TEC/Peltier CPU Chilled Water Cooling

[manofchalk]

So no heat exchange is happening between the radiator and the air since its all insulated. The rad has the cold side of a peltier stuck to it (and the heat output of the peltier is a non-issue).
So you get a cold radiator that cools the water that flows through it. Why do that over just having a water-block stuck to the cold side?

 

[kauedg]

So no heat exchange is happening between the radiator and the air since its all insulated. The rad has the cold side of a peltier stuck to it (and the heat output of the peltier is a non-issue).
So you get a cold radiator that cools the water that flows through it. Why do that over just having a water-block stuck to the cold side?

The circuit in a waterblock is much smaller than the rad's circuit. Assuming they are in the same system, hence same waterflow, the water stays much longer exchanging heat with the rad's fins than exchanging heat with the waterblock. It's very hard to explain the overall idea because english is not my native language.

I think that there are two goals when setting up a system like this: chilling the die as much as possible or chilling it to a constant temperature.

As soon as I receive all my orders I will run extensive tests using an IR thermometer and lots of different setups. I will post the results here, then.

 

[4Ryan6]

You can't (or don't need to) use a radiator in this loop, because it only makes the water get to ambient temperature. What if you insulate the radiator, cooled by a peltier?

Ok, I don't have much experience with watercooling but that does not defeat it's purpose. The main concept of a radiator is to make a hot liquid cool to about room temp, right? Basic thermodynamics: two or more bodies with different and constant temperatures tend to reach a balancing temperature. In the most common case a radiator exchanges heat with the liquid. At the same time it exchanges heat with the ambient.

It's pointless to add a peltier (cold side) to a radiator because the rad will cool BUT also will exchange heat with the ambient and the water at the same time, balancing the system's temperature.

But, if we take the ambient heat exchange from the system (or at least reduce it a lot), by insulating the rad, the balance will happen between the isolating material, the water and the rad itself. If you attach a peltier to a totally insulated rad (no water flowing), you agree with me that the rad will remain cold, right?

I don't mean to be hard headed at all, my intention is to learn. I'm still waiting for my WC parts to arrive and begin testing.


(manofchalk I didn't mean to submerge the radiator in water)

The circuit in a waterblock is much smaller than the rad's circuit. Assuming they are in the same system, hence same waterflow, the water stays much longer exchanging heat with the rad's fins than exchanging heat with the waterblock. It's very hard to explain the overall idea because english is not my native language.

I think that there are two goals when setting up a system like this: chilling the die as much as possible or chilling it to a constant temperature.

As soon as I receive all my orders I will run extensive tests using an IR thermometer and lots of different setups. I will post the results here, then.

So your idea is to use an insulated radiator as the cold exchanger instead of a water block?

So you won't be pulling any ambient air through the radiator fins to neutralize the cold, just using the radiator with the fins insulated to capture the cold from the peltier.

Interesting Idea!

I do suggest you go take a look at overclock.net and see if anyone else has attempted that, if anyone has, you can expect the same results.

Most of their peltier/radiator attempts have failed miserably, but they were still running fans on the radiator, neutralizing the cold from the peltier, your idea may actually work, IDK?

But if it does you may be stumbling onto another peltier cooling solution?

The cooling solution using modified flow water blocks as cold exchangers that is covered in this thread works, 100% guaranteed, and has been in operation for over 8 months.

If you decide to proceed please keep us informed with your progress.

I hope it works for you!

This cooling that this thread covers started from an idea.

 

[thequn]

I would imagine it would have the same effect as a slush box. another thing is how much would it take to freeze the lines in side a rad? sounds a bit easier to freeze it i would think? and then what size to use anything larger then 120mm rad would be pointless right? because the size of the pelter? or would the extra cold leakage help on larger ones.

 

[kauedg]

You can't (or don't need to) use a radiator in this loop, because it only makes the water get to ambient temperature. What if you insulate the radiator, cooled by a peltier?

Ok, I don't have much experience with watercooling but that does not defeat it's purpose. The main concept of a radiator is to make a hot liquid cool to about room temp, right? Basic thermodynamics: two or more bodies with different and constant temperatures tend to reach a balancing temperature. In the most common case a radiator exchanges heat with the liquid. At the same time it exchanges heat with the ambient.

It's pointless to add a peltier (cold side) to a radiator because the rad will cool BUT also will exchange heat with the ambient and the water at the same time, balancing the system's temperature.

