Question Why is my mobo not detecting my aio and CPU over heating

[Bemrawks]

Hello, I have just built a PC that I thought went well until I tried installing windows. First I went into my bios and realized my CPU temps were pretty high for just being turned in 10 seconds ago (78 degrees) and then I took a look at the fan panel in the Asus prime bios and saw that it's not detecting a aio. And then it just turned off. I thought it was just a bug thought so I tried going through with the windows installation. It turned off again. It did this how many times. After a certain amount of time it just turns off from what I'm assuming is the CPU overheating. I have plugged in the pump 3 pin into the AIO_PUMP on my mobo and the fans on CPU_FAN. nothing and then I tried plugging it into CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT with nothing changing. I know I removed the plastic on my aio because that's the first thing I did when I unboxed it and it wasn't there when I attached the attachments to mount it on a am5 CPU. Yes I put thermal paste
The mobo is a Asus prime x670e pro wifi. The aio is the cooler master m240l v2 RGB. I'm running Lian li fans intake on the rad. I saw in a video that the tubes are supposed to be vibrating when you touch them and it's on and mine doesn't.

 

[Lutfij]

Welcome to the forums, newcomer!

Did you follow through the installation for your AIO using instructions mentioned in your manual;
https://coolermaster.egnyte.com/dl/5XHA9DnwLt
?

You've taken off the protective plastic film on the cooling block? Can't hurt to doublecheck. Can you mention the orientation of the AIO with respect tot he case? Speaking of case, what case are you working with?

A picture of your cases' innards can be helpful tot he community.

 

[Bemrawks]

Welcome to the forums, newcomer!

Did you follow through the installation for your AIO using instructions mentioned in your manual;
https://coolermaster.egnyte.com/dl/5XHA9DnwLt
?

You've taken off the protective plastic film on the cooling block? Can't hurt to doublecheck. Can you mention the orientation of the AIO with respect tot he case? Speaking of case, what case are you working with?

A picture of your cases' innards can be helpful tot he community.

 

[Bemrawks]

Yes I followed the manual, only thing I did differently was I ditched the RGB controller and plugged it into my mobos for RGB. The RGB works on the pump and fans.
I 100 percent took the plastic bit off as there's a big tab on it that would make it pretty hard to install the brackets on the block.
If by aio orientation it's the right way up with the tubes coming from the top of the rad. It's located on the side of my hyte y60 and it's a intake.
I can't seem to find an option to add pictures, instead it's making me put in a url? Is there a way to insert photos from my phone directly ?
I also took a look at someone installing this aio and he put his mic on the tubes when he first booted up, and I can confirm that my aio does not whir or make that water noise on first boot up or at all.

 

[thestryker]

If you've got the pump plugged into a fan header that you know works then it sounds like you have a dead pump.

 

[drivinfast247]

Yes I followed the manual, only thing I did differently was I ditched the RGB controller and plugged it into my mobos for RGB. The RGB works on the pump and fans.
I 100 percent took the plastic bit off as there's a big tab on it that would make it pretty hard to install the brackets on the block.
If by aio orientation it's the right way up with the tubes coming from the top of the rad. It's located on the side of my hyte y60 and it's a intake.
I can't seem to find an option to add pictures, instead it's making me put in a url? Is there a way to insert photos from my phone directly ?
I also took a look at someone installing this aio and he put his mic on the tubes when he first booted up, and I can confirm that my aio does not whir or make that water noise on first boot up or at all.

If you connected SATA power and pump header and it doesn't power on during boot, you have a faulty pump.

 

[Bemrawks]

If you connected SATA power and pump header and it doesn't power on during boot, you have a faulty pump.

I believe my cooler gets it's power from the 3 pin, I didint see anyone plug in a SATA power connection to it on yt either

 

[Bemrawks]

If you've got the pump plugged into a fan header that you know works then it sounds like you have a dead pump.

Dang, that really sucks. I got this from a relative a few years back in like 2021. It was sealed in plastic from the factory and was never opened 😥.

 

[Bemrawks]

If you connected SATA power and pump header and it doesn't power on during boot, you have a faulty pump.

