Question Tower system power cuts out with a click sound ?

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Richard1234

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Aug 18, 2016
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Hi,
I built a system based on extensive advice from Aeacus over a year ago, namely https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/new-build-questions.3836713/

full system:

MSI ACE mobo
AMD 7950X3D CPU
RTX 4060 GPU
Corsair DDR5 RAM
Enthoo Pro case
Prime TX-1600 PSU
Dark Rock Pro 5 cooler
Noctua A14 fans

everything has been fine till now, but a recurring problem has emerged.

I have been doing a lot of backups of mainly 2T magnetic drives, and also verifying the copies are correct, over several days.
some backups can take more than 12 hours. so the machine has been under heavier use than normal for many days.

as I am trying to migrate my storage from USB2 enclosed sata magnetic drives to USB3 drives, mostly magnetic but a few SSDs, eg 5T magnetic USB3 ones, and 4T SSDs, and some 2T and 1T SSDs.

whilst one of some 490gigabytes was verifying, I went for a walk, and returned to find the PC had powered down. the lights on the Corsair ram was on. But I couldnt wake up the machine. Eventually I tried to power it off with the power switch at the top of the the Enthoo and nothing happened. so I powered it off at the mains.

now what happens is sometimes it will boot like now, but at some point there is a click from the machine and the power goes, but the Corsair rainbow lights continue. Other times the power cuts out before it reaches the boot options. It is quite frustrating.

I tried powering off all the USB hubs, as I have three USB3 hubs with 10 ports each, ie 30 USB3 sockets via hubs and more than 20 are in use, but at any time I might just use maybe 4 of those. the others are connected up but are powered off. I have the Sabrent 10 hubs. Items are powered off at the mains switch if mains powered, or at the hub socket switch if powered by the hub. The idea being to minimise attaching and detaching as that wears out the contacts and the hub becomes junk.

and also detached the sata cables to 2 magnetic drives in the tower in case any of these was the cause of the problem. but the problem persists, I can power up sometimes like now, but at some point there is a click from inside the machine and the power goes, but the Corsair memory modules rainbow lights continue. And the power button at the top of the machine doesnt work to power off fully.

I cant determine where the click is coming from.
 
UK power socket works only in one way. So, if you have no issues turning the power plug around every time you try to plug it in but fail to rotate properly, then there is no issue using USB type-A either, to turn it around.
photo of UK power plug showing how super optimal the idea is,

where there is only one way to insert it, which is the optimal way, with the cable flush with the wall and descending vertically, and not sticking out where it can get knocked. Been there done that with german ones.

you cannot compare that in any shape or form with the USB A socket, which sticks out and is confusing as to which way round.

so there is an issue with the USB A, that it is confusing which way round 180° looks pretty much identical to 0°, not good. UK power plugs, 180° is totally different, its like a "because" symbol rather than a "therefore" symbol and the cable goes in the wrong direction on the wall.

british plugs are also a really stable attachment, as the plug meets the socket along a wide planar zone which means a super precise and stable attachment, furthermore the socket grips the plug, its as stable as Molex and much less effort. A masterclass in how to do plug attachments.

german plugs are very rickety attachments. because the surface area where the plug meets the socket is very small surface area.

USB C sockets also are a bit rickety, where you can rock them sideways, not possible with UK mains sockets, absolutely rock solid attachment.

some DVI had screws to stabilise, not necessary with british mains plugs.

on my mobo some of the USB connectors are really rickety, JUSB1 etc in the manual.

my mobo has an example of super stupid design where you literally have to take the machine apart to change the battery for the BIOS. When I said this to the firm, they said but the battery lasts a long time, you bet, and people use their computers an even longer time, and I have had batteries run out, where you get errors from websites about certificates being in the future! as the computer's clock is wrong. The mobo battery is low tech, so can be on a lead and even better if it were accessible from the back panel, now that would be good design. there is sufficient unused space on the back panel to do this.
 
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if I get the PR2200ELCDSL, do I need to buy some extra cables to run it from the UK mains?

in particular cables from the UK mains to the UPS, and then cables from the UPS to say multiplugs. The multiplugs are UK mains plug and sockets.
Well, UPS comes with the power cable that has IEC C19 in one end (that plugs into UPS'es IEC C20 to power it) and has CEE 7/3 Schuko on the other end to plug to the mains.
If you do not have the round euro socket, only UK ones, then yes, you need to buy new power cable. And also cables to connect from UPS'es output IEC C19 to whatever you need afterwards (e.g PSU, monitor).

where it says replacement battery 1 for both devices, does that mean there are 2 batteries total?
Replacement battery is single unit, which is actually 4x batteries daisy-chained together.
Specs: https://www.cyberpower.com/au/en/product/sku/rbp0116#specification

I tried finding an item of weight 25.5kg, I found one of 6kg, one of 8kg, one of 11kg, the 11kg is just about manageable. I think just on basis of weight, I might not get the 25.5kg one.
25.5kg isn't that bad. My doggo weighs 29.8kg and i can lift him up and carry him around for a while.

You can always call neighbor/friend/relative to help you move it, if you don't have enough strength on your own.

with both of them, is it ok to have say the laptop and the tower PC powered at the same time?
Sure you can.

can you daisychain 2 of the 1000Watt ones?
Very bad idea + then some. :no:

Why?
Further reading: https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/support/eaton-answers/daisy-chain-ups.html

Eaton is one of the best UPS manufacturers. Others include: APC, CyberPower and TrippLite.

the people who designed molex I think were dentists in their previous lives!
4-pin MOLEX connector is robust and works. But it is very hard to separate them. One of the worst ones to unplug. 2nd one would be 24-pin ATX.

You praise the UK connector, but i see safety issues with it. Namely, when you pull the plug half-way out, pins still are energized and it is easy to get finger in there, to get zapped.
Schuko sockets all use safe recess design (17.5mm deep). Meaning that even when you partly pull the plug out, you can not get your finger into it to touch the live pins and get zapped.

Schuko sockets also have two earthing clips, which connect to the socket before the live and neutral pins make a connection.

Another fault that i see with UK plugs is that the plug is held in place only by the pins in the socket. Where, when the pins are broken, the plug falls off.
But for Schuko, the entire plastic socket is holding the plug in place, without it accidentally unplugging when something should hit against it. Schuko plug remains seated in the socket regardless.

And for Schuko, it is very common for the power cable to have 90 degree turn as well, making it even more flush to the wall than UK plug is (since plug enters into the recessed socket).
Here's the pic of Schuko plugs in my kitchen. Three in a row, with leftmost and middle being occupied by Schuko and rightmost is europlug.
I measured the distance from the wall to the most protruding point of the Schuko power cable and it is 29 mm. So, very flush to the wall.

fSVNeSv.jpeg
 
Well, UPS comes with the power cable that has IEC C19 in one end (that plugs into UPS'es IEC C20 to power it) and has CEE 7/3 Schuko on the other end to plug to the mains.
If you do not have the round euro socket, only UK ones, then yes, you need to buy new power cable. And also cables to connect from UPS'es output IEC C19 to whatever you need afterwards (e.g PSU, monitor).


Replacement battery is single unit, which is actually 4x batteries daisy-chained together.
Specs: https://www.cyberpower.com/au/en/product/sku/rbp0116#specification

can the user separate those batteries for easier transport, ie to move the batteries one at a time.



25.5kg isn't that bad. My doggo weighs 29.8kg and i can lift him up and carry him around for a while.

You can always call neighbor/friend/relative to help you move it, if you don't have enough strength on your own.
I can lift that, the problem is it is strenuous, and if you arent careful it can lead to major pain later on.

especially as it is a heavy weight near the ground, that is where you can run into spinal injuries, where you get severe pain some hours later, which lasts for some days. I got that problem once lifting a set of 75cm x 25cm wall tiles!

Sure you can.


Very bad idea + then some. :no:

Why?
Further reading: https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/support/eaton-answers/daisy-chain-ups.html
ok, I wont try that!

so the UPS's are only designed for a certain kind of downstream device, not for a general device such as another UPS!

Eaton is one of the best UPS manufacturers. Others include: APC, CyberPower and TrippLite.


4-pin MOLEX connector is robust and works. But it is very hard to separate them. One of the worst ones to unplug. 2nd one would be 24-pin ATX.

You praise the UK connector, but i see safety issues with it. Namely, when you pull the plug half-way out, pins still are energized and it is easy to get finger in there, to get zapped.

I dont think so!

the UK ones there are 3 prongs, and the earth prong is longer than the other 2.

you cannot insert say a screwdriver into the lower 2 holes. when you insert the plug, the longer upper prong goes in first, and it pushes aside a cover for the other 2 prongs. so eg in the 1970s to use a 2 prong plug, you had to insert a screwdriver in the upper hole to release the cover for the 2 prongs! the only thing you could do was safe!

photo showing how live and neutral holes are shielded by inner cover

photo showing longer earth prong and shielded outer of other 2 prongs

as you remove it, the covers return, also the outer part of the other 2 prongs is insulated, at least in this era they are, see 2nd photo above, not sure if they were in the 1970s. But all the ones I have checked just now have the shielding shown in the 2nd photo, which is probably part of the current safety standard. the fact they have that insulation means they must have thought of your objection and they ensure there is no exposed zone with charge for the short distance where the live and neutral are connected.

so I think the danger zone is covered by that insulating if there is any zone where they are exposed. I would have to experiment with an uninstalled wall socket to determine for sure.

the problem with shoku is by default they are like the one on the right, which is very rickety, you could move that from side to side, and it is easily knocked of. we only get that problem for plugs designed for other countries! In Germany, a few were like your ones on the left, but most were like the one on the right, and some were a cylindrical plug, and it extended too far where it could get knocked.

the UK ones are flush by default, which means less sway problem, ones which go perpendicular to the wall maximise the sideways sway problem, and also each UK plug can have its own fuse and you can open it up and change the fuse.

also with multiplugs, all ones designed for the UK extend the same direction, the problem is some are non UK ones and go the wrong way!

some items such as transformers with multiple attachments for each country have the power cable leaving the wrong way, upwards. but the well designed ones, have the power cable descending downwards, working with gravity. where that is idiot proof, as an ignorant person cannot insert it the wrong way, whereas the ones on the left in your photo an idiot could insert that with the cable going upwards!

a major problem with transformers is the cable eventually snaps right where it leaves the transformer, and the shoku etc ones exacerbate this problem. whereas UK ones with descending cable minimise this problem.

with your ones on the left, the wall socket needs a recess for that to fit, so it is inefficient as the plug has to extend to fit, and the wall has to recess, where there is a redundancy of extending of the one, and recess of the other. the UK one accomplishes a stable fit at the prong level and the larger flat surface area of contact, and internal gripping of the prongs, and the use of 3 prongs over a 2D triangle, rather than contriving the entire plug to fit in a recess! so no recess and no extended shape needed.

the UK one has the 3 prongs set in 2 dimensions in a triangle, whereas your shoku ones and eg sata, usb, etc are kind of linear. sata has that L shape to guide, but the UK ones are outright 2D and not 1D and that creates enormous stability. the linear arrangement of pins, leads to instability in all directions, sway in the line of the pins, and sway in the perpendicular line. a bit iffy!

USB A has moderate stability by the rectangular encasement of the contacts, but checking some just now, all have slight sway. USBC has major sway problem, eg with the supplied HP one for my HP touchscreen laptop from during covid.

so in terms of stability, the UK power socket is undisputed champion! where it has an entire suite of different features to get stability, and not too much effort to unplug.

and eg the IEC ones have the sway problem, UK ones have zero sway if you insert them fully, the UK plugs and sockets are much more sophisticated than the german ones. and also the rectangular cross section of each prong helps to hold it precisely. as you have an edge of alignment and not just a point which a circle will have.

if you havent used a UK one then you wont understand the stability of these, as you cannot imagine what is way beyond what you have experienced!

in 1976 they in fact still had ones of an earlier era, where it was the same idea but the prongs were circular, and there were 2 sizes, one size was much smaller than today's, but there were also the modern rectangular prong ones, and soon the circular ones were obsolete. I only saw those in the 1976 era. We were living overseas before 1976. So I dont know what the UK was like before 1976!
Schuko sockets all use safe recess design (17.5mm deep). Meaning that even when you partly pull the plug out, you can not get your finger into it to touch the live pins and get zapped.

Schuko sockets also have two earthing clips, which connect to the socket before the live and neutral pins make a connection.

Another fault that i see with UK plugs is that the plug is held in place only by the pins in the socket. Where, when the pins are broken, the plug falls off.

the pins wont break, they are rock solid brass. it would be major work for you to break those!

whereas shoku has these flimsy pins.

But for Schuko, the entire plastic socket is holding the plug in place, without it accidentally unplugging when something should hit against it. Schuko plug remains seated in the socket regardless.
the UK ones have long prongs, and it needs a bit of effort to pull them out, never had a problem with those getting knocked in nearly 50 years! it just doesnt happen, you are imagining things which dont happen!

but the shoku on the right in your photo those are very easily knocked.

the ones on the left are more stable, but still there is an instability of being held by just 2 pins, 3 pins is vastly more stable! that encasement is there because you need it to mitigate that instability, UK ones dont have the encasement because they have much more stability and it would be redundant.

if you look at the earlier photo, you will see there is a large area of contact of the plug with the socket case, which gives enormous stability.

in fact if you look at the one on the right in your photo, it has an extra groove, as the circular encasement is evidently not sufficient for stability!

And for Schuko, it is very common for the power cable to have 90 degree turn as well, making it even more flush to the wall than UK plug is (since plug enters into the recessed socket).

it is similar and better, but the UK has that 90 degrees by design, not as an option. and the firm who made the one on the right didnt choose the right option. with UK ones, they are idiot proof, where that idiot firm would have been forced to make it like the ones on the left! that one on the right is such a flimsy arrangement and is the default.

also a major design defect of your photo is there is no power switch per plug. UK ones by default have power switches, see first photo above. in fact I wont buy multiplugs which dont have individual power switches, some dont, as I like to leave things like hard drives permanently plugged in, and just power on with the power switch as it is much less effort. Not all devices have their own power switches, eg the iron where that plug in the photos is of that iron, it doesnt have its own power switch. But I just use the one at the socket!

Here's the pic of Schuko plugs in my kitchen. Three in a row, with leftmost and middle being occupied by Schuko and rightmost is europlug.
the europlug has to be one of the worst designed power plugs! what a load of flimsy junk! and it is used for so many things, which shows the wisdom of idiot proof design, as there are a lot of idiots who make decisions affecting everyone. We do get those in this country, but from ones imported from europe.

I measured the distance from the wall to the most protruding point of the Schuko power cable and it is 29 mm. So, very flush to the wall.
you can have the UK wall socket flush with the wall, but that is more work and more expensive as they have to cut out an exact rectangle from the wall, whereas the ones which are set above the wall like in my photo, they only have to create a smaller imprecise hole in the wall.

with things like sinks and induction hobs, you can have those flush with the granite, but it is much more expensive, and also means trickier to replace, as the new one has to fit exactly. whereas set above ones are cheaper and more practical. At one shop they told me the flush ones are just for the showrooms, dont get one at home.

the one in the above photos is 22mm from the socket surface, the one for my HP laptop is 14mm, so is half the protrusion of yours. the one for my integral old era Dyson DC04 is 21mm. The ones for my multiplugs, both the recent higher quality ones and older low quality ones are all 19mm. the problem is your shoku isnt designed for this, the UK ones you screw in the wire to the brass pin at 90°, which seems to save about 1cm of protrusion!

as a general principle, things which are designed in are much more efficient than things which are workarounds! this is why you should spend much more time on design before you start implementing. engineers generally rush in to implement, when that is a false economy. 5 minutes spent on design will save an hour of implementation.

the UK ones were designed in to be flush by 1976. whereas the german system, where much of northern europe uses the same concepts, eg scandinavia, Germany, and evidently Estonia, the system was designed to protrude out. eg when I watch dramas from northern europe, eg Sweden, Denmark, etc, it looks just like Berlin. the streets, the buildings, all the fixtures. but is all totally different from the UK.

 
Well, UPS comes with the power cable that has IEC C19 in one end (that plugs into UPS'es IEC C20 to power it) and has CEE 7/3 Schuko on the other end to plug to the mains.
If you do not have the round euro socket, only UK ones, then yes, you need to buy new power cable. And also cables to connect from UPS'es output IEC C19 to whatever you need afterwards (e.g PSU, monitor).


