Upgrade to new rig and wondering about W10 install

[SkyBill40]

First and foremost, I appreciate any assistance provided. I'm plenty savvy but I'm unsure on this one.

I'm looking at replacing my well used and enjoyed AMD FX8350 with a newer Ryzen 7 2700X build. I'd like to go with a 500GB M.2 for my main OS drive and use my WD Caviar Black 1TB as my backup. As I'm "keeping it in the family" so to speak, I am hopeful that I can make this work without too much fuss.

I went down the W8 > 8.1 > 10 path on an OEM copy I installed. I'm wondering if I'll have to buy a fresh copy of W10, install it on the M.2, and then plug in my HDD. Will that work or will it cause an issue? Or, alternatively, will I have to buy a clean copy and install it, back up my HDD beforehand, and then scrub it clean? I'm not sure and can't afford to lose the data on the HDD. I know about the "reactivating Windows after a major hardware change" but wasn't sure this would work given I'm trying to install the OS on an entirely new drive.

Thanks again.

 

[jojesa]

Both options you presented appear to be the same: Fresh copy vs clean copy.
Any way you go about it, you might need a new activation key, since that was an OEM copy attached to your current hardware.
Sometimes, creating a Microsoft account before upgrading allows some to use to activate it on a new motherboard.

You could keep all programs and files just by moving your OS disk to the new motherboard. Then after everything is working, you could clone your old disk into then new disk (M.2).
Just make sure go to Device manager and uninstall all drivers related to your old motherboard before removing the OS disk from the old motherboard.

 

[SkyBill40]

I did create the account a long time back and have verified it as such through MS.

As for cloning, I didn't think that would be an option given the difference in capacities between the two. My primary partition for the C:\ at present is larger than the M.2 drive I'm considering purchasing (though I could get a larger SSD for probably cheaper though I'd lose out on the speed) so I don't know that cloning is an available option.

So, as I understand it, I'd need to go to the DM as you mentioned prior to installing in the new rig and remove all the current (old) drivers. I would then need to disconnect from the old rig, connect it to the new mobo, and finally install the new drivers to the HDD and all my other files would remain intact. Is that about accurate?

 

[jojesa]

I did create the account a long time back and have verified it as such through MS.

As for cloning, I didn't think that would be an option given the difference in capacities between the two. My primary partition for the C:\ at present is larger than the M.2 drive I'm considering purchasing (though I could get a larger SSD for probably cheaper though I'd lose out on the speed) so I don't know that cloning is an available option.

Most cloning apps will allow to clone a larger disk into a smaller one if the used space on the larger disk is smaller than the size of the smaller disk (e.g. A 1TB disk with 300GB used space can clone it into a 500GB disk).
Also you could create an image of your OS disk then copy the image into the new disk.
By the way don't go crazy trying to get the fastest disk, since you won't see a difference in real world between a 1800 MBps HP M.2 disk write speed and a Samsung 2500 MBps write speed...but there is a $90 difference. The computer will boot at the same speed, apps will open at the same speed, etc.

So, as I understand it, I'd need to go to the DM as you mentioned prior to installing in the new rig and remove all the current (old) drivers. I would then need to disconnect from the old rig, connect it to the new mobo, and finally install the new drivers to the HDD and all my other files would remain intact. Is that about accurate?

Yes, that is accurate, but you won't need to install new drivers, Windows 10 will take care of that.
Only install drivers if Windows is unable to find drivers for your hardware.

 

[SkyBill40]

This makes my thought process a little easier. Much appreciated. Now it's just a matter of making a firm decision on what to buy and when.

Last question: If I want my main drive (M.2, SSD, whatevs) be a singular drive with no partition, that shouldn't be a problem or would it be? Since I'm using 64 bit W10 and NTFS as the file format, after I move the files to the new primary drive I could then format the entire 1TB HDD and leave that as is, correct?

 

[USAFRet]

All new parts:
2 issues, Operation and Licensing.

1. For the Licensing...you almost certainly do NOT have to purchase another Win 10 license.
Read and do this before you change any parts:
https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/20530/windows-10-reactivating-after-hardware-change
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-3164428/windows-build-1607-activation.html

2. For the Operation
That level of change, a clean install is strongly recommended. ANyone who says "just plug it in, it always works", is simply blowing smoke.

There are 3 possible outcomes:
1. I just boots up. Off you go like nothing happened.
2. It fails completely.
3. It boots up, but you're chasing little issues for weeks.

And going to a whole new drive?
Clean install on that SSD.

 

[SkyBill40]

All new parts:
2 issues, Operation and Licensing.

1. For the Licensing...you almost certainly do NOT have to purchase another Win 10 license.
Read and do this before you change any parts:
https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/20530/windows-10-reactivating-after-hardware-change
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-3164428/windows-build-1607-activation.html

2. For the Operation
That level of change, a clean install is strongly recommended. ANyone who says "just plug it in, it always works", is simply blowing smoke.

There are 3 possible outcomes:
1. I just boots up. Off you go like nothing happened.
2. It fails completely.
3. It boots up, but you're chasing little issues for weeks.

And going to a whole new drive?
Clean install on that SSD.

