TZ reset fixed, didn't do much. Can a pin be THIS sensitiv..

[Nomad]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Have had major reset issues after installing clock mod and proxy board.
One flip of the flippers and it's a reset. Had done the driver board
mods and game was solid for months. After a ton of reading I decided to
try and disconnect the DMD and play. Didn't work, reset in a heartbeat.
Took another look in the backbox, reseated a few connectors, and
noticed the wires off of J104 were sort of laying on the heatsink of
the BR. They were slightly discolored from the heat. I moved them off
the heatsink. Don't know exactly what did it but now the game plays
fine so far, no resets through multiball, etc. I don't get it.

However, the clock is still whacko. It seems to "try" and work in
various modes and flashes as well but it doesn't work all the way. Are
there certain connectors that can be reseated that are clock specific?

I am now afraid to move the game 8 inches to work on it. I may as well
bolt it to the floor.

nomad

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

The additional heat on the wires causes additional resistance - which
could be enough to make it a reset candidate.

 

[JB]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

You might have wiggled loose some wires from the connectors under the clock.
This would affect clock operation but not the reset issue.

Those IDCs can look perfect but still have bad connections. You might try
rebuilding them with crimp-pins instead. That's what I did and it solved
all my intermittent clock troubles (and I did the same thing you did with
the PB Lizard boards).

Good luck,
-JB

"nomad" <damonoresky@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1125386019.549288.144610@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> Have had major reset issues after installing clock mod and proxy board.
> One flip of the flippers and it's a reset. Had done the driver board
> mods and game was solid for months. After a ton of reading I decided to
> try and disconnect the DMD and play. Didn't work, reset in a heartbeat.
> Took another look in the backbox, reseated a few connectors, and
> noticed the wires off of J104 were sort of laying on the heatsink of
> the BR. They were slightly discolored from the heat. I moved them off
> the heatsink. Don't know exactly what did it but now the game plays
> fine so far, no resets through multiball, etc. I don't get it.
>
> However, the clock is still whacko. It seems to "try" and work in
> various modes and flashes as well but it doesn't work all the way. Are
> there certain connectors that can be reseated that are clock specific?
>
> I am now afraid to move the game 8 inches to work on it. I may as well
> bolt it to the floor.
>
> nomad
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Maybe time for a break. You have a problem or two, you just have to sort it
out.

Any chance you can try a different clock in your TZ, or yours in a different
game ? Get one thing fixed at a time and start gaining ground and your
confidence will over come any fears fast. LTG

"nomad" <damonoresky@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1125386019.549288.144610@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

> However, the clock is still whacko. It seems to "try" and work in
> various modes and flashes as well but it doesn't work all the way. Are
> there certain connectors that can be reseated that are clock specific?
>
> I am now afraid to move the game 8 inches to work on it. I may as well
> bolt it to the floor.
>
> nomad
>

 

[martin]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

This sounds like two problems to me. You need to work them separately.

1) Clock - use the test menu. Make sure that the clock turns freely in
fast and slow modes. Watch to see that the optos are opening and
closing as they should. Troubleshoot from there.

2) On the reset, it sounds like your electrics might be a bit tired.
Bad IDC connections on the board; bad connections to the transformer;
bad traces on the board; bad BRs. Old capacitors. Could be any of
those. Given that it has been OK until you worked on it, I would
suspect the IDC connections. Do any of the connectors look particularly
burnt? If so, wiggle them and see if you can get a reset. If not, get
to wiggling anyway.

 

[Nomad]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

This clock thing bugs me. I was in the test mode yesterday and the
clock will go fwd and reverse, fast and slow but sometimes the hour
opto will be an hour off. For example the hands will read 10, 10:15,
etc and the display will say 11, 11:15 and then when the clock hands
hit 12 the display and hands will sync. I guess I could try cleaning
the optos on the hour board but the thing is brand new. The minute
hands move freely and pass thru all the optos fine. I followed the
instructions by setting the clock to 12 before I replaced the 2 boards
with the PinLiz ones.

Question: is there an "auto" test for the clock or do you just need to
manually run all 4 clock tests for it to "pass" the tests? I'm unclear
on this.

