Question RTC/UDP Shenanigans- DESPERATELY looking for a genius; WiFi hates voice calls ?

[Ralston18]

I would start with "3" and disable IPv6.

Once IPv6 is disabled then all other relevant configuration settings with respect to IPv6 become moot.

 

[StrawberryCookie]

I would start with "3" and disable IPv6.

Once IPv6 is disabled then all other relevant configuration settings with respect to IPv6 become moot.

Disable the "Enable Automatic IPv6 Address Assignment:" box?

 

[Ralston18]

Yes.

Be sure to keep track of what you change , where you make the change, along with the original and new value.

One change at a time.

Also, looking back at your "ipconfig /all" results - ensure that IPv4 is enabled.

 

[StrawberryCookie]

Yes.

Be sure to keep track of what you change , where you make the change, along with the original and new value.

One change at a time.

Also, looking back at your "ipconfig /all" results - ensure that IPv4 is enabled.

Okay... I turned off Enable Automatic IPv6 Address Assignment and it seems to be on still...? Also yes, IPV4 is still enabled

https://imgur.com/a/Z4viiu9

View: https://imgur.com/a/Z4viiu9

 

[Ralston18]

Run and post the full results of "ipconfig /all" again without redacting any private IP addresses.

(Reference the Lifewire links for further explanation.)

IP addresses (along with macs) are a key part of network troubleshooting. There could be any number of mismatches due to router and/or other network configuration errors.

And if you do not have full admin rights to the router or any given network device you may not be able to make any network related configuration changes.

Take a screenshot of the IPv4 "Internet" screen along with the IPv4 settings. Post accordingly.

 

[StrawberryCookie]

Run and post the full results of "ipconfig /all" again without redacting any private IP addresses.

(Reference the Lifewire links for further explanation.)

IP addresses (along with macs) are a key part of network troubleshooting. There could be any number of mismatches due to router and/or other network configuration errors.

And if you do not have full admin rights to the router or any given network device you may not be able to make any network related configuration changes.

Take a screenshot of the IPv4 "Internet" screen along with the IPv4 settings. Post accordingly.

oh, i just moved to mobile for bed, but I will do a scan soon when I can... Also, my stepdad has ordered yet another router, should I reset the settings on the D-link one before this arrives?? It hasn't arrived yet, but this is what he ordered https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KTXG8Q5?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title is it good?

 

[Ralston18]

The first and foremost question is whether or not that NetGear Router is supported by your ISP?

I would hope so but you/he should check the ISP's website list before doing anything.

And I believe that more investigating and troubleshooting is necessary to discover what the current problems may be.

At this time it is going to take a great deal of methodical and planned effort to figure things out. Still unsure about the extent of the full network, its' devices, and corresponding configuration settings.

Especially if the problems are configuration related. A "good" router of any make and model will be problematic if the router and other network devices are not correctly setup and configured.

As for resetting the D-Link: same difference. A reset simply returns that router to its' default/factory configuration. Any devices not set to match that configuration will not or no longer be able to join the network and/or obtain internet access. Things may get worse.

Besides "ipconfig /all" run "arp -a" as well via the Command Prompt. Post both results.

(Redact personal name information.)

You need to know (not necessarily to post) each network device, its' name, the IP address it is using, its' mac, and how the device is connected to the network (wired, wireless).

Also google something like "How to set up a home network" to look for tutorials etc.. Limit to the last year or so.

Read through or watch any that you feel comfortable with.

Objective simply to help you and your stepdad gain sense of the "big picture" and all that you must understand and do when managing your own home private network.

 

[StrawberryCookie]

The first and foremost question is whether or not that NetGear Router is supported by your ISP?

I would hope so but you/he should check the ISP's website list before doing anything.

And I believe that more investigating and troubleshooting is necessary to discover what the current problems may be.

At this time it is going to take a great deal of methodical and planned effort to figure things out. Still unsure about the extent of the full network, its' devices, and corresponding configuration settings.

Especially if the problems are configuration related. A "good" router of any make and model will be problematic if the router and other network devices are not correctly setup and configured.

As for resetting the D-Link: same difference. A reset simply returns that router to its' default/factory configuration. Any devices not set to match that configuration will not or no longer be able to join the network and/or obtain internet access. Things may get worse.