Also the RGB on the pump is working completely normally and is in sync with the fans connected to my mobo

 

[COLGeek]

Do you have the pump connected to the CPU_FAN header and the fans connected to the CPU_OPT header?

The RGB aspects mean nothing in terms of the AIO performing its cooling functions. Don't use that as a guide to determine whether the pump is defective.

 

[drivinfast247]

I believe my cooler gets it's power from the 3 pin, I didint see anyone plug in a SATA power connection to it on yt either

Whatever that breakout box is, did you connect it to the PSU?

 

[AntonyLovric]

I would try the way the manual shows (using the SATA/MOLEX PSU pass through), I'm wondering if the motherboard AIO doesn't think there is a pump attached and isn't sending power?

Try to hook it up as per the manual, if it's brand new out of the package, even though it's old you can try to contact Cooler Master and explain the problem, they might know of an issue / conflict with your motherboard and the cooler in question.

Good Luck!

 

[Bemrawks]

Whatever that breakout box is, did you connect it to the PSu?

I would try the way the manual shows (using the SATA/MOLEX PSU pass through), I'm wondering if the motherboard AIO doesn't think there is a pump attached and isn't sending power?

Try to hook it up as per the manual, if it's brand new out of the package, even though it's old you can try to contact Cooler Master and explain the problem, they might know of an issue / conflict with your motherboard and the cooler in question.

Good Luck!

Whatever that breakout box is, did you connect it to the PSU?

If by that you mean is the 24 pin plugged in to power the mobo yes. I didn't use the included controller.

 

[drivinfast247]

I believe the controller actually supplies power to to pump. I could be wrong, but let's install it as shown in the manual and see what happens.

 

[Bemrawks]

I believe the controller actually supplies power to to pump. I could be wrong, but let's install it as shown in the manual and see what happens.

Sure why not. I will try this as soon as I get back from school

 

[COLGeek]

I believe the controller actually supplies power to to pump. I could be wrong, but let's install it as shown in the manual and see what happens.

As I look at the diagram, that controller is for the RGB. Maybe I looked at a different manual, but that is how it appeared.

https://www.manua.ls/cooler-master/masterliquid-ml240l-rgb/manual?p=13

 

[drivinfast247]

As I look at the diagram, that controller is for the RGB. Maybe I looked at a different manual, but that is how it appeared.

https://www.manua.ls/cooler-master/masterliquid-ml240l-rgb/manual?p=13

It very well could be. But he states the RGB is working.

 

[COLGeek]

It very well could be. But he states the RGB is working.

Which means exactly nothing in regards to the fans and pump. Those are separately powered and managed.

 

[drivinfast247]

Which means exactly nothing in regards to the fans and pump. Those are separately powered and managed.

Which is exactly why I'm asking him to check it out.

 

[Bemrawks]

Which is exactly why I'm asking him to check it out.

i can see both sides, but theres nothing wrong with me checking it out. All i think that molex that connects to the controller is for is to power the controller unit itself. I will try this as a last resort
Edit: my bad not last resort i will try this when i have time or after if someone suggests somthing else

 

[Paperdoc]

As several have said, the LIGHTS are completely separate from the PUMP electrically, so all that has no relationship with OP's problem. The INTENT of this AIO system from the perspective of the PUMP and RAD FANS is this: The PUMP's 3-pin female connector should go to the CPU_FAN header OR to the AIO_PUMP header. That provides power to the pump and sends the pump's speed signal to that header for monitoring for failure. The RAD FANS should be connected (using the Splitter supplied) to the CPU_OPT header IF you plug the pump into the CPU_FAN header; OR put pump on AIO_PUMP and FANS on CPU_FAN. This will provide power to the fans and have their speed controlled automatically by the CPU temperature sensor.

Now, some points to check.
1. In either scheme for connecting above, it is important that the BOTH headers be set to use the newer PWM Mode - see the BIOS Manual, p. 10, at upper right in the drop-down selector. (Not the User Manual.) Do NOT set for Voltage or Automatic. For the rad fans, this is the correct type of control. For the PUMP, this uses a quirk of 3-pin fan and pump design the guarantees the pump's power supply from Pin #2 is always the full 12 VDC for full speed operation as designed.

