2 builds under 3k, which one is the winner

[caesparktom]

after talk with mjmjpfaff about my build here, I have two contenders. Quick votes & thoughtful advice both welcome. Hoping to buy this thing this week.

Approximate Purchase Date: this week
Budget Range: 3000 usd
System Usage from Most to Least Important: Rhino, Autocad, CS5
Parts Not Required: -
Preferred Website(s) for Parts: -
Country of Origin: China
Parts Preferences: see parts list below
Overclocking: no
SLI or Crossfire: no
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080
Additional Comments: workstation

OPTION 1:
MOBO: SUPERMICRO MBD-X8DAi
CPU: 2x Xeon E5620
GPU: NVidia Quadro 2000
RAM: Mushkin Enhanced Blackline 12GB (3 x 4GB)
SSD: Crucial C300（128GB）
HDD: WD Caviar Black 1TB
DVD: Sony Optiarc AD-7240S
LCD: LG IPS231P-BN Black 23"
Key: K120(Logitech)
Mouse: M90(Logitech)
Case: Corsair 700D
PSU: Corsair HX750

OPTION 2:
MOBO: ASUS P8P67 WS REVOLUTION
CPU: i7 2600k
GPU: NVidia Quadro 2000
RAM: corsair vengeance ddr3 1600 12gb(3x4gb)
SSD: Crucial C300（128GB）
HDD: SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB
DVD: Sony Optiarc AD-7240S
LCD: ASUS ProArt Series PA246Q Black 24.1"
Key: K120(Logitech)
Mouse: M90(Logitech)
Case: Corsair 700D
PSU: Corsair HX750

*It was also suggested that i give up the quadro 2000 for mainstrem gaming graphics card like a 560 ti or 570, but instead i upgraded my monitor.

 

[flong]

That's great advice and kind of my point. If you want to push the CPU hard for bragging rights that's totally OK, but otherwise it's not needed. Unless you are pushing the CPU so hard that the 2 or 3 degrees Celsius is really needed, you don't have to have the absolute best air cooler.

And that's why the CM Hyper 212+ has been so widely promoted for SB builds. Back when we were doing LGA 775 heat was a bigger issue and I really needed that Xigmatek cooler (considered one of the best back then). Now most people don't quite need the best cooling they can get, just very good cooling. And a number of products will get you there. Some of the Noctua coolers are great but what sets them apart actually is the quality of the fans. You can get the same thing with, for instance, a Prolimatech Megahalems and a couple Noctua fans.

Having said all that there is no such thing as overkill if your budget supports it. Nothing wrong with 2C cooler, and a high end heatsink might well be supported with a inexpensive upgrade kit when the next platform comes along.

This is really true and Proximon makes a great point. For lower overclocks probably the very cheap hyper 212 would be sufficient as a cooler and it costs about $30. But if your budget can afford it, the Silver Arrow or the Noctua NH-D14 are superior in cooling - and cooling is the most critical component to the longevity of your system (assuming you have a quality PSU that puts out stable current). For myself, I chose the D-14 because I want the maximum cooling that I can get for my components. I don't plans to overclock much past 5Ghz but I still want my components as cool as possible.

I am not even close to being an overclocking expert but I have put a significant amount of time into researching the K chips for overclocking. There are probably millions of K-chip users out there right now running overclocks between 4.0Ghz - 5Ghz with no problems. Will it affect the the lifespan of the CPU, I doubt it. Intel built in the overclocking function and the K-chips run much cooler than the I-7 9XX CPUs when overclocked. Others can chime in but it is hard to foresee problems with running a 2500K-2600K at an overclock of 5 Ghz or less, because everyone and their brother is doing it.

Because the K-chips made overclocking so dirt-simple, they brought it mainstream. Most of the better 1155 boards actually do the overclocking for you to a limited degree. I have a friend who has never built a computer and has never overclocked anything. He just bought all the parts for a new build with a 2600K and he is going to overclock it - and he doesn't know hardly anything about computers.

Because so many people are overclocking the K-chips, if there were problems we would be hearing about it - but we are not. Instead we are hearing positives on how easy OC is and what great speed increases are being realized. It appears that for a 5 Ghz or less overclock, there is not much to worry about.

That being said, I think the world of OC above 5Ghz is just now being entered into and it is a much different world. In this world, CPU heat is an issue and the K-chips are being pushed to their maximum limits. The chances are much greater in this world that longevity could be affected. We don't know right now, but as more and more people shoot for 6 Ghz overclocks we will start to get feedback.

That being said, most people are going to replace their computers every 3-5 years anyway and so how much longevity do we need?

 

[caesparktom]

Any other modest cooling solutions recommended for sandybridge beside hyper 212+? After reading through both your comments I am thoroughly torn, but ultimately if a 30 dollar fan will work just fine I don't really want a 90 dollar one. still, I do get strangely excited by the thought of running nice and cool, especially when shes on for days at time.