Besides "ipconfig /all" run "arp -a" as well via the Command Prompt. Post both results.

(Redact personal name information.)

You need to know (not necessarily to post) each network device, its' name, the IP address it is using, its' mac, and how the device is connected to the network (wired, wireless).

Also google something like "How to set up a home network" to look for tutorials etc.. Limit to the last year or so.

Read through or watch any that you feel comfortable with.

Objective simply to help you and your stepdad gain sense of the "big picture" and all that you must understand and do when managing your own home private network.

Hi, sorry for the late reply again... We got the router the other day, and the internet works like normal, minus the calling issue still being there... I haven't changed any of the router's settings so far

Here's the command prompts, let me know if I need to censor / uncensor stuff..

Host Name . . . . . . . . . . . . : XXXX
Primary Dns Suffix . . . . . . . :
Node Type . . . . . . . . . . . . : Hybrid
IP Routing Enabled. . . . . . . . : No
WINS Proxy Enabled. . . . . . . . : No

Ethernet adapter Ethernet:

Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Realtek PCIe GbE Family Controller
Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 08-BF-B8-12-51-E0
DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : Yes
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes
Link-local IPv6 Address . . . . . : fe80::67f7:8165:bea4:467c%7(Preferred)
IPv4 Address. . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.15(Preferred)
Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.255.0
Lease Obtained. . . . . . . . . . : Thursday, October 24, 2024 6:19:22 PM
Lease Expires . . . . . . . . . . : Tuesday, October 29, 2024 4:30:28 AM
Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.1
DHCP Server . . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.1
DHCPv6 IAID . . . . . . . . . . . : 118013880
DHCPv6 Client DUID. . . . . . . . : 00-01-00-01-2C-49-A9-FE-08-BF-B8-12-51-E0
DNS Servers . . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.1
NetBIOS over Tcpip. . . . . . . . : Enabled


---

Interface: 192.168.1.15 --- 0x7
Internet Address Physical Address Type
192.168.1.1 54-07-7d-16-98-4d dynamic
192.168.1.4 00-80-92-7d-de-59 dynamic
192.168.1.5 18-48-be-a2-18-ab dynamic
192.168.1.8 7c-61-66-4f-d9-d4 dynamic
192.168.1.10 c4-04-15-51-47-c4 dynamic
192.168.1.11 0c-43-f9-50-8d-ad dynamic
192.168.1.13 50-46-5d-a3-35-38 dynamic
192.168.1.255 ff-ff-ff-ff-ff-ff static
224.0.0.XXXX 01-00-5e-00-00-16 static
224.0.0.XXXX 01-00-5e-00-00-fb static
224.0.0.XXXX 01-00-5e-00-00-fc static
224.XXXX 01-00-5e-00-02-3c static
239.XXXX 01-00-5e-7f-ff-fa static
255.255.255.255 ff-ff-ff-ff-ff-ff static

 

[Ralston18]

Disable IPv6

Change the DNS Servers to Google' 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4

(There are other DNS Servers that can be used - for now, just use Google.)

I counted (via arp -a) seven network devices using 192.168.1.X using dynamic addressing. (DHCP). Your computer would be #8.

No duplicate IP's addresses or MACs noted.

Are all network deviced accounted for: no "extra" devices that you do not recognize and no missing network devices? Be they wired or wireless.

What is the DHCP IP address range allowed to the router?

Have you configured any devices with a static IP address?

Are you able to ping each of the listed IP addresses?

I need to go back and re-read a bit....

However, FYI and something to think about in the meantime.

https://www.makeuseof.com/windows-roaming-aggressiveness-guide/

Also: on the router. Leave QoS disabled.

 

[StrawberryCookie]

IPV6 shows as disabled in settings..?

https://imgur.com/yCPxCDH

View: https://imgur.com/yCPxCDH


Which DNS settings do I go to? There are many

https://imgur.com/to8fL2A

View: https://imgur.com/to8fL2A
&

https://imgur.com/15XLLpP

View: https://imgur.com/15XLLpP


Here's also a device list

https://imgur.com/miDmnFF

View: https://imgur.com/miDmnFF


DHCP IP... How do I check that?

what do you mean by configure? o: Also I'm not sure about pinging (or how to)

QoS is also disabled 👍

Would I need roaming aggressiveness?? My speeds are fine, it's just the UDP protocall being funky on my tablet..