2. OP says "Yes I put thermal paste". BUT also says the AIO Pump unit arrived with a plastic shield over its bottom contact surface, presumaby to protect a thin layer of pre-installed thermal paste. This means that the sytem now has TOO MUCH thermal paste in the gap betweeen CPU chip cover and pump bottom. A thick layer of paste there actually is BAD because it slows the rate of heat removal badly. IF that is the case, then OP needs to do two things: FIRST find out the RIGHT way to apply that thermal paste he has - look up how much to use for YOUR particular CPU chip type, and how to place the pump unit on top, spread the paste and tighten the pump down properly. THEN you must remove the pump, clean off all the paste you have on there, and re-do as instructions say.

3. Whether the pump it plugged into the CPU_FAN header or the AIO_PUMP header, that header normally monitors the SPEED signal sent back to it from the pump for NO signal - that is interpreted as a failure of CPU cooling. If that happens it pops up a warning message on your screen for a short time and then will shut down your system fairly quickly without even waiting for the temp sensor inside the CPU chip to show high temps. This is to prevent damage to the CPU from NO heat removal. Thereafter it also may refuse to allow you to start up if there is NO speed signal on that header right away as you try to boot. So IF your pump actually has failed and is not running, this will prevent any start-up attempt.

You can try a test for total pump failure this way. This is a TEMPORARY set-up to defeat that protective process, so do this only briefly. Disconnect the PUMP 3-pin lead from whatever header (CPU_FAN or AIO_PUMP) you have been using. Plug into that header instead the lead from any known-good fan so the header WILL get a valid speed signal. Now plug the PUMP into a CHA_FAN header. Boot into BIOS Setup immediately and go to that CHA_FAN header and check what it tells you for the"Fan Speed". This is really the{PUMP speed. If it is working it may show you a fast speed like 2000 RPM or higher, or some lower speed in the hundreds. BUT if it shows NO speed you know the pump is NOT running. Do this quickly, then shut the system down before the CPU gets too hot. Change everything back to the normal connections. Now you know whether the pump can work at all, or not.

4. When an AIO pump is operating properly is is very quiet and smooth. So it can be very hard to detect that operation by feeling for vibration or sound. A better technique IF you can get it to work at all is to feel for the TEMPERATURE of the hoses when the system is running normally. At the PUMP end, one hose should feel warmer than the other - not hot, just different. Same at the rad end - one warmer than the other. If there is NO temperature difference at both sites, then there is no fluid flow and the pump has failed. IF both hoses at the PUMP end are equally warm and the hoses at the rad end are both cool, same fault.

 

[Bemrawks]

As several have said, the LIGHTS are completely separate from the PUMP electrically, so all that has no relationship with OP's problem. The INTENT of this AIO system from the perspective of the PUMP and RAD FANS is this: The PUMP's 3-pin female connector should go to the CPU_FAN header OR to the AIO_PUMP header. That provides power to the pump and sends the pump's speed signal to that header for monitoring for failure. The RAD FANS should be connected (using the Splitter supplied) to the CPU_OPT header IF you plug the pump into the CPU_FAN header; OR put pump on AIO_PUMP and FANS on CPU_FAN. This will provide power to the fans and have their speed controlled automatically by the CPU temperature sensor.

Now, some points to check.
1. In either scheme for connecting above, it is important that the BOTH headers be set to use the newer PWM Mode - see the BIOS Manual, p. 10, at upper right in the drop-down selector. (Not the User Manual.) Do NOT set for Voltage or Automatic. For the rad fans, this is the correct type of control. For the PUMP, this uses a quirk of 3-pin fan and pump design the guarantees the pump's power supply from Pin #2 is always the full 12 VDC for full speed operation as designed.

