[SOLVED] Rate my build (AMD)

Jun 13, 2019
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Currently I came up with given setup:
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X
GPU: MSI Radeon RX 5700 XT 8GB GDDR6
Motherboard: MSI MPG X570 GAMING PLUS
RAM: HyperX 32GB 3200MHz Fury CL16 (2x16GB)
PSU: be quiet! Straight Power 11 750W 80 Plus Gold
CASE: SilentiumPC Signum SG1X TG RGB

At the beginning I will use SSD from my current PC, but in a future I will buy M.2 drive with another pair of 16GB of RAM.

I apriciate any comments or suggestions. My budget is around 1500$ (~1350 euro).
 
Solution
Looks like a good build. As prices vary by country. I wouldn't know if that is the best you can get for your money. Nevertheless it's a nice setup.

CPU: You may want an aftermarket CPU cooler. Such as a Scythe Mugen Max, Thermalright Macho Direct or Noctua D14 for the CPU. It's not required. Just nice to reduce noise and improve cooling.

RAM: Careful with adding RAM later. As long as you get the exact same make and model. It usually works out. Sometimes there may be issues with speed, dual channel and timing when you mix RAM not bought as a factory matched set. As there may be slight differences. Even with the same make and model. A worst case is mixed RAM won't work together. I believe Kingston is still a first party manufacturer. It...
Looks like a good build. As prices vary by country. I wouldn't know if that is the best you can get for your money. Nevertheless it's a nice setup.

CPU: You may want an aftermarket CPU cooler. Such as a Scythe Mugen Max, Thermalright Macho Direct or Noctua D14 for the CPU. It's not required. Just nice to reduce noise and improve cooling.

RAM: Careful with adding RAM later. As long as you get the exact same make and model. It usually works out. Sometimes there may be issues with speed, dual channel and timing when you mix RAM not bought as a factory matched set. As there may be slight differences. Even with the same make and model. A worst case is mixed RAM won't work together. I believe Kingston is still a first party manufacturer. It shouldn't be as much of an issue with them as Corsair (for example).

SSD: Just be sure you get an NVMe M.2 not SATA M.2 if you want a performance boost from your existing SSD.

OS: Don't forget the cost of Windows. OEM licenses can be difficult to impossible to transfer. Assuming you aren't going with Linux or something more exotic.

Edit:
Case: Be aware.
  • That case has a 161mm limit for the CPU cooler. This will keep some of the big air models out of the running.
  • That case has a 160mm PSU length limit. The BeQuiet! Straight Power 11 is 170mm long.
 
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Solution
Jun 13, 2019
4
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Regarding aftermarket CPU cooler, I will first test out AMD box cooling and see how it's gonna perform, but I guess you are right guys. I think I'm gonna add it to "things to upgrade" list alongside with RAM and M.2.

Case: Be aware.
  • That case has a 161mm limit for the CPU cooler. This will keep some of the big air models out of the running.
  • That case has a 160mm PSU length limit. The BeQuiet! Straight Power 11 is 170mm long.
Totally forgot to check those. Thank you for pointing that out. I'm gonna go with SilentiumPC Armis AR7X TG RGB then, which is bigger and have much more space for PSU (220mm) and CPU cooling (178mm).

If you can, get your hands on a faster 2 x 8gb kit of 14 cas latency
I tend to run many virtual machines during my daily work and I'm currently struggling with 16GB of RAM, so that amount might be not enough and since CL14 is almost two times more expensive than CL16, I think I will stick with CL16, at least for now. Thank you for your suggestions.
 

King_V

Illustrious
Ambassador
Ah, ok, so, presumably, gaming AND work-related stuff. Then the extra RAM makes sense.

Looking at the video card makes me ask, though: What are the specs of your monitor? Specifically:
  • Resolution
  • Refresh rate
  • Does it have FreeSync, GSync, or neither
    • If FreeSync, what is the FreeSync Range?
Also, what is the capacity and type of the SSD you're going to start with?

Finally, there are some BeQuiet units that are good, but I don't know enough to say if the particular model you chose is one of them. I'd personally be more comfortable with:
  • Seasonic
    • FOCUS or PRIME models
  • Corsair
    • TX,
    • RMx
    • RMi
    • RM
    • HX
    • HXi
    • AX
    • AXi
 
Jun 13, 2019
4
0
10
Ah, ok, so, presumably, gaming AND work-related stuff. Then the extra RAM makes sense.

Looking at the video card makes me ask, though: What are the specs of your monitor? Specifically:
  • Resolution
  • Refresh rate
  • Does it have FreeSync, GSync, or neither
    • If FreeSync, what is the FreeSync Range?
Also, what is the capacity and type of the SSD you're going to start with?

Finally, there are some BeQuiet units that are good, but I don't know enough to say if the particular model you chose is one of them. I'd personally be more comfortable with:
  • Seasonic
    • FOCUS or PRIME models
  • Corsair
    • TX,
    • RMx
    • RMi
    • RM
    • HX
    • HXi
    • AX
    • AXi
I have two basic, full HD, 60hz monitors without free sync. I will definitely replace one of them after I build my setup.

Bequiet PSU was the first one which was suggested in some online power calculator. I'm lacking of experience to actually choose one on my own. Corsair RMx 750W 80 Plus Gold seems to be fine and it's even slightly cheaper :)

And the drive I'm gonna start with is Samsung 850 Evo 250GB
 
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Jun 13, 2019
4
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Tbh I haven't thought about it yet, but after quick research I would look for something similar to Monitor IIYAMA GB2760HSU. It's FHD, 144hz and have Free Sync support.
 

King_V

Illustrious
Ambassador
The reason I ask is that, with the monitors you have now (1920x1080 @ 60Hz), for gaming purposes the 5700XT is way overkill.

But take that same resolution up to 144Hz, and the 5700XT will have you covered. If I were to guesstimate, I would say the non-XT version would likely manage it as well, though I'd leave it to those a little more know as to whether the non-XT version could manage 144fps on most games at that resolution.

Or, of course, you could use either Framerate Target Control, or Chill, in the Radeon drivers to cap/limit-the-range of refresh rates, and still maintain smoothness.