Question RTC/UDP Shenanigans- DESPERATELY looking for a genius; WiFi hates voice calls ?

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Yes.

Be sure to keep track of what you change , where you make the change, along with the original and new value.

One change at a time.

Also, looking back at your "ipconfig /all" results - ensure that IPv4 is enabled.
 
Run and post the full results of "ipconfig /all" again without redacting any private IP addresses.

(Reference the Lifewire links for further explanation.)

IP addresses (along with macs) are a key part of network troubleshooting. There could be any number of mismatches due to router and/or other network configuration errors.

And if you do not have full admin rights to the router or any given network device you may not be able to make any network related configuration changes.

Take a screenshot of the IPv4 "Internet" screen along with the IPv4 settings. Post accordingly.
 
Ralston18 said:
Run and post the full results of "ipconfig /all" again without redacting any private IP addresses.

(Reference the Lifewire links for further explanation.)

IP addresses (along with macs) are a key part of network troubleshooting. There could be any number of mismatches due to router and/or other network configuration errors.

And if you do not have full admin rights to the router or any given network device you may not be able to make any network related configuration changes.

Take a screenshot of the IPv4 "Internet" screen along with the IPv4 settings. Post accordingly.
Click to expand...
oh, i just moved to mobile for bed, but I will do a scan soon when I can... Also, my stepdad has ordered yet another router, should I reset the settings on the D-link one before this arrives?? It hasn't arrived yet, but this is what he ordered https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KTXG8Q5?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title is it good?
 
Last edited:
The first and foremost question is whether or not that NetGear Router is supported by your ISP?

I would hope so but you/he should check the ISP's website list before doing anything.

And I believe that more investigating and troubleshooting is necessary to discover what the current problems may be.

At this time it is going to take a great deal of methodical and planned effort to figure things out. Still unsure about the extent of the full network, its' devices, and corresponding configuration settings.

Especially if the problems are configuration related. A "good" router of any make and model will be problematic if the router and other network devices are not correctly setup and configured.

As for resetting the D-Link: same difference. A reset simply returns that router to its' default/factory configuration. Any devices not set to match that configuration will not or no longer be able to join the network and/or obtain internet access. Things may get worse.

Besides "ipconfig /all" run "arp -a" as well via the Command Prompt. Post both results.

(Redact personal name information.)

You need to know (not necessarily to post) each network device, its' name, the IP address it is using, its' mac, and how the device is connected to the network (wired, wireless).

Also google something like "How to set up a home network" to look for tutorials etc.. Limit to the last year or so.

Read through or watch any that you feel comfortable with.

Objective simply to help you and your stepdad gain sense of the "big picture" and all that you must understand and do when managing your own home private network.
 
Ralston18 said:
The first and foremost question is whether or not that NetGear Router is supported by your ISP?

I would hope so but you/he should check the ISP's website list before doing anything.

And I believe that more investigating and troubleshooting is necessary to discover what the current problems may be.

At this time it is going to take a great deal of methodical and planned effort to figure things out. Still unsure about the extent of the full network, its' devices, and corresponding configuration settings.

Especially if the problems are configuration related. A "good" router of any make and model will be problematic if the router and other network devices are not correctly setup and configured.

As for resetting the D-Link: same difference. A reset simply returns that router to its' default/factory configuration. Any devices not set to match that configuration will not or no longer be able to join the network and/or obtain internet access. Things may get worse.

Besides "ipconfig /all" run "arp -a" as well via the Command Prompt. Post both results.

(Redact personal name information.)

You need to know (not necessarily to post) each network device, its' name, the IP address it is using, its' mac, and how the device is connected to the network (wired, wireless).

Also google something like "How to set up a home network" to look for tutorials etc.. Limit to the last year or so.

Read through or watch any that you feel comfortable with.

Objective simply to help you and your stepdad gain sense of the "big picture" and all that you must understand and do when managing your own home private network.
Click to expand...
Hi, sorry for the late reply again... We got the router the other day, and the internet works like normal, minus the calling issue still being there... I haven't changed any of the router's settings so far

Here's the command prompts, let me know if I need to censor / uncensor stuff..

