monitors.

Where could the problem be? MSI seems unable to resolve this issue, and from what I've read, it seems I may need a new BIOS version. The challenge is how to install it without functioning USB ports and a display (USB ports were working before this error occurred on the motherboard). I'm overwhelmed by what's happening here, even though I'm an IT professional. Everything online seems to be the same, and no one can help. The computer stopped working overnight and started showing this error. I've also tested other PCI-E slots, specifically PCI-E 1 and PCI-E 4, with no solution in sight. Just to add, if I disconnect the graphics card, the USB ports work. However, I can't start the computer on integrated graphics because my processor, AMD 5 1500x, doesn't support it. HELP!

 

[Aeacus]

I'm overwhelmed by what's happening here, even though I'm an IT professional.

IT professional? Software or hardware?
I get a feeling that you're in the realm of software, especially due to this:

However, I can't start the computer on integrated graphics because my processor, AMD 5 1500x, doesn't support it.

R5 1500X CPU doesn't have iGPU in it and it is actually quite common knowledge, at least for those in the realm of PC hardware, that is.


In any event, back to business;

Attempting with a different 530W power supply and a different graphics card (same model, GTX 1060 3GB), but the issue persists.

This rules out GPU issue, given that 2nd GPU is known to be working. This leaves only one option: MoBo itself.

"VGA EZ Debug LED"

This error doesn't say that issue is with GPU specifically, instead it says MoBo can not communicate with GPU, thus, no image. So either the GPU or MoBo is toast. Since you already ruled out it not to be GPU issue, this leaves that your MoBo is toast.

The computer stopped working overnight and started showing this error

Hardware can die at any given moment, even without any apparent reason. So, nothing new there. However;

and a 650W power supply

PSU make and model (or part number) is? Also, how old the PSU is, and was the PSU bought new or used/refurbished?

Same questions about this one too:

different 530W power supply

So, new MoBo is given. And if you answer the questions about PSUs, i can tell if you need new PSU too.

 

[PolQrny123]

IT professional? Software or hardware?
I get a feeling that you're in the realm of software, especially due to this:

R5 1500X CPU doesn't have iGPU in it and it is actually quite common knowledge, at least for those in the realm of PC hardware, that is.


In any event, back to business;

This rules out GPU issue, given that 2nd GPU is known to be working. This leaves only one option: MoBo itself.


This error doesn't say that issue is with GPU specifically, instead it says MoBo can not communicate with GPU, thus, no image. So either the GPU or MoBo is toast. Since you already ruled out it not to be GPU issue, this leaves that your MoBo is toast.


Hardware can die at any given moment, even without any apparent reason. So, nothing new there. However;

PSU make and model (or part number) is? Also, how old the PSU is, and was the PSU bought new or used/refurbished?

Same questions about this one too:


So, new MoBo is given. And if you answer the questions about PSUs, i can tell if you need new PSU too.

speaking of 1 question, I'm a programmer, I know more or less about parts.

The PSU model is Thermalmake LitePowerRRGB 650W, bought new, I don't have a second power supply, it was borrowed from a friend and I immediately returned it when it turned out that it didn't change anything.

Could this still be a problem with the motherboard even though I checked it with a voltmeter and there is the correct voltage everywhere? Isn't it maybe RAM or BIOS fault?

 

[Aeacus]

Could this still be a problem with the motherboard even though I checked it with a voltmeter and there is the correct voltage everywhere? Isn't it maybe RAM or BIOS fault?

For PC to work, following must be in working order: CPU, MoBo, RAM and PSU. And if you have CPU that doesn't have iGPU (like the chip you have), then GPU too. Monitor is only there to see what PC is doing; KB/mice are for inputs and storage drives are to house OS and your data. But PC will work without any storage drives (it then only boots into BIOS).

Since your MoBo has debug LED, to tell where the issue might be, it narrows down things quite a lot. At current moment, MoBo tells that it can not communicate with GPU. It doesn't tell that the issue is with DRAM or BOOT.
Because you already tested with 2nd GPU, this leaves MoBo to be the issue.

The computer stopped working overnight and started showing this error.

Reason behind it is this:

Thermalmake LitePowerRRGB 650W

That is low quality unit, borderline crap quality.
Making me to ask, why did you cheap out on your PSU? Did you buy that doorstop because it was cheap? Or because it has fancy RGB fan in it?

You should realize, that since PSU powers everything, it is the most important component inside the PC, right?

Or tell me this; here are two PSUs,
pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/compare/qn7v6h,rbyH99/

They both are 650W, 80+ Gold and semi-modular. But can you tell me the reason why Seasonic PSU costs double + then some ($140) compared to Apevia PSU ($60)?
Also, which of the two PSUs you'd use? Seasonic Focus 650 or Apevia Premier 650 (which also has fancy RGB fan in it)?


Issue with cheap, low-quality PSUs is, that when they die, they have the magical ability to fry everything they are connected to (aka your whole PC). And MoBo is usually 1st one to go, when PSU acts up. GPU can also die easily when PSU acts up. RAM is more durable and CPU is the most durable component inside the PC but even CPU isn't invulnerable.

So, it would be safe to say that your low-quality PSU killed your MoBo (and maybe GPU too). Here, i'd test each and every component you have (CPU, MoBo, RAM and GPU) in 2nd, compatible working PC, to see which of the components survived and which didn't. E.g you can test your GPU by giving it to your friend and they can look if your GPU works in their system or not. Same with RAM (given both builds use DDR4). Testing CPU requires compatible MoBo. And testing MoBo requires compatible CPU, RAM and GPU.


That being said, new PSU is a must, since what you have - shouldn't be bought in the first place.
For good quality PSU, i suggest you look towards Seasonic Focus/Vertex/PRIME or Corsair RMx/RMi/HXi/AXi, in 550W range, IF you plan to keep using your GTX 1060 (and it still works, that is). But if you plan to upgrade your GPU (or your GPU is toast), then 750W PSU is good for up to RTX 4070 Ti. For RTX 4080, you'd need 1000W PSU and RTX 4090 1600W PSU.
(My 3x PCs are also powered by Seasonic, full specs with pics in my sig.)

For 2nd opinion about your Tt LitePower RGB PSU, take a look at PSU tier list,
link: https://forums.tomshardware.com/thr...er-list-rev-14-8-final-update-jul-21.3624094/

You can find your PSU in Tier D, while the PSUs i suggested (and am personally using as well) are all Tier A.

Recap:
* New, good quality PSU
* New MoBo

Another option is hauling your PC to PC repair shop and paying them for diagnostics + fix. I'm pretty sure they come to the same conclusion as did i.

even though I checked it with a voltmeter and there is the correct voltage everywhere?

At what point you checked voltages? When PSU is idle? Since if so, it's like assuming car drives fine when engine turns on, but without ever doing the test drive.

PSU needs varying loads on it to test if it works fine in all and every load scenarios. Proper PSU test equipment easily costs 5000 USD + some more. With what one has at home (e.g multimeter), can not be used to test if PSU works fine.

Life lesson: NEVER cheap out on PSU. Also, never buy used PSU either.