Replacement battery is single unit, which is actually 4x batteries daisy-chained together.
Specs: https://www.cyberpower.com/au/en/product/sku/rbp0116#specification


25.5kg isn't that bad. My doggo weighs 29.8kg and i can lift him up and carry him around for a while.
could you recommend some specific cables for the pr2200elcdsl, both from the mains to the UPS, and from the UPS to something with the UK socket, where I will plug in a multiplug.

I havent decided yet, I did arrange 3 items adding up to 24kg, and I can lift this, but to transport it across the house would be very strenuous. I have a porters trolley, but I would have to move things out of the way for it to get through.

the specification says input voltage range 151-296Vac, whereas the 1000W one is 169-271,

certifications CE, EAC, RCM, whereas the 1000W one is just CE,

are these further things useful that the 2200 has?

online thermal dissipation BTU/hr, the 1000W one is 24, whereas the 2200 is 155, so maybe the latter makes the room much hotter?

as regards the Seasonic, they say I have to send it back in the original box with all accessories, so I will have to work on that later tonight. as its a warranty claim for a fault, I dont see why I have to send back all the accessories, as I want it fixed and not a refund!

a lot of people throw away boxes as nowhere to store these, and with the main consumer electronics shop in town for warranty claims you just need to bring the item, no need for the box and extras.

when I bought the panasonic wide screen passive 3D TV, the box and polystyrene was ginormous, it wasnt feasible to keep that, I literally filled the car with the junk to take to the recycling centre.

for a refund where you have just bought an item, then I can see you need to return it as bought.
 
can the user separate those batteries for easier transport, ie to move the batteries one at a time.
Well, UPS comes with batteries installed into it. And while you could disassemble UPS and take the batteries out, it would be quite a bit of work. Since battery terminals are fastened quite securely.

It would be easier to move it as a whole. Or pay someone to move it for you.

I havent decided yet, I did arrange 3 items adding up to 24kg, and I can lift this, but to transport it across the house would be very strenuous. I have a porters trolley, but I would have to move things out of the way for it to get through.
You'll manage.
If there is a will - there is a way. :)

could you recommend some specific cables for the pr2200elcdsl, both from the mains to the UPS, and from the UPS to something with the UK socket, where I will plug in a multiplug.
Here's one such cable to power UPS (UK plug to C19),
amazon UK: https://www.amazon.co.uk/BYDT-Meters-C19-Power-Extension-Black/dp/B0CMT61M86

And from UPS C13 to UK socket (cable/adapter itself is C14 to UK);
cable version (different lengths): https://www.amazon.co.uk/Elec-Plug-Socket-Power-Black/dp/B078WV3B4G
direct connection: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wirafix-Outlet-Socket-Adapter-Conversion-2-Pack/dp/B0DT1CDWYZ?th=1
Note: direct connection one blocks other C13 sockets near it due to it's bulky size.

the specification says input voltage range 151-296Vac, whereas the 1000W one is 169-271,
UK mains operate at 230V with variance of up to -10% and +6%. So, well within the range.

certifications CE, EAC, RCM, whereas the 1000W one is just CE,

are these further things useful that the 2200 has?
  • CE marking indicates compliance with EU safety, health, and environmental protection standards, and is mandatory for products sold in the European Economic Area (EEA).
  • EAC certification (Eurasian Conformity) is required for products sold within the Eurasian Economic Union (EAEU), which includes Russia, Belarus, Kazakhstan, Armenia, and Kyrgyzstan.
  • RCM (Regulatory Compliance Mark) is used in Australia and New Zealand to indicate that a product meets applicable safety requirements.

online thermal dissipation BTU/hr, the 1000W one is 24, whereas the 2200 is 155, so maybe the latter makes the room much hotter?
Hotter, yes, but only when in operation (battery mode and battery recharging). For normal operation, it just sits there and should not make any noise or heat output. Only when battery charger kicks in, to recharge the batteries, the active cooling will also start.

At least, this is how my CyberPower CP1300EPFCLCD UPSes operate.

Also, CybePower PR2200ELCDSL has quick-charge option, where it can recharge the battery in 3 hours, compared to normal charging that takes 8 hours. So, quick-charge for sure needs active cooling and heat dissipation.

as regards the Seasonic, they say I have to send it back in the original box with all accessories, so I will have to work on that later tonight. as its a warranty claim for a fault, I dont see why I have to send back all the accessories, as I want it fixed and not a refund!
These are the rules. You have to send everything that you got with the PSU, back to Seasonic. All the cables and packaging. Since when you bought the product, you didn't only get the main unit, but instead accessories as well (power cables). So, you have to return the product wholly back as well, for warranty claim. And not just part of the product.

Retail package where the PSU comes in, has proper cushions in it, to ensure that the PSU does not get damaged during shipping. While being as small as possible size wise.
If you do not have original packaging and/or doesn't send back everything that is required - Seasonic has no obligation to uphold the warranty because you breached the warranty.

This is so with ALL PC hardware. CPU, MoBo, RAM, case fans, SSD, HDD, GPU, PC case etc.

a lot of people throw away boxes as nowhere to store these, and with the main consumer electronics shop in town for warranty claims you just need to bring the item, no need for the box and extras.
Different brands have different warranty policies. Retail store can have it either bring just the item on-site, or bring everything. Manufacturers usually have it so where you need to ship back everything.

When manufacturer has stated that you need to return everything for being eligible for warranty, then you have to ship back everything. Since these are the warranty rules. E.g with MoBos, one thing that many people have misplaced is the small plastic cover over CPU socket. If there is no plastic cover over CPU socket when you are returning MoBo, warranty will not be upheld.
PSU wise, Seasonic needs power cables back as well, to test those too. Could be that there was a fault with some cable, that Seasonic can then discover and improve upon. Also, they research cables durability and reliability.

E.g i've kept ALL retail boxes of the stuff i've bought over the years. Sure, those take up some space (especially the retail boxes of my full-tower ATX PC cases) but option is: keep the box until warranty lasts OR throw away the box and say goodbye to warranty.
To me, warranty is important. If i wouldn't care about warranty, i'd buy 2nd hand that doesn't come with warranty in the first place, while being cheaper than brand new.

when I bought the panasonic wide screen passive 3D TV, the box and polystyrene was ginormous, it wasnt feasible to keep that, I literally filled the car with the junk to take to the recycling centre.
When buying whatever hardware, what you need to keep in mind is, if it is feasible for you to keep the retail box for warranty as well or not. For packaging material (polystyrene), put it back in the retail box afterwards. Then you only need place where to store the box itself.

the problem with shoku is by default they are like the one on the right, which is very rickety, you could move that from side to side, and it is easily knocked of.
The right one isn't Schuko, but instead Europlug.

Europlug fits into many different sockets, including type C, E, F, H, J, K, L, N and O.

Countries where Europlug is compatible:

330px-Map_of_Europlug-compatible_sockets.svg.png


While Schuko has much less coverage. Blue on this image:

250px-Europe_current_mains_electricity_plug_types.svg.png


some items such as transformers with multiple attachments for each country have the power cable leaving the wrong way, upwards. but the well designed ones, have the power cable descending downwards, working with gravity. where that is idiot proof, as an ignorant person cannot insert it the wrong way, whereas the ones on the left in your photo an idiot could insert that with the cable going upwards!
Thing is, with Schuko, there is 0 difference if to plug the 90 degree connector into socket where cable goes downwards or upwards. It works both ways and without issues.
Due to that, Schuko is better since i don't have to accurately align the cable. I can plug it in either way.

and also each UK plug can have its own fuse and you can open it up and change the fuse.
In these nick of the woods, we have circuit breakers, rather than single use fuse inside each plug.

They look like so:

overcurrent-circuit-breaker-b32-fuse-ac.jpg


So, when there is a fault, circuit breaker kicks the specific circuit group out. Once i've located the defective device and unplug it, i afterwards flip the breaker back in to restore electricity.

Much better system than fuses inside the plugs. Because i don't have to mess with those tiny screws and fuses to replace that single use fuse. Also, no excess waste to throw away blown fuse. Not to mention no excess resource needed to produce those fuses either.

Any design that uses single use fuses is outdated.
Fuse only protects against overload. But fuse doesn't protect against short circuit nor does it have ground fault circuit interrupter, like circuit breaker does.

also a major design defect of your photo is there is no power switch per plug. UK ones by default have power switches
Yes, power sockets here doesn't have switches next to them since there is 0 point to over-engineer them and add another point of failure.
Switch is moving part, which will wear out. Heck, switch itself can fail, where when you flip it OFF, it still keeps the power ON, without 0 indication of switch failure. Or vice-versa, where you flip the switch ON but power is OFF and then you think that perhaps the device you plug into the wall has issue. While in fact, the socket switch has failed.

We have circuit breakers, from where i can switch off all sockets in my kitchen if need be. But otherwise, all sockets are powered at all times.
 
Well, UPS comes with batteries installed into it. And while you could disassemble UPS and take the batteries out, it would be quite a bit of work. Since battery terminals are fastened quite securely.

It would be easier to move it as a whole. Or pay someone to move it for you.


You'll manage.
If there is a will - there is a way. :)


Here's one such cable to power UPS (UK plug to C19),
amazon UK: https://www.amazon.co.uk/BYDT-Meters-C19-Power-Extension-Black/dp/B0CMT61M86

And from UPS C13 to UK socket (cable/adapter itself is C14 to UK);
cable version (different lengths): https://www.amazon.co.uk/Elec-Plug-Socket-Power-Black/dp/B078WV3B4G
direct connection: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wirafix-Outlet-Socket-Adapter-Conversion-2-Pack/dp/B0DT1CDWYZ?th=1
Note: direct connection one blocks other C13 sockets near it due to it's bulky size.
thanks for the links, I have noted them, and will think over which to go for.


UK mains operate at 230V with variance of up to -10% and +6%. So, well within the range.
  • CE marking indicates compliance with EU safety, health, and environmental protection standards, and is mandatory for products sold in the European Economic Area (EEA).
  • EAC certification (Eurasian Conformity) is required for products sold within the Eurasian Economic Union (EAEU), which includes Russia, Belarus, Kazakhstan, Armenia, and Kyrgyzstan.
  • RCM (Regulatory Compliance Mark) is used in Australia and New Zealand to indicate that a product meets applicable safety requirements.

Hotter, yes, but only when in operation (battery mode and battery recharging). For normal operation, it just sits there and should not make any noise or heat output. Only when battery charger kicks in, to recharge the batteries, the active cooling will also start.

At least, this is how my CyberPower CP1300EPFCLCD UPSes operate.

Also, CybePower PR2200ELCDSL has quick-charge option, where it can recharge the battery in 3 hours, compared to normal charging that takes 8 hours. So, quick-charge for sure needs active cooling and heat dissipation.
as the backup is only needed very infrequently, maybe not worth having the quick charge.


These are the rules. You have to send everything that you got with the PSU, back to Seasonic. All the cables and packaging. Since when you bought the product, you didn't only get the main unit, but instead accessories as well (power cables). So, you have to return the product wholly back as well, for warranty claim. And not just part of the product.

Retail package where the PSU comes in, has proper cushions in it, to ensure that the PSU does not get damaged during shipping. While being as small as possible size wise.
If you do not have original packaging and/or doesn't send back everything that is required - Seasonic has no obligation to uphold the warranty because you breached the warranty.

I just think these rules are disingenuous, so that they can reject most warranty claims, ie the warranty is a kind of a bluff. and eg warranties of hard disks will mostly not be actioned because you dont want them going through your private data!

when I had my kitchen renovated, the installer was junking directly the boxes for the washing machine etc, as all the boxes would literally fill up half the kitchen! He filled up an entire skip with all the junk.

laws are needed to force manufacturers to not demand the return of irrelevant things such as the boxes where the item develops a fault. For a newly purchased item where you want a refund, then yes you have to return everything, but not 5 years later for a 12 year warranty, that is unfair trading.

the UK actually has extensive legislation against unfair trading, eg this document explains such:

unfair trading rules

eg you arent allowed to hide onerous terms in a kilometre of terms and conditions as consumers generally dont read these fully, see clause 29:

"When drafting contracts, it is important to take into account how consumers actually behave in practice, including for instance the fact that most consumers do not read standard written contracts thoroughly before making a purchase."

and firms will create a kilometre to make it impossible to be aware of such!

according to the rules, onerous terms must be prominently stated. the warranty is basically a contract, so technically I think these rules are illegal unfair trading. eg I am hearing these rules for the first time from you, thus they werent prominently stated. When I say prominently stated I mean a bit like the health warnings on cigarette boxes.

the way consumers behave in practice is to junk all boxes, eg if you are student you just dont have the space to keep all boxes.

unfair trading is where things are tilted in favour of the business and to the disadvantage of the consumer.

these firms arent god, they shouldnt be allowed to make promises based on impossible conditions. if they wont accept just the defective item, they should be banned by law from giving a warranty. I might email my MP on this.

this is where its better to buy from say currys.co.uk which is the main consumer electronics shop here, as they usually give their own warranty, where you dont have to bring back the box etc.

This is so with ALL PC hardware. CPU, MoBo, RAM, case fans, SSD, HDD, GPU, PC case etc.

Different brands have different warranty policies. Retail store can have it either bring just the item on-site, or bring everything. Manufacturers usually have it so where you need to ship back everything.
its unfair trading.

eg just the fans were a huge pile of boxes, I cant keep all that junk which will never be used again except for a warranty claim! ie if they are good, I should never have to keep the boxes, so if they expect me to keep the boxes that means they dont think they are that good, and are trying to prevent me action my warranty.

When manufacturer has stated that you need to return everything for being eligible for warranty, then you have to ship back everything.

warranties cannot override the law, so if the law is changed to ban this kind of unfair trading, they cant put it in their warranty policy.

With the Currys electrical store, you dont even need the receipt for a warranty claim, as they have that info on their computers. eg I got my logitech MX Keys S keyboard replaced on an unlimited replacement shop warranty, without receipt, without box, without charging cable, I just brought the keyboard in and they actioned the warranty, where I got a brand new one in a box.

Since these are the warranty rules. E.g with MoBos, one thing that many people have misplaced is the small plastic cover over CPU socket. If there is no plastic cover over CPU socket when you are returning MoBo, warranty will not be upheld.
it is unfair trading, because if the mobo is kaput, that is the big problem, not the missing cpu cover which isnt needed to use the cpu. as you say "many people", and the unfair trading rules say firms have to conform to how consumers actually behave, where your word "many" implies how consumers actually behave, and not what the manufacturer's draconian rules say. the way consumers actually behave is they junk all such things.

PSU wise, Seasonic needs power cables back as well, to test those too. Could be that there was a fault with some cable, that Seasonic can then discover and improve upon. Also, they research cables durability and reliability.

E.g i've kept ALL retail boxes of the stuff i've bought over the years. Sure, those take up some space (especially the retail boxes of my full-tower ATX PC cases) but option is: keep the box until warranty lasts OR throw away the box and say goodbye to warranty.

you shouldnt have to make that decision! the day will come when you run out of space, for me that day came around 2021!

To me, warranty is important. If i wouldn't care about warranty, i'd buy 2nd hand that doesn't come with warranty in the first place, while being cheaper than brand new.
I agree 100%, but they shouldnt be allowed to give warranties which expect all the irrelevant temporary junk to be preserved in a museum.


When buying whatever hardware, what you need to keep in mind is, if it is feasible for you to keep the retail box for warranty as well or not. For packaging material (polystyrene), put it back in the retail box afterwards. Then you only need place where to store the box itself.

The right one isn't Schuko, but instead Europlug.
the 2 prong ones are all the same for me!

for me a proper wall plug has 3 prongs!

2 prongs leads to a problem of swaying, lacks stability. no good.


Europlug fits into many different sockets, including type C, E, F, H, J, K, L, N and O.

Countries where Europlug is compatible:

330px-Map_of_Europlug-compatible_sockets.svg.png
its a jack of all trades, works everywhere, and is rubbish everywhere!

I think it doesnt even have an earth cable!

standard UK plugs all have an earth cable, now some devices dont use the earth wire, eg international products. But the lack of an earth cable means those plugs arent general purpose.

the earth is there for a reason, if you dont use it, could lead to problems.

