WTB 8GB(2x4GB) of 1600mhz G.Skill, preffer Ripjaw Z or Ares. Kingston HyperX

[mmkmmk3]

Got all my other parts bought, just need RAM! As long as it's G.Skill I'll consider it. Will also consider Kingston HyperX. Gimme your price & we'll work from there.

 

[Vierum]

Just in the title. I'm looking to pick up a few now and some later. As long as nothing goes wrong I should be able to buy one or two, but that's a big if tbh.

I prefer an EVGA gpu.

I do own the i7-3770k, I have a post up about if you want to read it but,
it's $200 for it and if you're interested, I do have a GTX 660 that's 120, if you are interested in both or one, let me know.
There's a bundle deal if you do want to buy both, $290 for both.

Well, thank you.

 

[Christopher Shaffer]

I have a Seasonic G650 PSU that's about 2 months old. It's modular and in perfect working order. I'm about to add another GTX770 and am buying an 850W Seasonic to replace this in order to support SLI.

You can see the same model here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151118

It's $105 new; I'd let it go for $50+shipping.

 

[mmkmmk3]

I have a Seasonic G650 PSU that's about 2 months old. It's modular and in perfect working order. I'm about to add another GTX770 and am buying an 850W Seasonic to replace this in order to support SLI.

You can see the same model here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151118

It's $105 new; I'd let it go for $50+shipping.

I appreciate the offer. I'll think about it but I'm moreso wanting to buy the mobo,cpu,gpu first to make sure I have enough money just in case.

Also I don't see why you'd need that much power unless you're OC'ng or have something like a 3930x and 1866+ ram along side the GPU's. It's nice to have but from memory you shouldn't need much more than 650w, otherwise.

 

[Christopher Shaffer]

I have a Seasonic G650 PSU that's about 2 months old. It's modular and in perfect working order. I'm about to add another GTX770 and am buying an 850W Seasonic to replace this in order to support SLI.

You can see the same model here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151118

It's $105 new; I'd let it go for $50+shipping.

I appreciate the offer. I'll think about it but I'm moreso wanting to buy the mobo,cpu,gpu first to make sure I have enough money just in case.

Also I don't see why you'd need that much power unless you're OC'ng or have something like a 3930x and 1866+ ram along side the GPU's. It's nice to have but from memory you shouldn't need much more than 650w, otherwise.

My 3570k is oc'd to 4.5GHz, so it uses a bit more wattage.

There are a few PSU wattage calculators out there, but they all use this basic form:

http://www.thermaltake.outervision.com/Power

Based on my system usage, and compensating for future upgrades, my minimum PSU should be a Gold or Platinum-certified, 750W. Taking this into account and planning ahead, 850W is practical.

Also, with your setup, I'd strongly suggest at least a 600W PSU. A 550W, even platinum, will just barely meet the minimum requirements.

Keep in mind, even if the PSU runs 90% efficient, that's still just 495W. The 760 alone suggests a stronger PSU as the minimum recommended is 500W.

 

[mmkmmk3]

I have a Seasonic G650 PSU that's about 2 months old. It's modular and in perfect working order. I'm about to add another GTX770 and am buying an 850W Seasonic to replace this in order to support SLI.

You can see the same model here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151118

It's $105 new; I'd let it go for $50+shipping.

I appreciate the offer. I'll think about it but I'm moreso wanting to buy the mobo,cpu,gpu first to make sure I have enough money just in case.

Also I don't see why you'd need that much power unless you're OC'ng or have something like a 3930x and 1866+ ram along side the GPU's. It's nice to have but from memory you shouldn't need much more than 650w, otherwise.

My 3570k is oc'd to 4.5GHz, so it uses a bit more wattage.

There are a few PSU wattage calculators out there, but they all use this basic form:

http://www.thermaltake.outervision.com/Power

Based on my system usage, and compensating for future upgrades, my minimum PSU should be a Gold or Platinum-certified, 750W. Taking this into account and planning ahead, 850W is practical.

Also, with your setup, I'd strongly suggest at least a 600W PSU. A 550W, even platinum, will just barely meet the minimum requirements.

Keep in mind, even if the PSU runs 90% efficient, that's still just 495W. The 760 alone suggests a stronger PSU as the minimum recommended is 500W.

I've heard people say that you can use, as they have, an Antec Earth 550w PSU for their rig of the same specs. I'll think about it but still looking to pick up the main parts first.

 

[airdeano]

Just in the title. I'm looking to pick up a few now and some later. As long as nothing goes wrong I should be able to buy one or two, but that's a big if tbh.

