TEC/Peltier CPU Chilled Water Cooling

[06yfz450ridr]

Thank you for going through this 4Ryan6, and for posting all your findings. I wanted to ask your advice on something.

Most sane people would stick with the full or super towers for this kind of thing, and stray away from even mid towers. But I'm not sane, so I've been hypothesizing a build that I might actually attempt: a mini-ITX below-ambient machine.


Okay, before you say I'm absolutely insane, which I am, the case I would use is actually a bit large for mini-ITX. It's the Bitfenix Prodigy. I'd use it mainly because it has space for two 240mm radiators (1 intake, 1 exhuast) and one 140mm exhaust radiator. It also appears you have to rip out most of the drive bays to make room for everything, but there's always the option for a bottom-mounted SSD.

Oh, and I wanted one more thing out of this. I was thinking about using it as a LAN party machine. So it would have to be mobile.

This need for mobility immediately removes the large heatsink, so I was thinking of an alternate way to cool the Peltier.

I was thinking about using a lower-wattage Peltier and water cooling the hot side using the 240mm exhaust. I could put the pump and reservoir on the cooler side of the loop to prevent overheating. Then I was thinking I could have the CPU loop go through a 140mm exhaust before going to the Peltier, so that only a little bit of cooling was required to bring the water below ambient.

However, I wanted to combat one of the big issues with water cooling: low internal case airflow. So, I was thinking of using the cold side of the Peltier for a second purpose. If I had water running across the Peltier and then across an intake 240mm and then back to the Peltier, I could blow below-ambient air into my case, which would help make up for the lack of airflow. The process would also feed on itself, because the below-ambient air would make each exhaust radiator more effective.

I know I'd still need some insulation for this, but I was thinking a lower-power Peltier and below-ambient internal air temperature would remove the need for giant insulation and make a mini-ITX build possible.

I was planning on using one of AMD's APUs for this. They're easily overclocked and would remove the complexities of a video card, at least for a little while.

What do you think? Would this even remotely work?

The biggest problem I see is using a small peltier. A decent apu is about the same wattage as my CPU of about 125w I believe and over clocking both will cause more heat. You really need a 200w peltier to run it nice and cool or even a decent water cooling loop would be nice if you can modify it to fit

 

[jlan86]

Wow. I'm sorry if this is a redundant post and I'm not contributing anything here, but I had to post just to say this is absolutely amazing. I'm familiar with peltier/TEC devices and for years I have dreamed of cooling with one, and the way you implemented TEC here is just stellar. Everything looks incredible, and the way you were able to break 5GHz...I'm speechless. Sure, record holders are able to reach 8 with liquid-helium and liquid-nitrogen and all that stuff, but like you said, since this doesn't require cryogenics, you can run this on a daily basis and it stays colder than underclocked computers. Also, those record holders probably don't run stability tests. Their only goal is to just get there. You actually use 5+ GHz speeds on a daily basis with this incredible piece of equipment you built yourself. It is out of this world.

I'm actually kind of hoping you sell out to some big manufacturer that will take everything you've done and wrap it up into a piece of consumer level equipment that anyone can just strap to their CPU and be done with it. You've clearly already done all the homework.

 

[4Ryan6]

Thank you for going through this 4Ryan6, and for posting all your findings. I wanted to ask your advice on something.

Most sane people would stick with the full or super towers for this kind of thing, and stray away from even mid towers. But I'm not sane, so I've been hypothesizing a build that I might actually attempt: a mini-ITX below-ambient machine.

Okay, before you say I'm absolutely insane, which I am, the case I would use is actually a bit large for mini-ITX. It's the Bitfenix Prodigy. I'd use it mainly because it has space for two 240mm radiators (1 intake, 1 exhuast) and one 140mm exhaust radiator. It also appears you have to rip out most of the drive bays to make room for everything, but there's always the option for a bottom-mounted SSD.