While Schuko has much less coverage. Blue on this image:


250px-Europe_current_mains_electricity_plug_types.svg.png



Thing is, with Schuko, there is 0 difference if to plug the 90 degree connector into socket where cable goes downwards or upwards. It works both ways and without issues.
going upwards isnt so good as it is leveraging out the plug. the plug might resist, but it still isnt good as it is creating stress, and could cause movement whilst in use.

UK plugs stick like a limpet, and only need mild force to remove.

you need to buy a UK multiplug, and some UK plugs and try them out for a while.

good ideas arent a democracy! this is the problem with chatbot AI, that it is based on a voting principle.

really good ideas are practised by fewer people!

Due to that, Schuko is better since i don't have to accurately align the cable. I can plug it in either way.

that's like saying its better to not have a standard side of the road to drive on, just drive on either side, as you can drive on whichever side you wish.

you havent used both systems, I have, and when you have used both you will never want to use ANY of those german systems. those plugs on the left have to be ginormous. my HP entire plug is 14mm, your plug is 29mm plus the stuff within the recess. it is humungous. big clunky blob.


In these nick of the woods, we have circuit breakers, rather than single use fuse inside each plug.

They look like so:

overcurrent-circuit-breaker-b32-fuse-ac.jpg


So, when there is a fault, circuit breaker kicks the specific circuit group out. Once i've located the defective device and unplug it, i afterwards flip the breaker back in to restore electricity.
we have those, eg see that photo I uploaded further back in this topic.

UK consumer unit

But not all houses have those, and also some devices need more protection than the above system gives.

and eg for the kitchen, I like to have the power off for the induction hob, but the power on for the oven for its clock. individual power switches gives finer grain control.

where I use the power switch on the wall, rather than going via the consumer unit.

the thing is you cant miss what you dont know, and you cant really know what you havent experienced, you can only imagine it in terms of what you have experienced.

eg it is not possible to imagine university if you have only been to school, and not possible to imagine school if you have never been to school!

and eg I cannot imagine what Estonia is like, as I havent been there. I have to imagine it based on countries I have visited, but that isnt the same. Even if I watch a film about Estonia its not enough. eg we had a film Undergods which I think might have been filmed in Estonia.
Much better system than fuses inside the plugs. Because i don't have to mess with those tiny screws and fuses to replace that single use fuse.
In the last 20 years, I doubt I have changed a fuse more than twice. so you are exaggerating the problem!

Also, no excess waste to throw away blown fuse. Not to mention no excess resource needed to produce those fuses either.
I have used so few fuses, that I still have some Woolworths ones that I bought around 1998, where Woolworths went bankrupt in the 2008 financial crisis. that is how rarely one changes fuses! where I still have the ones I bought almost 30 years ago! the entire idea of a fuse is like a warranty, that it is never used! this is why quality goods have generous rules, as they know these will virtually never be invoked. I wanted to buy some bathroom taps, they had 2 very similar ones, but one was twice the price. I asked why, the guy said because those have a 10 year guarantee, the others have a 5 year. I said: so what? the guy said: the 10 year guarantee means they expect them to last at least 10 years, the 5 year ones are expected to last at least 5 years. so the warranties are kind of an empty promise.


Any design that uses single use fuses is outdated.
Fuse only protects against overload. But fuse doesn't protect against short circuit nor does it have ground fault circuit interrupter, like circuit breaker does.


Yes, power sockets here doesn't have switches next to them since there is 0 point to over-engineer them and add another point of failure.
Switch is moving part, which will wear out.
although they can wear out, I have NEVER had a wall socket power switch wear out ever! I think they are very solidly made, where they literally last forever. eg I switch on and off the one for my microwave every time I use it, and that socket was installed in 2013. so 12 years, at least 6 times switched per day, so that is 12 x 365.25 x 6 = 26298 uses, and it is still going fine!

I switch that one every time, because I used to leave microwaves on permanently, and one microwave went kaput a few weeks after the warranty ran out. And a monitor developed a fault a few weeks after the warranty. so I figured these devices have a timer based self destruct function to force you to buy a new one. After that I began switching off at the wall socket whenever not in use, all devices eg monitors, microwaves, etc. and the microwave ovens have lasted a really long time! you cant do that with your system, you would have to pull the plug out and reinsert it 26298 times! sounds a bit iffy!

what has worn out is the switches on multisocket adaptors, as those arent so well made. Typically I have gotten one eventually go bad per multisocket. I think the wall sockets have more stringent standards.

that one in the photo is from 1978, almost 50 years, and functioning fine!

its not over engineering, its a way to power off without having to pull out the plug. it is underengineering to not have individual power switches. with a 2 storey house, that would mean the person has to go downstairs just to power off, a lot can happen in that delay! not good. this place is one storey, but most places arent.

I cannot use a multiadapter which doesnt have individual power switches! I literally am junking any I can find, as it is too inconvenient. in the old days I didnt check if the multiplugs had individual switches, but now these arent an option as most devices I attach dont have their own power switches, just not an option to not have individual power switches. Some such as my plustek 35mm scanner have a power switch at the device, but not for the transformer. I dont want that transformer on for years and years, just for a few hours per many months that I might do some scanning. it is foolish to leave things powered on that are mostly not used.

I have so many devices which dont have their own power switch, which arent used often eg my external bluray writer, has a transformer, so I dont want to have to pull the plug out each time I have finished with it. instead I just use the switch at the multisocket.

I think it is absolutely crazy to have wall sockets which dont have their own switches!

unacceptable!

this is the thing that you havent experienced the UK scenario, so you are imagining what it is like, but you can never imagine what is beyond what you have experienced! eg before I learnt to drive, I imagined what the lessons would be like, but the actual lessons 300% different. Then when I was getting lessons I imagined what having my own car would be like, but when I got my own car, 300% different.

but I have experienced both, and can tell you without hesitating that the UK system is 10x as good as the german system, which is what you have. I actually took a UK multiplug to Germany to use instead as it is so much better than the junk they sell there.

if you run into a problem with a machine, which doesnt trigger the "fuse box", by which I include your circuit breakers, and eg say you are a student in a hostel room, you dont have the authority to switch off the circuitbreaker for the building. individual power switches is much more localised.

there is a saying that you cant miss what you dont know.

but once you experience what you are missing, you might never want to go back to what you used to do. eg I used to use the buses and never missed anything. but now I have had a car for 9 years, I could never go back.

Heck, switch itself can fail, where when you flip it OFF, it still keeps the power ON, without 0 indication of switch failure. Or vice-versa, where you flip the switch ON but power is OFF and then you think that perhaps the device you plug into the wall has issue. While in fact, the socket switch has failed.
as mentioned, has never happened to me for a wall socket switch, only for multiplug switches.

but you can always tell, because when the multiplug ones fail, as the switch doesnt click when you press it, and there is no tactile discontinuity. so there is no uncertainty. when you try pressing it, it doesnt remain in the other position, and no click.

where with the one for the microwave oven, which I switch on for every meal, and off after the meal, and also on and off for every other usage, that has been used more than 26000 times and is still going fine. That one was installed by an electrician, and bought from a trade store used by electricians, not from a supermarket!

the worst multisocket ones are from supermarkets!

We have circuit breakers, from where i can switch off all sockets in my kitchen if need be. But otherwise, all sockets are powered at all times.
I can do that, see above photo, but that is way over the top!

eg I dont like leaving the power on for my electrical hobs, as once 2 came on when having a siesta whilst some food cooked on the other hobs, and I had a frying pan covered in cling film and the cling film melted onto the pan. After that I dont like leaving the power on unsupervised. But the oven has a clock, so I want the oven on permanently. in the UK we have special wall switches for high power devices. photo of arrangement:

kitchen plugs

where the red switch powers off the hob, currently it is actually on as I forgot to switch it off!
 
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Well, UPS comes with batteries installed into it. And while you could disassemble UPS and take the batteries out, it would be quite a bit of work. Since battery terminals are fastened quite securely.

It would be easier to move it as a whole. Or pay someone to move it for you.


You'll manage.
If there is a will - there is a way. :)
I am still trying to decide!

one thing I was thinking of is if I put my bluray TV recorder on it also, where maybe the 1980Watt one is better. but the recorder is in a different part of the room. Then I thought what if I buy the 1000Watt one, and later buy a 2nd one to put the bluray recorder, and maybe the widescreen TV on, nearer to where those are. I dont know if it is suitable for those.

the bluray recorder has been powered for many years, eg I have it programmed to record the top of the pops rebroadcasts, so it needs to be on standby all the time as those broadcasts are at unpredictable times, but the programmer records them whenever they are.

BTW here is a photo of one of my multiplugs for my computer devices:

multiplugs

as you can see there are individual power switches, and 2nd from the left, that one the lead goes the wrong direction, that one is for my german 35mm scanner, where they dont understand the UK system! but all the others go in the right direction, and all including the german one are as secure as limpets. there is no sway at all, no give or take. rock solid connections. The UK system has some kind of physical stability and minimalism that other systems dont have. I think with british commonwealth countries they often use either the same or similar ones to the UK, sometimes the circular prongs like the UK used to have long ago.

in the photo, hub 2.3 is for the laptop, 2.2 and 2.1 for the tower, and as you can see only hub 2.1 is powered up. the speakers are powered down. the leftmost one is for another multiplug. with the upper multiplug, the leftmost is for the Corsair PSU, and the rightmost for another multiplug. there is a 3rd multiplug not in the photo which has the laptop plug, the bluray writer plug, a USB3 enclosure plug, a battery charger, and all of those are powered off. where I power on the specific items I intend to use.


Here's one such cable to power UPS (UK plug to C19),
amazon UK: https://www.amazon.co.uk/BYDT-Meters-C19-Power-Extension-Black/dp/B0CMT61M86

And from UPS C13 to UK socket (cable/adapter itself is C14 to UK);
cable version (different lengths): https://www.amazon.co.uk/Elec-Plug-Socket-Power-Black/dp/B078WV3B4G
direct connection: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wirafix-Outlet-Socket-Adapter-Conversion-2-Pack/dp/B0DT1CDWYZ?th=1
Note: direct connection one blocks other C13 sockets near it due to it's bulky size.
looking at the photo on the specification page, I think that C14 one would work for the 1000Watt one also?

UK mains operate at 230V with variance of up to -10% and +6%. So, well within the range.

I thought they were referring to abnormal voltages! you are saying those voltage ranges mean the normal mains voltages? (rather than surges and other aberrational voltages)

if I use a splitter for one outlet of these two UPSes is that the same as using 2 outlets?

and is the decision between the 2 UPS models really a question of how many minutes I will get in a power cut?

where you appear to say I will use max 300 Watts for the computer stuff, so there is another 700 watts of leeway for say the bluray recorder and tv. but as those need the antenna cable, it would be better to get a 2nd UPS for those 2, if a UPS is appropriate. but maybe to use a long extension lead from the UPS.

The TV says 164 Watts, it is something like 50", anything bigger would obstruct the room too much! it is an active 3D one, I bought one just before they stopped selling such. with 3D filming it is incredible if you get the distances right, eg filming some wild plants, insects fly around in 3D! It is HD, but the 3D bluray TV recorder and 3D camcorder all also HD, so a higher res would be redundant for the combined system.

the bluray recorder says 32 Watts,

if I did put all those on a long extension lead, would the 1000Watt handle the entirety of computer, monitor, drives, where these usually are 188Watts total, and then also the TV and bluray recorder.

the A3 scanner transformer says 18 Watts,
the 35mm scanner transformer says 15Watts max output,

the laptop transformer says 65 Watts,

the extras so far add up to 294Watts,

the printer which is in a different room says 27Watts when printing, when not printing much lower power, eg ready mode 7.1W, sleep mode 0.8W, power off 0.2W. that one I do leave in power off mode as it is tricky to get to the plug.

but say hypothetically if it was connected up, would the 1000Watt UPS readily handle all of the above?

most of the stuff would be powered off at the mains, so is it just that the 1980Watt one might give me more than twice as many minutes in a powercut?
 
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These are the rules. You have to send everything that you got with the PSU, back to Seasonic. All the cables and packaging. Since when you bought the product, you didn't only get the main unit, but instead accessories as well (power cables). So, you have to return the product wholly back as well, for warranty claim. And not just part of the product.
Since these are the warranty rules. E.g with MoBos, one thing that many people have misplaced is the small plastic cover over CPU socket. If there is no plastic cover over CPU socket when you are returning MoBo, warranty will not be upheld.

with the document on unfair trading, namely unfair trading document,

clause 28 says:

--------------------
Agreements with consumers should not contain concealed pitfalls or traps, and terms that might disadvantage the consumer should be given appropriate prominence.
--------------------

I think this thing of having to send back all kinds of obscure things eg the CPU cover, counts as a "concealed pitfall or trap", and thus is definitely unfair trading. Such things have to be prominently stated, where it is impossible to miss the problem, like the health warnings on cigarette boxes. That document is from before Brexit in the EU era, and some of the legislation mentioned may be EU legislation also.

you have to warn customers right when they buy the item, what will void their warranty beyond the item itself.

they havent done that, so I think they are breaking consumer legislation.
 
and is the decision between the 2 UPS models really a question of how many minutes I will get in a power cut?
Yes.

300W load on 1000W UPS gives you 19.5 mins of runtime on battery power.
300W load on 1980W UPS gives you 54 mins of runtime on battery power.

That, and also the weight of the UPS and cost of it.

looking at the photo on the specification page, I think that C14 one would work for the 1000Watt one also?
Yes.

Back end of 100W UPS:

c8f6078c-7564-4f0a-a11d-789ab1b2ff26

Direct link if image doesn't load: https://www.cyberpower.com/eu/en/File/GetImageByGuid/c8f6078c-7564-4f0a-a11d-789ab1b2ff26

For input, it has C14 socket, but it should come with C13 to UK power cable.
For output, it has 4x C13 sockets and 2x UK sockets.

where you appear to say I will use max 300 Watts for the computer stuff, so there is another 700 watts of leeway for say the bluray recorder and tv. but as those need the antenna cable, it would be better to get a 2nd UPS for those 2, if a UPS is appropriate. but maybe to use a long extension lead from the UPS.
If you plan to plug into UPS more hardware than just your PC, it would be better to buy two 1000W UPSes, rather than one, big, heavy 1980W UPS.

This way, it is far easier to move them around (1000W one weighs only 11kg) and you don't have to run long power cords from the UPS to whatever hardware (TV, blu-ray etc).

E.g like i did with my UPSes. The two PCs are in the same room, but it is better for each PC to have their own dedicated UPS.
After unboxing.

Lxj0Fgi.jpeg


Power-on testing.

r58l6n9.jpeg


UPS in service for my PC.

67n1xg7.jpeg


UPS in service for missus'es PC.

ZUnbZZG.jpeg

if I did put all those on a long extension lead, would the 1000Watt handle the entirety of computer, monitor, drives, where these usually are 188Watts total, and then also the TV and bluray recorder.
It should.

Now, you can go with 1000W UPS now and if you think that you may need 2nd UPS as well, for other hardware in your home, without the need to run long power cords to the hardware, you can buy 2nd 1000W UPS for them as well.

the printer which is in a different room says 27Watts when printing, when not printing much lower power, eg ready mode 7.1W, sleep mode 0.8W, power off 0.2W. that one I do leave in power off mode as it is tricky to get to the plug.
Do note that printer, scanner and the like (full list in your UPS manual), doesn't plug into UPS since their start-up power spike is too much for UPS to handle.

most of the stuff would be powered off at the mains, so is it just that the 1980Watt one might give me more than twice as many minutes in a powercut?
Beefier UPS just gives longer runtime on battery power, given the load is same between the two UPSes.

1980W UPS makes sense IF you either:
* want longer runtime
* total wattage consumption exceeds 1000W

eg you arent allowed to hide onerous terms in a kilometre of terms and conditions as consumers generally dont read these fully, see clause 29:

"When drafting contracts, it is important to take into account how consumers actually behave in practice, including for instance the fact that most consumers do not read standard written contracts thoroughly before making a purchase."

and firms will create a kilometre to make it impossible to be aware of such!

according to the rules, onerous terms must be prominently stated. the warranty is basically a contract, so technically I think these rules are illegal unfair trading. eg I am hearing these rules for the first time from you, thus they werent prominently stated. When I say prominently stated I mean a bit like the health warnings on cigarette boxes.
"Ignorantia juris non excusat."
and
"Caveat Emptor"
When a product is allowed to be sold in UK, then it's warranty policies are also in accordance of the UK laws.
Just because you aren't bothered to read warranty policy and aren't aware of it, doesn't excuse you to follow it.

