Hi, so I currently have a coolermaster ml240l AIO cooling my 9600k which is at stock clock speed with turbo boost on. I have a 240mm radiator with two bequiet silent wing 3 fans on it. I replaced the fans in an attempt to cool the system but it did not work. I am currently idling around the mid 40s (celsius) but it spiked to 100 degrees on multiple cores on boot and during some games. Even less demanding titles push it to 80 degrees fairly easily. I have a phanteks p400s case which has a closed front panel with two small cutouts at the top and bottom. Could this be an issue due to the case restricting airflow or have I set up the cpu fan curve wrong, connected the headers incorrectly(AIO cable is in PUMP_FAN1 and the fans on the rad are connected to CPU_FAN1)? Any advice on how to fix this and optimal fan curves for this sort of setup would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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Question Very high temperatures with coolermaster ml240l.
- Thread starter tom246
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- 9600k AIO cooler High temp
- Dec 30, 2016
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1)Is the AIO actually set in the case as front intake?
2)How old is the unit? The pumps do clog/break down over time.
3)Why would you switch fans? Depending on which model of the SW3 you installed, they could actually be WEAKER than the stock fans...
4)Phanteks P400S front panel is very restrictive. Positioning an AIO behind it only makes things worse. The more obstacles for air to travel through/go around, the weaker it is once it gets to it's destination... IF it gets to it's destination.
-narrow gaps in the front panel
-air has to turn because of the location of the gaps
-air has to pass through radiator
2)How old is the unit? The pumps do clog/break down over time.
3)Why would you switch fans? Depending on which model of the SW3 you installed, they could actually be WEAKER than the stock fans...
4)Phanteks P400S front panel is very restrictive. Positioning an AIO behind it only makes things worse. The more obstacles for air to travel through/go around, the weaker it is once it gets to it's destination... IF it gets to it's destination.
-narrow gaps in the front panel
-air has to turn because of the location of the gaps
-air has to pass through radiator
1)Is the AIO actually set in the case as front intake?
2)How old is the unit? The pumps do clog/break down over time.
3)Why would you switch fans? Depending on which model of the SW3 you installed, they could actually be WEAKER than the stock fans...
4)Phanteks P400S front panel is very restrictive. Positioning an AIO behind it only makes things worse. The more obstacles for air to travel through/go around, the weaker it is once it gets to it's destination... IF it gets to it's destination.
-narrow gaps in the front panel
-air has to turn because of the location of the gaps
-air has to pass through radiator
- The fans are correctly positioned.
- The unit is about 9 months old.
- I installed the SW3 high speed variant
- This may just be the issue.
- Dec 30, 2016
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The radiator shouldn't be cool to the touch - it should be somewhat warm, as well as some of the air being pushed through it.
The pump is running? You can actually hear it?
It sounds like your pump is either clogged, or air is trapped inside from cavitation.
The pump is running? You can actually hear it?
It sounds like your pump is either clogged, or air is trapped inside from cavitation.
Ok so, from day 1 it has always made a weird trickling, on and off crackling ish noise that I suspected to be trapped air but after some looking online apparently noises such as this are normal? I've tried tilting the PC from side to side to possibly move the air out but presuming its a closed system this shouldn't actually get rid of any trapped air. As I type this I can hear the trickling noise as if there is air trapped within the pump unit.
- Dec 30, 2016
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Ok, I had to quote a several lines from elsewhere because they are related to your issue:
"AIOs, when front mounted, have to be mounted with the tubes coming out the bottom of the RAD. The air collects at the top of the RAD, so if the tubes are at the top, the pump will suck in air."
"The pump is going to push any air bubbles out and into the rad. The flow through the pump/block is a lot faster than through the radiator, it is fast enough to push trapped air out. It might not do it instantly, but in my experience after a few minutes of running the air works its way out of the pump."
"Once enough air is in the system, the pump will start sucking in air out of the RAD if the hoses are at the top. You may not have had an issue because there wasn't enough air in the system yet."
"You should take it out of the case and run it with the end of the rad without the hoses is held high - best to use a small $15 12v brick type power converter and leave system off. Disconnecting a hose voids the warranty and resealing can often be difficult."
"AIOs, when front mounted, have to be mounted with the tubes coming out the bottom of the RAD. The air collects at the top of the RAD, so if the tubes are at the top, the pump will suck in air."
"The pump is going to push any air bubbles out and into the rad. The flow through the pump/block is a lot faster than through the radiator, it is fast enough to push trapped air out. It might not do it instantly, but in my experience after a few minutes of running the air works its way out of the pump."
"Once enough air is in the system, the pump will start sucking in air out of the RAD if the hoses are at the top. You may not have had an issue because there wasn't enough air in the system yet."
"You should take it out of the case and run it with the end of the rad without the hoses is held high - best to use a small $15 12v brick type power converter and leave system off. Disconnecting a hose voids the warranty and resealing can often be difficult."
- Dec 26, 2012
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Ok. I've run top tube mounted aios, my 6 year old nzxt Kraken was top tube mounted on front. So from experience I'll say this. Side to side is ineffective to remove air.
What you do is with the pc running, very slowly pick up the front of the case, letting it rest on the back low corner. Continue an even tilt until the pump is fully below the level of the bottom of the rad, and hold that for a few minutes. Me, I rest the back top corner on a stack of books, too lazy to hold the case, just shy of hitting the table with the wiring. With variable speed pumps like the Krakens, a 50%+ load is good.
Once the gurgling stops, you can slowly lower the pc to its normal position. If you can mount the pump with the tubing facing upwards, that's a better option, allows any possible trapped air to rise in the tubing, having tubing facing lower can make the pump act like a secondary reservoir for air.
What you do is with the pc running, very slowly pick up the front of the case, letting it rest on the back low corner. Continue an even tilt until the pump is fully below the level of the bottom of the rad, and hold that for a few minutes. Me, I rest the back top corner on a stack of books, too lazy to hold the case, just shy of hitting the table with the wiring. With variable speed pumps like the Krakens, a 50%+ load is good.
Once the gurgling stops, you can slowly lower the pc to its normal position. If you can mount the pump with the tubing facing upwards, that's a better option, allows any possible trapped air to rise in the tubing, having tubing facing lower can make the pump act like a secondary reservoir for air.
- Dec 30, 2016
- 21,535
- 5,718
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@Karadjgne
So, mount the pump with the tubing above it... does it matter if the tubing runs top or bottom at the rad?
So, mount the pump with the tubing above it... does it matter if the tubing runs top or bottom at the rad?
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