Wall-Sized 3D Displays: The Ultimate Gaming Room

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My question is will this CRT with a refresh rate of 60 Hz give me the same strobing effect that the article mentions a 60 Hz DLP projector will do ??
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Yes. ideally you need a monitor/project that is capable of providing 120hz refresh rate at your desired resolution. A projectors "native" resolution must be the resolution you use for stereo.
John
 
I am thinking about buying the optoma HD70 beamer.
Will it work with the eDimension glasses ?
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We tested the Optoma HD72i - a 'similar' projector. It would work at 60Hz 3D, but not 85Hz 3D. i.e. flicker city.

The HD70 could be completely different - but is unlikely to be able to do 85Hz 3D since in the 45 projectors that we tested, none over XGA resolution would do anything higher than 60Hz 3D.

Thank you for the List of Projectors, I was hoping you had Tested some of the infocus IN32/34/36 Projectors as they have a shorter throw lens for folks like me with a small room... Any Chance you will be testing anything else in the future?
 
Doon1, your saying I will get the strobing effect with my 60 Hz CRT right ?

Why 120 Hz ? That seems expensive. The article states 75 - 85 Hz is okay.

120 Hz must be for extra extremely FPS right ?
 
Just to be perfectly clear, 2 DLP with polarizing filters and a silver screen, plus the polarizing glasses is the same price as the way this article describes, possibly a few $xxx cheaper as you are using simpler technology and can source it anywhere (aka bone-standard DLP and the same old paper glasses from forever) Da-Lite has been making silver screens for I don't know how long (how long has there been slide projection or home movies?), like I link to the screens are plenty cheap $160 with shipping New from the factory.

We aren't talking about rocket science here, new DLP's are $500 and they don't have to be shutter sync'ed, plus you get 2 projectors, so even if you aren't doing the 3D you can have 2 screens going.

Any 3D worth having is the nVidia driver, and the nVidia driver loves the dual-output stereo with some polarization.

Not to mention there is no flickering and 100 people could watch for $40 worth of polarized glasses.

I would appreciate it if the author of this article tries again with $500 DLP's and polarization.

I hear people saying that "shutter is more compatible" I don't see why, the driver either works or it doesn't, I have had no problems, if one way works (shutter/anaglyph) they will all work (polarized/Dual/HMD etc)
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Please forgive me if this has already been covered,

How hard is it to line up two DLP Projectors for a projection setup?

Do you have a how-to with pictures, similar to how Tom's Article is put together?
 
anthonybuchanan said:
120 Hz must be for extra extremely FPS right ?[/quote

At 85 Hz on a CRT, it's pretty good, just like the DLP screen in the article.

At 120 Hz I'd imagine the glasses strobe so quickly that it must look perfectly smooth, but this doesn't have much to do with FPS - just eliminating the strobing effect you'd see.
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The higher the refresh rate the smoother the view. You're effectively cutting the refresh rate in half when in stereo. It's said the human eye can see a distinct "stutter" at any rate below 30FPS. Many can see this at even higher rates. So a monitor with a refresh rate of 60hz is a frequency of 30hz per eye. I can see this very clearly. At 85hz your getting 42.5hz per eye. While this is much better it is still noticable. This is one of the main reasons people started going with dual projector setups. Then you had to keep your head in a vertical orientation (no leaning into turns). This was then overcome with hemispherical filters on the projector lenses. Of course a higher quality, more emmersive stereo experience comes with a price tag. for $30k you can have a high resolution head-mount display with head-tracking. Emagine has a 800x600 visor with head-tracking that when it came out cost $900. then they dropped the price to $600. currently the price is $1500, go figure.
My suggestion would be that if you have a Nvidia card and a CRT monitor go ahead and buy the I-art glasses and try them out. This will give you a good idea if stereoscopic gaming is for you. The reason I recommend the i-art setup is because it comes with two sets of glasses and there is no need for an inverter as it's built into the glasses. It's also a GREAT idea to invest in a rechargable batter unit as these things love to suck the life out of a pair of AAA in no time.
John
 
It's probably also due to the strobing effect. The glasses are creating a pitch black frame between each frame that you do see.