2. OP says "Yes I put thermal paste". BUT also says the AIO Pump unit arrived with a plastic shield over its bottom contact surface, presumaby to protect a thin layer of pre-installed thermal paste. This means that the sytem now has TOO MUCH thermal paste in the gap betweeen CPU chip cover and pump bottom. A thick layer of paste there actually is BAD because it slows the rate of heat removal badly. IF that is the case, then OP needs to do two things: FIRST find out the RIGHT way to apply that thermal paste he has - look up how much to use for YOUR particular CPU chip type, and how to place the pump unit on top, spread the paste and tighten the pump down properly. THEN you must remove the pump, clean off all the paste you have on there, and re-do as instructions say.

3. Whether the pump it plugged into the CPU_FAN header or the AIO_PUMP header, that header normally monitors the SPEED signal sent back to it from the pump for NO signal - that is interpreted as a failure of CPU cooling. If that happens it pops up a warning message on your screen for a short time and then will shut down your system fairly quickly without even waiting for the temp sensor inside the CPU chip to show high temps. This is to prevent damage to the CPU from NO heat removal. Thereafter it also may refuse to allow you to start up if there is NO speed signal on that header right away as you try to boot. So IF your pump actually has failed and is not running, this will prevent any start-up attempt.

You can try a test for total pump failure this way. This is a TEMPORARY set-up to defeat that protective process, so do this only briefly. Disconnect the PUMP 3-pin lead from whatever header (CPU_FAN or AIO_PUMP) you have been using. Plug into that header instead the lead from any known-good fan so the header WILL get a valid speed signal. Now plug the PUMP into a CHA_FAN header. Boot into BIOS Setup immediately and go to that CHA_FAN header and check what it tells you for the"Fan Speed". This is really the{PUMP speed. If it is working it may show you a fast speed like 2000 RPM or higher, or some lower speed in the hundreds. BUT if it shows NO speed you know the pump is NOT running. Do this quickly, then shut the system down before the CPU gets too hot. Change everything back to the normal connections. Now you know whether the pump can work at all, or not.

4. When an AIO pump is operating properly is is very quiet and smooth. So it can be very hard to detect that operation by feeling for vibration or sound. A better technique IF you can get it to work at all is to feel for the TEMPERATURE of the hoses when the system is running normally. At the PUMP end, one hose should feel warmer than the other - not hot, just different. Same at the rad end - one warmer than the other. If there is NO temperature difference at both sites, then there is no fluid flow and the pump has failed. IF both hoses at the PUMP end are equally warm and the hoses at the rad end are both cool, same fault.

thanks alot for the detailed reply, i really appreciate it.
1. I have tried putting the aio to pwm yesterday but not teh rad fans. I will try this when i get home.
2. I highly doubt that there was pre applied thermal paste, as the bottomn was just copper and it felt cold b4 i touched it. i know this because i installed the aio + rad fans b4 i put in my mobo. I can try re apply the thermal paste because it was my first time applying thermal paste and i mightve added too much. i used a pea size pattern.
3.i think it is cpu cooling failure, because exactly what you said is happening to me. i dont get a message but it shuts off. if i try turning it on right after it shuts off it shuts off right away. I have to wait 20 minutes and then turn it on again to use it for 3 minutes.
i have also already tried plugging it into CHA_FAN 4 on my mobo and nothing happened. i plugged the fans into cpu_fan (where the pump was when it didint show anything) and it got a signal from the CPU_FAN. CHA_FAN4 didint show naything but i will try again and let you know
4. according to what you are saying my pump isint a total dud, because one tube was not exactly hot, but warm, and the other tube wasnt freezing cold but it was definetly cooler than the other tube.
Thanks alot again.

 

[Bemrawks]

As several have said, the LIGHTS are completely separate from the PUMP electrically, so all that has no relationship with OP's problem. The INTENT of this AIO system from the perspective of the PUMP and RAD FANS is this: The PUMP's 3-pin female connector should go to the CPU_FAN header OR to the AIO_PUMP header. That provides power to the pump and sends the pump's speed signal to that header for monitoring for failure. The RAD FANS should be connected (using the Splitter supplied) to the CPU_OPT header IF you plug the pump into the CPU_FAN header; OR put pump on AIO_PUMP and FANS on CPU_FAN. This will provide power to the fans and have their speed controlled automatically by the CPU temperature sensor.

