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eL3ctro,
I haven't experimented much with waterloops, but I have read write a bit. A good tip is to wrap the hoses around the connections with paper towels, or something capable of keeping your system dry, until your loop has shown it well not leak. There's no excuses for bad QA from manufacturers, but it's best to be safe than sorry until you know your setup is reliable. Glad to hear everything is writing out for you
.
Ryan,
I know what you mean about it being a dinosaur haha! I bought it in December 2012 and read reviews that it was a really effective heatsink. For 45 bucks I figured wth.. I have an extra case fan directly feeding it air so it does a decent job. Just installing it was a pain! It's so tight in between the heatsink and the motherboard. With an allen wrench too!
Im in the same boat as you about upgrading to a new chipset, but I want to see what skylake has to offer. I might just go all in.. sell my setup and dive into the x99.
If I stay with what I have, I will most likely watercool via TEC like yours. I was thinking about having 2 pumps, insulated reservoir similar to yours, and 2 Peltiers.
1. Tap an inlet and an outlet on the side at the bottom. Pump water to a Peltier and directly back into the reservoir. That way it has a continuous flow of cold water that is not affected by heat on the way back to the reservoir.
The second pump and Peltier will be used for cooling the cpu. Tap another inlet and outlet on the opposite side from the initial inlet and outlet. From the reservoir, I was thinking pump first, cpu waterblock, and then the second Peltier. Which , in theory, the Peltier with be absorbing most of the heat before it re-enters the reservoir.
Total cost is roughly $4-500. The Zalman is going! For sure! Haha might just slap a Noctua D15 on it.
Am I rambling?
I haven't experimented much with waterloops, but I have read write a bit. A good tip is to wrap the hoses around the connections with paper towels, or something capable of keeping your system dry, until your loop has shown it well not leak. There's no excuses for bad QA from manufacturers, but it's best to be safe than sorry until you know your setup is reliable. Glad to hear everything is writing out for you
.Ryan,
I know what you mean about it being a dinosaur haha! I bought it in December 2012 and read reviews that it was a really effective heatsink. For 45 bucks I figured wth.. I have an extra case fan directly feeding it air so it does a decent job. Just installing it was a pain! It's so tight in between the heatsink and the motherboard. With an allen wrench too!
Im in the same boat as you about upgrading to a new chipset, but I want to see what skylake has to offer. I might just go all in.. sell my setup and dive into the x99.
If I stay with what I have, I will most likely watercool via TEC like yours. I was thinking about having 2 pumps, insulated reservoir similar to yours, and 2 Peltiers.
1. Tap an inlet and an outlet on the side at the bottom. Pump water to a Peltier and directly back into the reservoir. That way it has a continuous flow of cold water that is not affected by heat on the way back to the reservoir.
The second pump and Peltier will be used for cooling the cpu. Tap another inlet and outlet on the opposite side from the initial inlet and outlet. From the reservoir, I was thinking pump first, cpu waterblock, and then the second Peltier. Which , in theory, the Peltier with be absorbing most of the heat before it re-enters the reservoir.
Total cost is roughly $4-500. The Zalman is going! For sure! Haha might just slap a Noctua D15 on it.
Am I rambling?
- Apr 14, 2002
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That's actually not a bad idea, I must ponder over that one.
It would be better cooling performance, but still air cooling, it would be interesting to see how far you could take your OC stably with a great custom water cooling loop, not below ambient but enough rad field to do the job, but that in itself is not cheap.
I agree. If I were to watercool, I would be committed to it. The cost of the radiator alone could buy 2 Peltiers. My chip is alot more capable than my cooling is currently. 4.7 Ghz is a great overclock on air at just 1.285-9. That's with HT on and temps high 70s. There's one core that has to outperform his co-workers and sit at 82.
Regardless of my future plans.. I am purchasing a titan x soon. Well, 90% sure! The 980ti is impressive and $400 cheaper so that is the other 10%. I don't think the 6GB of vram will be enough even for 1920x1200 res I am currently sitting at. With skyrim I added a couple texture pack mods and an enb. The fps halved and vram bottlenecked. I don't like that feeling :/
I am currently researching dimensions of the nepton 240m. Do you have any notes on your titan
X? I am considering an aio for cooling and wondering how close the dimensions of the bolt holes are on the titans compared to the neptons? Research..