Oh, and I wanted one more thing out of this. I was thinking about using it as a LAN party machine. So it would have to be mobile.

This need for mobility immediately removes the large heatsink, so I was thinking of an alternate way to cool the Peltier.

I was thinking about using a lower-wattage Peltier and water cooling the hot side using the 240mm exhaust. I could put the pump and reservoir on the cooler side of the loop to prevent overheating. Then I was thinking I could have the CPU loop go through a 140mm exhaust before going to the Peltier, so that only a little bit of cooling was required to bring the water below ambient.

However, I wanted to combat one of the big issues with water cooling: low internal case airflow. So, I was thinking of using the cold side of the Peltier for a second purpose. If I had water running across the Peltier and then across an intake 240mm and then back to the Peltier, I could blow below-ambient air into my case, which would help make up for the lack of airflow. The process would also feed on itself, because the below-ambient air would make each exhaust radiator more effective.

I know I'd still need some insulation for this, but I was thinking a lower-power Peltier and below-ambient internal air temperature would remove the need for giant insulation and make a mini-ITX build possible.

I was planning on using one of AMD's APUs for this. They're easily overclocked and would remove the complexities of a video card, at least for a little while.

What do you think? Would this even remotely work?

Hi welcome to the TEC cooling world once the bug bites you and you find a successful solution that actually works you need to use those principals to guide your experiments.

This works for various reasons that all have to work together or it doesn't work at all.

I've already done major testing regarding what works and what doesn't from the first idea of attempting to use this type of cooling, I suggest taking the time to read all the trial and error which starts approximately 2/3rds the way though the Exploring Below Ambient Cooling thread stickied above.

I've to some extent tested using different heat sinks like the copper server style to shrink down the size of it but they did not work to the results I needed to continue down that path, each testing takes money and time to accomplish, and those resources are limited for me.

This is what you need for this cooling to work, you need a heat pipe style of air cooler capable of passive cooling to cool the hot side of the peltier, you need a flow modified water block to pick up the cold from the peltiers cold side, you need an insulated reservoir that will hold enough coolant to use a thermal mass cooling principle to store and build the cold, and a pump to push it all.

Do not tie radiators into a peltier chilling loop, the radiators will work against the cooling you could achieve.

If you have ideas that are within all that's been discovered here that does work then they'll probably work too, so if you undertake attempting them please post your results here successful or not.

 

[4Ryan6]

Wow. I'm sorry if this is a redundant post and I'm not contributing anything here, but I had to post just to say this is absolutely amazing. I'm familiar with peltier/TEC devices and for years I have dreamed of cooling with one, and the way you implemented TEC here is just stellar. Everything looks incredible, and the way you were able to break 5GHz...I'm speechless. Sure, record holders are able to reach 8 with liquid-helium and liquid-nitrogen and all that stuff, but like you said, since this doesn't require cryogenics, you can run this on a daily basis and it stays colder than underclocked computers. Also, those record holders probably don't run stability tests. Their only goal is to just get there. You actually use 5+ GHz speeds on a daily basis with this incredible piece of equipment you built yourself. It is out of this world.

I'm actually kind of hoping you sell out to some big manufacturer that will take everything you've done and wrap it up into a piece of consumer level equipment that anyone can just strap to their CPU and be done with it. You've clearly already done all the homework.

It's nice to run across someone that gets it, and fully sees the potential of this type of cooling, I wish I had a laboratory with unlimited resources, unfortunately I don't.

There's a big difference between running a shoot for the moon overclock that usually ends up sacrificing a CPU to reach it, vs a high useable 24/7 stable overclock running cool enough for the CPU to last a long time.

I do hope this testing will open the eyes of manufacturers to realize what's possible utilizing a simple little invention called a peltier, and milking what can be gleaned from it's use.

I've had so many tell me why this is not possible and go into detail of why they say so, and the one thing they don't seem to understand is, "What about fully operational do you not understand?".

So for me it's a breath of fresh air for someone like you that gets it!

