Seeking header pin-outs and advice for Wade ITX board

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Triophile

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Nov 24, 2012
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Afternoon, everyone.

I'm just wondering if anyone might happen to have the full user manual for a Wade-8321-LU socket 988 ITX motherboard. This, I think, is a board intended mainly for industrial uses, but I managed to get it for a reasonable price off ebay, so I thought I'd have a crack at it. Only problem is, I can't get it to power up.

I've fitted a CPU (i5 second-gen mobile) and 2GB DDR3 RAM, hooked up a USB mouse and keyboard, and added a 20-pin ATX PSU (tested, and known working). When I turn on the mains power, I get a green LED on the mobo, and that's it. I know none of the header pin-outs, and there's nothing that looks like a standard front-panel header on the board.

When I short the Power On pin (on the 20-pin ATX connector) to ground, the fan starts spinning, and I get a couple more green LEDs, but as soon as I remove the short, the board shuts down again. Even if I keep the short in place for 5-10 seconds, nothing shows on the monitor, and I get no beeps from the sounder on the board.

I suspect the mobo may be duff, but it would be great to have the user manual, as there are lots of headers and jumpers on the mobo (for LVDS and power, etc), and none of them are labelled other than as JP1, JP2, etc. I suppose it could also be bad RAM or a bad CPU, but I'm a bit worried by the lack of beeping.

Any help much appreciated.

Cheers, Jon.
 




Cant speak to using a storage controller in the PCI-E slot, but I have on order a Mini PCI-E 2-port sata adapter controller, so i'll update if that works out or not.
 


Dang I don't see a front panel header listed in the page linked above that breaks it all down. However I got curious came across a solution that MIGHT work for you depending on your configuration.

cpx517p2.gif


Basically with this you could route the rear ports to work on through the front ports.
http://www.frontx.com/store/order_ab.html



UPDATE
My mini-PCIe to 2-port sata adapter came in and i already had to send it back. Because of the location of the mini PCIe port on this board, it would not work. The port is on the underside of the board and because of the height of the sata port + a plugged in sata cable, the board would not seat onto the standoffs. So im stuck with 2 ports for now which is fine, i'll upgrade to a bigger hard drive later on.

HOWEVER, this solution could make the above setup work.
kzb22_1.1410855223.jpg

https://techship.se/products/mini-pci-express-extender/?gclid=CK6umOSJlcYCFcOBfgodcakAtQ
A mini PCIe extender! I decided against waiting longer for stuff otherwise i would have tried this, but just let it be known this could solve that little puzzle.
 
I'm waiting for my pcie adapter, however I was planning on cutting a hole for the sata cables in the motherboard tray and running right angled SATA cables, I actually like that for cable management as you wont be able to see them.
 
Hi guys,

I just got my third board and I am really going nuts this time. I did not get one single board to work, and I am not calling myself a newbie in PC hardware. Done quite some stuff now. The problem is: I connect a ram module (different ones actually), a I5 2520M CPU and PSU (also different ones). When I connect the power one LED lights up (I guess its the normal "power connected" LED) When I short PIN 6 and 8 from the Front Panel Connector the CPU Fan starts spinning and two other LEDs light up just to immediately turn off again with the fan spinning down again. I have connected a VGA Monitor. I tried CMOS reset. And also a i5 3210M which works perfectly on a different board. I do not know what I am doing wrong. I noticed in the Jumper Manual the pins 11 to 13 (ground, +5V, ground: maybe they mean something that I don't know). What did you guys do to get to the BIOS screen at least?

I really like this board and the possibilities it offers, hopefully I made beginners mistake and the answer is clear to any of you :)

Cheers, Peter
 
Ill try to snap a picture of how i have my power button jumper connected when i open my case back up to change the CPU fan soon. I didnt short to power it on, though that should be fine. I put the power button connector on the header like you normally would (couldnt get any other connectors on there due to the header pitch difference), pressed power button, turned on, and away it went. Are you sure you are plugging in the additional 4-pin CPU power connector? Are you sure there is nothing grounding out the system? If you attempt to power on but dont have any RAM inserted, do you get a beep code that signals RAM failure? The manual posted above should be enough to get you going though, but im sure you're already looking at it. I contacted Portwell tech support directly and they were a huge help, maybe you can try contacting them as well and see if they can offer you any help as well.
 