 

[Ralston18]

Difficult to determine much at all.

You redacted out the private network IP addresses and MACs.

And the current DNS Server IP addresses.

Suggestions:

Ensure that no other devices are using the same IP address.

= = = =

All other devices working and communicating as expected and required - correct?

If so - leave roaming agressiveness alone...

If it is only the tablet (confirm which tablet) being funky then look at that tablet's configuration and compare that configuration to other devices where all is working.

UDP is going out of my comfort zones with respect to many of the details, etc..

FYI:

https://www.geeksforgeeks.org/user-datagram-protocol-udp/

Just for some background information.

There are various ways to check and test UDP.

Ideally targeting the tablet of concern.

 

[StrawberryCookie]

Difficult to determine much at all.

You redacted out the private network IP addresses and MACs.

And the current DNS Server IP addresses.

Suggestions:

Ensure that no other devices are using the same IP address.

= = = =

All other devices working and communicating as expected and required - correct?

If so - leave roaming agressiveness alone...

If it is only the tablet (confirm which tablet) being funky then look at that tablet's configuration and compare that configuration to other devices where all is working.

UDP is going out of my comfort zones with respect to many of the details, etc..

FYI:

https://www.geeksforgeeks.org/user-datagram-protocol-udp/

Just for some background information.

There are various ways to check and test UDP.

Ideally targeting the tablet of concern.

Hi again, sorry for my late reply 🙇‍♀️ ... I haven't changed any settings, also

It's not just my tablet like I said, it's my mom's phone also... I looked at the article and I'm not sure how to troubleshoot exactly, but
"VoIP (Voice over Internet Protocol) services, such as Skype and WhatsApp, use UDP for real-time voice communication. The delay in voice communication can be noticeable if packets are delayed due to congestion control, so UDP is used to ensure fast and efficient data transmission" Definitely what we're looking at...

Amongst searching about my problem, someone had a similar issue years ago, and someone mentioned there possibly being a "NAT issue" rather than the ISP blocking it, maybe my case is the same, because I'm still able to use call functions normally connected to Ethernet. If the ISP was really fully blocking it, I wouldn't be able to, right?

Now, what is NAT??? Does it apply to wireless devices?

 

[Ralston18]

NAT - more than I can explain or type...

Start here:

https://computer.howstuffworks.com/nat.htm

As a general observation the problem(s) could be due to "double NAT".

https://www.nextiva.com/support/articles/what-is-double-nat.html

Reading back, my thought is that you are now likely have a far better understanding of your network, its's devices, and general configuration.

The two links above may help you understand more about what might be happening and, more importantly, find and fix the problem.

And there are many other similar explanations and tutorials online.

Just do not be tempted into downloading any apps etc. claiming to find and fix the problem.

Likewise, stay out of the registry.

 

[StrawberryCookie]

NAT - more than I can explain or type...

Start here:

https://computer.howstuffworks.com/nat.htm

As a general observation the problem(s) could be due to "double NAT".

https://www.nextiva.com/support/articles/what-is-double-nat.html

Reading back, my thought is that you are now likely have a far better understanding of your network, its's devices, and general configuration.

The two links above may help you understand more about what might be happening and, more importantly, find and fix the problem.

And there are many other similar explanations and tutorials online.

Just do not be tempted into downloading any apps etc. claiming to find and fix the problem.

Likewise, stay out of the registry.

I read through most of it, I didn't understand it entirely, but I did google one thing to do when having a double NAT is that some people like to enable Access Mode on their router (or AP mode in my case) ...That was a huge mistake... I basically got entirely booted offline and had to factory reset everything

I'm back on my wifi now but I guess there's that lesson learned... There's also a bridge mode option, but I am kinda refusing to do anything now in that setting after what just happened

 

[Ralston18]

Unfortunately, such things happen and you and/or your actions are not necessarily to blame.

There is a considerable amount of misinformation on the internet and in some cases is based on the general and not the specific.