I prefer an EVGA gpu.

i have a MSI Z77a-GD65 available for sale.
PM if interested.
airdeano

 

[Christopher Shaffer]

I have a Seasonic G650 PSU that's about 2 months old. It's modular and in perfect working order. I'm about to add another GTX770 and am buying an 850W Seasonic to replace this in order to support SLI.

You can see the same model here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151118

It's $105 new; I'd let it go for $50+shipping.

I appreciate the offer. I'll think about it but I'm moreso wanting to buy the mobo,cpu,gpu first to make sure I have enough money just in case.

Also I don't see why you'd need that much power unless you're OC'ng or have something like a 3930x and 1866+ ram along side the GPU's. It's nice to have but from memory you shouldn't need much more than 650w, otherwise.

My 3570k is oc'd to 4.5GHz, so it uses a bit more wattage.

There are a few PSU wattage calculators out there, but they all use this basic form:

http://www.thermaltake.outervision.com/Power

Based on my system usage, and compensating for future upgrades, my minimum PSU should be a Gold or Platinum-certified, 750W. Taking this into account and planning ahead, 850W is practical.

Also, with your setup, I'd strongly suggest at least a 600W PSU. A 550W, even platinum, will just barely meet the minimum requirements.

Keep in mind, even if the PSU runs 90% efficient, that's still just 495W. The 760 alone suggests a stronger PSU as the minimum recommended is 500W.

I've heard people say that you can use, as they have, an Antec Earth 550w PSU for their rig of the same specs. I'll think about it but still looking to pick up the main parts first.

I'm not trying to be tough about this, but I'm an EE. I can assure you that your system specs will require a minimum 80+ Gold 600W PSU, or 650-700W 80+ Bronze.

It doesn't matter what people with the same specs SAY, it's the math and science that dictate the facts. The fact is that 550W at Platinum means its just barely able to hit your minimum wattage requirements, and that's under fairly optimal conditions.

This means if you plug in a few USB devices, such as an external drive, keyboard, mouse and maybe a gamepad and pull even 25 more W, you could have an unstable system.

You can go by hearsay, or you can use logic and science, apply the math and get a real answer.

 

[mmkmmk3]

I have a Seasonic G650 PSU that's about 2 months old. It's modular and in perfect working order. I'm about to add another GTX770 and am buying an 850W Seasonic to replace this in order to support SLI.

You can see the same model here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151118

It's $105 new; I'd let it go for $50+shipping.

I appreciate the offer. I'll think about it but I'm moreso wanting to buy the mobo,cpu,gpu first to make sure I have enough money just in case.

Also I don't see why you'd need that much power unless you're OC'ng or have something like a 3930x and 1866+ ram along side the GPU's. It's nice to have but from memory you shouldn't need much more than 650w, otherwise.

My 3570k is oc'd to 4.5GHz, so it uses a bit more wattage.

There are a few PSU wattage calculators out there, but they all use this basic form:

http://www.thermaltake.outervision.com/Power

Based on my system usage, and compensating for future upgrades, my minimum PSU should be a Gold or Platinum-certified, 750W. Taking this into account and planning ahead, 850W is practical.

Also, with your setup, I'd strongly suggest at least a 600W PSU. A 550W, even platinum, will just barely meet the minimum requirements.

Keep in mind, even if the PSU runs 90% efficient, that's still just 495W. The 760 alone suggests a stronger PSU as the minimum recommended is 500W.

I've heard people say that you can use, as they have, an Antec Earth 550w PSU for their rig of the same specs. I'll think about it but still looking to pick up the main parts first.

I'm not trying to be tough about this, but I'm an EE. I can assure you that your system specs will require a minimum 80+ Gold 600W PSU, or 650-700W 80+ Bronze.

It doesn't matter what people with the same specs SAY, it's the math and science that dictate the facts. The fact is that 550W at Platinum means its just barely able to hit your minimum wattage requirements, and that's under fairly optimal conditions.

This means if you plug in a few USB devices, such as an external drive, keyboard, mouse and maybe a gamepad and pull even 25 more W, you could have an unstable system.

You can go by hearsay, or you can use logic and science, apply the math and get a real answer.

I didn't say you were wrong, I can add wattage and figure out my power consumption. How about you respect my opinion and leave me back to trying to buy the other parts first.

 

[mmkmmk3]

Bump up,

Got all my other parts bought, just need RAM! As long as it's G.Skill I'll consider it. Will also consider Kingston HyperX. Gimme your price & we'll work from there.