As I mentioned previously, I've already verified I'm good to go on the licensing end of things. I saw your post or a portion of it elsewhere and went and checked to make sure I'm good. So, check that one off; however, I agree with you on the latter portion of operation. I assume the "clean install" portion would be pre move, yes? It's not going to wipe anything off the drive but only refresh the Windows itself. Is that correct?

As for the SSD, that's where I'm unsure. Seeing my C: on the HDD contains the OS, how can I get it over there without getting a new key? Will simply installing the blank SSD/M.2 and then logging in as per the activation stuff work? As an alternative, I am not opposed to buying a separate HDD for backup as I'm still keeping my rig and may simply re-purpose it as a HTPC. I'd just want to get all my games off it and such.

 

[jojesa]

All new parts:

1. For the Licensing...you almost certainly do NOT have to purchase another Win 10 license.
Read and do this before you change any parts:
https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/20530/windows-10-reactivating-after-hardware-change
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-3164428/windows-build-1607-activation.html

That was true in the past but as of six months of so, I have not been able to activate Windows 10 again after motherboard replacements automatically with OEM versions. Microsoft may have change something on the activation servers. That does not mean you cannot activate it, but you might need to contact Microsoft support after it fails to activate.

2. For the Operation
That level of change, a clean install is strongly recommended. ANyone who says "just plug it in, it always works", is simply blowing smoke.

There are 3 possible outcomes:
1. I just boots up. Off you go like nothing happened.
2. It fails completely.
3. It boots up, but you're chasing little issues for weeks.

And going to a whole new drive?
Clean install on that SSD.

I have moved a disk from a old motherboard to a new motherboard countless times and have not encounter any issues.
Beside the obvious, re-activate some software like Office, Adobe suite, etc.
Even my own PC in the signature below. I had a Gigabyte motherboard, DDR2 RAM with 2 gen Intel CPU and a AMD GPU.
As you can see I went with an AMD CPU on a ASRock, DDR4 mobo and a Nvidia GPU and I have not encounter any issues just yet.
By the way, if you happen to encounter any issues you still have the option of a clean installation. Just make sure to back up your files.
Furthermore, the 3 possible outcomes you described could happen even in a clean installation.
I would not give advice if I haven't tested myself several times.

 

[USAFRet]

That was true in the past but as of six months of so, I have not been able to activate Windows 10 again after motherboard replacements automatically with OEM versions. Microsoft may have change something on the activation servers. That does not mean you cannot activate it, but you might need to contact Microsoft support after it fails to activate.
.............................
I have moved a disk from a old motherboard to a new motherboard countless times and have not encounter any issues.
Beside the obvious, re-activate some software like Office, Adobe suite, etc.
Even my own PC in the signature below. I had a Gigabyte motherboard, DDR2 RAM with 2 gen Intel CPU and a AMD GPU.
As you can see I went with an AMD CPU on a ASRock, DDR4 mobo and a Nvidia GPU and I have not encounter any issues just yet.
By the way, if you happen to encounter any issues you still have the option of a clean installation. Just make sure to back up your files.
Furthermore, the 3 possible outcomes you described could happen even in a clean installation.
I would not give advice if I haven't tested myself several times.

I talked to a guy just 2 days ago who reactivated his WIN 10 during a hardware change.
Exactly in the links...it worked.

....................

Moving a drive to new hardware, I've seen it work, I've seen it fail.
It's worth a try, but be prepared for complete fail. It is absolutely not 100% guaranteed to 'just work'.

 

[jojesa]

.
I talked to a guy just 2 days ago who reactivated his WIN 10 during a hardware change.
Exactly in the links...it worked.

Did they have OEM or retail versions.
I have no issues reactivating retail versions.

Moving a drive to new hardware, I've seen it work, I've seen it fail.
It's worth a try, but be prepared for complete fail. It is absolutely not 100% guaranteed to 'just work'.

Nothing is 100% guaranteed to 'just work'...specially when dealing with Windows 10.
I had to return brand new laptops and desktops that have arrive with hardware and software issues straight from several manufacturers.
I just return a brand new Dell XPS 13. It goes to sleep and it won't wake up. I try everything I know and even reset the device to default to no avail ...so I gave up.

 

[USAFRet]

Did they have OEM or retail versions.
I have no issues reactivating retail versions.

It was something Upgraded from a previous Win 7.

Nothing is 100% guaranteed to 'just work'...specially when dealing with Windows 10.

From earlier...
"I have moved a disk from a old motherboard to a new motherboard countless times and have not encounter any issues."

And I've seen that exact thing fail, and I've seen it work.


IN any case, the OP needs to be prepared for it to fail completely, and do a clean install.

 

[jojesa]

And I've seen that exact thing fail, and I've seen it work.

IN any case, the OP needs to be prepared for it to fail completely, and do a clean install.

I have also had to fixed failed installations since there wasn't a good foundation from the start.
I wouldn't do if there were previous signs of drivers or disk issues or OS corruption. On those instances, I go with the good old clean install.
Many times, I deal with users that won't be able to reuse some software tittles after a clean installation.

I always prepare for the worst and hope for the best, and do hope others use common sense and do the same.