Host Name . . . . . . . . . . . . : XXXX
Primary Dns Suffix . . . . . . . :
Node Type . . . . . . . . . . . . : Hybrid
IP Routing Enabled. . . . . . . . : No
WINS Proxy Enabled. . . . . . . . : No

Ethernet adapter Ethernet:

Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Realtek PCIe GbE Family Controller
Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 08-BF-B8-12-51-E0
DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : Yes
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes
Link-local IPv6 Address . . . . . : fe80::67f7:8165:bea4:467c%7(Preferred)
IPv4 Address. . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.15(Preferred)
Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.255.0
Lease Obtained. . . . . . . . . . : Thursday, October 24, 2024 6:19:22 PM
Lease Expires . . . . . . . . . . : Tuesday, October 29, 2024 4:30:28 AM
Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.1
DHCP Server . . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.1
DHCPv6 IAID . . . . . . . . . . . : 118013880
DHCPv6 Client DUID. . . . . . . . : 00-01-00-01-2C-49-A9-FE-08-BF-B8-12-51-E0
DNS Servers . . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.1
NetBIOS over Tcpip. . . . . . . . : Enabled


---

Interface: 192.168.1.15 --- 0x7
Internet Address Physical Address Type
192.168.1.1 54-07-7d-16-98-4d dynamic
192.168.1.4 00-80-92-7d-de-59 dynamic
192.168.1.5 18-48-be-a2-18-ab dynamic
192.168.1.8 7c-61-66-4f-d9-d4 dynamic
192.168.1.10 c4-04-15-51-47-c4 dynamic
192.168.1.11 0c-43-f9-50-8d-ad dynamic
192.168.1.13 50-46-5d-a3-35-38 dynamic
192.168.1.255 ff-ff-ff-ff-ff-ff static
224.0.0.XXXX 01-00-5e-00-00-16 static
224.0.0.XXXX 01-00-5e-00-00-fb static
224.0.0.XXXX 01-00-5e-00-00-fc static
224.XXXX 01-00-5e-00-02-3c static
239.XXXX 01-00-5e-7f-ff-fa static
255.255.255.255 ff-ff-ff-ff-ff-ff static
 
Disable IPv6

Change the DNS Servers to Google' 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4

(There are other DNS Servers that can be used - for now, just use Google.)

I counted (via arp -a) seven network devices using 192.168.1.X using dynamic addressing. (DHCP). Your computer would be #8.

No duplicate IP's addresses or MACs noted.

Are all network deviced accounted for: no "extra" devices that you do not recognize and no missing network devices? Be they wired or wireless.

What is the DHCP IP address range allowed to the router?

Have you configured any devices with a static IP address?

Are you able to ping each of the listed IP addresses?

I need to go back and re-read a bit....

However, FYI and something to think about in the meantime.

https://www.makeuseof.com/windows-roaming-aggressiveness-guide/

Also: on the router. Leave QoS disabled.
 
IPV6 shows as disabled in settings..?
https://imgur.com/yCPxCDH
View: https://imgur.com/yCPxCDH


Which DNS settings do I go to? There are many
https://imgur.com/to8fL2A
View: https://imgur.com/to8fL2A
&
https://imgur.com/15XLLpP
View: https://imgur.com/15XLLpP


Here's also a device list :vendredi:
https://imgur.com/miDmnFF
View: https://imgur.com/miDmnFF


DHCP IP... How do I check that?

what do you mean by configure? o: Also I'm not sure about pinging (or how to)

QoS is also disabled 👍

Would I need roaming aggressiveness?? My speeds are fine, it's just the UDP protocall being funky on my tablet..
 
Difficult to determine much at all.

You redacted out the private network IP addresses and MACs.

And the current DNS Server IP addresses.

Suggestions:

Ensure that no other devices are using the same IP address.

= = = =

All other devices working and communicating as expected and required - correct?

If so - leave roaming agressiveness alone...

If it is only the tablet (confirm which tablet) being funky then look at that tablet's configuration and compare that configuration to other devices where all is working.

UDP is going out of my comfort zones with respect to many of the details, etc..

FYI:

https://www.geeksforgeeks.org/user-datagram-protocol-udp/

Just for some background information.

There are various ways to check and test UDP.

Ideally targeting the tablet of concern.
 