People are versatile creatures and are able to learn. This also means to learn to keep the retail boxes for warranty claims, rather than throwing them away.

On similar example;
Public transport, namely busses. Busses go from bus stop to bus stop, to take people onboard and let people exit the bus. Both inter-city and in rural areas.
Now, i don't know how it is in UK, but when you're walking alongside the road, can you flag the passing bus to stop and take you on board? Or do you have to walk to a bus stop to get onto the bus?
Or when riding the bus, can you make the driver stop at any given spot to let you out? Or can you only exit at the bus stop?

Here, people have to walk to a bus stop to get onto the bus. And can exit only at the bus stops. No in-between entry/exit of the bus.
Long distance busses between major cities even won't stop at small bus stops, instead only at specific bus stops shown in the route.

With this, one could argue that it is unfair for people, when they have to walk to/from bus stop (often 100-200m, sometimes even 500m to 1km in rural areas) and it would be fair if they can get on/off the bus at their convenient place, rather than at the bus stop. Yet, these are the rules and people can learn and adapt to this kind of system.

these firms arent god, they shouldnt be allowed to make promises based on impossible conditions. if they wont accept just the defective item, they should be banned by law from giving a warranty. I might email my MP on this.
Warranty is there for the consumers and not for the manufacturer.
So, if warranty would be banned by the law, manufacturers will win from it and big time. While consumers will suffer and greatly.

E.g EU law states that any hardware sold in EU, must have minimum of 2 years warranty. If all manufacturers would uphold that, none of the hardware would have longer warranty than 2 years. Meaning your Noctua fans wouldn't have 6 year warranty, but instead 2 year one. Or your Corsair PSU warranty would drop for 10 years to 2 years. Seasonic PSU warranty from 12 years to 2 years.

Longer warranty than mandated by law, shows the reliability of the hardware, while also showing honesty from the brand and increases brand reputation.
Since after all, warranty essentially states that the manufacturer gives you a guarantee, that their product will last at least that amount of time (6 years, 10 years, 12 years) and if it does not, then manufacturer will replace the defective product at their own cost.
There are even lifetime warranties out there. E.g my Kingston RAM has lifetime warranty. Meaning that as long as i own and use it - it has warranty. Be it 10, 20 or 50 years.

clause 28 says:

--------------------
Agreements with consumers should not contain concealed pitfalls or traps, and terms that might disadvantage the consumer should be given appropriate prominence.
--------------------
Here's the keyword: "should not".

There is a big difference between "should not" and "must not".

This is what i've seen people mistaken in often. Where text clearly states "should not", but people read it as "must not". Or when text says "up to", people read it as "given".

For the latter, good example is CPU turbo frequency, which for e.g your CPU is up to 5.7 Ghz.
Specs: https://www.amd.com/en/products/processors/desktops/ryzen/7000-series/amd-ryzen-9-7950x3d.html

But there are many people who think that the turbo clock of 5.7 Ghz is given and CPU has to run at those speeds. And when CPU can't run at that speed, but instead reaches 5.5 Ghz, some people think they didn't get what they payed for and complain about it.
I've had to then explain to those folks, that CPU base frequency is 4.2 Ghz and CPU can turbo up to 5.7 Ghz, not that CPU must run at 5.7 Ghz. So, when CPU turbos anywhere between 4.3 Ghz and 5.7 Ghz, then this is expected and completely within the specs of "up to".
 
Yes.

300W load on 1000W UPS gives you 19.5 mins of runtime on battery power.
300W load on 1980W UPS gives you 54 mins of runtime on battery power.

That, and also the weight of the UPS and cost of it.
when I need the UPS, it will probably be at most 188Watts, which then would be at least 30 minutes with the 1000W. The TV and bluray machine wont be on, the bluray machine will be in sleep mode ready to record, but otherwise off.

I will think it over, I think from what you said and the fact it will generally be max 188 watts, that I have to decide if 30 minutes is sufficient.

Yes.

Back end of 100W UPS:

c8f6078c-7564-4f0a-a11d-789ab1b2ff26

Direct link if image doesn't load: https://www.cyberpower.com/eu/en/File/GetImageByGuid/c8f6078c-7564-4f0a-a11d-789ab1b2ff26

For input, it has C14 socket, but it should come with C13 to UK power cable.
For output, it has 4x C13 sockets and 2x UK sockets.


If you plan to plug into UPS more hardware than just your PC, it would be better to buy two 1000W UPSes, rather than one, big, heavy 1980W UPS.

This way, it is far easier to move them around (1000W one weighs only 11kg) and you don't have to run long power cords from the UPS to whatever hardware (TV, blu-ray etc).

E.g like i did with my UPSes. The two PCs are in the same room, but it is better for each PC to have their own dedicated UPS.
After unboxing.

Lxj0Fgi.jpeg


Power-on testing.

r58l6n9.jpeg


UPS in service for my PC.

67n1xg7.jpeg


UPS in service for missus'es PC.

ZUnbZZG.jpeg


It should.

Now, you can go with 1000W UPS now and if you think that you may need 2nd UPS as well, for other hardware in your home, without the need to run long power cords to the hardware, you can buy 2nd 1000W UPS for them as well.


Do note that printer, scanner and the like (full list in your UPS manual), doesn't plug into UPS since their start-up power spike is too much for UPS to handle.


Beefier UPS just gives longer runtime on battery power, given the load is same between the two UPSes.

1980W UPS makes sense IF you either:
* want longer runtime
* total wattage consumption exceeds 1000W

"Ignorantia juris non excusat."
and
"Caveat Emptor"
yes, but you are quoting Estonian law, just because your legal principles are stated in latin and ours are, doesnt mean they are the same. each country has different laws and rights. our laws are created by Westminster and the appeals courts, they dont apply to Estonia, and estonian laws dont apply here!

When a product is allowed to be sold in UK, then it's warranty policies are also in accordance of the UK laws.
not necessarily!

"allowed to be sold" doesnt cover their terms and conditions! those can be 100% illegal and they can do it.

the laws only cover things like safety standards and other standards, and tariff laws, things like you cant just bring in animals without conforming to protocols eg the UK is a rabies free zone, so dogs have to conform to rabies quarantine protocols. not the terms and conditions. imports are just covered by customs & excise, they arent contract law solicitors, so they have no idea at all about whether the t&c are valid. NOBODY checks that other than the firm making the contract, and the customer disputing it. The t&c in any case are often in the factory sealed box! so the customs officials have no idea what the t&c are!

in fact they could write out an illegal contract right in front of the head of police, the top judges, the prime minister, and cannot be stopped, as you can only stop such in a civil case where you allege a liability of more than £25000. The head of the justice system cannot stop them, as he himself hasnt experienced a liability of 25000. for disputes less than 25000, all that the customer can do is get a refund.

in Russia it is different, as they dont follow the rule of law, Putin will do whatever he wants.

warranties are civil law, and thus you have to go to a court to enforce or dispute them from either side, also if the dispute is below £10000 in the UK, it has to be done at the small claims court, and the firm has to attend the small claims court of the customer eg Bristol for me, and thus its a false economy for most firms, where they then just settle out of court. cases between 10000 and 25000 are covered by a system called "fast track" which isnt a full legal process. The police will not help you eg if you get scammed, as that is civil law. The police only cover other forms of law eg public order.

hence there are a lot of scams for amounts below 10000, and scams are usually below 25000, as all you can force is a refund.

Seasonic will have to send someone to Bristol to the nearest small claims court to me, pay for a hotel etc for their lawyer to contest their claim, and thus it is cheaper just to replace or refund, but not admit liability.

basically nobody checks contracts other than the people who write them, so as long as they are in favour of the person who writes them, they lose nothing if they put illegal things in it.

I did some study of the basics of contract law, and the ambient law always overrides contracts. contracts are civil law, and there are tons of appeals court cases which decide either way.

you can only go to a proper court for disputes over £25000 as lawyers fees are more than the amount disputed for any amount less.

in fact with civil disputes, the opposing parties have to try and resolve it between themselves first before it goes to court. eg I disputed how an investment firm processed an investment, and I had to complete the dispute with the firm before I could go to the financial ombudsman. The firm then redid it the way I said.

those latin expressions cover laws and not contracts! eg caveat emptor applies to houses, so the only way to be safe is to involve a conveyancing lawyer and a chartered surveyor to assess the house you want to purchase. hence purchases go in more than one phase, where a "For sale" sign changes to a "Sold s.t.c" sign, where s.t.c means "subject to contract", basically the buyer has time to arrange for a chartered survey, and also the deal only completes maybe 3 or 4 months later when the conveyancing lawyer has completed all his checks, eg the house might be on a mortgage, where the seller doesnt have the right to sell it. Most sales in fact are via a mortgage firm, who will arrange their own chartered surveyor.

contracts arent laws! they are just an agreement between 2 parties, and various parts of those agreements may be illegal, ie not enforceable, yet you can put them, where they are often put as a bluff.

so for example, on ebay, listings often will say "no returns" or "buyer pays postage for return", but if the item is defective or if it isnt as described then not only are they forced to accept the return, even if they said no return, but also they have to pay the postage also. Been there, done that. But you have to allow them to arrange the return postage for them to pay it. if you arranged it then you pay it.

and that is because of contract law, namely breach of contract. eg the listing says a Duracell battery 1.5V, but you receive a Varta 9V, by contract law they have to accept a return and pay the postage, as the contract is breached by not sending a Duracell 1.5V. terms of a contract are only enforceable if legal and if the firm has abided by their side of the deal, eg the items need to be as described and functioning unless stated otherwise. eg some people will sell a defunct item "for spare parts".

ebay enforces this overriding the sellers terms. but even if ebay didnt enforce, you can enforce them yourself at a small claims court. a contract is only enforceable eg "no returns" if both sides have conformed to their part of the agreement. if the item isnt as listed, then that is a breach of contract and they have to accept a return, and your "caveat emptor" is not true!

the buyer doesnt have to beware if the item isnt as described, as that is breach of contract, now the seller could run away, but not if you bought from a firm with a registered address, although they could go bankrupt before you can action the refund. Its best if the deal is in writing, otherwise it is your word against theirs. texts, emails, letters will all be alright. even spoken agreements are contracts, but the other person can pretend they never said things.

buyer beware would only apply to ensuring the seller doesnt run away, eg if you buy from a stranger in a pub, or if they go bankrupt! eg I bought an exercise bike from a firm with all parts replaceable forever. but the firm went bankrupt and I couldnt then get a replacement spanner. Luckily I eventually found the bespoke spanner.

ultimately it goes to the small claims court, and in 99% of cases even with scamsters, they give you an instant refund rather than go to the small claims court. But most people dont know their rights, so the bluffing in contracts works on most people. eg I got scammed by someone in Peru, not a peruvian but someone using Peru to be difficult to catch, and I bought a virus checker, but in fact it was a virus! I then quoted some law from advice from the Citizens Advice Bureau, threatening to go to the small claims court if he didnt give me a refund, and I got an instant refund and a warning to not use the software any more as it was now refunded!


Just because you aren't bothered to read warranty policy and aren't aware of it, doesn't excuse you to follow it.
I disagree, warranties are civil law, and thus arent the law at all. they are just arbitrary terms and conditions.

those latin expressions you gave only cover laws, not terms & conditions.

terms and conditions arent laws, but are covered by laws, contract law.

to be legally enforceable a contract needs to involve "consideration", ie this for that. so eg if I say I will give you a Seasonic PSu, and I then dont, you cannot legally force me to give you the Seasonic, as it wasnt in exchange for anything. but if I said: I will give you a Seasonic if you clean my car and you clean the car, then it is enforceable.

"caveat emptor" does apply specifically to houses, so eg if the seller didnt tell you there was subsidence or rising damp, then it is your fault.

but maybe if they said there wasnt subsidence and rising damp, and there was you might be able to sue them for fraud by false representation.

caveat emptor definitely applies to anything not mentioned, but I think with a machine, it is assumed to be functioning unless stated otherwise. But as you can live quite happily in a house with subsidence, it isnt assumed to not have this. people buy houses that they know have subsidence all the time, as it is just a subtle problem.

terms and conditions can only be forced through a civil lawsuit, and only if they are legal. There is nothing stopping terms and conditions being illegal!

you could arrange a contract which is 1 terabyte of terms and conditions, and then 500 Gig into the contract it says they can kidnap you if you buy the item.

nobody at all can stop them putting such a term.


People are versatile creatures and are able to learn. This also means to learn to keep the retail boxes for warranty claims, rather than throwing them away.

On similar example;
Public transport, namely busses. Busses go from bus stop to bus stop, to take people onboard and let people exit the bus. Both inter-city and in rural areas.
Now, i don't know how it is in UK, but when you're walking alongside the road, can you flag the passing bus to stop and take you on board? Or do you have to walk to a bus stop to get onto the bus?
Or when riding the bus, can you make the driver stop at any given spot to let you out? Or can you only exit at the bus stop?
in rural places and the countryside in the UK, the driver will usually let you off where you want. not in cities as too many people.

for getting on the bus away from the bus stop, in the countryside a specific driver might do that if the specific passenger is a regular passenger.

dont forget Estonia is former soviet union, where in the soviet union everyone in a position of authority tries to throw their weight around and obstructs every liberty.

where the general attitude of officials is "no you cant".

and a lot of those attitudes carry over to the post soviet era. Whereas in the UK, virtually everything is privately owned, even the buses and trains and electric power firms from the Thatcher era onwards.

in the soviet union, all firms were part of the government, so every job was a government job. even some small shop in Russia was government owned. I think even all accomodation was government owned, there was no private ownership of land or buildings. All schools were state schools. whereas in the UK virtually everything is privately owned: the land, the buildings, the companies, are virtually all private. The best schools are privately owned businesses. Hospitals are virtually all government owned, the NHS. By default you go to a state school. Land registry deals with who owns every square inch of land and every building in the UK. when you buy land or buildings, the ownership info is changed at land registry. A conveyancing lawyer will check if the seller is on the deeds at land registry.

with the Dr Zhivago film with Omar Sharif, the guy returns to their mansion, and finds the soviets have filled the house with peasants!

my grandfather bought a building in East Berlin, which was seized by the DDR (East Germany), and he got 0 pfennigs for it. Only after reunification, we got the building back, complete with tenants!

but the rent was not commercially viable and rent rises protected by laws, where it was heading to bankruptcy, so we eventually sold it.

Here, people have to walk to a bus stop to get onto the bus. And can exit only at the bus stops. No in-between entry/exit of the bus.
Long distance busses between major cities even won't stop at small bus stops, instead only at specific bus stops shown in the route.
for cities yes, or where there are a lot of passengers.

for long distance ones, if there arent many passengers the driver might drop you off where you want.

some drivers here wont even charge you anything if say the ticket machine is broken, they'll say "just get on".

for the countryside and when few passengers, it is up to the driver. some will refuse to, and some have common sense and dont have wooden hearts!

With this, one could argue that it is unfair for people, when they have to walk to/from bus stop (often 100-200m, sometimes even 500m to 1km in rural areas) and it would be fair if they can get on/off the bus at their convenient place, rather than at the bus stop. Yet, these are the rules and people can learn and adapt to this kind of system.

welcome to the soviet union!

in the UK, people have these things called hearts and also common sense. they arent all officious a** holes!


Warranty is there for the consumers and not for the manufacturer.
So, if warranty would be banned by the law, manufacturers will win from it and big time. While consumers will suffer and greatly.

E.g EU law states that any hardware sold in EU, must have minimum of 2 years warranty. If all manufacturers would uphold that, none of the hardware would have longer warranty than 2 years. Meaning your Noctua fans wouldn't have 6 year warranty, but instead 2 year one. Or your Corsair PSU warranty would drop for 10 years to 2 years. Seasonic PSU warranty from 12 years to 2 years.

Longer warranty than mandated by law, shows the reliability of the hardware, while also showing honesty from the brand and increases brand reputation.

yes, and Currys.co.uk enforce their own warranties which dont have these onerous rules. so it can be done, and that is why wherever possible I buy from them. As I get proper service and not some bluff warranty!

what I am requesting, is that warranties need to be proper warranties, and not demand you keep all the boxes.

for kitchen appliances, the amount of boxes isnt feasible to store.

Since after all, warranty essentially states that the manufacturer gives you a guarantee, that their product will last at least that amount of time (6 years, 10 years, 12 years) and if it does not, then manufacturer will replace the defective product at their own cost.
There are even lifetime warranties out there. E.g my Kingston RAM has lifetime warranty. Meaning that as long as i own and use it - it has warranty. Be it 10, 20 or 50 years.