In regular video... even 24 frame-per-second film - there is no black frame inserted between frames for any appreciable length of time. So this is probably the main reason why higher refresh rates look alot better when you use shutter glasses.
 
Great article, and quite a bit of useful information in the comments here already.

I'm wondering if this will work with a DLP projection HDTV. I have a 50" Samsung rear projection DLP, which isn't quite projector size but still much larger than my monitor. It seems like it should work... Anyone know for sure, before I go buy a bunch of new hardware?

//edit- I'm refering to using the PC input on the TV, which will run at 1024x768. I can't find the set's refresh rate in the online specs
 
Just to be perfectly clear, 2 DLP with polarizing filters and a silver screen, plus the polarizing glasses is the same price as the way this article describes, possibly a few $xxx cheaper as you are using simpler technology and can source it anywhere
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I can't see it being cheaper as we bought the cheapest 1024x768 projector we could find for the article, and you're automatically doubling that expense...

But I'll look into it. So, two projectors, two polarizing filters, polarized glasses. Do you need anything special to hook the buggers up? How do you get the two separate signals to the projectors?
Are you guys saying that the Nvidia drivers can be set up to do it automatically through the two video card outputs?Yes, when you choose the 3D mode you get a drop-down with 10 options to set up the type of stereo.

I just came back from checking DLP prices, you are right, they are still expensive, I used 2 Lumenlab Evo LCD projectors $500 apiece, $30 replacement bulb (6,000 hour life). I do know of cheap DLP projectors, the AVS forums is probably a good place for info on the best DLP's. If you see some on sale for $450-$500 then you will know what to do with them.

The benefit to the dual method is the scalability, if you want 10 people to view the effect the cost is $6 more with the dual method. For a single person the shutter method is cheaper, IF there is a 140hz DLP out there that will not trigger the flicker issues, and IF you buy a pair of shutter glasses specifically designed for projection, if not the off state is too dark and image will not look good.

Look at the added cost of two projectors Vs. the price of several pairs of shutter glasses and associated wiring or batteries to let everyone watch.

If you set out to do the polarized it can save you trouble as a silver screen will be purchased and you will not have to purchase one later, you can still use the silver screen in any way possible, just it also functions with the polarized light.

On the subject of 2 LCD monitors, you can't tell me that it isn't cheaper and higher-resolution. 2 17" 1280x1024 screens on eBay will only set you back $250 or less in good working condition (I bought 3 broken ones for $180 total and will be repairing them into 2 working ones, cheaper if you have the skill), the mirror is only $40. Since likely you are running an LCD monitor anyway, just get a second and the half-mirror, the cost is much less that way as you have about 1/3 of the setup already sitting on your desk and you don't need to buy it.

Please go look at the links above, I posted some DIY dual Projection and LCD monitor setups.

Doon1: I have never heard of a registry hack, nor have I used one to enable this method of 3D, look in your nVidia control panel under the 3D settings and choose the appropriate method from the 10 or so that drop down.

NO Strobing: I will not use the shutter glasses. I get a distinct headache that pulses (migraine) when I view even 15" monitors at 60hz, how does making it 42.5 hz help anyone?

Yes you will see a strobe effect, pray you aren't epileptic.
 
I see where the projectors have to be mounted one-on-top-of-the-other, but i am a bit confused.

In several examples it looks like you must have 2 screens side-by-side to get the effect.. Is this in-correct? Does the two projectors "overlay" the same image on each other?

If So,

I take it you have the two projectors mounted together and a Polarizing screen over each lens.

You project on to 1, Silver screen.

You install the nVidia Driver and have projector 1 on output one of your video card and projector 2 on output 2 of your video card.

Everyone simply wears Polarized glasses and they can view images in 3D up to 60 degrees or so?

When in 3D Mode, you get 60-85hz PER Eye? (Meaning flicker free)

Am in Correct?
 