Ralston18 said:
Difficult to determine much at all.

You redacted out the private network IP addresses and MACs.

And the current DNS Server IP addresses.

Suggestions:

Ensure that no other devices are using the same IP address.

= = = =

All other devices working and communicating as expected and required - correct?

If so - leave roaming agressiveness alone...

If it is only the tablet (confirm which tablet) being funky then look at that tablet's configuration and compare that configuration to other devices where all is working.

UDP is going out of my comfort zones with respect to many of the details, etc..

FYI:

https://www.geeksforgeeks.org/user-datagram-protocol-udp/

Just for some background information.

There are various ways to check and test UDP.

Ideally targeting the tablet of concern.
Click to expand...
Hi again, sorry for my late reply 🙇‍♀️ ... I haven't changed any settings, also

It's not just my tablet like I said, it's my mom's phone also... I looked at the article and I'm not sure how to troubleshoot exactly, but
"VoIP (Voice over Internet Protocol) services, such as Skype and WhatsApp, use UDP for real-time voice communication. The delay in voice communication can be noticeable if packets are delayed due to congestion control, so UDP is used to ensure fast and efficient data transmission" Definitely what we're looking at...

Amongst searching about my problem, someone had a similar issue years ago, and someone mentioned there possibly being a "NAT issue" rather than the ISP blocking it, maybe my case is the same, because I'm still able to use call functions normally connected to Ethernet. If the ISP was really fully blocking it, I wouldn't be able to, right?

Now, what is NAT??? Does it apply to wireless devices?
 
NAT - more than I can explain or type... :)

Start here:

https://computer.howstuffworks.com/nat.htm

As a general observation the problem(s) could be due to "double NAT".

https://www.nextiva.com/support/articles/what-is-double-nat.html

Reading back, my thought is that you are now likely have a far better understanding of your network, its's devices, and general configuration.

The two links above may help you understand more about what might be happening and, more importantly, find and fix the problem.

And there are many other similar explanations and tutorials online.

Just do not be tempted into downloading any apps etc. claiming to find and fix the problem.

Likewise, stay out of the registry.
 
Ralston18 said:
NAT - more than I can explain or type... :)

Start here:

https://computer.howstuffworks.com/nat.htm

As a general observation the problem(s) could be due to "double NAT".

https://www.nextiva.com/support/articles/what-is-double-nat.html

Reading back, my thought is that you are now likely have a far better understanding of your network, its's devices, and general configuration.

The two links above may help you understand more about what might be happening and, more importantly, find and fix the problem.

And there are many other similar explanations and tutorials online.

Just do not be tempted into downloading any apps etc. claiming to find and fix the problem.

Likewise, stay out of the registry.
Click to expand...
I read through most of it, I didn't understand it entirely, but I did google one thing to do when having a double NAT is that some people like to enable Access Mode on their router (or AP mode in my case) ...That was a huge mistake... I basically got entirely booted offline and had to factory reset everything 😵😵😵😵😵😵

I'm back on my wifi now but I guess there's that lesson learned... There's also a bridge mode option, but I am kinda refusing to do anything now in that setting after what just happened
 
Unfortunately, such things happen and you and/or your actions are not necessarily to blame.

There is a considerable amount of misinformation on the internet and in some cases is based on the general and not the specific.

Overall, it can still be sorted out To do that you need an accurate and fuller understanding of your network and the all of the network devices - wired and wireless.

The only way that I know to do that is with some sketch or diagram presenting the devices, their respective IP addresses, and to some extent the device macs. (macs may or may not be critical at first).

My suggestion is to to get all devices turned on, wait awhile so all can get connected (if they do) and then capture the Nighthawk settings as you did in your post #110.

Do not delete/redact the device IP addresses. Those IP addresses are all (or should be) in one of the private IP address ranges used by thousands of small network. Your Nighthawk router uses the commonly used default value of 192.168.1.1 as does my Linksys router. All of my devices are between 192.168.1.1 and 192.168.1.254. I use selected IP addresses for static devices and a limited range for DHCP devices. Be any given device wired or wireless.

All connected devices must be using IP addresses between 192.168.1.2 and 192.168.1.255 (subnet 255.255.255.0) 192.168.1.0 and 192.168.1.255 should not be being used (non-routable).

