PWN Software-Controlled Fan Hub?

Awakening

Honorable
Dec 10, 2013
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http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811992012

Is there anything like this, but completely internal and software-controlled? I need at least four different speed settings (1 fan, 1 fan, 2 fans, 3 fans) for four different groups of fans. I'd preferably like to set a fan curve to each set to rev up at certain temperatures and some to stay completely off when idle. All fans are PWN 4-pin. I'm finding it exceedingly difficult to find what I'm looking for. Does something that'll allow me to do this exist?
 
Solution
With that many radiators you won't be needing additional fans for the case. But yes, 2:2:1:1 config for fans using case channels 1-4 is your easiest way.


I'm not prepared to spend $60+ just to control my fans. Surely there's a cheaper way to do it?
 


Buy a switchboard and flip it yourself at 25000 per second?

Seriously dude, your demands are just not going to be met cheaper than building it yourself, most pro built stuff is more expensive.
 


This is my first build. I have absolutely no idea how to do any of that.
 


That certainly explains why you have no clue as to the cost of this type of demand.

Considering that fact though, it's pretty clear that you do NOT need any of that, and you should just get a regular fan controller. You can find an 4 output one like the NZXT Sentry 3 for ~40
 


Is there a reason that something like this doesn't exist? I thought it was something pretty simple to ask for. I mean, all the device needs to do is send different outputs to each port and then make a program to control this, yeah?

All I'm really aiming for is a very slient build. I have a 360, 240, and 120 radiator as well as a rear exhaust fan. I want the rear exhaust fan running all the time, but I don't need all of the radiator fans spinning during idle. Is there something that I could maybe do with fan splitters and an Asus MAXIMUS VIII GENE motherboard?

To further explain exactly what I want running during idle:
1 rear exhaust
2 front intake radiators
Under load:
1 bottom intake radiator
3 top exhaust radiator

If 240 mm of radiator can't run two 908 Ti cards and a 6600K with reasonable temps, I could always enable the bottom 120 as well. I'm not entirely sure, but I don't think a lot of positive pressure ever hurt anything. I never want the fans running at full blast, always half or lower. That's why I have so many radiators in such as small case as the Mini R2.

There's also the problem that I can't fit any 5" bay devices. The 360 mm radiator forces me to remove the two 5" bays that I have.
 


You clearly don't know anything about microcontrollers then... you need specialized PWM controllers to send signals at the rates that PWM fans need, even things like the arduino can only drive two PWM outputs at 25kHz, at reduced step count of ~80 steps, despite having 6 independent 256 step PWM outputs normally! Basically, it's actually really hard to control multiple fans, and why most motherboards have at most 3 PWM outputs, and cheaper ones feature only 1 (and a second or third is voltage regulated)

If you want silent, get some quiet fans, tune them for the fastest speed (fixed) you are comfortable with, and then keep them at that output. The number of radiators you have is quite ridiculous even for 2x980ti (6600k is negligible, only ~100W even overclocked, the 980tis are >200 each), I doubt the fans will have to go above 800rpm to keep that under 65C with just the 240+360
 


Thanks, that info helps a lot. The 800 RPM range is definitely what I wanted even under load.

What exactly will I need to keep all of my fans at this speed?

1 x 4-Pin CPU fan connector
1 x 4-Pin CPU_OPT fan connector
4 x 4-Pin Chassis fan connectors
1 x 4-Pin Water pump connector

That's what the MAXIMUS VIII GENE has. I know for a fact the the CPU fan connector has an adjustable fan curve in the BIOS, but I don't know about the other ports and I can't imagine a 1 to 7 fan splittler either exists or would work.
https://www.pugetsystems.com/files/4811/parts/Motherboard/Asus-Maximus-VIII-GENE-11185/E10484_MAXIMUS_VIII_GENE_UM_WEB.pdf
There's the manual (automatically downloads).
Found "seven fan headers, six of which are independently controllable." on a SilentPC review.
Can't find a full BIOS review though to see what the extent of "independently controllable" is. Also have no idea which slot is uncontrollable.
I'll have 6x NF-P12 and 1x NF-S12A PWN.

Would a Silverstone CPF04 maybe work for this by having it connected to the CPU_FAN slot and having all seven fans run off that fan curve in the BIOS? This might now be the most accurate method when gaming because the GPUs will most likely be hotter than CPU, but I don't know what else to do without knowing if the other five fan slots have a fan curve or not.

This is the most confusing thing about my first build by far. Water-cooling was easy to get a grasp on, but this is just ridiculous. If you could take the time to show me how to do this without spending over $50, I'd really appreciate the help. You seem like you know what you're talking about.
 