Thank You! Ryan

 

[kauedg]

Ryan I'm getting started on some TEC cooling building configurations. I had an idea while reading your posts and would be nice to know if you think it would work. It consists of two separate circuits: one for the cold-size and other for the hot-side. The main idea is to maintain a constant defined temp on each circuit even if dealing with water temp from 70-90F on the hot circuit.

Lets say the water goes like this on a single loop circuit, based on one of your first replies (illustrative temperatures):
- From the reservoir, cooled by the TEC;
- Through the CPU waterblock, raising water temp;
- Through the TEC hot side's waterblock, raising again the water temp (to 160-180F);
- Through the radiator, lowering it's temp (but raising the radiator temp like hell);
- Back to the reservoir, where it heatens the reserved water reducing the efficiency of the TEC cooling.
- The system reaches a balanced, higher than room, temperature.

The delta temp the water goes through the system is too wide. The proposal of setup is having two shorter delta temp systems, something like this:

* Cold side circuit
- From the cold-reservoir, cooled by the TEC;
- Through the CPU waterblock, raising water temp;
- Through the air cooled radiator, lowering water temp;
- Back to the reservoir at a lower temp than the first setup;

* Hot side circuit
- From the hot-reservoir to the hot-side waterblock, raising water temp;
- Through an air cooling solution or a TEC (with lower power than the CPU cooling one- the goal is to reduce the water temp by a lower delta temp than the first setup);
- Back to the reservoir at a higher temp than the first setup;

This way you have two smaller delta temp systems, with well defined and different temperatures, where you can change even the water flow capacity. The difference between the hot circuit's operating-temp and the cold circuit's operating-temp has no longer to be dealt with.

By the way I'd appreciate if you know where I can get simple and cheap watercooling parts, just for testing.

 

[06yfz450ridr]

Ryan I'm getting started on some TEC cooling building configurations. I had an idea while reading your posts and would be nice to know if you think it would work. It consists of two separate circuits: one for the cold-size and other for the hot-side. The main idea is to maintain a constant defined temp on each circuit even if dealing with water temp from 70-90F on the hot circuit.

Lets say the water goes like this on a single loop circuit, based on one of your first replies (illustrative temperatures):
- From the reservoir, cooled by the TEC;
- Through the CPU waterblock, raising water temp;
- Through the TEC hot side's waterblock, raising again the water temp (to 160-180F);
- Through the radiator, lowering it's temp (but raising the radiator temp like hell);
- Back to the reservoir, where it heatens the reserved water reducing the efficiency of the TEC cooling.
- The system reaches a balanced, higher than room, temperature.

The delta temp the water goes through the system is too wide. The proposal of setup is having two shorter delta temp systems, something like this:

* Cold side circuit
- From the cold-reservoir, cooled by the TEC;
- Through the CPU waterblock, raising water temp;
- Through the air cooled radiator, lowering water temp;
- Back to the reservoir at a lower temp than the first setup;

* Hot side circuit
- From the hot-reservoir to the hot-side waterblock, raising water temp;
- Through an air cooling solution or a TEC (with lower power than the CPU cooling one- the goal is to reduce the water temp by a lower delta temp than the first setup);
- Back to the reservoir at a higher temp than the first setup;

This way you have two smaller delta temp systems, with well defined and different temperatures, where you can change even the water flow capacity. The difference between the hot circuit's operating-temp and the cold circuit's operating-temp has no longer to be dealt with.

By the way I'd appreciate if you know where I can get simple and cheap watercooling parts, just for testing.

like he explained to me using a tec with the radiator is pointless since all the cold is going to escape there since its colder then the surrounding air just essentially being re heated again by the air going through the rad.

im rather confused on why on the cold side your using the hot sides waterblock? you should be using the cold side with no rad and then the hot side with use the hot side waterblock with radiator to cool it. i think the way you described it will actually cause your system to over heat fairly quickly.