FYI from Lifewire:

https://www.lifewire.com/what-is-a-public-ip-address-2625974

https://www.lifewire.com/what-is-a-private-ip-address-2625970

Both links are excellent explanations and tutorials with respect to private IP addresses.

You can easily find other similar links.

PRIVACY:

What you do not want to reveal is your public IP address. Nor do you want to show the full name of any device on the network if that name could potentially reveal someone's identify., MACs are a concern for some folks but that can be mitigated by redacting the first three hexidecimal pairs of the mac address.

You can use "What is my IP" to learn your Public IP address. Generally stays the same but can change.



More homework:

https://www.howtogeek.com/764868/what-is-a-mac-address-and-how-does-it-work/

You need to ensure that on your network there are no devices using the same IP address. Most devices wanting to join the network will request a DHCP IP address from the router (and there should only be one router) and be provided a DHCP IP address from the DHCP IP address range allowed to the router.

End users can control that range of addresses plus use other IP addresses outside of that range for devices that need or require a static (does not change) IP address. Printers, NAS, scanners, Access Points, etc..

Without explicitly knowing what was done when you attempted to enable Access mode not much can be said about what happened. However it is very likely that you changed, deleted, or duplicated some IP address and the router/network got confused. When you reset everything all went back to factory defaults and there were, for example, no duplicate IP addresses and/or macs.

Factory resets are a ready way to recover a "confused" network. Trade-off being that unless you specifically went back to the router and changed the admin name and password your network may be wide open to others who know those default values and how to use them to gain network access.

Another thing: Change the DNS Server IP addreses to Google 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4. There are other options but Google is commonly used. Sometimes the DNS is the ISP, sometimes the network router. Varies.

I use Google.

What also can prove helpful is to disable IPv6.

Unless there are specific and known reasons for changing MAC's leave them alone. Duplicate macs on a network cause problems.

Take some time to regroup. Read the links and use the Nighthawk's device list or even your own sketch to show your network.

For each device ensure that you know its's IP address be it a static IP address or a DHCP IP address (which can and will change with each time the device joins the network.
 
Ralston18 said:
Unfortunately, such things happen and you and/or your actions are not necessarily to blame.

There is a considerable amount of misinformation on the internet and in some cases is based on the general and not the specific.

Overall, it can still be sorted out To do that you need an accurate and fuller understanding of your network and the all of the network devices - wired and wireless.

The only way that I know to do that is with some sketch or diagram presenting the devices, their respective IP addresses, and to some extent the device macs. (macs may or may not be critical at first).

My suggestion is to to get all devices turned on, wait awhile so all can get connected (if they do) and then capture the Nighthawk settings as you did in your post #110.

Do not delete/redact the device IP addresses. Those IP addresses are all (or should be) in one of the private IP address ranges used by thousands of small network. Your Nighthawk router uses the commonly used default value of 192.168.1.1 as does my Linksys router. All of my devices are between 192.168.1.1 and 192.168.1.254. I use selected IP addresses for static devices and a limited range for DHCP devices. Be any given device wired or wireless.

All connected devices must be using IP addresses between 192.168.1.2 and 192.168.1.255 (subnet 255.255.255.0) 192.168.1.0 and 192.168.1.255 should not be being used (non-routable).

FYI from Lifewire:

https://www.lifewire.com/what-is-a-public-ip-address-2625974

https://www.lifewire.com/what-is-a-private-ip-address-2625970

Both links are excellent explanations and tutorials with respect to private IP addresses.

You can easily find other similar links.

PRIVACY:

What you do not want to reveal is your public IP address. Nor do you want to show the full name of any device on the network if that name could potentially reveal someone's identify., MACs are a concern for some folks but that can be mitigated by redacting the first three hexidecimal pairs of the mac address.

You can use "What is my IP" to learn your Public IP address. Generally stays the same but can change.



More homework:

https://www.howtogeek.com/764868/what-is-a-mac-address-and-how-does-it-work/

You need to ensure that on your network there are no devices using the same IP address. Most devices wanting to join the network will request a DHCP IP address from the router (and there should only be one router) and be provided a DHCP IP address from the DHCP IP address range allowed to the router.

