[SOLVED] Problems with PC...

[Panzerwaffle]

I'm really new to PCs and I'm having a problem that my friend (who has experience) and I can't figure out. My PC runs fine for a space of about one to two hours before the power randomly cuts out(it comes back on and all the RGB and lights come back on on everything but no output to monitor). This causes the OS to completely break and I have to reinstall windows after getting a blue screen.

We've tried switching the RAM and I just tried a new Corsair RM 650x PSU over the old Thermaltake one and neither of those have worked so we have no idea what to do now... I have a suspicion that it might be the motherboard because when I switched the PSU earlier today I noticed that the wire for the rear fan of the case had been run between the motherboard and the case so I think it may have been a short?

Here's the specs if it matters:
CPU- Ryzen 3 2700x
GPU- ASROCK Radeon Rx 5500xt 8GB
RAM- 2x OLOY Warhawk 8GB
MB- ASROCK Steel Legend B450m MATX
SSD- Samsung 870 EVO 500gb
HDD- Seagate Barracuda 2tb
PSU- Corsair RM 650x
Case (if needed)- MSI MAG Forge 100r ATX mid tower

 

[JohnBonhamsGhost]

tried switching the RAM

tried switching to a new set of RAM or just switched locations?

I noticed that the wire for the rear fan of the case had been run between the motherboard and the case so I think it may have been a short?

if the wires are insulated than very unlikely.

This causes the OS to completely break and I have to reinstall windows after getting a blue screen.

what do you mean?
no post screen, Windows Startup errors, Windows Repair screen, boot loop, etc...?
have you tried loading the Advanced Boot Options(F8) and loading Windows from there?

have you been using the same OS install media each time? this could mean that your install package is corrupted.
try creating a new USB installer with the latest install package directly from Microsoft.

--
have you loaded the BIOS optimized defaults?
have you tried RAM modules separately to test if there may be a failed DIMM slot(s)?
have you verified that your disks are functioning properly?
have you tested CPU in another system to verify it is still functioning properly?

 

[Panzerwaffle]

• We used one of their RAM sticks in place of mine
• By the OS breaking, I mean that it freezes while the circle is spinning with the windows logo, then about 1/4 of the windows logo disappears on the display and upon reset I get a blue screen of death (Sorry I don’t know what it’s actually called, never had a PC before besides a laptop and I’ve had this one 3 months)
• We have tried booting in safe mode with the advanced options

- - -

• The same install media has been used each time

- - -

• I have verified the disks are working fine
• I’ve tested one of the ram slots with their stick of ram
• I don’t have any other systems to test the CPU on because everyone I know uses intel
• I haven’t changed anything from the BIOS besides when I was setting the SSD as my boot drive when I got it a month or so after building

 

[JohnBonhamsGhost]

I haven’t changed anything from the BIOS besides when I was setting the SSD as my boot drive when I got it a month or so after building

first i would try;
while in the BIOS choose their "Load Optimized Defaults" option then Save & Exit.
there's a small chance this could solve your issue(s) before going through any other troubleshooting.

By the OS breaking, I mean that it freezes while the circle is spinning with the windows logo,
We have tried booting in safe mode with the advanced options

and what came of trying to get into Safe Mode?

We used one of their RAM sticks in place of mine

with a single stick that you know functions correctly;
test it in each DIMM slot separately, only using one at a time: DIMM_2, DIMM_4, DIMM_1, DIMM_3

The same install media has been used each time

definitely use the Microsoft Media Creation Tool to make a new USB installer with the latest version available to ensure you do not currently have a corrupt package:

How To - Windows 10 clean install tutorial

If you are looking for the Windows 11 Clean install tutorial, you can find that here: Windows 11 Clean install tutorial (Click here) Otherwise, welcome to the Windows 10 Clean install tutorial This tutorial is intended to help you, step by step, to perform a clean install of Windows...

forums.tomshardware.com

 

[Panzerwaffle]

I will get back to you on the results of testing the DIMM slots, but when booted in safe mode there was no difference, it still would cut out around the 1-2 hour mark.

Actually, as I was about to test the slots, I noticed a couple things on the motherboard seemed bent. I think they're resistors? They're labeled ACE 1- ACE4. Would they have anything to do with it?

https://imgur.com/a/0mreDl8

View: https://imgur.com/gallery/0mreDl8
.

 

[JohnBonhamsGhost]

This causes the OS to completely break...

...it freezes while the circle is spinning with the windows logo, then about 1/4 of the windows logo disappears on the display and upon reset I get a blue screen of death...

...when booted in safe mode there was no difference, it still would cut out around the 1-2 hour mark.

so you cannot boot into the regular Windows GUI, but you can boot into Safe Mode for a short time?

if Safe Mode is functioning for any decent amount of time you should use it to run some system diagnostics:
Memtest,
Chkdsk,
SFC /scannow.
if not familiar you can find easy tutorials for each with included scanning parameters.

 

[Panzerwaffle]

It seems like I haven't been articulating whats happening correctly(my bad, sorry.)

I can boot into windows normally (even though I have to reinstall it every time the computer crashes/whatever the problem is). I was trying to say that even when we left it to run in safe mode it still crashed (wasn't sure if that would have been helpful).

But anyways I just finished doing testing all of the DIMM slots and they all worked fine. I was watching a lot more closely this time as it cut out (~1hr 20min of idling) The video flashed twice and it played the Windows Foreground Sound before losing video output and needing to be turned off. I did notice that the CPU cooler was working really hard as it did this and the CPU was at 58⁰C in the bios menu about 40ish seconds after it initially lost signal. It then failed to boot once and then booted fine afterwards (for the first time it didn't need windows reinstalled after this happens).

Edit: When it fully booted I got a notification saying windows had removed a recent update due to startup failure if that helps.

Edit 2: I might also add that when the pc had no problems, I would be able to play most of my games at intensive levels(for the genre, mostly EU4) and it would never get above 54⁰

Sorry if this is confusing I'm sure my lack of knowledge isn't making it any easier haha. I am very grateful for the help though.