Regardless of my future plans.. I am purchasing a titan x soon. Well, 90% sure! The 980ti is impressive and $400 cheaper so that is the other 10%. I don't think the 6GB of vram will be enough even for 1920x1200 res I am currently sitting at. With skyrim I added a couple texture pack mods and an enb. The fps halved and vram bottlenecked. I don't like that feeling :/
I am currently researching dimensions of the nepton 240m. Do you have any notes on your titan
X? I am considering an aio for cooling and wondering how close the dimensions of the bolt holes are on the titans compared to the neptons? Research..
tech-wreck
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i have decided to isolate the cooling system power from the computer with separate power supplies.
and just now, a thought struck me ... what would happen if i used a boost converter to get 15v to the peltiers?
something like this...
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=171770938303&alt=web
i'm guessing some amps would be sacrificed in the conversion, but the psu i'm looking at has over 100A to play with. hopefully there'll be enough to add more cooling hardware later.
i did manage to blag a free 700w psu, but several caps were dying and it wasn't even putting out 11v... the wiring will come in handy though
and just now, a thought struck me ... what would happen if i used a boost converter to get 15v to the peltiers?
something like this...
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=171770938303&alt=web
i'm guessing some amps would be sacrificed in the conversion, but the psu i'm looking at has over 100A to play with. hopefully there'll be enough to add more cooling hardware later.
i did manage to blag a free 700w psu, but several caps were dying and it wasn't even putting out 11v... the wiring will come in handy though
- Jan 12, 2007
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I am sensing a slight touch of sarcasm.. Kind of hard to tell sometimes online, instead of face to face. I could be wrong though. Wouldn't be the first time!
If you'll just take a second and re-read my initial post, you will find your answer.
Ryan,
Have you decided whether to jump into skylake yet? It seems to be a decent chip. Reviews say that the chip will hit 4.8 and above if you could keep the temps down. Factory vcore is 1.35 if I recall correctly. I don't think you would have any issues keeping it cool
- Apr 14, 2002
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PCNoob27 :
Ryan,
Have you decided whether to jump into skylake yet? It seems to be a decent chip. Reviews say that the chip will hit 4.8 and above if you could keep the temps down. Factory vcore is 1.35 if I recall correctly. I don't think you would have any issues keeping it cool
Have you decided whether to jump into skylake yet? It seems to be a decent chip. Reviews say that the chip will hit 4.8 and above if you could keep the temps down. Factory vcore is 1.35 if I recall correctly. I don't think you would have any issues keeping it cool
I'm not so quick to jump on a new platform that really is costly to upgrade to, requiring a new motherboard, memory, and the CPU as well that's a chunk of change!
Skylake is in it's infancy stage right now and I do remember when Sandy Bridge was in it's infancy stage and all the motherboards had to be replaced at Intel's expense and so far the i7-6700K is no where to be found?
Newegg claims it can only be sold as a combo and is out of stock?
I find it most unusual that the i5 and i7 were not readily E-tailer available at the same time?
Anyhoo, I'll be waiting to see what happens when the i7-6700K actually gets into the hands of overclockers that are not afraid to push the envelope, like the reviewers are with a testing sample.
I'll be waiting for Microsoft to get the bugs out of Windows 10 as well!
Maybe even until they release SP1 for it, we have almost a year anyway.
I already have my Christmas plans in motion to get a Samsung SSD at least 1Tb possibly 2Tb if the prices keep dropping so Skylake will have to wait.
- Apr 14, 2002
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tech-wreck :
i have decided to isolate the cooling system power from the computer with separate power supplies.
and just now, a thought struck me ... what would happen if i used a boost converter to get 15v to the peltiers?
something like this...
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=171770938303&alt=web
i'm guessing some amps would be sacrificed in the conversion, but the psu i'm looking at has over 100A to play with. hopefully there'll be enough to add more cooling hardware later.
i did manage to blag a free 700w psu, but several caps were dying and it wasn't even putting out 11v... the wiring will come in handy though
and just now, a thought struck me ... what would happen if i used a boost converter to get 15v to the peltiers?
something like this...
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=171770938303&alt=web
i'm guessing some amps would be sacrificed in the conversion, but the psu i'm looking at has over 100A to play with. hopefully there'll be enough to add more cooling hardware later.
i did manage to blag a free 700w psu, but several caps were dying and it wasn't even putting out 11v... the wiring will come in handy though
I'm just going to throw this out there as a caution:
Part of the reason the air cooling heat sinks work I am using to cool the hot side of the peltier is because the 15.6v DC peltiers I am running are only receiving 12v DC.
From my own experimentation I am literally approaching the limits of what the Thermalright Heatpipe Air Cooler can handle heat wise from the peltier at 12v running a 110cfm cooling fan.