End users can control that range of addresses plus use other IP addresses outside of that range for devices that need or require a static (does not change) IP address. Printers, NAS, scanners, Access Points, etc..

Without explicitly knowing what was done when you attempted to enable Access mode not much can be said about what happened. However it is very likely that you changed, deleted, or duplicated some IP address and the router/network got confused. When you reset everything all went back to factory defaults and there were, for example, no duplicate IP addresses and/or macs.

Factory resets are a ready way to recover a "confused" network. Trade-off being that unless you specifically went back to the router and changed the admin name and password your network may be wide open to others who know those default values and how to use them to gain network access.

Another thing: Change the DNS Server IP addreses to Google 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4. There are other options but Google is commonly used. Sometimes the DNS is the ISP, sometimes the network router. Varies.

I use Google.

What also can prove helpful is to disable IPv6.

Unless there are specific and known reasons for changing MAC's leave them alone. Duplicate macs on a network cause problems.

Take some time to regroup. Read the links and use the Nighthawk's device list or even your own sketch to show your network.

For each device ensure that you know its's IP address be it a static IP address or a DHCP IP address (which can and will change with each time the device joins the network.
Click to expand...
Ahh, okay... just to make sure, can you tell me which of these to censor exactly on the MAC? I'm more of a visual learner..
https://imgur.com/xSqfciA
(Which of the example 9s would be censored)
View: https://imgur.com/xSqfciA


Despite factory resetting, IPV6 says it's disabled still, which is cool I guess... (But my problem isn't fixed)

I will say... we DO have another router, but it's in the garage, the main one is in the house. The router in the garage is another network and uses a different password but is still on the same ISP obviously. We never had any issues having to do with it when we used Centurylink so I don't know if that would really be the problem, but I guess it's worth noting?
 
StrawberryCookie said:
Ahh, okay... just to make sure, can you tell me which of these to censor exactly on the MAC? I'm more of a visual learner..
https://imgur.com/xSqfciA
(Which of the example 9s would be censored)
View: https://imgur.com/xSqfciA
Click to expand...
I have stayed out this thread mostly because this is likely something related to the application you are running and not a gernic VoIP issue. Many things that carry voice over IP do not use the standards in VoIP.

Key is no mac address can be accessed from outside your house. In addition they are not actually unique. If you were to every work for a large company that buys thousands of identical laptops you will find duplicates. You most times can change the mac address on any equipment to anything you want. The only one I know you can't change is a cable modem since the ISP uses that to know which device is actually being paid for but this is only visible to the ISP equipment.

Although not a direct hacker threat the mac address on a portable device like a cell phone is the only one of concern. Since you are now outside your house and your phone wifi may attempt to connect to various public wifi. This allows you to be tracked as you move around. Many phones like apple now use a different mac address every time they connect to wifi to prevent this.

For forums like this the only thing that you really need to censor is your public IP. Even this is marginal. All IP are being constantly scanned by hackers. They are not going to search a forum to get one. In addition most hackers are in it for money and it is not worth their time to attack a home users router/pc.

It would be more did you piss someone off enough on this forum that they would target you. This is a more common thing say in first person shooter games where someone get mad because of something done in the game and attempts to take a persons internet connection down. There have been cases where they find out the person actual home address and make false calls to to the police.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ralston18
In agreement with @bill001g.

= = = =

This new posting:

"The router in the garage is another network and uses a different password but is still on the same ISP obviously."

Are you actually paying for two services? Or has someone attempted to connect the two networks (House and Garage) in some manner?

Not uncommon for end users to mistakely attempt to create a separate network of some sort for guests, tenants, their own dedicated gaming connection, personal business reasons, etc. and create problems.

Plus likely running afoul of their ISP End User agreements/contracts.

As for a different password: May be moot if the password is the name of a pet or some other word that can easily be figured out by those who know you. (E.g. "Strawberry" or "Cookie" may be good guesses.)

And if the router or routers have been reset then the router defaults back to the factory admin and password settings which are well-published and well known. Anyone with physical access to a router can reset the router (or perhaps modem/router). Default values for admin and password may even be printed on the router's labling.

