Question What is the maximum power you can put through a 8 pin dc input connector?

[reaper89971]

I am really confused on how i am suppost to power this power supply HDPLEX DC-ATX 500. I planned on using a Mean Well LOP-500-27 but i don't think the power/input connector can handle it.

I asked this question once already but was told that there is a 150watt max on a 8 pin connector. If that is true how am i suppost to give the power supply 500 watts.

Or is the 150 watt max not the case? The power supply comes with a barrel connector that is 8 pin.

Wouldn't i be limited to whatever the 8 pin connector can take.

 

[Eximo]

That 8-pin is more akin to an EPS connector, since it has 4 12-V conductors. EPS is rated for 336W. (They recommend a 330W adapter, so perhaps that is the real limit)

However, that isn't a PCIe or EPS connector, just uses the same physical plug. They could have used any wire size in that cable. The pins are rated for 13 amps each. So up to 624 watts across 4 of them. At 12 volts, Mini Fit Jr is rated for up to 600V).Though normally you don't ride the ragged edge. 80% would be almost exactly 500W at 12V, which is typical when designing circuits.

How much power do you intend to draw at the other end?

 

[reaper89971]

That 8-pin is more akin to an EPS connector, since it has 4 12-V conductors. EPS is rated for 336W. (They recommend a 330W adapter, so perhaps that is the real limit)

However, that isn't a PCIe or EPS connector, just uses the same physical plug. They could have used any wire size in that cable. The pins are rated for 13 amps each. So up to 624 watts across 4 of them. Though normally you don't ride the ragged edge. 80% would be almost exactly 500W, which is typical when designing circuits.

How much power do you intend to draw at the other end?

Not sure how much power i will use maybe 400 watts

Will my mean well LOP-500-27 blow the HDPLEX up It starts at 320 watts then goes up to 499.5

 

[reaper89971]

I could wire heavy gauge wire to it. What gauge wire would i need for 27v 18.50 amps

 

[reaper89971]

The more and more i think about it seems like a fake device in a way. It says 12-48v but it has a 8 pin connector with regular wires like you would see on a atx

 

[Eximo]

Not sure how much power i will use maybe 400 watts

Will my mean well LOP-500-27 blow the HDPLEX up It starts at 320 watts then goes up to 499.5

It doesn't start up at 320W. 320W max output without active cooling, 500W max output with active cooling.

Since your input is 12-48V, it should work at 27V, but I agree with some of the other posts in your other thread. I wouldn't necessarily use the included cable. If you check the wire gauge, maybe, but either getting a mini-fit jr plug and pins of your own to build a custom cable, or soldering direct to the board if you are careful enough. Just need 27V+ rated wire, which is pretty much all wire of sufficient size to handle that amount of current/power.

 

[USAFRet]

A smart person would have gotten a device built for purpose.

Instead of trying to adapt some janky chinesium doodad, with minimal electronics skills.

 

[Eximo]

The more and more i think about it seems like a fake device in a way. It says 12-48v but it has a 8 pin connector with regular wires like you would see on a atx

Mini Fit Jr is just a standard, readily available connector. I've seen it used for 48V before. Lots of motor controllers use that style connector.

When you are looking at power cables, you just need to look at every piece in the system. The connector's shielding is good for 600V, mean you won't get arcs between the pins inside the connector. The mating surface of the pins is rated for 13 amps. Theoretically you could do a 600V and 13 amps, that would melt any wire you could use, but it won't arc. 27 volts at 13 amps per pin is way more than 500W. But since you have four pins, you can spread the load, which is why ATX wiring is done that way. Huge safety margins, and as little heat in the wiring as possible. (ATX 12VHPWR excluded, they went a little too close to max spec there)

 

[reaper89971]

It doesn't start up at 320W. 320W max output without active cooling, 500W max output with active cooling.

Since your input is 12-48V, it should work at 27V, but I agree with some of the other posts in your other thread. I wouldn't necessarily use the included cable. If you check the wire gauge, maybe, but either getting a mini-fit jr plug and pins of your own to build a custom cable, or soldering direct to the board if you are careful enough. Just need 27V+ rated wire, which is pretty much all wire of sufficient size to handle that amount of current/power.

I already removed the modular ports off the power supply and fitted my own heat sinks to it. I have already started wiring the power supply myself. So i could use any gauge wire of my choice at this point. So i would like reccomendations on wire size. The wire holes or solder point holes are not that big though so i can't wire up really big wire but i can wire up better wire rated higher.

 

[Eximo]

Plenty of wire gauge calculators out there. Voltage, current, and length, material type, and you can pick out a wire size.

Though, going as big as possible won't hurt anything.

 

[kerberos_20]

I could wire heavy gauge wire to it. What gauge wire would i need for 27v 18.50 amps

there are four wires, 18.5 /4 = 4.6 amp per wire
or you want to use single wire and split it at the end? that is possible, car battery wire has good enough gauge

 

[reaper89971]

A smart person would have gotten a device built for purpose.

Instead of trying to adapt some janky chinesium doodad, with minimal electronics skills.

Well the power supply has a dedicated website and they are the maker of the smallest ATX in the world so they can't be all bad. It beats using an unbranded Chinese Pico power supply that is suppost to be rated at 600 watts.

Building a computer in a 30cm case is challenging to say the least. It is just a fun project it is not that serious.

You are better off going with a board that runs on a power brick. But those are usually weaker components.

 

[kerberos_20]

Well the power supply has a dedicated website and they are the maker of the smallest ATX in the world so they can't be all bad. It beats using an unbranded Chinese Pico power supply that is suppost to be rated at 600 watts.

Building a computer in a 30cm case is challenging to say the least. It is just a fun project it is not that serious.

You are better off going with a board that runs on a power brick. But those are usually weaker components.

its DC to DC, ofc it would be smaller than typical ATX power supply which is AC/DC, that AC/DC is unnecesary in solar/car enviroment...you still need to feed it power...so you cant call this power supply

 

[reaper89971]

its DC to DC, ofc it would be smaller than typical ATX power supply which is AC/DC, that AC/DC is unnecesary in solar/car enviroment

If you take the heavy duty shielding off/heat sink the board is really small. They have a mighty heat sink shield on it. that weighs almost 15 pounds. I put my own heat sinks on it and i was going to use some fans, 4 35mm fans to try to keep it cool but if it gets 2 hot im going to have to consider other power supply options.

 

[kerberos_20]

If you take the heavy duty shielding off/heat sink the board is really small. They have a mighty heat sink shield on it. that weighs almost 15 pounds. I put my own heat sinks on it and i was going to use some fans, 4 35mm fans to try to keep it cool but if it gets 2 hot im going to have to consider other power supply options.

this is just dc converter, you do still need to feed it with real power supply if ure not planning to use DC system (like from solar panel), it does however allows you to have that real AC/DC power supply outside of case (like on notebooks - powerbrick somewhere thrown in corner)