The damage pattern seems pretty clear about that: the worst of the damage is practically always on the female connector. The almost paper-thin metal tube the female connectors are made from cannot take much abuse before losing the amount of compliance and shape memory they need to maintain good enough contact across the whole connector. In some of the earlier connector failure analysis, there were some where the female pins broke off from the connector-side bus bar or the bar strip itself broke.I don't think anyone even knows for sure at this point for certain if its the contact, or lack thereof, between the pin and card that's building heat or if it's an internal failure in the cards connector and PCB.
Of course it could be, but then since it need to be tight to ensure contact, it will be very difficult if not impossibile to just pull it out. But then there's the problem, you need to be able to be secure, yet robust enought to let it survive reasonable number of cycles to work flawlessly, and that's partly why the old standard have so much headroom with the spec. And that's why there's a need for the reciever end to detect early signal of a problem and warn you to check/replace the said part, which sadly isn't present in 4000 series and 5000 series.The 150C was at the PSU end indicating that as likely the main problem. Note how Der8auer had to 'forcefully wiggle' the connectors to remove them from the PSU. Given the smaller pins and sockets used on today's modular PSU connections as well as newer GPU's, I have to wonder if some deformity is introduced by 'wiggling' creating higher resistance on some matings or/and poor design.
Pads are less than 1/10th of all of the things that can and likely will go wrong with brakes if you neglect them long enough or drive in conditions that may accelerate degradation. Guide pins can seize. Rust under shims can lock pads in place. Bad brake fluid can cause pistons themselves to seize. Brake lines can burst. Etc. On a car, there are dozens of maintenance items that don't have dedicated reminders.P.S. car brakes have wear indicators to warn you, a small metal is protruding when brake pads still works but is approaching dangerous level needing replacement and it will squeak like hell when you brake.
Temperature is a symptom, not a cause.The 150C was at the PSU end indicating that as likely the main problem.
Yet those maintenance items won't kill you, sized pads only slows you down, not bursting into flames. And cars have specified inspection cycles.Pads are less than 1/10th of all of the things that can and likely will go wrong with brakes if you neglect them long enough or drive in conditions that may accelerate degradation. Guide pins can seize. Rust under shims can lock pads in place. Bad brake fluid can cause pistons themselves to seize. Brake lines can burst. Etc. On a car, there are dozens of maintenance items that don't have dedicated reminders.
Seized pads can cause loss of control. They can also cause the brake calipers to get hot enough to boil brake fluid, cook piston seals and ignite brake fluid/steam that ends up leaking out.Yet those maintenance items won't kill you, sized pads only slows you down, not bursting into flames. And cars have specified inspection cycles.
You have 10 contact heat sensors on your hands. If your HPWR connector is going bad, pretty sure your fingers will detect 150C.Yet these stupid 12vhpwr connectors don't, and by no means you can inspect whether it is working or not until it is burning.
completely seized pads will be immediately noticeable when you drive on the road, and if it seized in a hard braking, you are going to stop and not going on road with on side seizedSeized pads can cause loss of control. They can also cause the brake calipers to get hot enough to boil brake fluid, cook piston seals and ignite brake fluid/steam that ends up leaking out.
You have 10 contact heat sensors on your hands. If your HPWR connector is going bad, pretty sure your fingers will detect 150C.
Getting a pad seized hard enough to lock wheels is unlikely since the rust wedge itself is resisting pads getting squeezed in but they can be seized enough to make traction recovery on snow and ice impossible. That is the kind of seized that doesn't necessarily register as a problem until it is too late.completely seized pads will be immediately noticeable when you drive on the road, and if it seized in a hard braking, you are going to stop and not going on road with on side seized
that is off topic but in a bit I've been owning my car (a mazda) for 16 years and went through 300k km, all these are pretty simple feel and visual drive off able to detect and go for a fix, same as the much larger 8pin connector in the GPU.Getting a pad seized hard enough to lock wheels is unlikely since the rust wedge itself is resisting pads getting squeezed in but they can be seized enough to make traction recovery on snow and ice impossible. That is the kind of seized that doesn't necessarily register as a problem until it is too late.