Or worse, if indeed were changed, then taped on the device by the admin person. So if either router (make and models?) was reset and no one changed the default login values then the network is wide open.

And if the wireless security configuration is weak then people could get on to the network without much of a problem.

= = = =

lf there are indeed two separate networks then any devices in the "House" network should not appear in the "Garage" network. And vice versa. If there is network (House) and a subnet (Garage) then there should only be one router for most home network environments. And all must be properly configured.

And you certainly should look for some physical connection paths(s). People often believe that they can simply plug into some existing network and create their own network. They use network switches, coax splitters, etc. to create a physical path between the networks. Often in some roundabout manner either via physical connections and/or pretense (spoofing). Conflicts and problems result. Even network loops. [Port to port connections must be checked.]

You would do some sort of discovery to determine if any such sharing or overlaps exist. Looking for duplicate IP addresses and macs is one way of working out what devices are on any given network.

However that discovery processes is weakened if, as posted above (#117), there are legitimate mac duplications, mac and IP address spoofing, etc.. either in place or were attempted in the past.

I find macs most useful as a means to discover the manufacturer/nature of unidentified devices using the following link (there are others):

https://macvendors.com/

[Note: Does not always provide meaningful information. I know of a network with two 2.4 wireless devices that continually appear/reappear as being on the network per the router's graphical display. There is not any other supporting data that the devices are actually on the network and mac searches result in effectively being "No manufacturer". More will be done in an attempt to figure what those devices may be or some other reason for the reappearances.]

Again, I must stress the need for a full network diagram or sketch to help you understand your "House" network.

Knowing the physical connections, the wireless connections, the host names, device IP addresses (DHCP and Static) and subnet masks, and the macs are simply tools that can be used to help you underestand your network. Now that you have "networks" - "House" and "Garage". All the more problematic.

Lastly (per @bill001g) :

"I have stayed out this thread mostly because this is likely something related to the application you are running and not a gernic VoIP issue. Many things that carry voice over IP do not use the standards in VoIP."

Once you (Strawberry) understand more about your network and have a sense of all of the legitimately connected and properly configured devices of any sort it become fairly straight forward to discover the offending device by elimination or other means. Then, after that, discover the offending application being run by that device. Consider that the device owner/user may not even be aware that that application is even running....

With more information and background about the network then it becomes more likely that someone (such as @bill001g and others) will spot something. And post accordingly.

This thread is continuing to grow and very few will be willing to go back and read all of the preceding posts.

The immediate objective is to narrow this down to some simply stated problem: for example - "all works unless Device X is connected" Which is inherently a likely over-simplication in itself....
 
Ralston18 said:
In agreement with @bill001g.

= = = =

This new posting:

"The router in the garage is another network and uses a different password but is still on the same ISP obviously."

Are you actually paying for two services? Or has someone attempted to connect the two networks (House and Garage) in some manner?

Not uncommon for end users to mistakely attempt to create a separate network of some sort for guests, tenants, their own dedicated gaming connection, personal business reasons, etc. and create problems.

Plus likely running afoul of their ISP End User agreements/contracts.

As for a different password: May be moot if the password is the name of a pet or some other word that can easily be figured out by those who know you. (E.g. "Strawberry" or "Cookie" may be good guesses.)

And if the router or routers have been reset then the router defaults back to the factory admin and password settings which are well-published and well known. Anyone with physical access to a router can reset the router (or perhaps modem/router). Default values for admin and password may even be printed on the router's labling.

Or worse, if indeed were changed, then taped on the device by the admin person. So if either router (make and models?) was reset and no one changed the default login values then the network is wide open.

And if the wireless security configuration is weak then people could get on to the network without much of a problem.

= = = =

lf there are indeed two separate networks then any devices in the "House" network should not appear in the "Garage" network. And vice versa. If there is network (House) and a subnet (Garage) then there should only be one router for most home network environments. And all must be properly configured.

And you certainly should look for some physical connection paths(s). People often believe that they can simply plug into some existing network and create their own network. They use network switches, coax splitters, etc. to create a physical path between the networks. Often in some roundabout manner either via physical connections and/or pretense (spoofing). Conflicts and problems result. Even network loops. [Port to port connections must be checked.]