But, if we take the ambient heat exchange from the system (or at least reduce it a lot), by insulating the rad, the balance will happen between the isolating material, the water and the rad itself. If you attach a peltier to a totally insulated rad (no water flowing), you agree with me that the rad will remain cold, right?

I don't mean to be hard headed at all, my intention is to learn. I'm still waiting for my WC parts to arrive and begin testing.


(manofchalk I didn't mean to submerge the radiator in water)

The circuit in a waterblock is much smaller than the rad's circuit. Assuming they are in the same system, hence same waterflow, the water stays much longer exchanging heat with the rad's fins than exchanging heat with the waterblock. It's very hard to explain the overall idea because english is not my native language.

I think that there are two goals when setting up a system like this: chilling the die as much as possible or chilling it to a constant temperature.

As soon as I receive all my orders I will run extensive tests using an IR thermometer and lots of different setups. I will post the results here, then.

So your idea is to use an insulated radiator as the cold exchanger instead of a water block?

So you won't be pulling any ambient air through the radiator fins to neutralize the cold, just using the radiator with the fins insulated to capture the cold from the peltier.

Interesting Idea!

I do suggest you go take a look at overclock.net and see if anyone else has attempted that, if anyone has, you can expect the same results.

Most of their peltier/radiator attempts have failed miserably, but they were still running fans on the radiator, neutralizing the cold from the peltier, your idea may actually work, IDK?

But if it does you may be stumbling onto another peltier cooling solution?

The cooling solution using modified flow water blocks as cold exchangers that is covered in this thread works, 100% guaranteed, and has been in operation for over 8 months.

If you decide to proceed please keep us informed with your progress.

I hope it works for you!

This cooling that this thread covers started from an idea.

Thanks for the forum link Ryan. At first I thought you were being sarcastic on the first lines ("So, you think you're that good?" haha). Even if I end up "reinventing the wheel" I will begin my project from scratch, taking notes on the separate part's performance and then putting the best ones together.

I will have in hand:
1 reservoir (0.8L with temp meter)
1 water pump 480lph/12v/950ma
2 120mm copper radiator
2 120mm Cooler Master Fan1
1 stock amd air cooler
3 simple copper waterblocks
IR thermomether
Diverse electronic parts

1 12V/6A TEC
2 12V/6.4A TEC
1 PSU 240v with 3x 12v/20A outs

 

[thequn]

Thanks for the forum link Ryan. At first I thought you were being sarcastic on the first lines ("So, you think you're that good?" haha). Even if I end up "reinventing the wheel" I will begin my project from scratch, taking notes on the separate part's performance and then putting the best ones together.

I will have in hand:
1 reservoir (0.8L with temp meter)
1 water pump 480lph/12v/950ma
2 120mm copper radiator
2 120mm Cooler Master Fan1
1 stock amd air cooler
3 simple copper waterblocks
IR thermomether
Diverse electronic parts

1 12V/6A TEC
2 12V/6.4A TEC
1 PSU 240v with 3x 12v/20A outs

Good luck man please take photos and post them here so we can obverse and comment on how awesome it is.

@ 4ryan
wow I just read Your TEC post there on OCN and they kinda just took a big steaming pile on your topic. there loss
one more question you point out that your second tec block is runing a brass top? What effect dose it add to the line because brass often impure and nickle is often used to plate brass for less corrosive at room temp.

 

[4Ryan6]

Thanks for the forum link Ryan. At first I thought you were being sarcastic on the first lines ("So, you think you're that good?" haha). Even if I end up "reinventing the wheel" I will begin my project from scratch, taking notes on the separate part's performance and then putting the best ones together.

I will have in hand:
1 reservoir (0.8L with temp meter)
1 water pump 480lph/12v/950ma
2 120mm copper radiator
2 120mm Cooler Master Fan1
1 stock amd air cooler
3 simple copper waterblocks
IR thermomether
Diverse electronic parts

1 12V/6A TEC
2 12V/6.4A TEC
1 PSU 240v with 3x 12v/20A outs

I went through similar testing when I first entertained the idea of using a peltier to cool with, sometimes the only way to find out what works is to try it, if it works you've got something, if not, back to the drawing board and start over.

 

[4Ryan6]

@ 4ryan
wow I just read Your TEC post there on OCN and they kinda just took a big steaming pile on your topic. there loss
one more question you point out that your second tec block is runing a brass top? What effect dose it add to the line because brass often impure and nickle is often used to plate brass for less corrosive at room temp.

