PSU tier list 2.0

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I have no idea. My ex bought it for me when my last psu died (that was a 6year old ez cool 550w at the time and the only.thing that went wrong was the 3.3v rail dropped to 2.7v - when tested using paperclip and multimeter).

Either way, i will have to get some cash together for a decent psu this time me thinks. Here's hoping current one keeps going until i have the cash for new 1 lol! Thanks guys and gals!
 


Where do Etasis come in on the list then as i can see a used etasis 650 that has more than i will ever need available but dont know which tier it comes in at?
 
Daniel_542. Psu wattage and claims can be slightly misleading, especially at the lower end / tier5 type units. Take for instance the Blueberry PSB560 which is claimed to have all sorts of high efficiency, good thermals, runs cool, is perfect for office or gaming use etc. Whole bunch of smoke blown you can guess. It has a single 6pin pcie and a 12v rail rated at 16A. That's it. My old Seasonic M12-II 520w has a 12v rail rated at 40A. By all rights, that Blueberry is supposed to be 40w stronger than my 520w, reality has it vastly different. So just because a Etasis unit is claimed at 650w,doesnt mean that it really is or can do what a quality tier 1 or tier 2 unit can. This video shows a few tier5 psus, (and a few tier 4) and exactly why they are rated so often low, regardless of actual wattage printed on the box.
https://youtu.be/f6snWfd1v7M
 
The first post says it will be updated in Q2 2017. As we are already in July does anyone know when that will be?
Excellent list by the way! Thank you to the OP :)

Also can this not be stickyed & the old one unstickyed?
 



It's only a month late, <she says hopefully> 😀
 
Special Computex Live Stream with Jonny Guru The POWER SUPPLY EXPERT.
Tech YES City
Streamed live on May 31, 2017
This is a special one off live stream with the power supply guru from Corsair known as Jonny Guru! Let's chat and hang out and have some fun! Also a big thank you to MSI and Corsair for helping support this computex trip!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5p1IwK9U7d4

It's a long video 51:01, and here is a list of things that I thought were good if anyone is interested.

(0:34) What makes or breaks a power supply? Jonny Guru: People assume efficiency rating automatically means quality. All it means is efficiency. Some things you want to look at are the temperature rating for example. Some of the cheaper units are only rated at 25C. It’s never going to be 25C in your PC. The importance of that is the components inside have what is called a derating curve. (1) As a part gets hotter is ability to output declines.
(1:40) How long is this going to last if it’s got these compactors in it? In my opinion the whole capacitor thing is overblown. Even the Japanese capacitors you get aren’t even made in Japan. They are actually just Japanese brand made in China. It cost so much to import into China all the companies have factories in China, and that’s who they sell to power supply companies.
(2:05) One thing that is really overlooked is the fan. That is going to be the first thing to die in a power supply. There are a lot of sleeve bearing fans out there, and unfortunately there aren’t going to last very long. You want a good rifle bearing fan, or an fdb fan. When the fan dies and you don’t know it than it just heats up till it dies.
(2:50) That’s one thing about power supplies they all don’t have the protection circuits. Over temperature protection, the over power protection, short circuit protection. You kind of take for granted that a power supply is going to have all that. But they don’t.
(3:10) I did have 2 power supplies now that would randomly cut out. And they were rated way above what those parts would juice. I ended up replacing the power supplies, and the system would work. What would that be? Jonny Guru: Sometimes we will see a cheaper power supply shut down when you start up a game or a benchmark, because so much power in drawn by the graphics card of the CPU through just the one connector. The PCI-E or the EPS connector for the CPU draws so much power so quickly it causes a drop in voltage. The power supply has an under voltage protection. It could be anyone of the protections, or a cheap power supply. Or it could be protections that are hypersensitive. It sees that something is wrong and it shuts off. Some power supplies have overcurrent protection, but it’s rarely that. It would have to have 30 amps of continuous draw. Or it could be a real hot environment. If its 35-45 degrees inside your power supply is just going to freak out and shut down.
(9:06) Server power supplies are mission critical. They are made to not fail. They don’t necessarily have the best voltage regulation, or minimal ripple that’s all consumer level products. Because consumers read reviews, and it’s like this guy makes a great power supply. Now the next company comes along, and has to make a better so they can get a better review. And now we see power supplies leap frogging themselves every year , so they can get a better review.
(9:40) What can get better on power supplies? A term that gets used a lot on http://www.jonnyguru.com/ is “mythic performance.” Because we are to the point now where are voltage regulation and ripple is so “mythic” is doesn’t even matter anymore.
(13:40) Which PSU is the best all-rounder for a budget with a GTX 1060 or a RX 580, and of course an R5 1600. RMX had been proven a very low failure rate. It’s only gold efficiency, but it has a zero RPM mode that works really well because it has a micro controller. Corsair is one of the only companies that uses a micro controller to control fan speed, so we can actually program the fan profile in there. RMX’s are the least expensive units that come with a fan controller. Best bang for the buck.
(34:23) Even if you have a fantastic power supply and even one thing goes wrong during the assembly process 3 months, 6 months, 1 year down the road something can fail. You can have a tiny brake in the solder or crack.
(39:24) Modular vs. Fixed cables in voltage variation and efficiency? Any point of connection is going to be an efficiency drop, because it adds resistance. And the pins, you know everyone is the gauge of the wire, the numbers of connectors, the pins are the part that is most susceptible to high current. So, when people use thing like adapters like a molex to a sata adapter, or something like that. They are putting stress on those pins. It doesn’t matter what the gauge of the wire is, or that you’ve made it like 50 feet long. On a modular power supply that is 10 times worst, because you have the pins that plug into a modular interface. Everything that is plugged into that cable has to go through that connector.
(41:28) So do you think the semi-modular are the best? It goes without say that is going to be less problematic than going fully modular. Fully modular is going to be worst, because of the potential for the connectors to go loose or the potential for the connectors to fail. At least with the semi-modular you won’t have that problem though with the 24 pin and EPS. I love fully modular though, because if I’m changing things on my PC I just pull them all out than it.
(42:13) Ask Jonny if there are any problems with wine, and the RM1000i? In this day and age every power supply is susceptible to coil wine, because in order to get the better efficiency they have to lower the switching frequency down to almost an audible level. Parts that are wound like a coil, transformer, or even a poly capacitor if they are not made absolutely perfect then you end up with these vibrations. Vibrations cause audible noise. 20 years ago the inefficiency was 70%, so the switching frequency high even if you had the crappiest parts in there you wouldn’t hear it.
(44:02) What are some good rules of thumb when buying a power supply? Don’t get anything no one has ever heard of. The fan is going to be the first thing that goes on a power supply. Fan types get a FDB if you don’t want to have to switch out your fan.
(48:19) If you have 100 volt or 240 volt, which is better for a power supply? The 240. Higher voltage less current. Less current less heat on your primary side parts. Japan is 100 and that’s hard on a power supply.