Overall, it can still be sorted out To do that you need an accurate and fuller understanding of your network and the all of the network devices - wired and wireless.

The only way that I know to do that is with some sketch or diagram presenting the devices, their respective IP addresses, and to some extent the device macs. (macs may or may not be critical at first).

My suggestion is to to get all devices turned on, wait awhile so all can get connected (if they do) and then capture the Nighthawk settings as you did in your post #110.

Do not delete/redact the device IP addresses. Those IP addresses are all (or should be) in one of the private IP address ranges used by thousands of small network. Your Nighthawk router uses the commonly used default value of 192.168.1.1 as does my Linksys router. All of my devices are between 192.168.1.1 and 192.168.1.254. I use selected IP addresses for static devices and a limited range for DHCP devices. Be any given device wired or wireless.

All connected devices must be using IP addresses between 192.168.1.2 and 192.168.1.255 (subnet 255.255.255.0) 192.168.1.0 and 192.168.1.255 should not be being used (non-routable).

FYI from Lifewire:

https://www.lifewire.com/what-is-a-public-ip-address-2625974

https://www.lifewire.com/what-is-a-private-ip-address-2625970

Both links are excellent explanations and tutorials with respect to private IP addresses.

You can easily find other similar links.

PRIVACY:

What you do not want to reveal is your public IP address. Nor do you want to show the full name of any device on the network if that name could potentially reveal someone's identify., MACs are a concern for some folks but that can be mitigated by redacting the first three hexidecimal pairs of the mac address.

You can use "What is my IP" to learn your Public IP address. Generally stays the same but can change.



More homework:

https://www.howtogeek.com/764868/what-is-a-mac-address-and-how-does-it-work/

You need to ensure that on your network there are no devices using the same IP address. Most devices wanting to join the network will request a DHCP IP address from the router (and there should only be one router) and be provided a DHCP IP address from the DHCP IP address range allowed to the router.

End users can control that range of addresses plus use other IP addresses outside of that range for devices that need or require a static (does not change) IP address. Printers, NAS, scanners, Access Points, etc..

Without explicitly knowing what was done when you attempted to enable Access mode not much can be said about what happened. However it is very likely that you changed, deleted, or duplicated some IP address and the router/network got confused. When you reset everything all went back to factory defaults and there were, for example, no duplicate IP addresses and/or macs.

Factory resets are a ready way to recover a "confused" network. Trade-off being that unless you specifically went back to the router and changed the admin name and password your network may be wide open to others who know those default values and how to use them to gain network access.

Another thing: Change the DNS Server IP addreses to Google 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4. There are other options but Google is commonly used. Sometimes the DNS is the ISP, sometimes the network router. Varies.

I use Google.

What also can prove helpful is to disable IPv6.

Unless there are specific and known reasons for changing MAC's leave them alone. Duplicate macs on a network cause problems.

Take some time to regroup. Read the links and use the Nighthawk's device list or even your own sketch to show your network.

For each device ensure that you know its's IP address be it a static IP address or a DHCP IP address (which can and will change with each time the device joins the network.

 

[StrawberryCookie]

Unfortunately, such things happen and you and/or your actions are not necessarily to blame.

There is a considerable amount of misinformation on the internet and in some cases is based on the general and not the specific.

Overall, it can still be sorted out To do that you need an accurate and fuller understanding of your network and the all of the network devices - wired and wireless.

The only way that I know to do that is with some sketch or diagram presenting the devices, their respective IP addresses, and to some extent the device macs. (macs may or may not be critical at first).

My suggestion is to to get all devices turned on, wait awhile so all can get connected (if they do) and then capture the Nighthawk settings as you did in your post #110.

Do not delete/redact the device IP addresses. Those IP addresses are all (or should be) in one of the private IP address ranges used by thousands of small network. Your Nighthawk router uses the commonly used default value of 192.168.1.1 as does my Linksys router. All of my devices are between 192.168.1.1 and 192.168.1.254. I use selected IP addresses for static devices and a limited range for DHCP devices. Be any given device wired or wireless.

All connected devices must be using IP addresses between 192.168.1.2 and 192.168.1.255 (subnet 255.255.255.0) 192.168.1.0 and 192.168.1.255 should not be being used (non-routable).