The OCN guys are stuck on direct peltier mounting and to them anything less is irrelevant, they were always trying to explain to me why what I was doing wouldn't work.

I guess they missed the part that I was sharing a fully operational cooling system not an idea or concept.

The brass top water block has produced zero problems and it is not plated inside.

 

[kauedg]

The OCN guys are stuck on direct peltier mounting and to them anything less is irrelevant, they were always trying to explain to me why what I was doing wouldn't work.

I guess they missed the part that I was sharing a fully operational cooling system not an idea or concept.

The brass top water block has produced zero problems and it is not plated inside.

What's the difference between running an OC'ed CPU at -5C or 10C, at the same CPU freq? It seems to me that there's a point where it gets useless to go below 0C if you are not going to raise the freq.

TEC systems are by itself almost not worth setting up, as far as I've read. You can't expect it to work like a chiller, phase-change system, but it has to be somewhat better than water cooling. This is the goal I'll be persuing in my project: keeping cooler than WC, without going below 0C, but making the exceeding power and heating worth. Maybe then, later, try to go to lower temperatures giving room to more overclocking. This is how technology/science advance.

 

[4Ryan6]

The OCN guys are stuck on direct peltier mounting and to them anything less is irrelevant, they were always trying to explain to me why what I was doing wouldn't work.

I guess they missed the part that I was sharing a fully operational cooling system not an idea or concept.

The brass top water block has produced zero problems and it is not plated inside.

What's the difference between running an OC'ed CPU at -5C or 10C, at the same CPU freq? It seems to me that there's a point where it gets useless to go below 0C if you are not going to raise the freq.

TEC systems are by itself almost not worth setting up, as far as I've read. You can't expect it to work like a chiller, phase-change system, but it has to be somewhat better than water cooling. This is the goal I'll be persuing in my project: keeping cooler than WC, without going below 0C, but making the exceeding power and heating worth. Maybe then, later, try to go to lower temperatures giving room to more overclocking. This is how technology/science advance.

Your goal is exactly the same as mine!

I was simply after a cooling solution that was independent of ambient room temperature cooling, as is Air cooling, and Water cooling using the traditional radiator loop, (which is still at ambient mercy), and I was not after going down to condensation, or ice producing levels of cooling.

That's what I presently have, even though it is capable of going down further than I actually run it, as I choose to stay above the condensation point, which still allows me to run water temperatures at 13c below ambient without condensation.

 

[kauedg]

Your goal is exactly the same as mine!

I was simply after a cooling solution that was independent of ambient room temperature cooling, as is Air cooling, and Water cooling using the traditional radiator loop, (which is still at ambient mercy), and I was not after going down to condensation, or ice producing levels of cooling.

That's what I presently have, even though it is capable of going down further than I actually run it, as I choose to stay above the condensation point, which still allows me to run water temperatures at 13c below ambient without condensation.

Good to know I'm on the same path. I'm also focusing on building a peltier module that work as an "add-on" to a watercooler loop. Then it can be automatically turned on/off when a certain temperature is reached, to save electricity. But that comes after finding the optimal setup.

 

[kauedg]

The more I read, the more question pop in my head... How do I control a TEC's temperature, by voltage or current? How can I set a pot to control this?

 

[4Ryan6]

This is only relating to my cooling setup!

Temperature is controlled by fan speed on the heat sink cooling the hot side of the peltier.

Voltage is constant feed on the primary TEC assembly, and the secondary TEC assembly is toggle switch controlled when needed.

 

[thequn]

TEC systems are by itself almost not worth setting up, as far as I've read. You can't expect it to work like a chiller, phase-change system, but it has to be somewhat better than water cooling. This is the goal I'll be persuing in my project: keeping cooler than WC, without going below 0C, but making the exceeding power and heating worth. Maybe then, later, try to go to lower temperatures giving room to more overclocking. This is how technology/science advance.

This is a good attitude for the project. sadly not more people think like this, always better to start small then work your way up. then again most people consider custom water-cooling a large endeavor, LOL good luck man, ill be a few months behind you with a TEC, Currently i am loving my ice system, and i am not ready to destroy it just yet.

 

[kauedg]

TEC systems are by itself almost not worth setting up, as far as I've read. You can't expect it to work like a chiller, phase-change system, but it has to be somewhat better than water cooling. This is the goal I'll be persuing in my project: keeping cooler than WC, without going below 0C, but making the exceeding power and heating worth. Maybe then, later, try to go to lower temperatures giving room to more overclocking. This is how technology/science advance.