Here's the keyword: "should not".

There is a big difference between "should not" and "must not".

possibly, but as it is less than £10000, I can take them to the small claims court, and they will have no option but to give a refund. All they can do if they attend and win is refuse to refund, but the cost of Seasonic attending Bristol will be more than that refund!

the document is a legal guidance document, so in a court you can say the legal guidance says ... should not..., so I feel this is unfair trading. They are obstructing me reading the onerous term, thus the contract is not in good faith.

 
Yes.

300W load on 1000W UPS gives you 19.5 mins of runtime on battery power.
300W load on 1980W UPS gives you 54 mins of runtime on battery power.

That, and also the weight of the UPS and cost of it.


1980W UPS makes sense IF you either:
* want longer runtime
* total wattage consumption exceeds 1000W
I have some further technical questions:

1. say there is an enduring power cut, the UPS eventually runs out of its charge after say the 19.5min and 54min respectively, the PC now powers off. later on power returns, at that point can you use the PC from the UPS?

or do you have to wait for it to recharge?

do you have to wait for it to recharge fully?

and with this, how does the 1980W compare with the 1000W, can I use the PC sooner with the 1980W?

2. can the UPS be placed "anywhere"? or are there constraints.

if I place it next to the table where I use the computer, I have verified that I can get the porter's trolley to there from the front door. although the doorway to the room is a bit problematic, I will have to move some stuff out of the way temporarily. I had all the doors changed to open outwards, so I can store things right up to the doorways.

to get it to the wall, that is more problematic, but I think I can get it there by moving a lot of things out of the way temporarily.

I bought this industrial quality paper shredder, quite heavy, and it is placed on a furniture unit with wheels, so very easy to move around once you get it installed. My exercise bike also, despite the flywheel weighing 45kg, if you tilted it, there were small wheels enabling one to move it around easily. fridges also generally have wheels at the back, so if you tilt the fridge you can wheel it around.

the danger with really heavy items is you might drop them, which might either damage the item or cause foot injury or both, and also when placing the item on the ground one side might drop causing an impact. I need to remember to wear some protective shoes! I dont know if there is any danger of electrostatic damage?

Q1 above is a potential argument for the 1980W one.

potentially I could get the 1000W one, then later if I think I need the 1980W one, to buy that, and use the 1000W one for the TV and bluray recorder, assuming the manual allows this.

One other thing, I hope they arent noisy from fans?

I dont see any decibels mentioned in the specifications.

or if just noisy when charging, or fast charging?

ordinary battery chargers dont have fans, so I dont know if these dont.

also is the heaviness because of the lead? lead as a metal is heavy (11.3g/cm3), not as heavy (dense) as gold (19.3) which is almost twice as heavy, but it is quite heavy, a bit heavier than silver (10.5). the battery presumably is lead ions, I dont know if the ions result in higher density than the metal?

BTW I eventually have found all accessories for the Seasonic! I extricated all cables from the PC, but when I checked the cable list on the box, quite a lot missing! I thought maybe they were in the mobo box, and began searching everywhere for that! Eventually saw it in a Really Useful Box, where these are misty transparent, so you can see what is inside them. But the box was under an improvised plywood shelf, with a ton of things on that. After a lot of work, I removed all the stuff, got to the box which had the mobo and 4060 boxes, but no cables! other than some weird mobo cables. Eventually I figured it might be with a stash of power cables. Located the box and BINGO! A ton of unused seasonic cables in one bag!

And all the missing ones were there! But the next problem was nearly impossible to fit everything in the box. Eventually I just about got the box shut. I have to put that box in an even bigger box to prevent any tape damage to the surface. Luckily because I sell things on ebay, I hoard cardboard boxes, where I flatten these, then when needed I regenerate the box with gorilla tape, and found a large enough one for the Seasonic. Where I will complete that later, and probably send it by UPS next day, door to door, where they will collect it from here, and the day after it is at the seller. As it needs to get there within 14 days of their email. UPS is more expensive but is the best quality courier. Their notification emails are generally confused, but they usually deliver by midday, as I think they do a lot of business to business deliveries, so need to be timely. UPS not to be confused with the UPS discussion above!

the seller is technextday.co.uk but their website seems to be down at the moment!

I will message them on ebay to fix the website!
 
say there is an enduring power cut, the UPS eventually runs out of its charge after say the 19.5min and 54min respectively, the PC now powers off. later on power returns, at that point can you use the PC from the UPS?
Yes.

or do you have to wait for it to recharge?
No.

Line-interactive topology can power the PC directly from the mains while recharging the battery at the same time.

do you have to wait for it to recharge fully?
No.

and with this, how does the 1980W compare with the 1000W, can I use the PC sooner with the 1980W?
Not sooner with beefier UPS. Instead, time where you can use the PC is identical for both UPSes.

2. can the UPS be placed "anywhere"? or are there constraints.
As long as you keep sufficient space around it free, for ventilation, it doesn't matter where you put it. On the floor, on the table etc. But it is better to put it close to the PC, so that you don't have to run that long of a power cord from UPS to the main power socket and from the UPS to the PC.

I dont know if there is any danger of electrostatic damage?
Better to ground yourself, just like when you're working with PC.

potentially I could get the 1000W one, then later if I think I need the 1980W one, to buy that, and use the 1000W one for the TV and bluray recorder, assuming the manual allows this.
TV and blu-ray are fine to be plugged to the UPS.
I linked the specs page of both UPSes, where from Download page, you can download and read the manual of either of the two.

One other thing, I hope they arent noisy from fans?
I can say for sure that 1000W UPS is dead silent. And when there is main power loss, UPS will blare it's alarm to indicate to you that it is running on battery power and you need to react to it. The alarm of it is far louder than any cooling fan. Heck, for the past 6 or so years i've used my UPSes, i have never heard the fan of UPS to turn on. Either the fan is just that silent, if there actually isn't a fan in it. 🤔 Never checked it though.

Without fan in it, there would not be any noise it generates (besides the alarm) and thus, no decibel data in the specs page as well.

Looked a bit and i think the UPSes doesn't have a fan in them.
Since when there is a fan in the UPS, e.g like this double-conversion online, rackmount, 1000W UPS has it,
specs: https://www.cyberpower.com/eu/en/product/sku/rt33010ke#specification
then noise level is clearly stated in the specs as well.

or if just noisy when charging, or fast charging?

ordinary battery chargers dont have fans, so I dont know if these dont.
Well, i haven't heard any fan noise when my UPSes have been in charging mode.

also is the heaviness because of the lead?
Yes.

Since UPSes use Sealed Lead Acid batteries, it's the battery that weighs most of the UPS'es weight.

I'll link specs pages again;
1000W UPS: https://www.cyberpower.com/eu/en/product/sku/cp1600epfclcd-uk#specification
1000W UPS battery: https://www.cyberpower.com/eu/en/product/sku/rbp0142#specification

1980W UPS: https://www.cyberpower.com/eu/en/product/sku/pr2200elcdsl#specification
1980W UPS battery: https://www.cyberpower.com/au/en/product/sku/rbp0116#specification

If you look just the battery weight, then for 1000W UPS, the battery pack alone weighs 5.36kg, while entire UPS with batteries weighs 11kg.
1980W UPS battery back weighs 10.75kg, while entire UPS with batteries weighs 25.5kg.

I extricated all cables from the PC, but when I checked the cable list on the box, quite a lot missing! I thought maybe they were in the mobo box, and began searching everywhere for that!
Well, in your ratsnest of cables everywhere, it would be difficult to locate missing cables. :) Especially if you do not have proper system in place where to store excess cables.

E.g i keep the excess PSU cables in the original bag and those bags are all inside my Seasonic S12II-520 PSU retail box. So, i know where all the excess PSU cables are located, when i need them. But those are the vanilla/default power cables, that came with the PSU.
Since my PCs are using CableMod custom sleeved power cables, i have no vanilla/default power cables in use. And the excess of CableMod cables, i keep in the CableMod retail box.
So, whenever i need to replace or RMA my PSU, i can just plop it out from the build, without needing to remove my CableMod power cables and undo the cable management in my builds.

Missus'es PC. Old PSU unfastened.
The blue power cables you see are CableMod custom sleeved power cables.

YJzRtn4.jpeg


New PSU (Seasonic PRIME TX-650 80+ Titanium) next to old PSU (Seasonic M12II-850 EVO 80+ Bronze).
In the background you can see unplugged power cables hanging.

bLBOf7a.jpeg


New PSU in place.

U7jQkrd.jpeg


No need to rip old power cables out and put new ones in, since those CableMod custom sleeved power cables are compatible with other (newer) Seasonic PSUs.

But the next problem was nearly impossible to fit everything in the box.
Well, when you got the PSU, all were neatly packed inside the box, right? So, they must fit back in as well. :)
UPS not to be confused with the UPS discussion above!
Well, i do understand when you are either talking about United Parcel Service and when you are talking about Uninterruptible Power Supply due to the text context. :)

I disagree, warranties are civil law, and thus arent the law at all. they are just arbitrary terms and conditions.
Warranty policy is part of the contract that you agreed upon when buying said hardware. And with a contract, you have an option to either accept the terms of that contract and abide by it, thus being able to use said product. Or refuse the contract, return the item, get your money back (or don't buy the item in the first place) and won't get to use the product. Simple as that.

Since you bought the Seasonic PSU, with the point of purchase, you automatically agreed with all the terms of service regards of using the said PSU and also with warranty terms, if there is a need to return the PSU under warranty.
And this is so with all the PC hardware you have. Your AMD CPU, your MSI MoBo, your Corsair PSU, your Phanteks PC case etc. When you need to return any of them under warranty, you have to include all the excess items the product came with at the point of purchase, including their retail box. Else-ways, it isn't fair for the manufacturer when you breached the contract you agreed with at the point of purchase.

"caveat emptor" does apply specifically to houses
"Caveat emptor" applies to all items bought, since it is the principle that the buyer alone is responsible for checking the quality and suitability of goods before a purchase is made. It literally means "let the buyer beware".

welcome to the soviet union!

in the UK, people have these things called hearts and also common sense. they arent all officious a** holes!
Here, there is a reason why bus doesn't stop at any convenient place for the passenger to get on/off the bus. And that is to do with safety. Bus stop is a safe area for bus to stop and let people board and get off. Also, bus stops have walkways to/from it, for people to afterwards safely walk where they need to.
Compared when bus stops on the curb, without any pedestrian walkway path in sight, just because someone wants to get on/off the bus at that spot. Also, stopping who knows where may not be safe for the bus itself and can block traffic as well. Hence why there are dedicated bus stops.
 
Yes.


No.

Line-interactive topology can power the PC directly from the mains while recharging the battery at the same time.


No.


Not sooner with beefier UPS. Instead, time where you can use the PC is identical for both UPSes.

looks like the question then is entirely weight, price, time.

what I am thinking is once there is a power cut, best to halt everything, as the power cut could continue for hours, where the 1 hour isnt much more use than the 30 minutes. Now the 1 hour does mean if you quickly power down. you have 1 hour to do some other things later, there would be no internet as the modem uses power unless the modem could be used from the UPS, but with the modem here, the phone point for the broadband is at a distance, although I could use a long cable.

instead maybe to tether the mobile phone's internet. But I could just use the laptop from its battery for such things.

ie I dont need the 1 hour, as I can use the laptop eg say for an ebay auction which completes during the power cut.

sometimes it is better to start with a lower spec cheaper item, to see how that fares. Then if there is a real need for a higher spec one, to upgrade.

I will think over this a bit further before deciding.

As long as you keep sufficient space around it free, for ventilation, it doesn't matter where you put it. On the floor, on the table etc. But it is better to put it close to the PC, so that you don't have to run that long of a power cord from UPS to the main power socket and from the UPS to the PC.


Better to ground yourself, just like when you're working with PC.

can there be a static problem from the UPS being placed on the carpet?

TV and blu-ray are fine to be plugged to the UPS.
I linked the specs page of both UPSes, where from Download page, you can download and read the manual of either of the two.
that is an argument to get the 1000W.

The bluray is 32Watts, and probably much less when on standby, at 32 Watts that looks like could be 100 minutes.

I can say for sure that 1000W UPS is dead silent. And when there is main power loss, UPS will blare it's alarm to indicate to you that it is running on battery power and you need to react to it. The alarm of it is far louder than any cooling fan. Heck, for the past 6 or so years i've used my UPSes, i have never heard the fan of UPS to turn on. Either the fan is just that silent, if there actually isn't a fan in it. 🤔 Never checked it though.
can you control the volume of the alarm?

Without fan in it, there would not be any noise it generates (besides the alarm) and thus, no decibel data in the specs page as well.

Looked a bit and i think the UPSes doesn't have a fan in them.
Since when there is a fan in the UPS, e.g like this double-conversion online, rackmount, 1000W UPS has it,
specs: https://www.cyberpower.com/eu/en/product/sku/rt33010ke#specification
then noise level is clearly stated in the specs as well.


Well, i haven't heard any fan noise when my UPSes have been in charging mode.


Yes.

Since UPSes use Sealed Lead Acid batteries, it's the battery that weighs most of the UPS'es weight.

I'll link specs pages again;
1000W UPS: https://www.cyberpower.com/eu/en/product/sku/cp1600epfclcd-uk#specification
1000W UPS battery: https://www.cyberpower.com/eu/en/product/sku/rbp0142#specification

1980W UPS: https://www.cyberpower.com/eu/en/product/sku/pr2200elcdsl#specification
1980W UPS battery: https://www.cyberpower.com/au/en/product/sku/rbp0116#specification

If you look just the battery weight, then for 1000W UPS, the battery pack alone weighs 5.36kg, while entire UPS with batteries weighs 11kg.
1980W UPS battery back weighs 10.75kg, while entire UPS with batteries weighs 25.5kg.


Well, in your ratsnest of cables everywhere, it would be difficult to locate missing cables. :) Especially if you do not have proper system in place where to store excess cables.

E.g i keep the excess PSU cables in the original bag and those bags are all inside my Seasonic S12II-520 PSU retail box. So, i know where all the excess PSU cables are located, when i need them. But those are the vanilla/default power cables, that came with the PSU.
Since my PCs are using CableMod custom sleeved power cables, i have no vanilla/default power cables in use. And the excess of CableMod cables, i keep in the CableMod retail box.
So, whenever i need to replace or RMA my PSU, i can just plop it out from the build, without needing to remove my CableMod power cables and undo the cable management in my builds.
the problem I have is one of complexity overload, from having too much "stuff", where I am ongoingly trying to get rid of stuff, to either junk things, or sell on ebay,

now I do have systems for storing things, but because of the complexity and over a long time, I can end up forgetting the earlier system, and instating a new system!

often I keep things in the product boxes, but this time I had put them with a box filled with different power cables, and I did eventually guess they might be here.

the problem again is one of complexity overload, where if you have too many "things", whether it be ideas, or objects, or other stuff, it becomes unmanageable. you can try keeping notes, but then you might lose the notes!

or you keep notes, then forget you kept notes, and start some new notes, and end up with 2 or even more systems!

eg sometimes I have bought the same book or film twice, because I forgot I had bought it before, and hadnt watched it yet. If I had watched it, then I would remember I already have the book. you could try keeping notes of everything, and I do keep some amount of notes, but the notes themselves can proliferate!

ultimately you shouldnt have too much stuff, as you'll never be able to utilise all. These problems emerge for me because I grew up in the 1970s and 1980s when there was scarcity of stuff, you had to go to a bookshop for books, and a long trek to get to a bookshop with a lot of choice, and prices too high. so one only had few books.

now approx 2005, availability of things hugely increased, prices dropped significantly, and now the old MO of buying anything I wanted that was affordable led to too much stuff.


Missus'es PC. Old PSU unfastened.
The blue power cables you see are CableMod custom sleeved power cables.

YJzRtn4.jpeg


New PSU (Seasonic PRIME TX-650 80+ Titanium) next to old PSU (Seasonic M12II-850 EVO 80+ Bronze).
In the background you can see unplugged power cables hanging.

bLBOf7a.jpeg


New PSU in place.

U7jQkrd.jpeg


No need to rip old power cables out and put new ones in, since those CableMod custom sleeved power cables are compatible with other (newer) Seasonic PSUs.
only thing is for the RMA I have to rip everything out! I had left all the Seasonic cables in place but then they said I had to return those. so I will have to reinstall them all again eventually!