NO Strobing: I will not use the shutter glasses. I get a distinct headache that pulses (migraine) when I view even 15" monitors at 60hz, how does making it 42.5 hz help anyone?

Yes you will see a strobe effect, pray you aren't epileptic.
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I am currently using 3 19" CRT monitor all running at 60hz and I am not bothered in the slightest by flickering and I use these 8 hours a day @ work, 5 days a week.
 
gm0n3y, consider yourself lucky about not having problems at 60Hz. I have to have monitors set to at least 85Hz to avoid headaches and even then I still notice the flicker. For me flicker doesn't alleviate until about 100Hz :?
SQ40, it sounds like everything you posted after "If So," is correct. I have seen this kind of rig in operation before and it is marvelous when done right. The only real things I recall that you have to pay close attention to are stable mounting and proper keystoning. Both concerns should be one-shot issues at initial setup - after that, good to go!
 
I am very confused.

The 3D article has changed everything for me. I am definitely going 3D.

I cannot see though how in this forum people aspire to have an 8800 that can run up to $700 or more however the list of 3D projectors only lists sub $1000 projectors with 1024 and less resolution.

It seems if you have the 8800 and you are going 3D and also, 3D with a projector, then then you should invest in a more expensive projector that at least does 1080p.
 
Id like to know, on a scale of 1 to 10, 10 being perfect. From this current setup (the article) how good are movies?

This might sounds dumb but can we use those glasses for a movie?

Thanks
:)
 
I'm wondering if this will work with a DLP projection HDTV. I have a 50" Samsung rear projection DLP, which isn't quite projector size but still much larger than my monitor. It seems like it should work... Anyone know for sure, before I go buy a bunch of new hardware?
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Good question! I am looking at the Samsung HL-T6189S DLP rear projection TV and would like to know if it would be compatible with the 3D shuttered glasses technique? This TV uses LED's rather than a color wheel (ie: no rainbow effect), has a 61" screen, a resolution of 1920 x 1080, a screen refresh of 120Hz, a VGA PC input, and it is very bright. Sounds like the perfect 3D display to me!

Has anyone tried this with a rear projection display?
 
I see where the projectors have to be mounted one-on-top-of-the-other, but i am a bit confused.

In several examples it looks like you must have 2 screens side-by-side to get the effect.. Is this in-correct? Does the two projectors "overlay" the same image on each other?

If So,

I take it you have the two projectors mounted together and a Polarizing screen over each lens.

You project on to 1, Silver screen.

You install the nVidia Driver and have projector 1 on output one of your video card and projector 2 on output 2 of your video card.

Everyone simply wears Polarized glasses and they can view images in 3D up to 60 degrees or so?

When in 3D Mode, you get 60-85hz PER Eye? (Meaning flicker free)

Am in Correct?
Click to expand...
LCD's DO NOT flicker, they have a slower die-off of the pixel brightness and the refresh rate being lower does not have any effect on the flickering, I am comfortable with refreshes of 60hz on LCD technology, since it is a digital display technology there is no scanline at all.

The shutter glasses are what are adding to the flickering effect.

It is not hard to "line up" the projectors, since each eye sees only one image they only need to be close to aligned, preferably with the pictures vertically aligned the most, as the 3D driver will be diverging most of the picture horizontally anyway.

Have you checked out the links above to Barry Aldous web-site?
 
Hi everybody! I have a PLV Z4 (LCD) projector & using HDMI, 7800GT. What setup would be the best considering it's an LCD projector? What's the ~cost?
TIA
 
Id like to know, on a scale of 1 to 10, 10 being perfect. From this current setup (the article) how good are movies?
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If you can control the ambient light... I'd give it a 9. It's really very good, much better than I'd have thought.


This might sounds dumb but can we use those glasses for a movie?
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Certain movies I think you might. But they have to be specially made.
 
I now this sounds silly, but there is a thing called Google.

Some choice words to type in might include 3D movies, shutter glasses.

Forums of the hardware manufacturers, perhaps any one of the numerous guides written on the subject of Stereoscopic 3D viewing/photography and projection.

Ugh, I should just leave.
 
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