It appears that for a 5 Ghz or less overclock, there is not much to worry about.

Really!? wow. I didn't plan on going above 4.5 or so.

 

[flong]

Any other modest cooling solutions recommended for sandybridge beside hyper 212+? After reading through both your comments I am thoroughly torn, but ultimately if a 30 dollar fan will work just fine I don't really want a 90 dollar one. still, I do get strangely excited by the thought of running nice and cool, especially when shes on for days at time.

It appears that for a 5 Ghz or less overclock, there is not much to worry about.

Really!? wow. I didn't plan on going above 4.5 or so.

Really it is a matter of your personal philosophy and your budget. Probably thousands of people who post on this forum have the Hyper 212 and are very happy with it. But they have never experienced what a mega cooler like the D-14, the Megalim with two fans or the Silver Arrow can do. Still the 212 keeps there system within acceptable limits and they like it because it outperforms the stock cooler.

Conversely, there are a lot of people who want their components as cool as possible. Their reasoning is to extend the life of all of their components and to build in a safety factor. They also can afford better cooling. For this group, those that choose air cooling go to the D-14, the Silver Arrow or a similar high-end cooler because they are the best in air cooling without sounding like a buzz-saw in your case.

There is also a small hard core group who will run buzz-saw loud coolers because they are pushing their computer to the max and it is an acceptable sacrifice for them. However, the buzz-saw loud coolers don't offer that much advantage over the D-14 or the Silver Arrow in cooling.

So it becomes a matter of your philosophy. For me, I want a quiet cooler that will cool to the max. The D-14 is currently the best air cooler that fits that definition in my opinion. It is worth the extra $60.00 for me because the quality if MUCH better for the D-14 overall. That being said, the 212 is a tried and true cooler that many people swear by and so it is also a quality cooler. It just is not as good as the D-14. High-end quality always costs more. A Hyundai is a good car and it gets the job done - but it is not as good as a Toyota or in this case a Lexus would be a better comparison. The D-14 is the Lexus of air coolers.

 

[caesparktom]

I'm considering corsair A-series cooler--A50 or A70. Not in league with Nh-D14/silver arrow interms of performance, but every review I read echos the same thing you're both telling me that the sandybridge doesn't require that much cooling. Like this quote from benchmarkreviews about the silver arrow:

It's almost ironic that coolers like this are becoming available just as processors transition to designs that may ultimately render them unnecessary; even overclocked to 5GHz, an Intel Sandy Bridge 2600K doesn't need anywhere near this level of cooling.

Of course, your points on lifespan and safety margin are valid, but I think I will be happy with just "very-good" cooling considering I just need maybe 4 yrs out of this thing. Would probably go with hyper 212+ if I could find it out here(sadly I can't), and reviews of A50/A70 are good. Most importantly they are quite a bit cheaper and quieter than nh-d14. (And i confess that I certainly prefer black color and smaller dimensions for my 650D mid-tower). Am I missing anything?

some reviews:
http://www.kitguru.net/components/cooling/zardon/corsair-a50-and-a70-coolers-review/5/
http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/corsair_a50_a70/5.htm
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Corsair-A70-CPU-Cooler-Review/1159/1

Also, curious how people feel about corsair H-series--h50/h70. Wasn't really considering liquid-cooling, but noise reduction seems like something I wouldn't mind spending a premium on. Looks like A50 and A70 both put out about 35 db on high (src). but case fans must make almost that much noise anyway right, so would my system really be all that much quiter?

 

[caesparktom]

hmm, found the scythe mugen 2 for basically same price as a70. maybe I'll go with it instead. Install is a pain apparently and its almost a big as the nhd14 ...can't decide.

 

[flong]

I'm considering corsair A-series cooler--A50 or A70. Not in league with Nh-D14/silver arrow interms of performance, but every review I read echos the same thing you're both telling me that the sandybridge doesn't require that much cooling. Like this quote from benchmarkreviews about the silver arrow:

It's almost ironic that coolers like this are becoming available just as processors transition to designs that may ultimately render them unnecessary; even overclocked to 5GHz, an Intel Sandy Bridge 2600K doesn't need anywhere near this level of cooling.

Of course, your points on lifespan and safety margin are valid, but I think I will be happy with just "very-good" cooling considering I just need maybe 4 yrs out of this thing. Would probably go with hyper 212+ if I could find it out here(sadly I can't), and reviews of A50/A70 are good. Most importantly they are quite a bit cheaper and quieter than nh-d14. (And i confess that I certainly prefer black color and smaller dimensions for my 650D mid-tower). Am I missing anything?

some reviews:
http://www.kitguru.net/components/cooling/zardon/corsair-a50-and-a70-coolers-review/5/
http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/corsair_a50_a70/5.htm
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Corsair-A70-CPU-Cooler-Review/1159/1

Also, curious how people feel about corsair H-series--h50/h70. Wasn't really considering liquid-cooling, but noise reduction seems like something I wouldn't mind spending a premium on. Looks like A50 and A70 both put out about 35 db on high (src). but case fans must make almost that much noise anyway right, so would my system really be all that much quiter?

