PSU tier list 2.0

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I can't put my faith in totally fanless, theres too many temp variables, things that could go wrong, gpu's exhaust etc. I think the best silent solution is the semi-fanless, a 120/140mm fan that doesn't engage until a set load or temp or can run standard with the Eco switch off. Best of both worlds
 


Ah, but this system may not even have a GPU...:)
Very low power draw systems.

firewall + watching videos + backups.
 
OK, this should spark some sniping...

I need a recommendation for a PSU. This will be to power a whole house firewall box. G3258 CPU on a micro (or itx) board, no GPU, a single SSD.

Req's:
450watt or smaller
Smaller box is better
Pref modular or semi, but not required.
Brand or color - irrelevant
Quiet is better. Fanless gets extra points.
Price? weeelllllll.....Anything over $100 is right out. Pref under $60.


Which one, and why.





You need at least 750w for that system. 1000w to make it more future proof.





Hahahahahahahaha jk




If it were my money,

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Power Supply: SeaSonic 360W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($53.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $53.99


or if you want small fully mod?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Power Supply: SeaSonic 300W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular Flex ATX Power Supply ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $39.99


TFX?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Power Supply: SeaSonic 350W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular TFX Power Supply ($53.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $53.98




 
Most semifanless implementations are pointless. If you have a fan that spins at a really low RPM, it can be completely inaudible while providing better cooling than it not running at all. And it costs no more money even to make a semi-passive PSU, as told to me by Jonnyguru.
 
You'd need to upsize the heatsinks a little further, I expect. But no significant component changes; likely just routing + resistors.

Technically speaking, the "450W" in a 450W power supply means that a power supply loaded to that value, at the rated temperature, constantly, should last the warranty period. Anything else and "450W" is a meaningless number. It doesn't mean max power. Not true at all. It doesn't mean max continuous power. Not true either. So, really, it's just a dumb number on a label IMO; I don't believe power supplies should be rated by wattage. I think the rating of a power supply should merely be a load table where the amperage values are actually set to the OCP triggering point. That would actually be a sensible standard. Because it's already really stupid that power supplies, for instance, are rated for "20A" but OCP kicks in at 28A. It's extremely stupid I think, and while that leeway is there to account for transients, I still believe there needs to be more standardization. I don't think there's any reason to look at rated amperages at all honestly. There's no consistency with them.
That's a horrid idea. OTP can and will kick in before OCP, and if you tell someone they can load it down to 28A, they will. Rated current should be the highest safe, continuous current.

Your circuit breakers are likely 15A. Under a 15A continuous load, they must not trip. That's why you can plug 15A appliances into them. The instantaneous tripping current is normally 5-10x rated current; if you tell someone they can load a circuit to 75A you're going to have huge issues.

Good industrial power supplies come with a datasheet explaining all the conditions that impact the rating - for example, it may be rated for an intake air temperature of 40C. If you reduce that to 25C, it may actually now be, perfectly officially and without voiding warranty, rated to 1.2x normal output. If you increase it to 50C, it may only be allowed to supply 0.9x.

General consumers cannot be expected to read datasheets. What's really needed is a testing standard that says 'PSUs shall be rated according to their performance under the following conditions' in the same way aircon units, circuit breakers, and other gear is.

You didn't think your 12,000 BTU/hr aircon unit delivered that no matter the indoor or outdoor temperature or humidity, did you?
 
Rather than build two PCs in the same box, look at one of the InWin BP655 mini-ITX cases. I've used two of them, with the included 300W PSU. C.Hegge over at HardwareInsights reviewed one for me a while back; solid tier-3 I'd say, which is all this box needs. Mine have been quiet. That's what's running Igor right now, and it's silent.
 


That's because Black is the new white, blue, red, grey, silver well actually RGB. Because BLACK!!!!!



Look again. It is right under the HXi.
 


Some black doesn't bother me. My case is black, and most of the cabling would be routed behind the motherboard tray anyway. I am just looking for components that will show up better, with my purple lighting. Hence why I want to get an Asus Sabertooth Z170s. The silent snow would match up well with that board. I don't have to have it, just kinda wanted it.
 
All psu manufacturer should have one straight SATA power plug at the end of the SATA cable. Got the S340 and bending the right angle plugs in my cm v550 for 2.5inch drive was a pain in the butt.
 


Yes, I would love it if they did that, it would have made my life so much easier in my m-ITX build
 
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