 

[kauedg]

Ryan I'm getting started on some TEC cooling building configurations. I had an idea while reading your posts and would be nice to know if you think it would work. It consists of two separate circuits: one for the cold-size and other for the hot-side. The main idea is to maintain a constant defined temp on each circuit even if dealing with water temp from 70-90F on the hot circuit.

Lets say the water goes like this on a single loop circuit, based on one of your first replies (illustrative temperatures):
- From the reservoir, cooled by the TEC;
- Through the CPU waterblock, raising water temp;
- Through the TEC hot side's waterblock, raising again the water temp (to 160-180F);
- Through the radiator, lowering it's temp (but raising the radiator temp like hell);
- Back to the reservoir, where it heatens the reserved water reducing the efficiency of the TEC cooling.
- The system reaches a balanced, higher than room, temperature.

The delta temp the water goes through the system is too wide. The proposal of setup is having two shorter delta temp systems, something like this:

* Cold side circuit
- From the cold-reservoir, cooled by the TEC;
- Through the CPU waterblock, raising water temp;
- Through the air cooled radiator, lowering water temp;
- Back to the reservoir at a lower temp than the first setup;

* Hot side circuit
- From the hot-reservoir to the hot-side waterblock, raising water temp;
- Through an air cooling solution or a TEC (with lower power than the CPU cooling one- the goal is to reduce the water temp by a lower delta temp than the first setup);
- Back to the reservoir at a higher temp than the first setup;

This way you have two smaller delta temp systems, with well defined and different temperatures, where you can change even the water flow capacity. The difference between the hot circuit's operating-temp and the cold circuit's operating-temp has no longer to be dealt with.

By the way I'd appreciate if you know where I can get simple and cheap watercooling parts, just for testing.

like he explained to me using a tec with the radiator is pointless since all the cold is going to escape there since its colder then the surrounding air just essentially being re heated again by the air going through the rad.

im rather confused on why on the cold side your using the hot sides waterblock? you should be using the cold side with no rad and then the hot side with use the hot side waterblock with radiator to cool it. i think the way you described it will actually cause your system to over heat fairly quickly.

I think I was not clear... Water comes from the cold-reservoir (does not mean the water is cold, just means it belongs to the cold circuit), gets chilled by the TEC, goes to cold side waterblock. The CPU die exchanges heat with the cold size waterblock, wich is cooled by the cooled water. This raises the water's temperature (above ambient temp) and then it goes to the radiator to cool a little before going to the cold reservoir again. Maybe the rad is useless in this setup, I still don't have material to make tests.

As the TEC's cold side raises it's temperature (due to the heat exchange with the waterblock), the hot side gets hotter. The goal here is that the hot-circuit maintains the TEC's hot-side at a regular temperature (going through rad, reservoir and so on).

I will give some (very) made up temperatures here, to explain:

- Single circuit setup water flow and water temperatures:
Water reservoir --- 86f ---> TEC's cold side --- 41f ---> Waterblock on CPU --- 100f ---> Waterblock on TEC's hot side --- 160f ---> rad --- 86f ---> water reservoir

- On a double circuit setup water flow and water temperatures:
*Cold side
Water reservoir --- 86f ---> TEC's cold side --- 41f ---> Waterblock on CPU --- 100f ---> rad --- 86f ---> water reservoir

*Hot side
Water reservoir --- 95f ---> Waterblock on TEC's hot side --- 120+f ---> rad --- 95f ---> water reservoir

So, despite working on higher water temperature, it's not needed to cool it to the cold side's desired operating temperature... you don't have to get rid of this temperature difference between the two systems.

 

[4Ryan6]

Ryan I'm getting started on some TEC cooling building configurations. I had an idea while reading your posts and would be nice to know if you think it would work. It consists of two separate circuits: one for the cold-size and other for the hot-side. The main idea is to maintain a constant defined temp on each circuit even if dealing with water temp from 70-90F on the hot circuit.