Well, when you got the PSU, all were neatly packed inside the box, right? So, they must fit back in as well. :)
the main problem seems to be that you would need to use the metal ties to tie them back, but with many the only way I can see to do that would be to force them a bit, which might deteriorate them!

I dont want to deteriorate them just to fit them in the box!

I dont know if you have ever taken apart an old fashioned mechanical clock?

if you have, it is basically impossible to reassemble it!

Well, i do understand when you are either talking about United Parcel Service and when you are talking about Uninterruptible Power Supply due to the text context. :)

in fact UPS cannot deliver the PSU to the firm's address, so am using DPD who can!

they will collect it on Monday, hopefully by midday as I dont want to wait around all day. The PSU is in a much bigger box, with a lot of shielding from knocks, with bubble wrap, crumpled paper, air bag shielding, polystyrene, you name it! the entire box is 7.9kg. I opted out of full insurance, as DPD and UPS are very meticulous, and insuring would add more than 30 quid, dubious for a kaput PSU!

if it was fully functioning then I would insure it.


Warranty policy is part of the contract that you agreed upon when buying said hardware. And with a contract, you have an option to either accept the terms of that contract and abide by it, thus being able to use said product. Or refuse the contract, return the item, get your money back (or don't buy the item in the first place) and won't get to use the product. Simple as that.

Since you bought the Seasonic PSU, with the point of purchase, you automatically agreed with all the terms of service regards of using the said PSU and also with warranty terms, if there is a need to return the PSU under warranty.
legally yes, but terms can be overridden by ambient law. Also legally I could force them to the small claims court. the dispute has to be based on an amount of money. where technically they could win, but it is a false economy for them. You are prohibited from doing a full lawsuit for a £500 PSU! full lawsuits in the UK are only allowed for disputes over 25000. smaller amounts can only be done via class action lawsuits, where eg 50 people dispute 500, totalling 25000.

what happens in practice with the small claims court, is firms settle out of court, but without admitting liability.

And this is so with all the PC hardware you have. Your AMD CPU, your MSI MoBo, your Corsair PSU, your Phanteks PC case etc. When you need to return any of them under warranty, you have to include all the excess items the product came with at the point of purchase, including their retail box. Else-ways, it isn't fair for the manufacturer when you breached the contract you agreed with at the point of purchase.

"Caveat emptor" applies to all items bought, since it is the principle that the buyer alone is responsible for checking the quality and suitability of goods before a purchase is made. It literally means "let the buyer beware".
nonetheless, if the seller says the item has some feature, or doesnt have some specific problem, you can sue them for fraud if they lied. ie you can apply a different legal principle! otherwise I could set up a webshop with all kinds of stuff, and never despatch anything, and keep the money, as the buyer should beware.

see the Fraud Act 2006:

Fraud by false representation

in fact you can be done for fraud for true but misleading information, see 2 (a) and 2(b) which allow "misleading". in a court you have to show that the person knew it was false or misleading rather than a mistake.

this is the thing about law, that there are different principles, and there is overlap and even collision of different principles.

so eg if they say no subsidence, and I find there is subsidence, they might say they didnt know, but I can then apply your other principle of "ignorance is no defence".

the caveat emptor will be where they never said the item didnt have some problem, or never said it did have some feature, and it is normal for people to use things with this deficiency, then you have no defence.

ebay enforces this, provided what they said is in their listing, or on ebay messages. if they told you outside ebay, then ebay wont help, but you could go to the small claims court.


Here, there is a reason why bus doesn't stop at any convenient place for the passenger to get on/off the bus. And that is to do with safety. Bus stop is a safe area for bus to stop and let people board and get off. Also, bus stops have walkways to/from it, for people to afterwards safely walk where they need to.
Compared when bus stops on the curb, without any pedestrian walkway path in sight, just because someone wants to get on/off the bus at that spot. Also, stopping who knows where may not be safe for the bus itself and can block traffic as well. Hence why there are dedicated bus stops.

the driver wont just drop off someone anywhere! but where it is suitable, eg if there is no traffic at all and there is a safe point. same way if you are giving someone a lift, you cant stop anywhere only where the traffic rules allow it, and if you arent holding up other vehicles, or the other passengers.

remember that sometimes you have roadworks at a bus stop, so the bus has to stop away from the bus stop!

usually a bus will let someone out away from a bus stop if there are just a few passengers, not much traffic, and there is a suitable place.

the phrase to describe this is "driver discretion", some drivers will absolutely refuse to, but others wont.

with rural buses, the driver collects the same few passengers every day, and even may be part of the same small community, so he may even drop them off at their house! The passenger might even be his relative!

with small communities, everyone is related!

legally insurance might not cover nonstandard behaviour, but this is where common sense is important, that sometimes it is obvious it is safe! eg you have to wear a hard hat on a building site. but if the work hasnt started yet, it is a redundant safety precaution.

sometimes a bus breaks down, and everyone has to leave the bus at a nonstandard point, and get on the replacement bus at a nonstandard point.

or do you think everyone should wait till they tow the bus to a bus stop?

what if the bus is on fire?

with the Grenfell tower disaster, where the cladding of the Grenfell tower block went up in flames. There were signs on the walls everywhere which said "in event of a fire, do not leave the building, wait for the fire services to rescue you". The only people who survived were the people who disobeyed that rule, they got out of the building as fast as possible. running past sign after sign saying "do not leave the building", and it was the right decision!

Some of the people who perished, were very devout religious people who obeyed all rules, and were praying to the last moment! But the people who disobeyed the rules survived! One survivor said he soaked a blanket in water, wrapped that around himself and ran through the flames!

an adept person will do all kinds of prohibited actions, because they comprehend the entire scenario and know it is safe. in fact many things can only be done by breaking some rules, you often have to break rules to enforce them, eg the police will drive on the wrong side of the road, break the speed limit, go through red traffic lights, they have to break the rules to enforce them eg to catch the person who broke one of those rules, they may need to break 5 of those rules!

rules are our servants, not our masters, and common sense should override all rules.

once travelling from the east berlin airport Schoenefeld, I got stopped by ticket inspectors on the S-bahn train, I hadnt stamped my ticket as in England you dont have to voluntarily stamp the ticket so I forgot to, ignorance was my excuse! the 2 inspectors were hassling me and saying I had to pay a fine. I then said in broken german "do I have to get the money from an ATM", but by mistake I used the russian word aftomat for ATM, where aftomat in russian means a vending machine, and as soon as I used a russian word, they instantly stopped hassling me! the one inspector took my ticket, ran down the platform stamped it for me in one of the machines, handed it back to me and said "dont do this again"! I think he thought I might be a russian agent, and couldnt take the risk!

at school I learnt german and russian!

 
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looks like the question then is entirely weight, price, time.
Yes.

can there be a static problem from the UPS being placed on the carpet?
No.

You can view UPS same as extension cord with multiple sockets. Basically these things:
But with a diff that UPS is bigger, has internal battery for power outage and AVR as well for stabilizing incoming power.

can you control the volume of the alarm?
Maybe from the dedicated PowerPanel software that you can download and manage the UPS from it.

This is the PowerPanel software to control CyberPower UPSes.

Do note that my UPS is the predecessor model of the 1000W UPS you are looking at. So, it could very well be, that your newer model UPS has even more in-depth customization than my old UPS has. But this much i can see, that i can completely turn off audible alarm, among plethora of other things (e.g schedule, voltage tuning, self-test etc.).

yao19V1.jpeg

the problem again is one of complexity overload, where if you have too many "things", whether it be ideas, or objects, or other stuff, it becomes unmanageable. you can try keeping notes, but then you might lose the notes!
Good idea: use sticky notes.

This way, when you put something in the box, stick a sticky note to it and write on it what the box contains. So, you have easy to see what is in the box, without opening it.
 
Yes.


No.

You can view UPS same as extension cord with multiple sockets. Basically these things:

But with a diff that UPS is bigger, has internal battery for power outage and AVR as well for stabilizing incoming power.
on a tangential matter, how much static risk for disk drives? eg magnetic sata ones such as WD Blue, where you can see some of the electronics, and eg some sata to USB adapters you can see some electronics, and then the SD cards. do you need to be careful with static, or are these safe from static?


Maybe from the dedicated PowerPanel software that you can download and manage the UPS from it.

This is the PowerPanel software to control CyberPower UPSes.

Do note that my UPS is the predecessor model of the 1000W UPS you are looking at. So, it could very well be, that your newer model UPS has even more in-depth customization than my old UPS has. But this much i can see, that i can completely turn off audible alarm, among plethora of other things (e.g schedule, voltage tuning, self-test etc.).

yao19V1.jpeg
what is the weight of the above UPS?

the screen image appears to say 780Watts.

Good idea: use sticky notes.

This way, when you put something in the box, stick a sticky note to it and write on it what the box contains. So, you have easy to see what is in the box, without opening it.
I do have notes on some things, with the Really Useful Boxes you can see what is inside the boxes, a bit blurry but eg that is how I located the mobo box. with some I put a sheet of paper at the edge of a box stating contents.

I do try to also keep a particular genre of things in one box, eg I have a box which is all digital camera and camcorder accessories, eg battery chargers, cables, boxes, manuals etc. Another box is PC software installation optical disks, eg for different versions of Windows, mobo driver disks, printer driver, etc. I also make iso images of hardware driver disks to the PC so if I cant find the disk, I can regenerate it from the iso.

I have various boxes which are entirely DVDs and blurays. and in fact I began junking DVD boxes and moving the DVD or bluray to a CD envelope and keeping the inlay cards. That frees up a huge amount of space, as DVD boxes are very wasteful of space.

using velcro, I in fact stored a lot of hard disks in a Really Useful box, where the drives dont rattle around if you move the box. where each drive and transformer is attached by velcro, either to the box or to other drives!

the useful thing about Really Useful boxes is they are strong, where you can stack them to the ceiling, and the lowest one will withstand the weight, and they dont lean. see photo from 2022:

column of Really Useful Boxes

that room now is filled to overflowing with stuff!

you can see just from the photo that the 3rd and 4th lowest ones are DVDs.

and I have stacked such boxes where each is really heavy. and no problem. this is a problem with cardboard boxes, that a stack of heavy ones, and the lower ones start distorting, and the column leans.

cheap supermarket boxes will disintegrate under the weight, and the column will tilt because of badly designed lids. the more modern houses in the UK have lower ceilings, eg I can touch the ceiling without standing on tiptoes. whereas old era houses had high ceilings, but you then needed a ladder to change a light bulb!

this place you dont need a ladder. and its cheaper to wallpaper or repaint the walls.

but some things I dont realise I might need later, and forget to label. and many things are one offs which dont fit any category. With plugs like in the above photo, I put stickers on most, stating what they are for. also on the transformers, because if they get disconnected, these transformers are often generic where you dont know what it was for! where several items have the same transformer, I put a timestamp also, eg 202506221550, just in case there is a slight modification.

I have a 24.5L Really Useful Box filled with accessories for the new PC, but it was filled to the brim, so I needed to overflow to other boxes, and not enough space to buy a further larger box!

the entire house is literally filled to the brim with stuff. And I am gradually junking stuff.

I bought a military grade shredder, where it shreds really finely, as a way to get rid of confidential junk. As I have a lot of paper stuff that can be junked, but has confidential info which could be used by scamsters, so I cannot just bin it, and too inconvenient to burn.

the problem of too much stuff forced me to think philosophically about all the stuff, eg I realised that even though some things are good, if I keep them they obstruct me getting even better things in the future, where its a conflict of the past and the future. So I junk things which arent good enough to obstruct the future!

I keep all the stuff from before approx 2005, as there wasnt too much. but with recent things, I will junk things without hesitating. eg if some new equipment is kaput, I will junk it immediately.

this is a problem of the current era, which in the UK is called "hoarding", and there are entire TV programs of people who have their house with each room filled to the ceiling with stuff! the verb to hoard in general just means to accumulate many of a specific item especially more than you are going to use, eg to hoard Nintendo consoles, but the word "hoarding" used in isolation has come to mean this specific problem in the UK.

on youtube if you look for "hoarders" it has some documentaries of specific cases of the problem!

with the ancient Orson Welles film "Citizen Kane", when the magnate dies, he leaves entire warehouses filled with all the stuff he bought over the decades!

I have some large items selected that I will get an auction house to value, which hopefully will free up a lot of space. They only auction "old fashioned" things, but which could be new eg mirrors. And generally the things need to be of good quality, eg quality furniture, antiques, toys, comics,

one problem with the Really Useful Box storage, is just that many fill up with miscellaneous things, where I have to sift through to be sure.

nowadays I virtually never buy anything, my main spending is just fuel, food, utilities (ie electricity, natural gas, phone, water),

sometimes I think I should just junk a load of useful things just to free up a nice amount of space!

really important things I keep in fixed places, eg credit card statements, bank statements, energy bills, credit and debit cards and loyalty cards.

problems emerge where I have too much of one genre of stuff to keep in one location, where it ends up in 2 locations, then 3 etc, and then its problematic to find. Also sometimes when I have maintenance work done, I have to hurriedly move stuff out of the way, and I forget where I moved the stuff to!

I have a notebook with about 55 pages used so far, each page with notes on different stuff, eg one page is info relating to my laptop, another is a list of items to get the auction house to value, with an index also, but the index is then about 55 items, so just the index has proliferated out of control! I literally need an index for the index!

but then I have maybe 5 other notebooks from different eras, filled with miscellaneous notes, 3 of these I indexed, so I can just check the index, but an index could be 100 items! An index for all the notebooks could easily be 500 items!
 
on a tangential matter, how much static risk for disk drives? eg magnetic sata ones such as WD Blue, where you can see some of the electronics, and eg some sata to USB adapters you can see some electronics, and then the SD cards. do you need to be careful with static, or are these safe from static?
HDD or any device where you see bare PCB is in high risk of static discharge damage.
So, do take care of those.

what is the weight of the above UPS?

the screen image appears to say 780Watts.
This is my UPS: CyberPower CP1300EPFCLCD, 1300VA/780W, line-interactive, true/pure sine wave,
specs: https://www.cyberpower.com/hk/en/product/sku/CP1300EPFCLCD#specification

It weighs 11.6 kg. So 600 grams more than the 1000W UPS you're looking at.

(I'm currently a bit busy, so, i replied to the most important questions. I can reply to other, less important ones at later time.)
 
I found I have a trolley from Lidl which will carry up to 150kg, and is narrower than the porter's trolley, and decided to go for the 1980Watt one. where the main work is to get it on the trolley, and off the trolley.

Have purchased one lead to the UPS and 2 from the UPS, and opted for a 3 year warranty where they may repair at home and covers accidental damage.

but the items wont arrive for some days, 27th to 30th for the UPS

the trolley has 4 wheels, where the front 2 rotate, so the wheels are like for a car. It is one of those strange Lidl products! I bought that probably more than 10 years ago and have only used it about once ever and was considering junking it as it is quite large and heavy! Now if this is a mistake, its a trickier one to sell as things above 20kg are tricky to find couriers for. The 11kg one would be easier to sell on ebay.

thus for the moment 2 different things underway, the UPS to arrive, and the PSU to be collected tomorrow.

HDD or any device where you see bare PCB is in high risk of static discharge damage.
So, do take care of those.

if I wrap them in kitchen roll for storage is that sufficient?

what do you think of these bags:

esd shielding bags

where you cant see the PCB, are those safe eg the USB3 drives such as Seagate One touch and the SSDs such as Samsung T7 and T9?


This is my UPS: CyberPower CP1300EPFCLCD, 1300VA/780W, line-interactive, true/pure sine wave,
specs: https://www.cyberpower.com/hk/en/product/sku/CP1300EPFCLCD#specification

It weighs 11.6 kg. So 600 grams more than the 1000W UPS you're looking at.

I thought it might be significantly lighter.


(I'm currently a bit busy, so, i replied to the most important questions. I can reply to other, less important ones at later time.)
 
if I wrap them in kitchen roll for storage is that sufficient?
Kitchen roll? What material is it? Aluminum foil? Some kind of paper?

what do you think of these bags:

esd shielding bags
These are good ones to store all kinds of hardware in them. HDD, GPU, CPU, RAM. But too small for MoBo.
I have my HDDs stored also in similar bags, one HDD per bag (since the bag is made to fit one 3. 5" HDD). While SSDs i have stored on their own.

where you cant see the PCB, are those safe eg the USB3 drives such as Seagate One touch and the SSDs such as Samsung T7 and T9?
Since the sensitive PCB is inside the casing, those can be stored as their own. But one possible contact would be the USB port itself (or SATA port pins). USB thumb drives usually have a cap to go over USB port, so that it isn't bare.

