Grizely1

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Ok, I got my Duron 750 today and closed L1s, and hooked it up and everything. installation went smooth with the waterblock, everthing is cool. I started it up, played some NFS-5 for awhile, then went to check and it was 30c! This is with the water flowing quite slowly (the valve is turned less than a CM). So I went back into BIOS and change the multiplier to 8.5x instead of 7.5x. played some more NSF5, then checked temp it was 32c!!! sweetness.... so if i just turn up the water a little bit more it will go cooler. i am just worried that the outside of the waterblock will sweat alot (it's very cold and kind of damp). Oh well. I might coat it in that rubber stuff. :smile:

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"648kb is all the space anyone will ever need!"

Bill Gates, 1980s
 
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See how far the duron can go with cooling like that. Keep going 'till you reach around 50c
 

ejsmith2

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I'd get really froggy with a tube of silicone on that socket if I were you. It takes just a little of that 'pure' condensate, mixed with some household dust, to start conducting electricity. If you put a fan blowing on the silicone, it'll form a 'skin' in about 2 hours. You could start using the computer then, or let it dry overnight.
 
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I dont realy read the posts. Buffy's hot for an american.

Whats all this about square pegs and round holes?
 
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he's saying put some silicon over the waterblock, then stick a fan blowing on it, that way you can start using your computer as soon as possible :) other than that it is greek

Old addage: "Users never prosper" :eek:) Long live the tweakers
 
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30-35C LOAD, that odd,for WATERCOOL, is that usual.

my air cool TB750@900 will do high 30 LOAD. <--WARM room temp. and MY TB1.2@1350 aircool, OPEN room window will do mid 30C.

I thought water cool could get you to like 10-20C LOAD. is it a pain instaling the watercool system, i have no idea how it works, does it buzZZZzzz like a fish tank water pump thing?
 

Grizely1

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i doubt your air cooled system is at that, your readings are probably not very accurate.

after 5 hours or so of NFS5, the temperature is 32C, and that's at 918MHz (from 750.) Pretty damed good (and i have the water barely flowing!!!!)

I am so excited

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"648kb is all the space anyone will ever need!"

Bill Gates, 1980s
 
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I'm DEAD serious, 750@900 system

ABIT KT7-RAID, TB750@900, HSF Hedgehog/ delta, Articsilver

after about 3hrs of Counter-strike, the MBM5 temp is about 38C that in a CLOSE case, CASE open and LOAD temp is reading at 34C and room temperature about MID-HIGH 70F. say the MBM reading is off, ok +/_ 3C. lastime when this computer was in my room w/ case OFF, and window open it was doing 31C was HIGHEST i ever saw.


ABIT KT7a, TB1.2@1.35, Taisol/YS-tech, Articsilver

WHOLE different story with THE 1.2@1.35 ONLY with roomWindow open i'm able to achieve stablility @ 1.35Ghz. TEMP hehehehe, IDLE 28C <--NICE, LOAD 37C. these reading are of MBM5 on W2k. room window close, LOAD shoot up to MID 40C, my room is very stuffy and get really HOT. it get so hot that i itch sometime.

what i mean by LOAD is, AFTER several HOURS of either CS or stablility TEST. which take the CPU load to 100% as reported by W2k.
 
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God i'm gonna sound like such a newbie... but i am just getting into water cooling... What exactly is a peltier and what does it do? One of my friends is getting it and i keep forgetting to research it..

That sound really promising Griz, keep up the good work, i wonder what the physical limitation of a Duron 750 is... Coz i have to get a new CPU and i am tossing up between getting a slow ath or a fast duron for under $200(aus) or getting a fast Tbird for just under 500... Not sure yet...

Any suggestions btw? (not going to be water cooling for a while yet tho)

<b><font color=blue>Note to self: Never buy <i>anything</i> without checking with <font color=red>Tom</font color=red> first...
 

HolyGrenade

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Its basically a square flat metal sheet (well, actually a bit more than that!). When connected to some power point, one of its side gets really hot while the other gets really cold (can go below freezing). Its not very efficient - takes a lot of power, and can be kinda dangerous.


<i><b><font color=red>"2 is not equal to 3, not even for large values of 2"</font color=red></b></i>
 
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I thought you already had a Athlon 1.2G with DDR of that sort?

By the way my duron 650 @ 900 only 39C windows open fully loaded. room temp around 19C

Best regards
cx5
 
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You should make a search for it key word e.g. is Sen Fu

Alot of people are getting -20C -10C etc ,thats a fully working peltier, it is a semiconductor, not metal

invented by a guy called Peltier back 50's bla bla bla, search RS Catalogue, haha! it tells you everything.

I've used one before, but the peltier was defective and only got me 18C without heat load of CPU.

Anyway, inside the peltier are many diodes - i.e. semiconductors connected in parallel.

Thats why after some fail you can still use.... as long as one is still working, but you never get full potential, I'm sure you'll understand

Best regards
cx5
 

steinbr

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Just a small piece of ceramic with about 150 semicondutors connected in series.
More info on www.melcor.com , click on TEC.
 

HolyGrenade

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I think my one had aluminium covers on both sides, thats why I said metal. As for the inner workings, I never felt curious, 'cos I wasn't too impressed with it.


<i><b><font color=red>"2 is not equal to 3, not even for large values of 2"</font color=red></b></i>
 

Grizely1

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Dec 31, 2007
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No, I had a 1GHZ Tbird @ 1.2GHz, but on my first attemp at watercooling it wasn't tightened down enough so the core wasn't fully touching the waterblock (my clip sucks) so it fried. I am currently testing my watercooler on the Duron 750 and when i've worked out the bugs I will probably to back to a 1.1GHZ or maybe 1.2GHz tbird.

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"648kb is all the space anyone will ever need!"

Bill Gates, 1980s
 
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Sorry to hear about that, wish it won't happen to you again.

I also fired a duron 650 before, but sort of intentionally!!! hehe, and the shop keeper after 30 minutes of honest chit chating said "OK, heres a new one, don't screw up again"

I was so glad! don't think I will be that lucky again.

Best regards
cx5
 
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thanks for that guys, helpful...

I think i'll stick with my air cooling for a while still though...

<b><font color=blue>Note to self: Never buy <i>anything</i> without checking with <font color=red>Tom</font color=red> first...
 
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Grizly I really think theres something wrong with your Peltier and that the water passing through is not enough! or either ONE only is not right! Anyway you know what to do.

Try to beat this and I'll call your Water Cooling PROPER!!!

Athlon 1000Mhz O/C to 1333Mhz using 133FSB, without increasing CPU voltage on a regular Global Win fan, 4000rpm and only 37C room temp 15C, windoes open.

Best regards
cx5
 

Grizely1

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There is no peltier! The waterblock is cooling the chip, not a peltier cooling the chip with the waterblock cooling the peltier. I will increase the water when it heats up to 33C.

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"648kb is all the space anyone will ever need!"

Bill Gates, 1980s
 

Grizely1

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Dec 31, 2007
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That's ok i already have a 2nd PS for fans and stuff.

(It's now at 1020MHz at 32C full load).

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"648kb is all the space anyone will ever need!"

Bill Gates, 1980s
 

Grizely1

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Dec 31, 2007
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dowloaded in 1.5 seconds!!!! :smile: (just trying to make you feel bad hehehehehe j/k)

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"648kb is all the space anyone will ever need!"

Bill Gates, 1980s