That does not mean you cannot add higher cfm cooling fans to the Thermalright cooler because they are available, but the noise level may become intolerable, 110cfm is still very tolerable.
What exactly are the specs of the peltiers you will be powering?
I did not know they had to be purchased as a combo.. hmm.
I didn't think about the risk of early chipset releases. That's good thinking. With that in mind, I think I'll wait as well.
As for Windows 10, I have had no issues. Not saying anyone should rush out and upgrade. It is a little different and takes some getting used to. I tested GTA V with my gtx 690 and had no issues. Over 100 fps with max settings, but the 2GB vram limit really showed in some areas.
I just bought a Samsung Pro 512GB! Crazy that you mentioned that, because i'm still excited about it! I did a fresh install of Windows 10 via usb and it literally took 5 minutes to install. I can see why they say the most noticeable difference is upgrading from a hdd to a ssd. I got it for $200 ($190 after 5% quarterly cash back on my CC) from Amazon. I recommend it!
One more thing about the Samsung ssd.. I did move alot of games from my hdd to my ssd, so that I could wipe the hdd, and transfer speeds averaged about 175 MB/s. Don't know if it was limited by the hdd or something else. It did transfer my video folder (about 27GB) back to the hdd in a little over 1 minute!
I didn't think about the risk of early chipset releases. That's good thinking. With that in mind, I think I'll wait as well.
As for Windows 10, I have had no issues. Not saying anyone should rush out and upgrade. It is a little different and takes some getting used to. I tested GTA V with my gtx 690 and had no issues. Over 100 fps with max settings, but the 2GB vram limit really showed in some areas.
I just bought a Samsung Pro 512GB! Crazy that you mentioned that, because i'm still excited about it! I did a fresh install of Windows 10 via usb and it literally took 5 minutes to install. I can see why they say the most noticeable difference is upgrading from a hdd to a ssd. I got it for $200 ($190 after 5% quarterly cash back on my CC) from Amazon. I recommend it!
One more thing about the Samsung ssd.. I did move alot of games from my hdd to my ssd, so that I could wipe the hdd, and transfer speeds averaged about 175 MB/s. Don't know if it was limited by the hdd or something else. It did transfer my video folder (about 27GB) back to the hdd in a little over 1 minute!
tech-wreck
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i'm aiming for maximum cooling performance, if that means increasing airflow, then so be it. but if that is too loud, i have a plan B. and plan C is to turn the stereo up.
i haven't checked the specs of the peltiers yet, i'm still collecting hardware and knowledge, and i also have a list of other things to do around the house that the wife thinks is more important than building computers...
i haven't checked the specs of the peltiers yet, i'm still collecting hardware and knowledge, and i also have a list of other things to do around the house that the wife thinks is more important than building computers...
- Jan 12, 2007
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I have both the Samsung 240 Pro and 250 Evo; the Pro versions feel far more quick than the Evo's but for the price, Evo's are pretty decent. But, given the price points and targeted markets (enthusiast vs. mainstream) this is to be expected.
Funny thing about those to-do lists..
Rubix, I went through that in my head, over and over, for days trying to decide on the Samsung pro, or SanDisk extreme pro. The price difference was $50, but I got a good deal on the Samsung. So I went with the Samsung. I received a coupon from newegg for the 850 evo 500GB, one week after purchasing the pro, for $150. Im kind of regretting not waiting. Then again, I would be wondering how much better the pro is.
Nonetheless, Im very satisfied with my purchase.
Rubix, I went through that in my head, over and over, for days trying to decide on the Samsung pro, or SanDisk extreme pro. The price difference was $50, but I got a good deal on the Samsung. So I went with the Samsung. I received a coupon from newegg for the 850 evo 500GB, one week after purchasing the pro, for $150. Im kind of regretting not waiting. Then again, I would be wondering how much better the pro is.