This is a good attitude for the project. sadly not more people think like this, always better to start small then work your way up. then again most people consider custom water-cooling a large endeavor, LOL good luck man, ill be a few months behind you with a TEC, Currently i am loving my ice system, and i am not ready to destroy it just yet.

Thanks a lot. Going through the nitty-gritty of stuff makes us think of new ways to do it. Even failed theories may lead to successful ones. Right now I'm setting up a spreadsheet for calculations while my equips aren't delivered. But I will be documenting it all here as I progress.

 

[threefingeredjack]

Hi Ryan,

I've been working on a system of my own regarding the Peltier TEC idea, just found yours on the net. Looks complicated! I was wondering if you'd take a look at what I'm proposing and tell me your thoughts? I've put a thread on overclockers, as linked here:

http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?p=24673938#post24673938

My theory is that the high temperatures of the hot side of the TEC can be dispersed through the radiator externally by a fan, down to ambient temp, having collected the heat from the CPU as well. Meanwhile, the return is passed through a heat exchanger in the super chilled section of a sealed tank. Take a look.

I'm interested in how you've wired yours up, and how you control it all. These TEC plates seem simple enough, and I read your warnings on amp draw, so I'll bear that in mind when I install. My MOBO came with some clever programme which controls fan speeds, I was wondering if I could plug into this and convince it to regulate voltages of the TEC according to the CPU temps, as well as the pump flow rates. Theres probably some ratio of control, probably graphable, which can be used here, speeding up the pump while reducing the TEC voltage, and viceversa, so as to prevent overheating/cooling the tanks?

 

[thequn]

A. No your mother board cannot control the TEC fan controls are a max of 5 volts.
B. aluminum is not good for water-cooling loops due to corrosive nature of it. best if its all copper. unless you gonna use that anti freeze inside the loop as well and in the chamber.

The big issue is the one loops, I see two possibility ether its wont work at all or it will work so well that it wont work at all.
If it is gonna work that rad must be able to disperses the heat on one cycle on entering the radiator. otherwise its will be to hot once entering the cool Coil
how large are theses bulk heads? how large is the Rad? how long and with is the cool coil?


Also this is a really cool idea,

 

[thequn]

fallow up question how are you goina take the cold and add it to the cold bulkhead? and the same with the top??

 

[mlcaouette]

Hey 4ryan6, can you help me get my peltier to run off my 12v rail? It seems my power supply has some safety feature causing it to shut down as soon as I try and power the peltier off the 12v rail. The peltier will run just fine off the 5v red wire but anytime I try and use 12v yellow wires it will come on for a second then power off and need to be reset.

I've tried the PCI-e 6+2pin wires, the 4+4pin motherboard wires, and the yellow ones from the 20+4pin all with the same results.

Here is the power supply which only runs the peltier and the two fans on the 212+:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182200

Here are the peltier specs:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1-PCS-50mm-TEC1-12726-TEC-Thermoelectric-Cooler-Peltier-15V-26A-400-Watt-/160905717333

Any ideas are appreciated!

Feel free to PM me if you don't want to muck up this thread.

 

[4Ryan6]

Hey 4ryan6, can you help me get my peltier to run off my 12v rail? It seems my power supply has some safety feature causing it to shut down as soon as I try and power the peltier off the 12v rail. The peltier will run just fine off the 5v red wire but anytime I try and use 12v yellow wires it will come on for a second then power off and need to be reset.

I've tried the PCI-e 6+2pin wires, the 4+4pin motherboard wires, and the yellow ones from the 20+4pin all with the same results.

Here is the power supply which only runs the peltier and the two fans on the 212+:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182200

Here are the peltier specs:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1-PCS-50mm-TEC1-12726-TEC-Thermoelectric-Cooler-Peltier-15V-26A-400-Watt-/160905717333

Any ideas are appreciated!

Feel free to PM me if you don't want to muck up this thread.

Do not run your cooling fans for the 212+ off the same power supply powering the peltier, that's bad, the power supply may sense it's an overload with the molex cables connected, run the power for the cooling fans from the main computer by extending the 4 pin molex.

The peltier should be powered by a stand alone power supply, period.

The peltier is a constant load according to your P/S and Peltier specs, the peltier is using half the P/Ss available amperage and 2/3rds the P/Ss available wattage, that is a 400w peltier you have.

Minus the mumbo jumbo talk from the sidelines that you're only supplying 12v, so you're not using the spec load, but unless you test the actual draw load you really don't know, the peltier is made in China and it may be exactly as rated or not.