When my father gave me his previous car and I did a general check-up, I found out he had been driving with seized pads and melted slide pin boots on both sides. I even had to beat the pads out of the caliper brackets with a sledge hammer and a crowbar, completely destroyed them by the time they came off so I could grind all of the rust off. Last year, he had a stuck pad problem on his 12-years-new car that caused a chunk of his front-left rotor to peel off from rust setting in from under the heat-affected layer. That was quite the interesting test-drive. Both of his rear calipers were also seized, probably from wherever he got his scheduled maintenance done not bleeding rear brakes based on how stuck the bleeder valves were.
You are making a false conclusion again. This shows your bias.Temperature is a symptom, not a cause.
He had two wires getting considerably warmer than all of the others, which strongly suggests that his cable was damaged at either or possibly both ends and only had two 12V lines still in usable shape.
And some proclaimed Electrical engineers explaining his view on how it's the connector and Nvidia's fault of all these, not cable or user
The connector itself isn't bad. It is simply rated far too high, leaving little safety factor and thus, little room for error or imperfection. 600W should be treated as the absolute maximum power, with about 375W as a decent rated power limit.
Now we get to the 4090 and 5090 FE boards. Both of them combine all 6 12V pins into a single block, meaning no current balancing can be done between pins or pairs of pins. It is literally impossible for the 4090 and 5090, and I assume lower cards in the lineup using this connector, to balance their load as they lack any means to track beyond full connector current.
I will call you on this when we get first 5070TI meltedIn this sense the cable itself is fine, as long as we keep it to the original 375W spec
I will call you on this when we get first 5070TI meltedand somehow I have a feeling we will see one soon enough.
It could go either way. Most of the sixteen pins on that connector are for signalling between the GPU and PS. Issues with communications can trigger the PS to overdeliver current or for the GPU to pull too much from a single wire.The 150C was at the PSU end indicating that as likely the main problem. Note how Der8auer had to 'forcefully wiggle' the connectors to remove them from the PSU. Given the smaller pins and sockets used on today's modular PSU connections as well as newer GPU's, I have to wonder if some deformity is introduced by 'wiggling' creating higher resistance on some matings or/and poor design.
FWIW for my modular PCIe connectors I find they usually don't come out straight away from the PSU and need a constant pulling force on the connector for about 2 or 3 seconds with the latch open before they magically pop out, no perceivable wiggle. Of course some connections may be stubborn / stuck and need a little wiggle in some situations but personally I try to avoid that.Of course it could be, but then since it need to be tight to ensure contact, it will be very difficult if not impossibile to just pull it out.
It's both. Higher temperature causes higher resistance. However my point was that the PSU connector was substantially hotter than the GPU connector. IOW the GPU connector out performed the PSU connector.Temperature is a symptom, not a cause.
I hear you. Note pin / socket size too.I stand by me statement in the previous thread. The previous 8pinx3 solution provided nine +12V power wires. The 12VHPWR connection pulls the same power through six +12V power wires.
Funny you mentioned XT-60's ... I've used those before in various applications. They are certainly better than current garbage connectors used in PCs, BUT they are solder only (no crimping) ... which is fine, but it does require quality soldering. Mil spec wire (nylon insulation) allows for much higher current and mil spec connectors WILL ensure a positive connection.Staying within the 12V realm, the simplest fix to horrible current balance issues is ditching the multi-pin, multi-wire setup in favor of something like XT-60.
Absolutely. Id love a garden hose sized connector lol.Funny you mentioned XT-60's ... I've used those before in various applications. They are certainly better than current garbage connectors used in PCs, BUT they are solder only (no crimping) ... which is fine, but it does require quality soldering. Mil spec wire (nylon insulation) allows for much higher current and mil spec connectors WILL ensure a positive connection.
A 20X current imbalance between conductors of a cable that is shorted at both ends is impossible unless the low-current pins/wires are heavily damaged, broken or have a major defect that should never have passed QA.You are making a false conclusion again. This shows your bias.
Cable and PSU manufacturers have repeatedly demonstrated that their "perfect" HPWR cables can pass 1000+W fine. 600W isn't supposed to be remotely problematic unless something got damaged or has a manufacturing defect.What is happening is the 5090's (and 4090's before) are pulling so much power they are either right at or well past the 600W maximum and anything other then perfect has a chance of bad things happening.