Now, some points to check.
1. In either scheme for connecting above, it is important that the BOTH headers be set to use the newer PWM Mode - see the BIOS Manual, p. 10, at upper right in the drop-down selector. (Not the User Manual.) Do NOT set for Voltage or Automatic. For the rad fans, this is the correct type of control. For the PUMP, this uses a quirk of 3-pin fan and pump design the guarantees the pump's power supply from Pin #2 is always the full 12 VDC for full speed operation as designed.

2. OP says "Yes I put thermal paste". BUT also says the AIO Pump unit arrived with a plastic shield over its bottom contact surface, presumaby to protect a thin layer of pre-installed thermal paste. This means that the sytem now has TOO MUCH thermal paste in the gap betweeen CPU chip cover and pump bottom. A thick layer of paste there actually is BAD because it slows the rate of heat removal badly. IF that is the case, then OP needs to do two things: FIRST find out the RIGHT way to apply that thermal paste he has - look up how much to use for YOUR particular CPU chip type, and how to place the pump unit on top, spread the paste and tighten the pump down properly. THEN you must remove the pump, clean off all the paste you have on there, and re-do as instructions say.

3. Whether the pump it plugged into the CPU_FAN header or the AIO_PUMP header, that header normally monitors the SPEED signal sent back to it from the pump for NO signal - that is interpreted as a failure of CPU cooling. If that happens it pops up a warning message on your screen for a short time and then will shut down your system fairly quickly without even waiting for the temp sensor inside the CPU chip to show high temps. This is to prevent damage to the CPU from NO heat removal. Thereafter it also may refuse to allow you to start up if there is NO speed signal on that header right away as you try to boot. So IF your pump actually has failed and is not running, this will prevent any start-up attempt.

You can try a test for total pump failure this way. This is a TEMPORARY set-up to defeat that protective process, so do this only briefly. Disconnect the PUMP 3-pin lead from whatever header (CPU_FAN or AIO_PUMP) you have been using. Plug into that header instead the lead from any known-good fan so the header WILL get a valid speed signal. Now plug the PUMP into a CHA_FAN header. Boot into BIOS Setup immediately and go to that CHA_FAN header and check what it tells you for the"Fan Speed". This is really the{PUMP speed. If it is working it may show you a fast speed like 2000 RPM or higher, or some lower speed in the hundreds. BUT if it shows NO speed you know the pump is NOT running. Do this quickly, then shut the system down before the CPU gets too hot. Change everything back to the normal connections. Now you know whether the pump can work at all, or not.

4. When an AIO pump is operating properly is is very quiet and smooth. So it can be very hard to detect that operation by feeling for vibration or sound. A better technique IF you can get it to work at all is to feel for the TEMPERATURE of the hoses when the system is running normally. At the PUMP end, one hose should feel warmer than the other - not hot, just different. Same at the rad end - one warmer than the other. If there is NO temperature difference at both sites, then there is no fluid flow and the pump has failed. IF both hoses at the PUMP end are equally warm and the hoses at the rad end are both cool, same fault.

Just checked the list you gave me except for 4 because I'm pretty sure this is a pump failure. Big bummer but changing it to pwm in bios did nth, moving to to Cha fan 4 did nothing. I checked the heatsink and thermal paste and I don't see anything out of the ordinary. How do I add images on here so I can show what the CPU and heatsink look like with the thermal paste?

 

[COLGeek]

Upload images to a site like imgur.com and then post a link here.

 

[Bemrawks]

Just checked the list you gave me except for 4 because I'm pretty sure this is a pump failure. Big bummer but changing it to pwm in bios did nth, moving to to Cha fan 4 did nothing. I checked the heatsink and thermal paste and I don't see anything out of the ordinary. How do I add images on here so I can show what the CPU and heatsink look like with the thermal paste?

Upload images to a site like imgur.com and then post a link here.

I tried this and it told me link not accepted lol