Thanks a lot, guys. I gave it a last try and ordered another CPU (i5 2450M). No it finally works. I came to enter the bios pw. I will now try the bios update and see if the other CPU works then, or if its gone. Anyway this is a great thead. thanks a lot a lot for all the comments.
 
Sutek, that is the exact fan i ordered but been too lazy to install. How much quieter is it than the cooljag that came with the board? is it a significant difference?

Also, where did you get your pitch adapters? Thanks.


PeteIceman, how did it all go?



update edit:
I tried installing that Gelid fan but it was too thick (its 15mm vs the stock 10mm). The fan screws for the cooljag fan were not long enough. Anyone know what screws to get or if there is maybe a clip solution that can be used? Thanks
 
Hi guys.

I just picked up one of these off ebay to use with my laptop's i7 2630QM

I had it up and running great earlier though not in a case or anything and only with a 4g stick of HyperX 1866 ram.

Iv'e got an 8 gig stick of Patriot Viper DDR31600, a Silverstone SG05BB-Lite Case, a 500watt PSU and this 2.0mm pitch adapter cable for the front i/o connections. I think it may work.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CKNOVN2

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FGNY82M

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H33SFJU

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DBIHE2A

I went with the Viper ram due to the much lower latency (9 vs 11)

I also emailed Wade customer support to see if they have i/o shields they can sell. If so, I'm going to get one. If not, I may just make my own using cardboard for a template and then get a small sheet of aluminum and cut my own with a dremel and then hotglue it into place.

I've also got a low noise Noctua fan adapter I'm going to put on the CPU cooling fan. It's humming away full speed. That or I may install one of those little adjuster things with the knob that lets you change the speed.

Aside from that, for the time being, I'm going to use my 750GTX and if everything goes well, my brother may use it for a gaming PC.
 


Take the cooljag fan screw to home depot or lowes. They have these little testing panels that you can screw the screw into and it will tell you exactly what type screw you need.
 
All done with my build.

Very pleased with the results but I'd have picked a different case if I had known what a tight fit the Silverstone SFX 450w modular PSU would have been in their SG05BB case.

CPU max temp is around 60*C on intel burn in tests so all good there. I have an Evercool NCA-610EA northbridge cooler on the way but I may not need it (and honestly don't know if there is room for it in terms of height).

Specs

- i7 2630QM
- GTX750 @ 1575mhz
- 8 gigs Patriot Viper DDR3 1600
- 256 gig Corsair P256 SSD
- 1TB WD Black
- Silverstone SG05BB Lite Case
- Silverstone 450w SFX Modular PSU

025lpYi.jpg


CK6kDOH.jpg


m9Ycdvf.jpg
 
Just got my own Wade 8321. Does anyone have any difficulties with the fans running full blast?

I'm looking at the jumpers, but the BIOS control doesn't seem to make a difference.
 



You mean the CPU fan? Yeah its a 3 pin, so it isnt a PWM fan that the mobo can control. Maybe try switching the fan to a quieter one or try out this fan...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261345633623?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Its a 50mm PWM fan that the mobo should be able to control, if you wanted that.
 
Nice build, FastRedPonyCar. I went the same way with a fan-speed controller on the original fan. At the moment, I'm trying to get to grips with Fusion360, so I can 3D-print some parts for a DIY case I'd like to build with the help of a local maker lab. They also have a laser cutter, so I should, hopefully, be able to make an I/O shield, albeit in plastic (the cutter isn't powerful enough to do metals).
 


Thanks, but when the power is turned on, the cooler spinning and stops of 0.1 s =( No sound. Maybe the CPU is not working, Looking for a proven to test. Anyone know which processors are suitable except i7-2710QE/i5-2510E?

 



Could be something else wrong. The first time i booted up my unit, i used a cheap celeron to configure everything. It was a Intel Celeron Mobile 1.5GHz Laptop CPU SR0EW 1.5 Ghz B800 socket G2.

Cost only like $2 on ebay. Maybe you can try that. The board is designed for Sandy Bridge based socket G2 CPUs though, so any of that architecture for the socket should work.

 

I found a 1.5 Ghz B800 socket G2, but it still dont starting =(
Please send your jumper config.
0_101e26_3d3b6ac7_orig.jpg

 



Sorry for the late response. I'll send this over soon.
 

:ange:=)
 
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