 

[JonnyDough]

I will add my $.02

When calculating a PSU you must be aware of MAX draw from your system on each rail. For instance, you can't hook up a bunch of stuff to one rail (you need to be sure both are being utilized if it's a dual rail) in order to get the most efficiency and lowest possible power/costing PSU required. Always get a bit more than what you think you'll need to be safe, but we're talking about 50-100w if you do your math properly - not a 750w PSU for a system that will only ever draw 400w. AMPs matter. Some lower-end PSUs will have a high voltage rating but will not supply enough amps to keep the system from crashing/rebooting. There are a lot of great articles out there, some are better than others but what they will all tell you is to find a reputable supplier with a mid grade line. Steer clear of the budget PSUs, even if they do claim an 80+ rating. Efficiency is not the some as longevity - in other words just because it can grab an 80+ rating does not mean that it won't die on you in a year after it's warranty expires and take your shiny new motherboard with it. Systems today are more sensitive than ever to fluctuations in power because they are using finer lithography, but these systems are also more capable and should last for more years. Gone are the years of the home user desiring to replace their system once a year - I may easily have my Core i5 for five years before I consider an upgrade - so spending more on a power supply is important to me. Buying a better PSU also raises the standard and keeps companies that are making worthless junk from continuing to exist and lowering the overall quality expectations of consumers.

Today's CPUs and GPUs do not necessarily use less energy under a good load. The power needed is harder than ever to calculate. Most high end desktop CPUs today still dance near a rating of 100w, memory sticks are not that significant overall, we're talking a few watts less than previous years and those add up a lot more where hundreds of systems at a business are concerned. If your current PSU can handle a single card on a single of dual rails+the CPU and anything on the 12V lines, then it should effectively be able to handle adding another card onto the other rail. It really depends on whether or not the other rail is already picking up part of the load. I forget what it's called and I may be speaking out of me arse, but I believe that some PSUs will have "dual rails" that work together automagically to support the system load. You'll have to do more research into the PSU you're using I think.

 

[Christopher Shaffer]

I will add my $.02

When calculating a PSU you must be aware of MAX draw from your system on each rail. For instance, you can't hook up a bunch of stuff to one rail (you need to be sure both are being utilized if it's a dual rail) in order to get the most efficiency and lowest possible power/costing PSU required. Always get a bit more than what you think you'll need to be safe, but we're talking about 50-100w if you do your math properly - not a 750w PSU for a system that will only ever draw 400w. AMPs matter. Some lower-end PSUs will have a high voltage rating but will not supply enough amps to keep the system from crashing/rebooting There are a lot of great articles out there, some are better than others but what they will all tell you is to find a reputable supplier with a mid grade line. Steer clear of the budget PSUs, even if they do claim an 80+ rating. Efficiency is not the some as longevity - in other words just because it can grab an 80+ rating does not mean that it won't die on you in a year after it's warranty expires and take your shiny new motherboard with it. Systems today are more sensitive than ever to fluctuations in power because they are using finer lithography, but these systems are also more capable and should last for more years. Gone are the years of the home user desiring to replace their system once a year - I may easily have my Core i5 for five years before I consider an upgrade - so spending more on a power supply is important to me. Buying a better PSU also raises the standard and keeps companies that are making worthless junk from continuing to exist and lowering the overall quality expectations of consumers.

Today's CPUs and GPUs do not necessarily use less energy under a good load. The power needed is harder than ever to calculate. Most high end desktop CPUs today still dance near a rating of 100w, memory sticks are not that significant overall, we're talking a few watts less than previous years and those add up a lot more where hundreds of systems at a business are concerned. If your current PSU can handle a single card on a single of dual rails+the CPU and anything on the 12V lines, then it should effectively be able to handle adding another card onto the other rail. It really depends on whether or not the other rail is already picking up part of the load. I forget what it's called and I may be speaking out of me arse, but I believe that some PSUs will have "dual rails" that work together automagically to support the system load. You'll have to do more research into the PSU you're using I think.

Dual rails are effectively a way for a less expensive design to perform as robustly as a single-rail gold/platinum solution. They "share the load" so that the draw doesn't tax the PSU, in a nutshell.

The general consensus is that a high quality single rail 80+ platinum or gold is slightly better vs. "equivalent" quality dual rail and that the dual rail is usually a cost-savings decision in the design; more efficiency, less cost.

You'll notice anything from Seasonic or any other quality platinum PSU manufacturer is always a single rail. You usually see dual rail in lower-cost PSUs that still magically make the 80+ gold mark because the dual rail setup allows them to hit that level of efficiency.

In a nutshell, do your research on quality PSUs and who makes who's PSU for them. Just a note: the answer is often Seasonic, especially on major brands' high-end PSU offerings.

 

[mmkmmk3]

I'd like to add that this isn't a PSU debate thread and it was a dead WTB thread. I picked up all my parts including the psu, a modular 650W for less than what was offered here. I can effectively find out what psu I need. I may not build computers for a living but I'm not an idiot, I'm getting my electronic engineering degree at 17.

For forum's sake, if a mod sees this thread please close it.