Nonetheless, Im very satisfied with my purchase.
tech-wreck
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managed to test the equipment today. the pump is dead, or i killed it... four wires to the pump and i tried every combination of + and - on all of them.
the TEC block works, in a few seconds the heatsinks got warm and the waterblock got cold enough for a coat of condensation. and according to the multimeter, 1.7A... although i'm not sure i did it right because the PSU fan cut out as the probes touched, but the current was still there...
the TEC block works, in a few seconds the heatsinks got warm and the waterblock got cold enough for a coat of condensation. and according to the multimeter, 1.7A... although i'm not sure i did it right because the PSU fan cut out as the probes touched, but the current was still there...
toolmaker_03
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a tip for testing the amount of current(Amps) to a device.
the circuit needs to be open on one side, and with the probes of the multi meter complete the circuit, this will allow the current(Amps) to travel through the multi meter, so the device can display a accurate reading.
the circuit needs to be open on one side, and with the probes of the multi meter complete the circuit, this will allow the current(Amps) to travel through the multi meter, so the device can display a accurate reading.
tech-wreck
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"tech-wreck - doing it wrong since 1990®"
cheers for the tip, i'll try that soon, but for now i have decided to dismantle the TEC unit so it can be re-wired with thicker cable from an 8pin PCI-E extension, reusing the plugs.
i managed to half separate the unit, not sure if i can remove the peltiers fully without breaking them, two are well stuck to the waterblock, the other two are very well stuck to a heatsink. there are no markings on them either, so when it's ready i will be able to test them individually.
i'd like to remove the two from the heatsink as i have cleaned the other one up and it needs a good coat of wet and dry to smooth out all the milling marks.
also, the springs do not clamp, they are just to keep the thing together while the screws are tightened up. i might add some washers when i reassemble it so they can be tightened a little more before reaching the end of the threads.
free photo upload
cheers for the tip, i'll try that soon, but for now i have decided to dismantle the TEC unit so it can be re-wired with thicker cable from an 8pin PCI-E extension, reusing the plugs.
i managed to half separate the unit, not sure if i can remove the peltiers fully without breaking them, two are well stuck to the waterblock, the other two are very well stuck to a heatsink. there are no markings on them either, so when it's ready i will be able to test them individually.
i'd like to remove the two from the heatsink as i have cleaned the other one up and it needs a good coat of wet and dry to smooth out all the milling marks.
also, the springs do not clamp, they are just to keep the thing together while the screws are tightened up. i might add some washers when i reassemble it so they can be tightened a little more before reaching the end of the threads.
free photo upload
tech-wreck
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tech-wreck
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i couldn't get in with the soldering iron...
also, there was a copper bar connecting each pair of peltiers which needed cutting with a dremel.
i may yet replace them with 12709s hooked up to 15v via 10amp boost converters. i haven't re-tested them yet, i will when i remember where i put the TIM... or i have a tube of copper grease somewhere...
also, there was a copper bar connecting each pair of peltiers which needed cutting with a dremel.
i may yet replace them with 12709s hooked up to 15v via 10amp boost converters. i haven't re-tested them yet, i will when i remember where i put the TIM... or i have a tube of copper grease somewhere...
- Apr 14, 2002
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The picture shows the peltiers themselves are larger than the water block by almost 1/4" that's questionable as to why they did that?
Even though you can get away with that on the cold side of the peltier, you cannot on the hot side without burning out the peltier, but the hot side shows over coverage with the heat sinks.
I wonder why the water block wasn't manufactured to the exact sizes of the peltiers as the peltiers being larger and hanging over exposed to air would allow ice buildup on the outside of the water block itself where the peltiers overhung?
Plus the cold that was produced that could have been actually used was lost, creating the possibility of moisture from the ice buildup?
That water block looks like it is aluminum?
Aluminum is OK as long as everything else in the loop is also aluminum, but when other metals are used in the loop, the coolant has to be a special multi metal capable or serious corrosion effects occur.
Even though you can get away with that on the cold side of the peltier, you cannot on the hot side without burning out the peltier, but the hot side shows over coverage with the heat sinks.
I wonder why the water block wasn't manufactured to the exact sizes of the peltiers as the peltiers being larger and hanging over exposed to air would allow ice buildup on the outside of the water block itself where the peltiers overhung?
Plus the cold that was produced that could have been actually used was lost, creating the possibility of moisture from the ice buildup?
That water block looks like it is aluminum?
Aluminum is OK as long as everything else in the loop is also aluminum, but when other metals are used in the loop, the coolant has to be a special multi metal capable or serious corrosion effects occur.
tech-wreck
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they are slightly bigger, yes, but only on one side of the peltier where the electrical connections are. i'm not worried.
the waterblock is aluminium (i know, the british version is spelled wrong, but i just can't let go) so that is a concern. do nickel plated blocks react with ally? are copper waterblocks available?
i'm sure there are solutions, i just haven't found them yet...
the waterblock is aluminium (i know, the british version is spelled wrong, but i just can't let go) so that is a concern. do nickel plated blocks react with ally? are copper waterblocks available?
i'm sure there are solutions, i just haven't found them yet...
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