Edit: Newegg is offer $10-20 rebates on RMX PSU until next Thursday.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007657%2050001459%208000&IsNodeId=1&Manufactory=1459&page=1&bop=And&SpeTabStoreType=0&SrchInDesc=RMX&PageSize=96&order=BESTMATCH

Here are a couple for quick link
CORSAIR RMx Series RM550X 550W 80 PLUS GOLD Haswell Ready Full Modular ATX12V & EPS12V SLI and Crossfire Ready Power Supply $89.99 Sale Ends in 6 Days (Wed) $69.99 after $20.00 rebate card
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139144&Tpk=N82E16817139144
CORSAIR RMx Series RM650X 650W 80 PLUS GOLD Haswell Ready Full Modular ATX12V & EPS12V SLI and Crossfire Ready Power Supply $99.99 Sale Ends in 7 Days (Thu)Save: $20.00 (17%) $79.99 after $20.00 rebate card
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139143&Tpk=N82E16817139143

2nd Edit: Jonny Guru:Corsair bases the warranty of it's PSU's on the quality of the parts inside. And these RMx Gold series come with a 10 year warranty. And they base that on the computer running 24/7.
 


Where do lms data psu's appear in the list?
 
LMS Data psus are rack mount server psus and a totally different breed than what regular consumers would purchase for a pc. For a server, the psu is absolutely mission critical, it can't ever fail, so server psus tend to be extremely well built, and just about as bulletproof as possible to get. However, that comes at a price usually, that being performance. You won't see the super tight dc ripples, low noise fans, rpm modes, high amp 12v rails etc, because servers don't need or use them. You don't see servers being oc'd for higher performance, as they run multiple cpu/core Xeons etc where speed is not essential but core count is.
Server psus are workhorses, not racehorses and thats a large distinction, making server psus not honestly designed for OC type gaming psus. So it's really a matter of comparing apples and oranges, server psus really having no place on any listing of consumer pc psus.
 
I can get an lms data 750w psu with the following specs:
+3.3v – 22A

+5v – 34A

+12v – 36A

-12v – 0.5A

+5vsb – 2.0A

£35 brand new

Worth it or should I see what I can get elsewhere?
 