As far as the electronincs it's hard to say. My driver board has BR1
and BR2 replaced and the associated caps. Also added all the jumpers on
the back. It has worked great for months. The only connector that looks
slightly burnt is the GI and it's not bad at all (compared to the one
on my IJ). Only thing I can think of is something got slightly wiggled
when I pulled the batteries out to replace them.

nomad

 

[martin]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Sounds like your clock wheels may be misaligned. That could cause flaky
behavior. I would reassemble the clock, minute hole pointing
north-south and the alignment line pointing to the bottom left
screwhole (or wherever it is supposed to be).

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

For reset issues and solutions, be sure to read the guide on our site at:
www.actionpinball.com in the Technical Articles section. There are
literally dozens of things that can cause a reset and few that most people
ever consider to look at, so this might be helpful.

One common "clock problem" is with the wires in the IDC connectors that plug
in from the bottom- they can work loose from handling/vibration, which can
cause inoperability or intermittent problems. Whenever I service one of
these, I always press all of the wires in firmly in both connectors to make
sure they're seated well.

Ray J.
--
Action Pinball & Amusement, LLC
Salt Lake City, Utah USA
Web: www.actionpinball.com

We're serious about pinball. Anything else is just for fun!



"nomad" <damonoresky@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1125386019.549288.144610@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> Have had major reset issues after installing clock mod and proxy board.
> One flip of the flippers and it's a reset. Had done the driver board
> mods and game was solid for months. After a ton of reading I decided to
> try and disconnect the DMD and play. Didn't work, reset in a heartbeat.
> Took another look in the backbox, reseated a few connectors, and
> noticed the wires off of J104 were sort of laying on the heatsink of
> the BR. They were slightly discolored from the heat. I moved them off
> the heatsink. Don't know exactly what did it but now the game plays
> fine so far, no resets through multiball, etc. I don't get it.
>
> However, the clock is still whacko. It seems to "try" and work in
> various modes and flashes as well but it doesn't work all the way. Are
> there certain connectors that can be reseated that are clock specific?
>
> I am now afraid to move the game 8 inches to work on it. I may as well
> bolt it to the floor.
>
> nomad
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Even new parts ( especially bridge rectifiers ) can fail prematurely. And
don't rule out Q1 the voltage regulating transistor. I'd fix the clock
issues first, then if that is good and resets continue, then start on that.
LTG

"nomad" <damonoresky@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1125430609.326654.85110@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...

> As far as the electronincs it's hard to say. My driver board has BR1
> and BR2 replaced and the associated caps. Also added all the jumpers on
> the back. It has worked great for months. The only connector that looks
> slightly burnt is the GI and it's not bad at all (compared to the one
> on my IJ). Only thing I can think of is something got slightly wiggled
> when I pulled the batteries out to replace them.
>
> nomad
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Are you sure that the clock hands are not warped?
If those hands are a little off they will not close the opto resulting in
whacko behavior, while all the electronics are oke

When you remove the front plate you can check it with a carton or a
screwdriver to see if this will let the clock work oke.
--
Jelle Nelemans - The Netherlands
________________________________
Speak*Easy-4 (1982)
Crea*ture ft Bl*ack Lag*oon(1992)
BS Drac*ula(1993)
W*H2O(1993)
S.T:T.N.G.(1993)
Twi*light Zo*ne(1993)
Pin-site : http://home.wanadoo.nl/jellen/
________________________________


"nomad" <damonoresky@hotmail.com> schreef in bericht
news:1125386019.549288.144610@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> Have had major reset issues after installing clock mod and proxy board.
> One flip of the flippers and it's a reset. Had done the driver board
> mods and game was solid for months. After a ton of reading I decided to
> try and disconnect the DMD and play. Didn't work, reset in a heartbeat.
> Took another look in the backbox, reseated a few connectors, and
> noticed the wires off of J104 were sort of laying on the heatsink of
> the BR. They were slightly discolored from the heat. I moved them off
> the heatsink. Don't know exactly what did it but now the game plays
> fine so far, no resets through multiball, etc. I don't get it.
>
> However, the clock is still whacko. It seems to "try" and work in
> various modes and flashes as well but it doesn't work all the way. Are
> there certain connectors that can be reseated that are clock specific?
>
> I am now afraid to move the game 8 inches to work on it. I may as well
> bolt it to the floor.
>
> nomad
>