I thought it might be significantly lighter.
Well, by dimensions, it is essentially the same, where main diff would be the battery density used in it.

Gave a quick look and here's replacement battery for my UPS,
specs: https://www.cyberpower.com/eu/en/product/sku/rbp0124#specification

My battery pack weighs a bit less than the battery pack for 1000W UPS, 4.48kg vs 5.36kg. Meaning that the rest of the UPS weighs more (since i have an older model).
My 1300VA/780W UPS: 11.6kg - 4.48 kg = 7.12kg for my UPS without battery pack.
Your potential 1500VA/1000W UPS: 11kg - 5.36kg = 5.64kg for UPS without battery pack.

this is the warranty I opted in to, I can cancel and get a refund within 45 days:

UPS 3rd party warranty
👍

Not sure if you did read from UPS specs, but UPS and it's battery pack, both, have individual 2 year warranty. Also, CyberPower gives you connected equipment damage warranty as well, for up to €100000 in price and for 2 years. So, IF within the 2 years, UPS should damage any equipment it is connected to and is supposed to keep it safe, but fails to do so and kills something (e.g your PSU), then you can make a claim to CyberPower to get the damaged equipment replaced as well, that the UPS damaged/killed.

A neat thing. But common for UPSes.
But e.g for PSUs, their warranty policy doesn't cover any equipment the PSU may kill, when PSU goes belly up (MoBo, GPU, CPU etc).

the useful thing about Really Useful boxes is they are strong, where you can stack them to the ceiling, and the lowest one will withstand the weight, and they dont lean. see photo from 2022:
I too have 6-7 of those see-through, stackable, plastic crates in my home, for storing stuff. 14L volume. Great things to store stuff in them.

this is a problem of the current era, which in the UK is called "hoarding", and there are entire TV programs of people who have their house with each room filled to the ceiling with stuff! the verb to hoard in general just means to accumulate many of a specific item especially more than you are going to use, eg to hoard Nintendo consoles, but the word "hoarding" used in isolation has come to mean this specific problem in the UK.
Hoarding word is known all over the world and this can be problem in every country. Usually, the main excuse for a hoarder is: "you never know when you are going to need it". Hence why they are very reluctant to throw away their stuff. Since hoarders are usually older people, it also comes from the days of old, when there wasn't almost anything available. And now, with free market, everything is readily available and people can hoard stuff.

One of my relative was a hoarder and i saw 1st hand the life of a hoarder. It wasn't pretty.
I, myself, doesn't hoard. Every item i buy, must have practical purpose and also where i need it. I don't buy items that are nice to look at or based on impulse.

Sure, i have leftover stuff, e.g Corsair AF140L fans, that i got with my Corsair PC cases. But since those are very poor fans, i had to buy better fans to replace them out. And now, i have 6x 140mm fans sitting around. I did thought about selling them on 2nd hand market but since they are such poor fans, i decided not to sell them. They won't be good to cool any PC.
 
Kitchen roll? What material is it? Aluminum foil? Some kind of paper?
quilted paper eg for mopping up, but I also sometimes wrap food in it and have wrapped up things like SSDs!

the brand I use is this one: kitchen roll


These are good ones to store all kinds of hardware in them. HDD, GPU, CPU, RAM. But too small for MoBo.
I have my HDDs stored also in similar bags, one HDD per bag (since the bag is made to fit one 3. 5" HDD). While SSDs i have stored on their own.
I want some big enough for the hard drives, for the mobo I think there is one supplied with the mobo!

some of the hard drives in fact supplied such bags but I think I discarded them, the ones in the URL are resealable, so that is an advantage over the supplied ones with the hard drives.

that URL sells different sizes, but I would have to buy minimum of 100, so I want a size that deals with the largest items, and just fold the bags for smaller items, otherwise I would have to buy 200 etc bags!

the full range of the resealable ones at that site is this URL:

esd shielding bags

now the price per bag varies with the size from 23p to £1.54, so selecting a smaller size will save a lot of money.

but I will need some bigger ones, and 100 will be more than plenty for everything, thus its a question of getting the smallest size which will contain all my drives. The largest are the 3.5" USB enclosures of 3.5" sata magnetic drives.

100 of the largest size is £154.40, 100 of the smallest is £23.52

potentially one can sell the excess on ebay. I have sold specialised non computing bags at 4x what I paid for them! where I had to make an order of minimum £200 to get a very low price, but then I had 1000 bags where I only needed maybe 250. so just by selling 250 I got my money back! where the consignment was multiple boxes. The price I sold them for was significantly lower than what others were selling 250 for!


Since the sensitive PCB is inside the casing, those can be stored as their own. But one possible contact would be the USB port itself (or SATA port pins). USB thumb drives usually have a cap to go over USB port, so that it isn't bare.
is there a good source for buying those USB covers?

I have a few spare ones from purchasing very high quality items, but eg the extenders dont supply covers.

Well, by dimensions, it is essentially the same, where main diff would be the battery density used in it.

Gave a quick look and here's replacement battery for my UPS,
specs: https://www.cyberpower.com/eu/en/product/sku/rbp0124#specification

My battery pack weighs a bit less than the battery pack for 1000W UPS, 4.48kg vs 5.36kg. Meaning that the rest of the UPS weighs more (since i have an older model).
My 1300VA/780W UPS: 11.6kg - 4.48 kg = 7.12kg for my UPS without battery pack.
Your potential 1500VA/1000W UPS: 11kg - 5.36kg = 5.64kg for UPS without battery pack.

I was going to go for the 1000W, but when I found the Lidl trolley, and checked if it could navigate from the front door to where it will be used, it could do that, so I decided to risk the heavy weight. the trolley can handle up to 150kg, but the trolley itself is seriously heavy, this is why I was considering junking it as it takes up a lot of space, is very heavy, and has only been used approx once.

main argument for the 1980W is it would give me more than 1 hour. Now probably even 15 minutes is enough to shut everything down. But I would keep wondering if I should have bought one which could do 1 hour.

I can then run an extender cable to the TV and bluray recorder. currently there is a cable going a long distance from the opposite wall to the TV, so it needs a long cable either way.

thus if I connect that up as well, the price is similar to buying 2 x 1000Watts, and a lot of the time the TV and bluray wont be drawing power where I would get at least an hour. now if I am fast asleep and the alarm goes off, I wont be staying up an hour, 15 minutes is probably enough. But if the powercut is during the day, having some extra time could be useful. I presume it has a meter showing how much charge left?

the big problem is the weight, as it makes it tricky to sell on ebay, as I would have to sell it collection only, as couriers often wont go above 20kg as that risks the health of the driver eg if they are moving around 30kg several times a day. whereas 11kg is no problem to sell.


👍

Not sure if you did read from UPS specs, but UPS and it's battery pack, both, have individual 2 year warranty. Also, CyberPower gives you connected equipment damage warranty as well, for up to €100000 in price and for 2 years. So, IF within the 2 years, UPS should damage any equipment it is connected to and is supposed to keep it safe, but fails to do so and kills something (e.g your PSU), then you can make a claim to CyberPower to get the damaged equipment replaced as well, that the UPS damaged/killed.
it has the 2 year warranty, but do I have to post the item back in the box with all accessories?

because the 3rd party warranty covers at home repair, where I think I could just leave it as it is. With the PSU it is major delays and extra cost to post that, and if it is from accident they wont replace. the 3rd party one covers accidental damage.

I was thinking in terms of that such a warranty for the Seasonic could mean I wouldnt need to find all the cables etc.

now sometimes the house insurance can cover such things! depends if one opts in to such things.

A neat thing. But common for UPSes.
But e.g for PSUs, their warranty policy doesn't cover any equipment the PSU may kill, when PSU goes belly up (MoBo, GPU, CPU etc).

I too have 6-7 of those see-through, stackable, plastic crates in my home, for storing stuff. 14L volume. Great things to store stuff in them.
the Really Useful Boxes do a wide range of boxes, just one model per volume, so the volume determines which one, different things need different sizes, its the footprint which is important, more accurately the internal footprint, eg some are designed for A4.

the column in the photo is mainly 18L and 35L which have the same stacking footprint.

with heavier items eg screwdrivers, I use a 12L as 18L would be too heavy! the 12L wont stack conveniently with the 18L, but I have lots of 12L, eg I put all recent shopping receipts in one. so a column of 12L.

their 12L are useful for financial statements, and for energy bills, etc. with those I do have a label on the outside on 4 sides, that way whichever way they are placed I can see the label.

I sometimes use the ginormous 84L and 64L ones to improvise a workbench! where 2 columns of a few of those, and then a 60cm shelf plank over those, eg to varnish a door! Then I can sand and varnish by just walking round the door!

the 64L and 84L and some other sizes all have the same stacking footprint. There are essentially 3 footprints, the footprint for the contents, the stacking footprint which is also a shape, and then the floorspace footprint eg if you had 2 columns.

Now if I buy boxes by a different firm, they might not stack well with the Really Useful Boxes.

One thing you have to be careful with for the Really Useful Boxes is to not drop the lids as bits can break off, but otherwise they are really strong. And it isnt viable to buy spare lids, the price of a spare lid is similar to the price of a complete box, so one the lid is broken it is kind of junk. lidless boxes are of limited use, as the dust gets in the box, and they can only be put at the top of a column.


Hoarding word is known all over the world and this can be problem in every country. Usually, the main excuse for a hoarder is: "you never know when you are going to need it".

when I was a kid I used to read these stories about a boy called Bobbie Brewster, who used to keep things because they might come in useful one day, or he would keep things for a rainy day! I then started doing that myself!

there is a lot of philosophy involved with this, eg "you never know when you are going to need it" is an example of a philosophical idea, but a different philosophy is "buy things when you need them" and eg is it straightforward and not too expensive to rebuy this? because then if you junk all such things that you havent used for years, you free up so much space.

I bought a book by a japanese woman called Marie Kondo, called "the life-changing magic of tidying", she says if your place gets out of control, its because you have too much stuff, and there are only 3 things you can do:

1. give things away
2. sell things
3. junk things

sometimes you should just get rid of stuff as a "reset" so its a bit like being a kid again, where you have almost nothing. then you can freshly accumulate things.

what I say is you could in fact junk everything you have, the PC, the laptop, all your books, all your food, EVERYTHING, and it wouldnt matter! you can just buy another PC if you need it, and how many books can you read in one year, its just a few.

Hence why they are very reluctant to throw away their stuff. Since hoarders are usually older people, it also comes from the days of old, when there wasn't almost anything available. And now, with free market, everything is readily available and people can hoard stuff.

One of my relative was a hoarder and i saw 1st hand the life of a hoarder. It wasn't pretty.
I, myself, doesn't hoard. Every item i buy, must have practical purpose and also where i need it. I don't buy items that are nice to look at or based on impulse.
yes, you have to leave the interesting items in the shop!

as a kid no problem, as my mother didnt give me pocket money, and would refuse to buy me things that I wanted saying: you'll never use it, it will just get forgotten in a cupboard!


Sure, i have leftover stuff, e.g Corsair AF140L fans, that i got with my Corsair PC cases. But since those are very poor fans, i had to buy better fans to replace them out. And now, i have 6x 140mm fans sitting around. I did thought about selling them on 2nd hand market but since they are such poor fans, i decided not to sell them. They won't be good to cool any PC.

I junked the enthoo fans, as they are a load of junk! and it would be unfair to sell them to someone!

the day will come when you wont be able to keep such things! but as you avoid buying stuff, you might be able to keep things for longer than most people!

today I finally sold a consignment of 16 comic annuals, weighing almost 10kg!

they were listed for many months, getting maybe 30 views a month, but no sale. finally someone has bought them!

as a student, most years I had different accomodation, which would be just one room, for my bed, desk, some cupboards and shelves, and just from comics and magazines, I was already running out of space. In those days things were much more expensive, and as a student I didnt have the time to shop around too much.

 
quilted paper eg for mopping up, but I also sometimes wrap food in it and have wrapped up things like SSDs!

the brand I use is this one: kitchen roll
This kitchen roll is fully made out of cellulose and in regards of ESD, it is a bad idea.

Namely, cellulose and static discharge are related in that cellulose-based materials, like paper and certain tapes, can build up static electricity and are susceptible to static discharge. This discharge can be problematic in industries dealing with sensitive electronics, as it can damage components.
There are anti-static cellulose tapes out there, that are used to mitigate these issues by providing a path for static electricity to dissipate, preventing dangerous discharges.

Better to house all your hardware in the anti-ESD bags you linked earlier, rather than wrapping them into cellulose paper.

but I will need some bigger ones, and 100 will be more than plenty for everything, thus its a question of getting the smallest size which will contain all my drives. The largest are the 3.5" USB enclosures of 3.5" sata magnetic drives.
You need to figure it out on your own, on how big of an anti-ESD bags do you need.

is there a good source for buying those USB covers?

I have a few spare ones from purchasing very high quality items, but eg the extenders dont supply covers.
You mean these things?
Amazon UK: https://www.amazon.co.uk/USB-Cover-Port-Plug-Caps/dp/B0CLGYN8Y3?th=1

All of them come in small plastic box for easy storage and small dust brush is also included.
From the listing, you have a choice between three sets;
* male and female: micro USB, USB type-A, USB type-C.
* male and female: USB type-A, type-C; female: HDMI and headphone (looks to be for 3.5mm jack input hole).
* female: USB type-C.

Since those dust covers are made of silicone (form of rubber), they protect against ESD as well.

I presume it has a meter showing how much charge left?
Yes. You can see it from the UPS'es LCD display and also from the PowerPanel software.

the big problem is the weight, as it makes it tricky to sell on ebay, as I would have to sell it collection only, as couriers often wont go above 20kg as that risks the health of the driver eg if they are moving around 30kg several times a day. whereas 11kg is no problem to sell.
Well, if you're going to sell it at some point, take the heavy batteries out. This makes the 1980W UPS much lighter. Also, i doubt anyone would be buying your used (or already dead) batteries.

Since 1980W UPS weighs 25.5kg and it's battery pack weighs 10.75kg, UPS alone, without batteries in it, weighs only 14.75kg, which would be easy for you to sell.
And anyone who is going to buy the UPS without batteries, for them you can cite the replacement battery page, or they can go and buy 3rd party batteries to use with the UPS.

it has the 2 year warranty, but do I have to post the item back in the box with all accessories?
Yes. Since this is the standard in PC industry.
But you can always contact CyberPower and ask them how do they do things.

I've seen that APC UPS, bought via Amazon, for one, doesn't want batteries to be returned via Amazon, due to the fact that batteries classify under hazardous items. Now, i don't know if it was Amazon or APC, who said not to return batteries with UPS.

their 12L are useful for financial statements, and for energy bills, etc.
I keep my A4 documents in a binder and in the binder, i have plastic see-through covers where to put the papers in.

These things;

2-1-1-scaled.jpg

Direct link of image: https://neelgagan.com/cdn/shop/products/2-1-1-scaled.jpg?v=1668424747

All my paper recipients and invoices are stored there as well. So, when i need to make a warranty claim, i know where to look. I also have invoices ordered by date, older ones at the back, newer ones in the front.

Energy bills, internet bills etc, including online purchase items, all of them we get in digital form. Usually as *.pdf file. So, i can store them on my PC, without taking up physical space.

sometimes you should just get rid of stuff as a "reset" so its a bit like being a kid again, where you have almost nothing. then you can freshly accumulate things.
Sentimental value would be the one which is hardest to overcome. That, and most people feel safe/secure when they have lots of stuff. It may even be where subconsciously, everyone wants to have more stuff, since from the days of old, rich always had plenty of stuff and staff while poor didn't have almost anything. And everyone wants to feel wealthy and not poor.

the day will come when you wont be able to keep such things!
That, but moreover, physical possessions and material things do not transfer to the afterlife. So, there's no point to hoard stuff just to feel good. Better to have the stuff you need/use. And when you want to feel good, focus on non-physical aspects like: character, personality, love or spiritual attributes.
 