You would do some sort of discovery to determine if any such sharing or overlaps exist. Looking for duplicate IP addresses and macs is one way of working out what devices are on any given network.

However that discovery processes is weakened if, as posted above (#117), there are legitimate mac duplications, mac and IP address spoofing, etc.. either in place or were attempted in the past.

I find macs most useful as a means to discover the manufacturer/nature of unidentified devices using the following link (there are others):

https://macvendors.com/

[Note: Does not always provide meaningful information. I know of a network with two 2.4 wireless devices that continually appear/reappear as being on the network per the router's graphical display. There is not any other supporting data that the devices are actually on the network and mac searches result in effectively being "No manufacturer". More will be done in an attempt to figure what those devices may be or some other reason for the reappearances.]

Again, I must stress the need for a full network diagram or sketch to help you understand your "House" network.

Knowing the physical connections, the wireless connections, the host names, device IP addresses (DHCP and Static) and subnet masks, and the macs are simply tools that can be used to help you underestand your network. Now that you have "networks" - "House" and "Garage". All the more problematic.

Lastly (per @bill001g) :

"I have stayed out this thread mostly because this is likely something related to the application you are running and not a gernic VoIP issue. Many things that carry voice over IP do not use the standards in VoIP."

Once you (Strawberry) understand more about your network and have a sense of all of the legitimately connected and properly configured devices of any sort it become fairly straight forward to discover the offending device by elimination or other means. Then, after that, discover the offending application being run by that device. Consider that the device owner/user may not even be aware that that application is even running....

With more information and background about the network then it becomes more likely that someone (such as @bill001g and others) will spot something. And post accordingly.

This thread is continuing to grow and very few will be willing to go back and read all of the preceding posts.

The immediate objective is to narrow this down to some simply stated problem: for example - "all works unless Device X is connected" Which is inherently a likely over-simplication in itself....
Click to expand...
No, it's under the same internet. Like whenever the internet went out, so would that router's connection in the garage

It's in the garage because my stepdad is in there a lot, and the signal is stronger in there with a 2nd router instead of relying on signal strength from the garage to the router that's inside our house / vise versa (If you tried to connect to the wifi on the router in the garage from the house, the signal strength is bad due to the distance and can drop easily)

I guess I forgot to mention, when factory resetting the house router, I put a password on it that is different from the default one it gave us 👍 It's got numbers and symbols and all that stuff, plus we don't really live around many people anyway. We have 2 neighbors next door that are trusted friends and aren't even on the same service we're on

I'll try my best to make a chart of the connections list sometime soon hopefully, I do know that the only things that are directly connected to the router physically are me and my stepdad's computers with the ethernet cord, if that helps :ouimaitre:

I still don't understand why it would suddenly stop working properly with Discord, Skype, and even Instagram calls, we didn't change any devices hooked up in our house... Literally the problem started when we got new internet service and a new router 🙁 And it's weird because I have some friends who use Spectrum that don't have problems. One of my other friends had a similar problem to where he couldn't connect to Discord calls after he got new internet, but it solved itself randomly after a couple months (It was a different ISP though)
 
As I now understand it all then:

Again, there should only be one router providing IP addresses to network devices.

Any other routers (or modem/routers) being used should have their router functions disabled.

And likely should be configured as an Access Point.

Which presents its' own set of problems with respect to the configuration itself plus the stated signal strengh problems. Distances, what is in between garage and house....

= = = =

Rough line diagram now being something like:

ISP -----> Modem -----> Garage Router ------>House Router ------> Wired and wireless network devices.

You will need to edit and correct my rough diagram and fill in the details. Change the device order (if necessary) to show the current order of the connections involved.

As I understand your preceding post there are only two devices (your and your stepdad's computers) using wired (Ethernet) connections from the House(?) router. All other 20 or so devices being wireless....

You can use ~~~~ > to indicate a wireless connection path.

How is the Garage router connected and where? Incoming connections and outgoing connections?

Especially the incoming connection from the ISP (coax, DSL, fiber). No splitters, patch panels, etc.. Correct?

Device make and models, types of cable connections, ports (WAN, LAN, and LAN Port #'s), IP addresses being used, etc...
 
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