PWM can be split just about as many times as you want with a fan splitter, but only if you use a SATA,PCIe, or Molex power to fan pin adapter (motherboards weren't meant to handle the >20W your fans could output)

In your case though, the P12 isn't even PWM! it's voltage regulated, so you can just put a splitter for two sets of two fan and connect them to the chassis fan connectors (in voltage regulated mode), so it's 2:2:1:1, the CPU fan (S12A) to CPU fan connector, and your pump to the pump connector. That will give you 5 profiles, which you can then make equal or independent.


And for the love of god, STOP SAYING pwn, it's PWM with an M not N!
 


Sorry, boss.



http://amzn.com/B006I6HMXI

There are PWM models. Typically Noctua have a PWN, FLX, and another version that I can't remember for each model fan. I'd imagine them being available in PWN change your suggestion.

Do you have a Skype or something like that where we could IM?
 


Nope, it's still the SAME, and actually even easier. Just get two 4 pin fan splitters instead of 2 3 pin splitters. Your mobo already has all the necessary hardware for 5 channels mentioned above (http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1151/MAXIMUS_VIII_GENE/E10484_MAXIMUS_VIII_GENE_UM_WEB.pdf)
 


Which fan ports should I avoid using?

I read further into the manual and the pages around 3-38 were very useful. It looks like the 4 chassis fans have 1 profile, the CPU fan has 1 profile, the pump has 1 profile, and then I'm unsure what was going on with the 1 x 4-Pin CPU_OPT fan connector. I'm guessing that's under the CPU profile and is there in case you have something like a D14 air cooler with two fans on it?

I'm unsure exactly what you want me to do though with only two splitters. Do you want me to split two of the chassis fan headers so that there are now 6 inputs for the chassis fans instead of only 4? Then plug the case fan in to the CPU input and the pump into the pump input?
 
Actually, your mobo has almost all you need for what you want. But I think you are over-thinking what you want! Furthermore, doing this easily REQUIRES that ALL of your fans be of the PWM type (4-pin fans), and you'll need some very simple additional items.

FIRST, you need to understand fan controls. Everybody talks about fan SPEED control, because that is what we all see changing. But that is NOT really what is important, and that is not what a mobo automatic fan control system does. The real focus it TEMPERATURE of important components. A mobo actually runs TEMPERATURE control systems that manipulate fan speed as a tool, NOT as the final aim. Your mobo has at least two such systems, and can have more depending on how you configure them - your particular mobo has more abilities here than most.

EACH fan control loop operates this way. At the time of initial set-up it recognizes the particular hardware installed and sets a number of parameters for the loop appropriately. When running, it constantly uses the signal from a TEMPERATURE sensor to measure the temp of a key component it is focused on, compares that to the proper target temp for that, and uses the difference to set the speed of the fan that cools that component. If the temp rises it speeds up the fan; if the temp is unchanged, it leaves it as set; if the temp falls it slows down the fan. There is a max speed the fan can run, and if the temp cannot be kept below the component's max limit at full fan speed, the system will send out an alarm and take action to reduce performance and heat build-up. On the other end if the temp goes really low the fan will be reduced to minimum speed, but NOT turned off. There is no harm in running a fan slowly. Most importantly, if the fan's speed control is set too low it will stall and then there is NO cooling, and the fan will not re-start until its signal is increased by quite a bit. So it's better NOT to let the fan stall.

Normally there are two temperature control systems on a mobo. One is for the CPU, and the temp sensor for this is inside the CPU chip, built in by the CPU maker and fed out on one pin. This sensor guides the fan connected to the CPU_FAN connector, and in your case the CPU_OPT connector.

The second system is for case ventilation, and it is guided usually by a different sensor built into the mobo by its maker. It guides fans connected to the SYS_FAN ports.

Your mobo has more than these. It has four SYS_FAN ports and it appears (see your manual, pages 3-36 to 3-38) that EACH of these can be configured separately. Moreover, it has more than these two common temperature sensors. It has another in the PCH controller hardware, and an optional thermistor sensor on a cable that plugs into a mobo socket labeled T_SENSOR. It appears that for EACH of the four SYS_FAN ports you can select which temp sensor that control loop will use AND you can customize the relationships of temperature to fan speed IF you set that loop to the MANUAL temperature control profile. This gives you a lot of power to customize, BUT it means you will have to learn a lot, too. For each loop you customize (rather than leaving it in default Standard mode) you would have to know what temperature you are controlling, what its target should be, what its max and min temps should be, and some idea of how the fan speeds should be adjusted to get that to work.

OK, so it appears that you can set up custom cooling controls for the CPU AND for four other case ventilation systems. Now, how do you arrange for multiple fans on some or all of those separate control loops? The key is that you MUST be using 4-pin (PWM type) fans AND you MUST have each of your SYS_FAN ports set to PWM Mode, not to DC Mode. Then you'll need some simple PWM splitters and/or adapters. Your post suggests there are three different ways you want to connect things, so I'll address each. The guiding limit it that any mobo SYS_FAN port normally has only one connector but can support up to TWO fans using a splitter. It you want more than two fans on one port it cannot supply that much power and a different arrangement is needed - that's where we get to the adapter.