I am getting my power from the 8 pin M/B connector, = (4 yellow 12v positive and 4 black 12v negative 14 gauge wires).

I'm using 2 of the yellow 14g 12v positive wires soldered to a single 12g lead wire from the P/S to the peltier, and 2 of the black 14g 12v negative soldered to the negative side of the 12g lead wire.

Using a 12g lead wire to handle the current between the P/S and Peltier keeps the wiring from overheating.

Hope this helps.

 

[4Ryan6]

Hi Ryan,

I've been working on a system of my own regarding the Peltier TEC idea, just found yours on the net. Looks complicated! I was wondering if you'd take a look at what I'm proposing and tell me your thoughts? I've put a thread on overclockers, as linked here:

http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?p=24673938#post24673938

My theory is that the high temperatures of the hot side of the TEC can be dispersed through the radiator externally by a fan, down to ambient temp, having collected the heat from the CPU as well. Meanwhile, the return is passed through a heat exchanger in the super chilled section of a sealed tank. Take a look.

I'm interested in how you've wired yours up, and how you control it all. These TEC plates seem simple enough, and I read your warnings on amp draw, so I'll bear that in mind when I install. My MOBO came with some clever programme which controls fan speeds, I was wondering if I could plug into this and convince it to regulate voltages of the TEC according to the CPU temps, as well as the pump flow rates. Theres probably some ratio of control, probably graphable, which can be used here, speeding up the pump while reducing the TEC voltage, and viceversa, so as to prevent overheating/cooling the tanks?

Thegun has provided some excellent answers and some good questions for you.

So where are we at now?

 

[mlcaouette]

Thanks for the suggestions, as soon as I have some time to move some wiring around I will give that a try and I'll let you now if it is successful.

 

[4Ryan6]

Your sig link to Coolimus Prime isn't working?

 

[threefingeredjack]

fallow up question how are you goina take the cold and add it to the cold bulkhead? and the same with the top??

Not sure what you mean by "take the cold and add it to the cold bulkhead", maybe the image wasn't clear. Sorry, the hot and cold chambers are part of a singe theoretical container, which is separated into a top and bottom chamber by a single central bulkhead, this bulkhead will house the TEC plate and exchange heat between the top and bottom chambers. Heat from the lower chamber to be drawn out and moved upwards into the upper chamber. The bulkhead will allow contact between the fluid in the lower part and the cold side of the TEC, and fluid in the upper part and hot side of the TEC.

Yes I figured on not using water inside the loop as per corrosion and danger to internal components of the PC. I was thinking antifreeze throughout or possibly mineral oil, or some alternative, at this point it's a hypothetical liquid with good heat exchange properties. I'll find out whats it called later 😛

"It'll work so well that it won't work at all"? I don't follow, I'm afraid.

The idea with the single loop was to round off the issue Ryan seemed to refer to regarding the difficulty of controlling the temperatures on either side of the TEC. Ie, when the hot plate is cooled down too far the cold plate doesn't cool as much or something to that effect. In my head that looks like a sharp negative bell curve, which I imagine if you're also pumping varying degrees of hot through it from the CPU, the TEC is going to have to be all over the place trying to keep on top of it. SO! I figured, if you run the heat from the CPU and TEC together through the same radiator/air cooled heat sink, getting down to ambient as best as possible, (so not, no exact size of radiator, just the biggest I can afford, or a number in sequence) then the resultant liquid temperature leading back into the cold chamber will always be more or less the same temperature, whatever ambient is. Ergo, the TEC can be tuned to run at a more specific voltage, as heat from the CPU will be lost in the fluid of the hot chamber. As long as you can cool the hot chamber, the CPU temp doesn't matter.

Also, chamber volumes, not sure, there is likely some math can be applied here to give a figure, however, lets just ball park go with whatever Ryan used in his cold tank reservoir thing? Seemed to do the job I'm not an expert hence why I am asking you guys, it seems like it would work in my head, provided the heat from the radiator can be dispersed. I have an old chimney hole in the wall I was going to put the radiator into. Big, big radiator. Lots of fans. Dedicated PSU all that jazz.

What else. Yes, right, pumps, in the wrong place. Should be between the CPU and hot tank. Ignore that. And... the shape of the hot and cold chambers is hypothetical too, the one I was debating building doesn't have a bulkhead but is instead two separate chambers in a sort of hourglass arrangement so there is no contact between the hot and cold sides, they also have internal insulation against the walls. But, that over complicates things and I don't have CAD access right now.

so that lot in mind, what do you think? Ryan is the expert it seems as he's actually built one of these devices which works, so, Ryan, do you think that your system could be enhanced using a single loop system such as this or is something I don't understand going to occur resulting in a resonant cascade scenario transporting me to Xen with no hope of return but to find the Gman?