Lets say the water goes like this on a single loop circuit, based on one of your first replies (illustrative temperatures):
- From the reservoir, cooled by the TEC;
- Through the CPU waterblock, raising water temp;
- Through the TEC hot side's waterblock, raising again the water temp (to 160-180F);
- Through the radiator, lowering it's temp (but raising the radiator temp like hell);
- Back to the reservoir, where it heatens the reserved water reducing the efficiency of the TEC cooling.
- The system reaches a balanced, higher than room, temperature.

The delta temp the water goes through the system is too wide. The proposal of setup is having two shorter delta temp systems, something like this:

* Cold side circuit
- From the cold-reservoir, cooled by the TEC;
- Through the CPU waterblock, raising water temp;
- Through the air cooled radiator, lowering water temp;
- Back to the reservoir at a lower temp than the first setup;

* Hot side circuit
- From the hot-reservoir to the hot-side waterblock, raising water temp;
- Through an air cooling solution or a TEC (with lower power than the CPU cooling one- the goal is to reduce the water temp by a lower delta temp than the first setup);
- Back to the reservoir at a higher temp than the first setup;

This way you have two smaller delta temp systems, with well defined and different temperatures, where you can change even the water flow capacity. The difference between the hot circuit's operating-temp and the cold circuit's operating-temp has no longer to be dealt with.

By the way I'd appreciate if you know where I can get simple and cheap watercooling parts, just for testing.

like he explained to me using a tec with the radiator is pointless since all the cold is going to escape there since its colder then the surrounding air just essentially being re heated again by the air going through the rad.

im rather confused on why on the cold side your using the hot sides waterblock? you should be using the cold side with no rad and then the hot side with use the hot side waterblock with radiator to cool it. i think the way you described it will actually cause your system to over heat fairly quickly.

I think I was not clear... Water comes from the cold-reservoir (does not mean the water is cold, just means it belongs to the cold circuit), gets chilled by the TEC, goes to cold side waterblock. The CPU die exchanges heat with the cold size waterblock, wich is cooled by the cooled water. This raises the water's temperature (above ambient temp) and then it goes to the radiator to cool a little before going to the cold reservoir again. Maybe the rad is useless in this setup, I still don't have material to make tests.

As the TEC's cold side raises it's temperature (due to the heat exchange with the waterblock), the hot side gets hotter. The goal here is that the hot-circuit maintains the TEC's hot-side at a regular temperature (going through rad, reservoir and so on).

I will give some (very) made up temperatures here, to explain:

- Single circuit setup water flow and water temperatures:
Water reservoir --- 86f ---> TEC's cold side --- 41f ---> Waterblock on CPU --- 100f ---> Waterblock on TEC's hot side --- 160f ---> rad --- 86f ---> water reservoir

- On a double circuit setup water flow and water temperatures:
*Cold side
Water reservoir --- 86f ---> TEC's cold side --- 41f ---> Waterblock on CPU --- 100f ---> rad --- 86f ---> water reservoir

*Hot side
Water reservoir --- 95f ---> Waterblock on TEC's hot side --- 120+f ---> rad --- 95f ---> water reservoir

So, despite working on higher water temperature, it's not needed to cool it to the cold side's desired operating temperature... you don't have to get rid of this temperature difference between the two systems.

What works is covered in this thread, what it took to get to this point is covered in the Exploring Below Ambient Water Cooling Thread linked on the first page of this thread. You can save yourself some time and money and go straight to what I've proven that works in this thread and has been in operation now over 8 months, or do your own experimentation. In most all cases what seems mentally logical regarding peltier cooling may not work at all, so good luck to your endeavors.

 

[kauedg]

What works is covered in this thread, what it took to get to this point is covered in the Exploring Below Ambient Water Cooling Thread linked on the first page of this thread. You can save yourself some time and money and go straight to what I've proven that works in this thread and has been in operation now over 8 months, or do your own experimentation. In most all cases what seems mentally logical regarding peltier cooling may not work at all, so good luck to your endeavors.