FYI from Lifewire:

https://www.lifewire.com/what-is-a-public-ip-address-2625974

https://www.lifewire.com/what-is-a-private-ip-address-2625970

Both links are excellent explanations and tutorials with respect to private IP addresses.

You can easily find other similar links.

PRIVACY:

What you do not want to reveal is your public IP address. Nor do you want to show the full name of any device on the network if that name could potentially reveal someone's identify., MACs are a concern for some folks but that can be mitigated by redacting the first three hexidecimal pairs of the mac address.

You can use "What is my IP" to learn your Public IP address. Generally stays the same but can change.



More homework:

https://www.howtogeek.com/764868/what-is-a-mac-address-and-how-does-it-work/

You need to ensure that on your network there are no devices using the same IP address. Most devices wanting to join the network will request a DHCP IP address from the router (and there should only be one router) and be provided a DHCP IP address from the DHCP IP address range allowed to the router.

End users can control that range of addresses plus use other IP addresses outside of that range for devices that need or require a static (does not change) IP address. Printers, NAS, scanners, Access Points, etc..

Without explicitly knowing what was done when you attempted to enable Access mode not much can be said about what happened. However it is very likely that you changed, deleted, or duplicated some IP address and the router/network got confused. When you reset everything all went back to factory defaults and there were, for example, no duplicate IP addresses and/or macs.

Factory resets are a ready way to recover a "confused" network. Trade-off being that unless you specifically went back to the router and changed the admin name and password your network may be wide open to others who know those default values and how to use them to gain network access.

Another thing: Change the DNS Server IP addreses to Google 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4. There are other options but Google is commonly used. Sometimes the DNS is the ISP, sometimes the network router. Varies.

I use Google.

What also can prove helpful is to disable IPv6.

Unless there are specific and known reasons for changing MAC's leave them alone. Duplicate macs on a network cause problems.

Take some time to regroup. Read the links and use the Nighthawk's device list or even your own sketch to show your network.

For each device ensure that you know its's IP address be it a static IP address or a DHCP IP address (which can and will change with each time the device joins the network.

Ahh, okay... just to make sure, can you tell me which of these to censor exactly on the MAC? I'm more of a visual learner..

https://imgur.com/xSqfciA

(Which of the example 9s would be censored)
View: https://imgur.com/xSqfciA


Despite factory resetting, IPV6 says it's disabled still, which is cool I guess... (But my problem isn't fixed)

I will say... we DO have another router, but it's in the garage, the main one is in the house. The router in the garage is another network and uses a different password but is still on the same ISP obviously. We never had any issues having to do with it when we used Centurylink so I don't know if that would really be the problem, but I guess it's worth noting?

 

[bill001g]

Ahh, okay... just to make sure, can you tell me which of these to censor exactly on the MAC? I'm more of a visual learner..

https://imgur.com/xSqfciA

(Which of the example 9s would be censored)
View: https://imgur.com/xSqfciA

I have stayed out this thread mostly because this is likely something related to the application you are running and not a gernic VoIP issue. Many things that carry voice over IP do not use the standards in VoIP.

Key is no mac address can be accessed from outside your house. In addition they are not actually unique. If you were to every work for a large company that buys thousands of identical laptops you will find duplicates. You most times can change the mac address on any equipment to anything you want. The only one I know you can't change is a cable modem since the ISP uses that to know which device is actually being paid for but this is only visible to the ISP equipment.

Although not a direct hacker threat the mac address on a portable device like a cell phone is the only one of concern. Since you are now outside your house and your phone wifi may attempt to connect to various public wifi. This allows you to be tracked as you move around. Many phones like apple now use a different mac address every time they connect to wifi to prevent this.

For forums like this the only thing that you really need to censor is your public IP. Even this is marginal. All IP are being constantly scanned by hackers. They are not going to search a forum to get one. In addition most hackers are in it for money and it is not worth their time to attack a home users router/pc.

It would be more did you piss someone off enough on this forum that they would target you. This is a more common thing say in first person shooter games where someone get mad because of something done in the game and attempts to take a persons internet connection down. There have been cases where they find out the person actual home address and make false calls to to the police.