Question PSU Help.

AamerBeast

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Feb 9, 2016
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Hello, So 2 months ago i bought new pc , but i think the psu is not giving enough power its Corsair 550W Active PFC 80+ White VS550 PSU
, Pc doesn't start from first try it usally takes 20 minute - 1 hour to start(Sometimes starts from first time) , all fans starts spinning etc, but the cpu cooler rgb doesn't light up the rest RGB fans does , but after leaving the pc running for 20 -1 hour the cpu cooler lights up and everything starts working,

PC Specs : Ryzen 5 3600 , 16GB Ram x2 8 3200mhz , GTX 1660 Ti, SSD 240GB , HDD 1TB , PSU Corsair 550W Active PFC 80+ White VS550 PSU
, is it power supply issue? or could be something else? and help would be alot appreciated.
 
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not clear. is the issue about cpu cooler lighting up?
PC Doesn't start from first try , when i turn on the pc all the fans starts spinning and lights up except the CPU COOLER Rgb doesn't light up and the monitor stays black , but when i leave the pc running for a while cpu cooler rgb lights up and pc starts working perfectly fine without black screen , is it power supply issue? not giving enough power or something?
 
is it from day one or got worse over time?
have you tried with either graphics disabled ?
and have you anything OC ?

on older MB that would be leaking capacitor.. but i wouldnt blame on new ones especially recently bought one... unless you were playing around ?
that PSU should be enough to power and ryzen5 and gtx
 
Corsair VS550 is pretty much bottom-of-the-barrel where Corsair's PSU quality range is concerned, so that could definitely be a problem especially if the PSU is reused from a previous system. If you can, return and replace with a CX550 (CX550M if you want modular cables) which is a newer design (2017) and much better quality.
 
is it from day one or got worse over time?
have you tried with either graphics disabled ?
and have you anything OC ?

on older MB that would be leaking capacitor.. but i wouldnt blame on new ones especially recently bought one... unless you were playing around ?
that PSU should be enough to power and ryzen5 and gtx
it got worse over time, no the pc is not overclocked, also yes i tried without graphics card same issue.
 
i would strip/ breadboard , just psu..mb..one ram stick and cpu...
that would narrow problem to psu ..mb.....ram stick(have quick ram scan, 15 min)..

have to get a friend who will be willing to open his box and give you psu for a couple hrs..

i would say it`s hardware not software problem, so narrowing and swapping probably your best bet to get to culprit

many people plug in extension lead in wall socket and then plug all in extension lead, monitor, audio system,pc,and whatever... try psu power cord in separate wall socket.

is there a difference how lights on MB are light - before you press power button and after you press power button ?
 
i would strip/ breadboard , just psu..mb..one ram stick and cpu...
that would narrow problem to psu ..mb.....ram stick(have quick ram scan, 15 min)..

have to get a friend who will be willing to open his box and give you psu for a couple hrs..

i would say it`s hardware not software problem, so narrowing and swapping probably your best bet to get to culprit

many people plug in extension lead in wall socket and then plug all in extension lead, monitor, audio system,pc,and whatever... try psu power cord in separate wall socket.

is there a difference how lights on MB are light - before you press power button and after you press power button ?
I think the issue is the psu , i ordered new one, also changed power options from Best Performance to Power Saver, and the pc working perfectly fine atm.
 
great to hear with progress. didnt think that setting in windows have big influence , just out of curiosity ,so you still with old psu? and what setting for power mode is for your graphics card ? i think its right-click over the Windows desktop and select "NVIDIA Control Panel" ,from the NVIDIA Control Panel, select the "Manage 3D settings" from the left column ,click on the Power management mode drop down box
maybe windows and graphics card setting was interfering with each other and psu just got blame, they shouldnt thou, i just hope new psu under same old settings wont do same. but sounds like psu to me.
so what psu you are getting ?
 
great to hear with progress. didnt think that setting in windows have big influence , just out of curiosity ,so you still with old psu? and what setting for power mode is for your graphics card ? i think its right-click over the Windows desktop and select "NVIDIA Control Panel" ,from the NVIDIA Control Panel, select the "Manage 3D settings" from the left column ,click on the Power management mode drop down box
maybe windows and graphics card setting was interfering with each other and psu just got blame, they shouldnt thou, i just hope new psu under same old settings wont do same. but sounds like psu to me.
so what psu you are getting ?
GPU was set to Prefer maximum performance but changed it to optimal power until i get the new psu, i ordered Corsair RM650 Modular 650W Gold Active 80+ Gold , hopefully its gonna fix the problem.
 