Thank you, I'll go through the mentioned thread again. Do you know any online store wich sells simple waterblocks (not CPU specific)?

 

[4Ryan6]

http://www.shop.customthermoelectri...EE3E06E6D36339D61FFA985080C809.m1plqscsfapp04

 

[kauedg]

http://www.shop.customthermoelectri...EE3E06E6D36339D61FFA985080C809.m1plqscsfapp04

Thanks. I live in Brazil, the shipment prices are high wherever I buy... Do you think these EK kits are reliable and could be used in some TEC cooling experiments?

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g57/c607/list/p1/EK_Products-EK_Water_Cooling_Kits.html

 

[4Ryan6]

http://www.shop.customthermoelectri...EE3E06E6D36339D61FFA985080C809.m1plqscsfapp04

Thanks. I live in Brazil, the shipment prices are high wherever I buy... Do you think these EK kits are reliable and could be used in some TEC cooling experiments?

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g57/c607/list/p1/EK_Products-EK_Water_Cooling_Kits.html

You don't need a radiator for the type TEC cooling I'm running, I suggest reading the thread to see what all is involved.

A kit will be giving you stuff you don't need and short you on what you do need.

 

[thequn]

Also ill point out that in your idea kauedg you assume that the water temp will rise that fast in reality at most its maybe one degree change if at all from the cpu die to the next component. that water is flowing way to fast even on low settings it takes my system at least 6-8 hours to raze water to room temp. depending on the start temps. (using ice) --- errm thats low usage ,netflix,wordexel-youknow work.

 

[4Ryan6]

Also ill point out that in your idea kauedg you assume that the water temp will rise that fast in reality at most its maybe one degree change if at all from the cpu die to the next component. that water is flowing way to fast even on low settings it takes my system at least 6-8 hours to raze water to room temp. depending on the start temps. (using ice)

So what is your daily ice routine?

Are you freezing blocks?

How many, how long it lasts, etc.?

 

[thequn]

um if just normal everyday computer work no gameing just one load of two two litter bottles of ice.

If i am gaming all day ill add in two in the morning then let the watter chill up then replace them with two more, after about 30 min then replace them half way though the day, so it depends.

Even if I forget to replace them all day this system is still better then my noctua nh-d14 in performance. -lazy days.

I have not played a game for more then 4 hours at one time yet. since doing this. i been playing Uncharted 2,3 on my ps3 over the last few weeks in my free time. because i never got around to it.

 

[thequn]

i have the advantage of having an ivy bridge cpu its not pulling more then 10-20 watts on average in games maybe 45-50, i think the pump puts out more heat on average. LOLOLOLOLOL

 

[4Ryan6]

So how much water volume are you running?

 

[thequn]

total water 3.8 to 4.1 ? once it gets low I add in once extra bottle per run, so 3 two liter bottles until I get more distilled water. I stopped using the default 1 gallon distilled water containers because they would rupture after a week or so where the Pepsi bottled only rupture while in the freezer after a month ish.

I not planning on starting a TEC system until after the winter holiday,

i wonder how effective it would be with a 5 gallon res and maybe a bottle in the morning to get the water cold faster.

Ryan do you happen to have any photos of your modified TEC Rasa block?

 

[4Ryan6]

Ryan do you happen to have any photos of your modified TEC Rasa block?

No I do not, and you are not the first that has asked me the exact same question.

You have no idea how many times I have kicked myself for not taking before and after modification pictures!

At the time I was modifying it, I was pretty much at a point of desperation, I did not actually know for sure it would work, it was a test that turned out to be 100% successful.

Sometimes pictures are worth a 1,000 words, because I also modified the Swiftech Apogee XT which having the solid brass top was much more difficult to do vs the Rasa acetal top.

In words, once taken apart the acetal top has a center injection stem, that protrudes inside to about a 64th of an inch from actually touching the pin grid on the upper side of the copper base plate.