OK, so for the cases where only one fan is connected to a SYS_FAN port, there is no confusion or option - it's straightforward.

For using TWO fans on one SYS_FAN port you need a 4-pin Y-splitter like this:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812162026&cm_re=pwm_fan_splitter-_-12-162-026-_-Product

It sends power from that SYS_FAN port to both fans, along with the PWM control signal. Now, every fan generates its own speed signal as series of pulses it sends back to the mobo port on Pin #3, but only ONE fan can do this. So a good splitter simply does NOT send back the speed signal from one of its two fans, and that fan will never have its speed measured.

For the case of MORE than two fans on one SYS_FAN port, you need a 4-pin PWM adapter that is a little different. This is just a group of cables and looks like this.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812423166&cm_re=pwm_fan_splitter-_-12-423-166-_-Product

It has one connector that goes directly to a Molex 4-pin output connector from the PSU to get all the power needed for all the adapter's fans. It has one female 4-pin connector that plugs into the mobo SYS_FAN port. Then it has several (3 to 5, typically) male 4-pin fan output connectors. It supplies power to each fan from the PSU, not the mobo port. It supplies the PWM control signal from the mobo port to all of its fans. And it sends the speed pulse signal from ONE of its fans back to the mobo for measurement.

I emphasized the need for 4-pin fans for all this. The reason is simple. Of you plug a 3-pin fan into a 4-pin port operating on its normal PWM Mode, the fan will always run at full speed. A PWM Mode port cannot control the speed of a 3-pin fan.
 


I suppose that'll be just about it then. Just one more thing. Are you almost entirely sure that sub 1000 RPM will be enough for 720 mm worth of radiator to cool a 6600k and two 980 TI cards sufficiently at full load?
 


Thanks for all that information; it was a lot of help. My question to you after all of that is whether or not you're ABSOLUTELY SURE all four chassis fan connectors can be set to their own fan curve or temperature control.

Right here is my plan. I want all of them on < 1000 RPM at ALL TIMES for optimal silence, preferably more around 800. Like I said somewhere else, it'll be a 6600K and 2x 980 Ti cards I'm trying to cool. I'd love to make the +LOAD fans rev up to 800-1000 RPM very slowly if possible so that I never notice them coming on.
lFDrooX.png


If each chassis fan can be controlled independently, this is literally all I need.
 


Lets go back to my other post (http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-3008715/pwn-software-controlled-fan-hub.html#17698193)... why bother? You can't turn off the fans in normal cases, so why not just keep them all at a low level that is pretty much silent? at ~700rpm the whole lot will probably be under 22dB, and still be able to get rid of the ~450W average your system puts out (w/o overclock) when running full tilt. It's a hell of a lot easier than trying to deal with multiple fan control


Also, that is a horrible, horrible setup... your output exceeds your input normally, so dust up the wazoo...
You can try using the above method, but with the 360 fans connected to a separate output, with a profile dependent on temperature of probably the CPU (easiest) or GPUs (if you use program based control). As long as the total fan demand doesn't exceed 1A you can just use two splitters, but if it does then you'll need a special splitter that uses "external" power connection
 


I'd be a fool to not overclock with water-cooling. Both the CPU and GPU have excellent over-clocking ability.

I also realized a bit after making that post that the setup I chose does indeed make negative pressure instead of positive. I'm sure I'll figure out something to get the airflow going naturally with positive pressure.

This should do it. Airflow directly on to the PSU and bottom GPU shouldn't matter too much considering the PSU has its own cooling system and the GPUs are water-cooled. Might be able to optimize it a bit better, I dunno.
tZHxot2.png


I guess I can just mess around with that 120 radiator when I get all my parts and see what I can do with it.
 


PCPartPicker says each 980 Ti can require up to 250W while the CPU can require up to 91W although I'm not entirely sure if they'll every actually use that much. Regardless, that's a total of 591W I may need to dissipate though the radiators, not including over-clocking. I'm definitely going to be running the 980 Ti cards at the highest OC I can get them and I'll probably keep the CPU around 4.6 because I really don't need anything more than that and don't feel like messing with the numbers over-and-over to only get an extra .1-.2.
 


Well, at 1300RPM those 6 fans put together should be able to stay under 21dB (i.e. still whisper quiet and your ambient + pump noise will be higher) since each is only 19.8, and that would raise the carry capacity at 10C to over 500W and at 15C probably closer to 600W. Given http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/corsair-hydro-gfx-geforce-gtx-980-ti,4470-4.html, that should be enough without needing the additional radiator
 


It probably isn't going to matter. I'm sure all of that radiator can keep the temps of the two GPUs below 80 and I'm fine with that. I'd be super surprised if they ever even reach temps that high. If worse comes to worse, I could always add a 240/360 radiator standing upright inside the case.