High power plus hp-650-g14c...
Good or bad psu (i can a 2year old one for £26)?
Only reason i ask is that mine has forced me to disconnect an hdd this morning just to start my pc up so obviosuly its suffering more than i thought
 
+3.3V@25A,
+5V@25A,
+12V@62A,
-12V@0.8A,
+5VSB@3A
This is about typical of a decent ATX pc 750w psu. Quite a large difference, especially in the 12v rail, which is what powers the gpu, newer hdds/SSDs, fans, cpu etc. There is still some use for the minor rails, which is why they've been cut down to @25A on most new psus, there's no need for the extra amperage as things like older ide drives which did use predominantly the minor rails are no longer viable.

HighPower is Sirfa/Sirtec, who is OEM for many psu brands such as OCZ, Be quiet, PcPower&Cooling, Chieftec and several others and as such runs the entire gamut of quality, from excellent to junk. Most psus they build are solidly mediocre and tend to have slightly larger claims than what's real for the psu. That particular HighPower is supposedly 650w,yet carries a single 6pin and a single 6+2pin. By comparison, so does my 520w older Seasonic, and the new Corsair 450w CXM has 2x 6+2pin. That just shows how much faith HighPower has in its psu on the 12v rail. If you look up the manufacturers website, it lists compatability with core 2 duos, PentiumD, etc all of which are close to 10 years old, if not older. That's how old a design that psu is. It qualified for 80+ efficiency, not Bronze or Gold. When first designed it was decent, solidly mediocre for the needs, but compared to a modern designed psu, it's junk basically.

While I can understand budget restraints, considering the psu is by far the single most important component of any pc, trying to circumnavigate price points by buying the cheapest possible psu will land you in a whole mess of trouble when that psu fails and damages other components. Might take months, or even weeks, days or minutes, but it going to happen.
Please, enough with the duct-tape....
 
View on hiper hpu-4m670-sk psu please?
4 16a 12v rails
25a 3.3v
30a 5v
0.8a -12v
3a 5vsb
Max output 670w
Knowing my luck its another tier 4 or lower but i cant find it in the list. Lol
 


https://www.overclockers.co.uk/hiper-hpu-4m670-type-m-670w-atx2.2-psu-black-ca-010-hp.html
Product information: HPU-4M670 TYPE M 670W ATX2.2 PSU - BLACK

HPU-4M670 sets a class of its own from HIPER™ standard series. It’s really wallet friendly. It still offers the same power output specification of the award winning Type M series, the same amount of exTender™ just like Type M series, not to mention the meshed body for excellent ventilation and it’s SLi certified.

- exTenderTM up to 13 devices
- Four independent 12V rails
- 17 device compatibility
- Rohs Compliant
- P8 connector is included
- SSI EPS 12V v2.91
Here is a link to the 780 watt version
https://plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/SP451_HIPER_HPU-4M780_EPS12V_780W_Report.pdf
HPU-4M780
 


Best guess for tier level and personal views on it?
 
Manufacturer is Russian http://www.hipergroup.com/ I don't know anything about it other than what I've found. I could not guess the tier.
Features

Details

Type
EPS12V v2.91
Maximum Power
670W
Fans
1 x 80 mm Fan (Dual Ball Bearing)
PFC
Active
Main Connector
24Pin
+12V Rails
4 x 12V independent rails
PCI-Express Connector
2 x 6-Pin
SLI
SLI Certified
CrossFire
CrossFire Ready
Modular
No
Power Good Signal
100-500ms
Hold-up Time
16ms min.
Efficiency
> 80%
Input Voltage
100 - 240 V
Input Frequency Range
50/60 Hz
Input Current
9A
Output
+3.3V@25A,+5V@30A,+12V1@16A,+12V2@16A,+12V3@16A,+12V4@16A,-12V@0.8A,+5VSB@3.0A

Connectors
1 x Main connector (24-pin)
1 x 12V(P4)
1 x 12V(8pin)
6 x peripheral
4 x SATA
1 x Floppy
4 x PCI-E
Features
SLI-Ready
Crossfire-certified
Four independent 12V rails.
Complies with latest ATX12V v2.2 / EPS12V v2.91 form factors.
Extender.
Active Power Factor Correction (PFC).
Gold plated connectors for minimum power loss and optimal conductivity.
PCI-E, SATA, Molex with EZ-Grip, floppy, P8 & P4 connector.
 