Note: Some of the Rasa blocks are different there's been pictures posted here somewhere on their differences but mine had a fine rubber O-ring seated in a grove (shaped like <>), exactly as pictured above, cut into the acetal and that rubber O-ring actually touches the copper base pin grid.

Toss the fine O-ring, and cut (using a dremel tool or similar) approximately 3/32nds off the protrusion, you will be going a minimum of at least twice the depth the of the fine O-ring seat.

Take your time and work on it until it is as returned to flat as much as possible, when that step is completed, the groove <> that was for seating the fine O-ring will be completely gone.

Then cut small grooved channels on the new face you've created, twice the width of the fine groove O-ring seating you completely removed.

Cut the grooved channels oriented as a wagon wheel spoke design at 12 - 3 - 6 - and 9 oclock as points on a clock, then an additional set of grooves at 1:30 - 4:30 - 7:30 and 10:30, these channels help direct the water to the corners of the copper baseplate.

Smooth all the edges of your work, clean it up real good of all loose particles, and reassemble the water block.

Wallah! One modified flow Rasa Water Block!

As long as you have a Dremel to do it with, it is actually a very simple process, the acetal is very easy to cut, just take your time and don't rush it.

Snagged these Rasa pictures off the net and did a quick paint referencing of the cutting details, I hope it helps in your understanding of what to do.

 

[thequn]

Thanks Ryan looks good, thanks for that information. What Dremel tool insert did you use ?

 

[4Ryan6]

Thanks Ryan looks good, thanks for that information. What Dremel tool insert did you use ?

I used the largest ball tip cutter head to slowly whittle away the face, then switched to the drum sander attachment to smooth it back out flat, then went to the proper sized ball cutter to cut the channeling grooves into the new face.

A very small desktop vise would help tremendously in holding it steady for you but it can be done without one.

Once you make the first cut you're pretty much committed so the end results are totally up to you, you may feel more confident using other cutter heads as the Dremel kits have many cutter options to take advantage of.

Edit: I reworked the pictures above.

 

[kauedg]

You can't (or don't need to) use a radiator in this loop, because it only makes the water get to ambient temperature. What if you insulate the radiator, cooled by a peltier?

 

[06yfz450ridr]

You can't (or don't need to) use a radiator in this loop, because it only makes the water get to ambient temperature. What if you insulate the radiator, cooled by a peltier?

that really defeats the purpose of the radiator since you would have to cover the entire radiator.

so your better off not using one at all.

 

[manofchalk]

Using a peltier to cool the water a radiator is submerged in I suspect is just a very roundabout way of achieving what Ryan already has, peltier cooled water.
Plus, you would need to buy a pump to move water past the fins of the rad.

 

[kauedg]

You can't (or don't need to) use a radiator in this loop, because it only makes the water get to ambient temperature. What if you insulate the radiator, cooled by a peltier?

that really defeats the purpose of the radiator since you would have to cover the entire radiator.

so your better off not using one at all.

Ok, I don't have much experience with watercooling but that does not defeat it's purpose. The main concept of a radiator is to make a hot liquid cool to about room temp, right? Basic thermodynamics: two or more bodies with different and constant temperatures tend to reach a balancing temperature. In the most common case a radiator exchanges heat with the liquid. At the same time it exchanges heat with the ambient.

It's pointless to add a peltier (cold side) to a radiator because the rad will cool BUT also will exchange heat with the ambient and the water at the same time, balancing the system's temperature.

But, if we take the ambient heat exchange from the system (or at least reduce it a lot), by insulating the rad, the balance will happen between the isolating material, the water and the rad itself. If you attach a peltier to a totally insulated rad (no water flowing), you agree with me that the rad will remain cold, right?

I don't mean to be hard headed at all, my intention is to learn. I'm still waiting for my WC parts to arrive and begin testing.


(manofchalk I didn't mean to submerge the radiator in water)