 

[4Ryan6]

The idea with the single loop was to round off the issue Ryan seemed to refer to regarding the difficulty of controlling the temperatures on either side of the TEC. Ie, when the hot plate is cooled down too far the cold plate doesn't cool as much or something to that effect. In my head that looks like a sharp negative bell curve, which I imagine if you're also pumping varying degrees of hot through it from the CPU, the TEC is going to have to be all over the place trying to keep on top of it. SO! I figured, if you run the heat from the CPU and TEC together through the same radiator/air cooled heat sink, getting down to ambient as best as possible, (so not, no exact size of radiator, just the biggest I can afford, or a number in sequence) then the resultant liquid temperature leading back into the cold chamber will always be more or less the same temperature, whatever ambient is. Ergo, the TEC can be tuned to run at a more specific voltage, as heat from the CPU will be lost in the fluid of the hot chamber. As long as you can cool the hot chamber, the CPU temp doesn't matter.

Also, chamber volumes, not sure, there is likely some math can be applied here to give a figure, however, lets just ball park go with whatever Ryan used in his cold tank reservoir thing? Seemed to do the job I'm not an expert hence why I am asking you guys, it seems like it would work in my head, provided the heat from the radiator can be dispersed. I have an old chimney hole in the wall I was going to put the radiator into. Big, big radiator. Lots of fans. Dedicated PSU all that jazz.

What else. Yes, right, pumps, in the wrong place. Should be between the CPU and hot tank. Ignore that. And... the shape of the hot and cold chambers is hypothetical too, the one I was debating building doesn't have a bulkhead but is instead two separate chambers in a sort of hourglass arrangement so there is no contact between the hot and cold sides, they also have internal insulation against the walls. But, that over complicates things and I don't have CAD access right now.

so that lot in mind, what do you think? Ryan is the expert it seems as he's actually built one of these devices which works, so, Ryan, do you think that your system could be enhanced using a single loop system such as this or is something I don't understand going to occur resulting in a resonant cascade scenario transporting me to Xen with no hope of return but to find the Gman?

When the peltiers are considered and people start doing the math as they have in the past and also at OCN they tell my ideas wouldn't work and then continue to explain to me why!

My disillusion at that point is, "What about fully operational for over 8 months do you not understand?".

Edit: That was not directed at you!

I am not running my peltiers at their maximum voltage range, so they're not actually pulling the max wattage or amperage load, which puts them into a performance level that can be cooled with a good quality air cooled heat pipe heat sink.

In simple terms I am producing more cold being transferred to the water than the CPU requires to be cooled, the additional cold goes to my insulated reservoir where it is stored, allowing the water temperature to drop in the reservoir to it hits a point of balance usually around 8.5c below a 25c ambient.

Your ideas may have merit or not, I don't know, as I have not tried them, so I cannot and will not advise you regarding areas I have not actually tested myself.

The system I have described in this thread does work, if you duplicate the Peltier/Heat Sink & 110cfm fans/Water Block assembly, Insulated Reservoir, and Pump, it will perform close to exactly the same as mine does.

That's a solid given I can share with everyone, OK.

When it comes to me speculating on your proposal setup you're basically on your own and if you decide to go forward with testing your ideas, I wish you the best.

Now let me answer what I do have the information to share with you.

Ryan seemed to refer to regarding the difficulty of controlling the temperatures on either side of the TEC. Ie, when the hot plate is cooled down too far the cold plate doesn't cool as much or something to that effect.

The term is stalling out the peltier, which is a common thing.

The stalling occured in the beginning with testing the fan speeds on the heat pipe air coolers, too low a fan speed and the hot side of the peltier got too hot, to the point the hot from the hot side affected the cold on the cold side, and kept the cold from dropping low enough.

Increasing the fan speeds dropped the hot side low enough the cold side was not affected and it constantly produced cold, BINGO! that's what you want!

The stall can also happen in reverse if the cold side gets too cold, as the thickness of the peltier is only about 1/8th of an inch, but a cold stall is another worry and not a concern with my setup.

So after reading this, what questions do you have?

Note: The ideas I had in the beginning, no matter what anyone said, I was going to pursue them whether they worked or not.