[SOLVED] Stripped screws on Dark Base Pro 900

[cdlaman]

Hi, I'm looking for help in removing some screws that are stripped or basically stripped. In order to install the PSU on the Dark Base Pro 900 rev 2 you must either remove the two screws attaching the bracket to the side of the case or by removing two screws holding the back metal mesh screen in place.

I've read numerous things about people having issues with this case for this reason and it seems these screws in particular are way overtightened or have some kind of locktite on them.

The screws on the PSU bracket are pretty much totally stripped and the screws on the mesh back are getting there. I have used precision screwdrivers (the screws are destroying the bits) and attempted to use a manual extractor. I also attempted to use a slotted screwdriver and it snapped the tip of the bit off that as well, and I attempted the rubber band trick.

I believe my next option is to drill the things out. Does anyone have any recommendations for tools for this purpose? I'm finding a lot about stripped screws in general but not specific to screws in a PC case/electronics setting.

Or if you have other ideas or tips I'm open to that as well. Thanks

 

[Eximo]

Do they have hex heads? Usually better for dealing with stubborn screws than philips bits.

Another simple method is to see if you can get a small flat screwdriver under the screw head and lift up while turning. That can get it to engage bad threads.

Nothing special about drilling out screws, you pick a drill bit the size of the shaft of the screw. If you are careful enough you can even only remove the screw head and keep the threads intact. Once the tension is removed you can often spin the screw shaft out, unless you cross threaded it, then it is just jammed in there good and you will need to make a larger hole and use a different screw (or nuts and bolts) after you have drilled it out.

The tools necessary are a power drill and a set of bits. Since these are small drill bits it is easy to snap them with too much force. I would say do it dry if the screw is relatively soft (should be) if not, you may want to use some cutting fluid to keep the bit from overheating (usually only applies to larger jobs or better steel, computer cases aren't usually high quality stuff)

Obviously you would want zero hardware in the system while you do this. Metal shavings are not a good thing to have around electronics. If that isn't an option, you can build dams and barriers with masking tape. Leaving the stick part exposed to hopefully capture as much as possible.

If you do end up drilling a larger hole to get a bad screw out:
Option 1) Use a larger sheet metal screw, these have very inclined threads designed to grip without really having threads in place.
Option 2) Nuts and bolts. If this is just to hold something mechanically and you have access to both sides, you simply use a machine screw and a nut, maybe some washers. This involves a socket and wrench set if finger tight won't suffice.
Option 3) Thread for a larger size screw. In this case you want to consult a thread tapping chart to pick a drill bit that will leave the right amount of metal for tapping. This is a little more fancy and expensive, as you will need a tapping set, and possibly special size drill bits.
Option 4) Make a new hole and thread that in the original size. If there is sufficient space, you can always make a new hole and thread that. Same as above, you would just use a standard M3 or 6-32 machine thread (typical case screw threads)

 

[cdlaman]

I am going to pick up a drill (I need to get one anyway for unrelated activities for the house I'm moving into) so I believe I'm going to go that route.

The screws are as they came from the manufacturer, so they are pretty much completely tightened down flat with no ability to get a flathead under it. They don't look like they are cross threaded so I'm not sure what the issue is other than being low quality screws that were way overtightened.

Thanks for the suggestions

 

[AllanGH]

At this point, it couldn't hurt to try these things before drilling the screws out.

 

[cdlaman]

Nothing special about drilling out screws, you pick a drill bit the size of the shaft of the screw. If you are careful enough you can even only remove the screw head and keep the threads intact. Once the tension is removed you can often spin the screw shaft out, unless you cross threaded it, then it is just jammed in there good and you will need to make a larger hole and use a different screw (or nuts and bolts) after you have drilled it out.

The tools necessary are a power drill and a set of bits. Since these are small drill bits it is easy to snap them with too much force. I would say do it dry if the screw is relatively soft (should be) if not, you may want to use some cutting fluid to keep the bit from overheating (usually only applies to larger jobs or better steel, computer cases aren't usually high quality stuff)

Obviously you would want zero hardware in the system while you do this.

Just to clarify before I do anything I can't undo....

Is the idea to drill ALL the way through the screw? Will it just destroy the screw and allow it to be removed?

I haven't seen an extractor that will fit this size screw, and I understand the idea with that is to drill a small distance and then use the extractor to unscrew.

 

[Karadjgne]

You can pick up a kit that has several different extractor sizes in it in any hardware store, they can be used by hand in tools like a 1/4" socket on a socketed screwdriver or in a drill, depending on the kit. Just be aware that they work in reverse, not the standard forwards like a regular drill bit. 'righty-tighty, lefty-loosy', you'll want lefty which shoves the extractor deeper into the stripped head, grabbing tighter. Push hard and use a controlled spin, harder you push in, better it works.

 

[AllanGH]

Actually, the extractors I linked-to, earlier, incorporate left-handed drill bit type ends, as well as actual extractors. Usually, just reverse drilling with the bit that fits best in a small screw, will eventually "bite" into the screw head, and you'll wind-up unscrewing the screw at fairly high speed.

On the types of screws you're dealing with, I've never had to progress to the "extractor" stage of the game. It seems that the heat from drilling the screw expands the screw enough that it breaks free.

 

[cdlaman]

Updating just because I caved and bought an extractor set, didn't work.

Again, with the extractor not seeming to work do I just drill all the way through? I'm just not seeing how that will work if the screw is stuck, just making a hole through the middle of the screw. The source of the issue is the threads

 

[AllanGH]

Did you use the reverse-twist extractors that essentially drill into the screw (using a drill motor to drive them), or some other type of extractor?

 

[aldan]

its unlikely your going to find an extractor that small.is it the screw head that is stripped or the threads?a pic of the area would really help.

 

[AllanGH]

The issue is likely over for the OP by now, but, for others who run into the same situation...

If you drill with a 1.58mm (1/16") reverse-twist drill bit, it is highly likely that you will never need to use an extractor on the screw. In my experience--particularly with small chassis screws--the drill bit will seize in the screw, at some point, and the screw will be driven out for you.

The rationale used for extracting "right-hand threaded" screws and bolts is simple:
Never use clockwise twist drill bits. Always use counter-clockwise twist drill bits.

Drilling with clockwise twist drill bits will make a hole in the screw, and WILL act to tighten the screw into the threads; making your extraction job more difficult, as well as insure that you will have no choice but to use an extractor on the screw.

That said, in most cases, you can resolve stuck screws without ever getting to the "stripped screw head" stage of the game by:

1.) Using the correctly sized screw driver tip--in good condition
2.) Pressed firmly into the screw head and
3.) Tapping on the screwdriver handle with a hammer,
4.) While applying counter-clockwise torque to the screw driver.
5.) When the screw is finally removed, replace it with a new screw.