I dug a little deeper... Found it has the following 12v rail areangement:
12v1 eps12v 8pin + 12v atx 4pin
12v2 6pin pci-e (with adapter to conver to 8pin in box)
12v3 main atx 24pin and 4pin pci-e
12v4 3xmolex and 4xsata
Not bad if you ask me and my less than little knowledge of power supply specs.
I think i will see if i can raise the money for it. Thanks for your help peeps
 
Junk. It has 4 separate rails, only 1 of which has a 6pin pcie. On a 670w psu? And then you have to adapter a 6pin to an 8pin? Wow, talk about a fire hazard. That's a 75w connector being forced to run 150w on a rail that maxes out at 190w. If the Russians are actually guilty of espionage, stealing plans etc from the US for years, you'd think they would have at least stolen a good psu design.
 


junk???

its not even worth the name scrap
 


Given that i only need a 6pin for my card it sounds fine to me. Im getting anmoyed now as im severely limited on funds but in need of a psu that can handle my system (which needs about 520w - including 20% overhead). It seems that no matter what i hand over as an idea, it going to cause me problems in someone opinion. What would you suggest given an extremely tight budget (at a push around £40) and need for 5 sata (will run my ssd's via a sata splitter) and 3 molex along with 6pin pcie and 8pin cpu connector?
Ps. Thanks for the advice though everyone. I appreciate it a lot. Its just the situation eith my current psu is not far off dictating leaving my PC off until its replaced as issues are happening more often now
 
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/CORSAIR-RM750X-ATX-PSU-750-W-Black-80Plus-certified-boxed-with-all-cables-/302377616992?hash=item46671c4660%3Ag%3AiTQAAOSwd3dZYQ7Q&_trkparms=pageci%253A6c6ac0d6-6486-11e7-b9e6-74dbd180e7fa%257Cparentrq%253A269d1ac315d0aa18f10d7a13ffec7909%257Ciid%253A21
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Corsair-CX650M-ATX-Power-Supply-/182651184808?_trkparms=aid%253D222007%2526algo%253DSIC.MBE%2526ao%253D1%2526asc%253D20150519202351%2526meid%253Dc4f338e3cc8e479c99a35cdacc32d274%2526pid%253D100408%2526rk%253D2%2526rkt%253D19%2526sd%253D292176455455&_trksid=p2056116.c100408.m2460
 
The Hiper Type R 580W From High Performance Group
Discussion in 'Power Supplies' started by TheArchangel, May 2, 2006.
https://hardforum.com/threads/the-hiper-type-r-580w-from-high-performance-group.1050620/

"Andyson makes a great power supply. That's why I'm using them to make my next power supply.

It's unfortunately a company like Hiper had to whore out such a good thing. Don't take this as a thread crap. The quality of your power supply is really top notch. It just has some short-comings that need to be known to Joe Q. Buyer.....

Take a look at how the cables are made. More connectors on the peripheral end than on the power supply end. That's bad. They're basically splitting off all of the wires off of a single contact support. This adds resistance and causes voltage drops.

Take the PCI-e for example: 6-pins into 3. And only one of the three wires is ground. You're supposed to less resistance on ground than hot. Haven't these guys ever installed a car stereo? 😉 Over 75W on a single wire and through a modular connector to boot? Ouch! The CPU 4-pin into 2 gives me the same concern. 100W of power over a single 16g wire?

And if you had a load tester, you'd find that the power supply is not actually 580W. You could also just open the unit up and find an "AD" part number on the PCB. I believe 500W is what Andyson built that unit to do continuously.

Hiper did to an Andyson unit what Cooler Master did for their 600W eXtreme Power to a a Seventeam 500W unit. Unfortunately, these companies are so used to releasing crap that when they get their hands on a quality unit, they don't know how to market it so the just slap a label with a higher wattage claim on it. It's still more power than most people need, but I don't take kindly to being lied to.

Your unit is 110V only because it's non-PFC. It can't be sold (legally) in the EU. In the EU they use a 230V only PFC unit. The reason for the two models is simple: The active PFC circuitry generates enough heat, at 110V input, that even the 120MM and 80MM fans are not enough to keep the entire PSU cool. The APFC actually effects the de-rating curve of the power supply enough to cause problems even with the most basic PC's. At 230V input, less amperage goes through the circuitry, so it runs significantly cooler.

Whose idea was it to run the US on 110V?"
https://hardforum.com/threads/the-hiper-type-r-580w-from-high-performance-group.1050620/#post-1029379830

ko888 are you saying it's a good power supply company even though it's not Russian? It looks like they have had issues in the past. I can't remember where I got the link for http://www.hipergroup.com/ while searching. Did they outsource where the product was made?

Edit: I found it, the link I found to the Russian site was from a Cnet review https://www.cnet.com/products/hiper-type-m-hpu-4m780-power-supply-780-watt/specs/
Where to Buy
Hiper Type-M HPU-4M780 - power supply - 780 Watt
Part Number: HPU-4M780
Visit manufacturer site for details.
 
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