This kitchen roll is fully made out of cellulose and in regards of ESD, it is a bad idea.

ok, I'll stop doing that! will gradually migrate the items to ESD bags

Namely, cellulose and static discharge are related in that cellulose-based materials, like paper and certain tapes, can build up static electricity and are susceptible to static discharge. This discharge can be problematic in industries dealing with sensitive electronics, as it can damage components.
There are anti-static cellulose tapes out there, that are used to mitigate these issues by providing a path for static electricity to dissipate, preventing dangerous discharges.

Better to house all your hardware in the anti-ESD bags you linked earlier, rather than wrapping them into cellulose paper.


You need to figure it out on your own, on how big of an anti-ESD bags do you need.
that website allows one to request a free sample of each product, so just now I have requested one free sample of each size of the ESD grip seal bags, as its not always clear if the dimensions are internal or external, the diagrams show as external, but those diagrams arent always reliable. If it is external then it is anyone's guess what the internal dimensions are.

I wrapped a fabric tape measure around various drives and some are borderline, eg 20.4 girth, which would be 10.2 width, where they sell some which are 10.2 width, but if it is smaller by say 2mm that could be a problem.

one was 30.4 girth, which would be 15.2 width, where they have a 15.2 width one, but if that is the external width it wont work.

I have ordered samples from the firm before for other bags, and sometimes it is slightly different from the image, there is also manufacturing variance, where all are not precisely the same. But provided there are a few mm of leeway, then if its a bit smaller it will work.

eg if there was 5mm of leeway for the girth that will then probably work.


I can check also if 2 smaller drives will fit in a larger bag. numerically it would be 0mm leeway in some cases!

potentially I might buy 100 of one size, and 100 of another.

the prices will rapidly ratchet up with each selection, so I dont want to buy more than 2 sets of 100. By getting samples of different sizes I can make an optimal decision.

You mean these things?
Amazon UK: https://www.amazon.co.uk/USB-Cover-Port-Plug-Caps/dp/B0CLGYN8Y3?th=1

All of them come in small plastic box for easy storage and small dust brush is also included.
From the listing, you have a choice between three sets;
* male and female: micro USB, USB type-A, USB type-C.
* male and female: USB type-A, type-C; female: HDMI and headphone (looks to be for 3.5mm jack input hole).
* female: USB type-C.
ok, I have placed an order for 1 of each of those 2 choices, as the HDMI ones are also useful.

headphone and micro USB less useful, but I have a lot of USB A, so I can merge those from the 2 purchases!

Since those dust covers are made of silicone (form of rubber), they protect against ESD as well.


Yes. You can see it from the UPS'es LCD display and also from the PowerPanel software.


Well, if you're going to sell it at some point, take the heavy batteries out. This makes the 1980W UPS much lighter. Also, i doubt anyone would be buying your used (or already dead) batteries.
depends on the price, and availability.

eg I have some discontinued equipment, where they no longer manufacture the batteries, and they dont even manufacture cloned batteries. where the only option is second hand. so I bought 3 2nd hand ones from 3 different sellers on ebay. and all 3 were good initially, and some are still good. I think I made the mistake of running them down completely, as in the earlier era of metal hydride batteries, those had the memory effect where you needed to run down the batteries completely, otherwise they would remember where you reached and not go below that. but someone recently told me that with Li-ion batteries, it is bad to run them down completely, and better to recharge them when a moderate amount left eg recharge say by the time it reaches 20%. but with metal hydride that would be a bad idea.


Since 1980W UPS weighs 25.5kg and it's battery pack weighs 10.75kg, UPS alone, without batteries in it, weighs only 14.75kg, which would be easy for you to sell.
yes, I hadnt thought of that. so it is viable to resell it.


And anyone who is going to buy the UPS without batteries, for them you can cite the replacement battery page, or they can go and buy 3rd party batteries to use with the UPS.


Yes. Since this is the standard in PC industry.
But you can always contact CyberPower and ask them how do they do things.

this is where some 3rd party warranties are better, as with some you dont need to keep the boxes, maybe not even have to keep the receipt.

the UPS 3rd party warranty, they will repair it in your house, you dont even need to post it. it is some work arranging a bigger box with ballast to shield from knocks, and then the cost of posting it, and then the delays.


I've seen that APC UPS, bought via Amazon, for one, doesn't want batteries to be returned via Amazon, due to the fact that batteries classify under hazardous items. Now, i don't know if it was Amazon or APC, who said not to return batteries with UPS.
yes, I forgot that most couriers prohibit batteries, the firms who despatch batteries must have a special arrangement.

although I have bought some things including batteries, where they havent noticed.

and eg the Li-ion batteries I bought on ebay, they posted them ignoring the prohibited list!

I think its more that they have the right to refuse to transport the item if it is blatantly one of the prohibited ones or refuse the give the insurance on damage. some prohibited items I think are more to refuse the insurance.

writing this just now, the UPS has arrived! The courier placed it outside the front door, and I have managed to get it into the porch by rotating the box repeatedly, and once inside the hallway, I have been able to slide the cardboard box easily. I will leave it in the hallway till I have both cables, as there is nothing I can do with it till then. Better to do everything as one undivided action, than to unbox it now, and then potentially wait some days till the next step. Now maybe everything will arrive today!

I keep my A4 documents in a binder and in the binder, i have plastic see-through covers where to put the papers in.

These things;

2-1-1-scaled.jpg

Direct link of image: https://neelgagan.com/cdn/shop/products/2-1-1-scaled.jpg?v=1668424747

All my paper recipients and invoices are stored there as well. So, when i need to make a warranty claim, i know where to look. I also have invoices ordered by date, older ones at the back, newer ones in the front.
that is more organised!

what I do is either keep receipts in the original box, IF I keep the original box, or I throw them in a 12L Really Useful Box labelled "important receipts", where I have to search through the jumble of receipts. I keep all my receipts, but say the food shopping, refuelling, etc, those go in a different box. where I keep those partly for autobiographical reasons, that I can look at what I was buying say in 2006! where I bought totally different food from now!

From bitter experience receipts for expensive items need to be findable.

thus I have to search 2 places, either the original box or the really useful box with important receipts. where things get complicated is if I buy say 3 expensive items and they are on the same receipt! potentially a receipt might be in the box of a different product!


Energy bills, internet bills etc, including online purchase items, all of them we get in digital form. Usually as *.pdf file. So, i can store them on my PC, without taking up physical space.
we can opt for digital bills, and some firms only do digital, but I always opt for hard copy, as I generally dont look at digital bills. eg with one phone company, I never looked, and then one day I found they were charging me £70 per month as the base price!

with hard copy, I would have noticed that.

the other problem is in the UK you can change supplier of electricity, natural gas, phone, and when you change supplier, eventually your online bills can vanish. You have to download them all.

they dont email us our bills, they just email that our online bill is ready at their website, but I never look at these, as I always have too many other things to do.

one major problem with digital bills, is eventually these vanish. eg an insurance firm said items more than 2000, need to be listed with evidence of the price eg credit card statement. so with one item costing 3000, I went to my online credit card statements, but the item was bought approx 2013, and their online ones dont go that far back!

I checked just now, and my statements only go back to Nov 2015.

luckily I have kept my credit card statements all the way back to 1984 when I got my first credit card! and after trawling through at least 2 years of hard copy I found the payment!

with credit cards, I use the hard copy as a reminder that I havent paid yet, where once paid I then put them into storage. where I have 4 credit cards, where 2 are store cards, some stores give a credit card as they then keep the credit card surcharge. In the old days some stores would forward the surcharge to the customer, where it was more expensive to buy with credit card. then the government made this illegal, where things have to cost the same regardless whether you use credit cards or debit cards.

there are some online things where they can charge different amounts according to the means of payment, but not in the shops. And eg not at amazon or ebay, credit card and debit card are the identical amount.

Sentimental value would be the one which is hardest to overcome.
I keep everything from when I was a kid and in my 20s also. in fact I keep things up to about 2005. Although nowadays, if I dont like something from those earlier eras, and it is say kaput or of no use to me, I will consider junking it. I wont junk anything up to 2005 that I like, unless it is really huge and will never be used. eg I may dispose of my microvitec multisynch CRT monitor. It is huge and heavy, and I dont think I will ever use it again, as the VGA adapters mean I can use my Amiga 1200 on some flatscreen monitors. so far I havent junked it. I have also a Philips CRT monitor from approx 1988 for my Amiga 500 computer!

Now in my 20s I had to get rid of some things as a student, as I ran out of space. In fact I had to sell some really good textbooks when I ran out of money! where some of those I havent been able to find on amazon and ebay. where I wish I hadnt sold them!

but what I find is that say in the 1970s and 1980s, manufactured things were really nicely made, where they had real character. but in this era everything is functional and lacks character and you wont miss the item if discarded! the items today are so bland that many you wont even remember what it looks like.

eg the things were made with really high quality plastic, where it was really smooth, whereas todays items often are coarse plastic. And electronic items often had extra features unique to that item. eg the best Casio watch I ever had was from 1980, which had 5 alarms, where you could set day of week, or day of month and or month on each, or time only, and it had a countdown timer, and 0.01s timer. It lasted about 5 years on the original batteries. my current one just has 1 alarm, and no countdown.

in the 1970s and 1980s, when they designed a new product, they put a huge amount of effort into it, where they would sell that same product for years. But today, every 6 months they bring out new products, and there are so many different models of cars by each manufacturer that it isnt possible to keep track.

in the 1980s many people would know all models of cars on the roads. But eg my car from 2013 has many variants. and eg a Peugeot 307 and 308 can be nearly identical.


That, and most people feel safe/secure when they have lots of stuff.

it was like that when I was a kid, I had so little stuff, that I would keep everything, even the empty boxes of things! I still have a Nesquik chocolate powder plastic cannister, with a picture of a rabbit on it from the mid 1980s, and I found they still manufacture that identical product!

it might be this one, but I am not 100% sure as they do various similar ones:

nesquik

now that was a few years ago when I found the identical one. I rebought one for the box, I dont drink the drink, as I only use 100% cocoa.


It may even be where subconsciously, everyone wants to have more stuff, since from the days of old, rich always had plenty of stuff and staff while poor didn't have almost anything. And everyone wants to feel wealthy and not poor.
I think its if you have very few items, you really appreciate those items.

eg until I was 22 the only electronic items I had were my watch, 2 calculators, a radio from Tandy, and my hifi system. Each of which I used a lot. eg I used the radio as an alarm clock, where it would wake me up with a radio station! manufactured by "sangean". I did have an earlier digital alarm clock that I no longer used. In fact that digital alarm clock still functions today, when I probably bought it around 1986, ie almost 40 years later. And it has real character. but ones I bought in the last 20 years eventually stop functioning.

Now this means if you have few items, you really appreciate them, so you extrapolate this to mean that whatever you own you will really appreciate, so you hoard items.

but a point is reached when you have so much stuff, that it isnt viable to appreciate all!

in fact not viable to remember all. The mind only remembers specific items up to a limit, beyond that limit it works with a generic memory. eg if you go shopping in town, you just remember most people that you saw generically.

eg I easily have 10000 items of stuff! so much, that if I sift through a box, I find some things that I dont remember buying and no idea what the items are for! But most things are in Really Useful boxes, so it isnt heaps of junk, but neat boxes of junk!

when I was 12 we moved overseas, and I took with me a non scientific calculator, maybe 5 books, and that was about everything.

generally speaking kids who get given lots of toys, have no sentimental attachment to the toys. As each toy is soon replaced by another, and they cannot remember the earlier ones.

That, but moreover, physical possessions and material things do not transfer to the afterlife.

they might transfer indirectly! eg in your next life, things might appear which are like the ones in your previous life!

eg if you were a musician in this life, and enjoyed playing say the violin. in your next life, when you are 5 someone might gift you a violin!

So, there's no point to hoard stuff just to feel good. Better to have the stuff you need/use. And when you want to feel good, focus on non-physical aspects like: character, personality, love or spiritual attributes.

I think if you use something then its ok. the thing is there is a limit to how many things you can use. there are only so many useful hours in a day, and eg when I was backing up drives, literally that was all I would accomplish in a day. other than say shopping and meals.

in general it is easier to focus a lot of time on one activity, eg say backing up the drives. I can put all my time on that for days.

I sometimes revisit things to study from when I was a student, to kind of complete my education, not about the qualifications but to understand properly topics that I rushed through as a student, and I experimented and found that if I try to study 2 totally different things it isnt viable. eventually all the time is on one of the 2. and soon the other topic becomes a distant memory.

instead if I focus on just one topic, I can eventually make a lot of progress. And then later focus on a totally different topic.

with my favourite course in 1986, I decided to try and learn that really well, and it took me more than 6 months! and at the time we had to learn at least 6 such courses in a year. net effect is the only way to get a good grade was to learn superficially, rushing through all the material.


 
Well, if you're going to sell it at some point, take the heavy batteries out. This makes the 1980W UPS much lighter. Also, i doubt anyone would be buying your used (or already dead) batteries.

Since 1980W UPS weighs 25.5kg and it's battery pack weighs 10.75kg, UPS alone, without batteries in it, weighs only 14.75kg, which would be easy for you to sell.
And anyone who is going to buy the UPS without batteries, for them you can cite the replacement battery page, or they can go and buy 3rd party batteries to use with the UPS.

photo of the UPS box on the Lidl trolley:

UPS on Lidl trolley

the wheels on the right rotate, the ones on the left dont, so its like the wheels of a car, moving the UPS on the trolley is similar to using a supermarket trolley, it is straightforward.

the trolley itself is very heavy, and can carry 150kg.

But I need to wait till both other cables arrive before I can do anything. I will start initially with just the monitor and PC on it, and only add items after I have checked in the manual. I think first thing will be to study the manual, but I will wait till everything arrives then I can act immediately on everything.
 
I think its more that they have the right to refuse to transport the item if it is blatantly one of the prohibited ones or refuse the give the insurance on damage. some prohibited items I think are more to refuse the insurance.
I don't know for sure, but i guess that when couriers deliver hazardous materials (e.g brand new battery), then the route from warehouse to the customer is insured by the retail shop and/or manufacturer of the item. Whereby when something should happen, courier firm is covered. But when delivering the same item vice-versa, from customer to warehouse, then courier firm doesn't have the same insurance from customer. Hence they refuse to deliver hazardous materials.

writing this just now, the UPS has arrived!
👍

So, how heavy it was to lift it on the trolley? :)

Since cables take time to arrive, you can read UPS manual in the mean time.
 
I don't know for sure, but i guess that when couriers deliver hazardous materials (e.g brand new battery), then the route from warehouse to the customer is insured by the retail shop and/or manufacturer of the item. Whereby when something should happen, courier firm is covered. But when delivering the same item vice-versa, from customer to warehouse, then courier firm doesn't have the same insurance from customer. Hence they refuse to deliver hazardous materials.
its complicated, see this list for a courier comparison site, with that site, you give the parcel size and weight, then you can study the prices by different couriers, and choose one to use:

prohibited items

some are prohibited by just some couriers, also some of the things in the list you can buy online and are despatched, eg it says things made out of wood, what about pencils!

so some of the list are ridiculous. an experienced despatcher puts a lot of shielding so even if you throw the box around the contents are safe. what I do is put an item in an even bigger box, surrounded by shielding, eg bubble wrap, polystyrene, etc.

there was an amusing humourous card about courier firms:

courier firms

the guy at the warehouse will run into problems if he tries booting this UPS around the warehouse!

serves him right!

👍

So, how heavy it was to lift it on the trolley? :)
getting it on the trolley wasnt a problem as I rotated it onto the trolley.

the really problematic bit was to remove it from the box, where it had polystyrene that had to be removed also, and there was a risk of it damaging the cables beneath it, I dont know why they store cables under the item!

and I did open the box at the top. The courier seemed nonstandard, no livery on the van also I didnt know it was arriving today, what if I wasnt in and it was raining? its a bit unprofessional. they should ring the doorbell then if the customer is in, then fetch it from the van.

I decided to put some wooden boards under it, lifting the front, there is a recess making it easy to raise or lower it. but at the back of the item there is no recess, so there is a danger of it dropping with a thud! with heavy items they should make recesses or grip points so you can raise or lower an item without dropping it.

luckily I was able to lower it without a thud!

it is supplied with lots of cables, but none are what I need!

I dont know if any of those cables would work with either the Corsair PSU the RM1000X, or the Seasonic, or are their mains sockets proprietory?




Since cables take time to arrive, you can read UPS manual in the mean time.

possibly tomorrow