Ryzen cpus are best left on Balanced power plan in Windows, it gives the cpu better control of necessary voltages.

So you have the latest bios? Just because you just bought it, doesn't mean the motherboard wasn't sitting on a shelf or in a container on the docks for several months and has a relatively older bios.

Have you installed all of the motherboard chipset drivers from the motherboard website? Windows tends to want to use its own drivers, many of which are generic, so you loose out on performance, and can run into conflicts. Audio and Lan are the most important, as they both have network associations, and network drivers are historically well known to create issues at boot, like long freezes.

Does the pc start in 'safe mode' with any issues?
 
Ryzen cpus are best left on Balanced power plan in Windows, it gives the cpu better control of necessary voltages.

So you have the latest bios? Just because you just bought it, doesn't mean the motherboard wasn't sitting on a shelf or in a container on the docks for several months and has a relatively older bios.

Have you installed all of the motherboard chipset drivers from the motherboard website? Windows tends to want to use its own drivers, many of which are generic, so you loose out on performance, and can run into conflicts. Audio and Lan are the most important, as they both have network associations, and network drivers are historically well known to create issues at boot, like long freezes.

Does the pc start in 'safe mode' with any issues?

Very nice psu choice btw. Would be nice if it does fix the issue. The psu is directly responsible for every single voltage in a pc, if even one is out of whack, it'll create issues in a whole bunch of places, some you'll see, some you won't, but they'll still exist.
 
Ryzen cpus are best left on Balanced power plan in Windows, it gives the cpu better control of necessary voltages.

So you have the latest bios? Just because you just bought it, doesn't mean the motherboard wasn't sitting on a shelf or in a container on the docks for several months and has a relatively older bios.

Have you installed all of the motherboard chipset drivers from the motherboard website? Windows tends to want to use its own drivers, many of which are generic, so you loose out on performance, and can run into conflicts. Audio and Lan are the most important, as they both have network associations, and network drivers are historically well known to create issues at boot, like long freezes.

Does the pc start in 'safe mode' with any issues?

Very nice psu choice btw. Would be nice if it does fix the issue. The psu is directly responsible for every single voltage in a pc, if even one is out of whack, it'll create issues in a whole bunch of places, some you'll see, some you won't, but they'll still exist.
I built the pc, flashed the bios via usb then installed all drivers from the msi website, Also i never tried running the pc in safe mode.
 
Can you explain a lil bit more? why the motherboard is the problem?

Because the PSU is powering on. The motherboard isn't posting. At least, not until after some time.

Think about it. How is it the PSU? Is the PSU gradually building up power until suddenly... BAM! There's enough power to allow the motherboard to POST? No. I don't think so. That's not how power supplies work.
 
Because the PSU is powering on. The motherboard isn't posting. At least, not until after some time.

Think about it. How is it the PSU? Is the PSU gradually building up power until suddenly... BAM! There's enough power to allow the motherboard to POST? No. I don't think so. That's not how power supplies work.
I dunno what to say, I'm gonna change the psu if the problem isn't fixed i'll replace the mb.
 
Because the PSU is powering on. The motherboard isn't posting. At least, not until after some time.

Think about it. How is it the PSU? Is the PSU gradually building up power until suddenly... BAM! There's enough power to allow the motherboard to POST? No. I don't think so. That's not how power supplies work.
Okay so i installed the new psu and it seems the issue is gone , everything is working 100% now, the motherboard is fine.
 
Bad solder connection can cause that. Client had a light that no matter what took about half an hour to come on. Checked connection, had 120v. So my boss swapped the light out. Same problem. Replaced with another light that was working fine, same problem. Checked the connection in a box further up the line, bad connection on the jumper. Had a single strand making full connection in the wire nut, enough to fool the voltage tester to see 120v, but not enough to pass the amperage necessary, until the circuit warmed up and the wire would flex with the heat. That fraction of a mm movement was enough to make a better connection, light would come on. And that's a cause of many electrical fires.

I could see that happening inside a psu, or even on a motherboard, and it could be that your replacement of the psu didn't actually fix the issue, the old psu might be good, but your movement of the wires changed the angle of pressure on a connector, and now the motherboard connects as it should, but is still a busted solder joint and further movement might rebreak the connection.
 

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