The previous older Corsair models which I think are the A- series (check me on this) did not review well because they were so loud and their cooling was only above average.

The new Corsair water coolers are much more quiet and they appear to be the real deal. Here is a review of the H-60

http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/43627-corsair-h60-high-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler-review.html

The third review you list shows the Corsair A-70 noise level to be 56 DB which is quite loud. The D-14 is shown at 48 which is not silent but is within acceptable range. You can install the voltage adapters that come with the D-14 and it will run at one of three speeds that you can preselect. Note that the fans are not PWM controllable. If you select the lowest speed for the fans the D-14 becomes "silent" in operation and still cools extremely well. It only loses something like 2 degrees C of cooling and the noise level is around 30 DB.

I admire Corsair a lot but if you are going with their liquid coolers go with the new generation which have all the bugs worked out. In the review above the H-60 does a great job of cooling AND remaining quiet.

 

[caesparktom]

thanks for link. quite a review. I like the square low-profile head for sure. Though from these charts it is louder than both the H50 and H70, and doesn't seem to cool much better than the A-series, which as you said are just above average performers. I really want to like the H60, but failing to see what the actual niche IS besides looking really cool. BTW, is there any risk of damaging mb by hanging huge heat sinks off the board. Seems like if I move my system from one room to another the stress placed on the board by the heat sink weight combined with a little wall bump would be disastrous. And, should I dismount if moving it by car. I guess, I'm wondering if there is some portability/durability argument for the H60.

 

[caesparktom]

then again the following review found very different results:

http://www.hardwareheaven.com/reviews/1125/pg6/corsair-h60-liquid-cpu-cooler-review-thermal-acoustic-performance.html

Shows H60 to be quieter than H50 and H70 at 22C ambient temp. so go figure

 

[flong]

then again the following review found very different results:

http://www.hardwareheaven.com/reviews/1125/pg6/corsair-h60-liquid-cpu-cooler-review-thermal-acoustic-performance.html

Shows H60 to be quieter than H50 and H70 at 22C ambient temp. so go figure

That is one impressive review for the H60. It nearly matches the H70 in cooling and the new fan design makes it much cooler. The Tunig cooler is a big time cooler and the H60 beats it and it is quieter. Like I said, it appears that with the H60, Corsair has finally found a design to compete with the big boys. That is one serious cooler and I am very interested. It still doesn't beat the D-14 in cooling but it is quieter (on full fan) and it is in that exclusive cooling neighborhood.

I wouldn't worry too much about sound level differences in different reviews. There is no accepted test standard for testing DB levels. Some reviewers take their levels 15" in front of the computer and others 3'-4' away. What you want to look for are the comparative levels of other coolers in the same review.

For example I have been very interested in the Corsair 650D and it has had frustratingly mixed reviews on noise level. Most reviewers say it is a quiet case and fan noise is negligible and no issue, however a couple of reviews say fan noise is a problem. From taking the preponderance opinions of the reviews I have concluded that the case is quiet and that the two reviews that do mention noise are outliers and their review techniques are overly stringent (one tested DB levels 15" from the front of the case as I mentioned).

Corsair's previous CPU cooler models would cool well but were buzz-saw noisy. Even the H70 at 56 DB is pretty obnoxious. Heck the D-14 at 48 DB is pushing it but Noctua includes fan voltage controllers for free to lower the fan speed to near silence and it still maintains its amazing cooling capacity. The

As for your question about the CPU coolers being so large and moving your computer - I am guessing it would depend on the quality of the CPU cooler mounting hardware. The D-14 mounting hardware is second to none and is universally praised. Other people with the large coolers should chime in here.

That being said, simple physics would say that the H60 would be the better cooler if you are going to be moving you computer a lot (like LAN parties). It simply doesn't have all that weight hanging on the mobo. I think that coolers like the D-14 are meant for sedentary computers not mobile ones.

 

[flong]

thanks for link. quite a review. I like the square low-profile head for sure. Though from these charts it is louder than both the H50 and H70, and doesn't seem to cool much better than the A-series, which as you said are just above average performers. I really want to like the H60, but failing to see what the actual niche IS besides looking really cool. BTW, is there any risk of damaging mb by hanging huge heat sinks off the board. Seems like if I move my system from one room to another the stress placed on the board by the heat sink weight combined with a little wall bump would be disastrous. And, should I dismount if moving it by car. I guess, I'm wondering if there is some portability/durability argument for the H60.

It appears that the Tweaktown review was a brand new model not yet in production. Both of the other reviews show the H60 to be a very quiet cooler.

In the Hardware Canucks review they outfitted the H60 with two Noctua fans (Noctua makes great fans) and it beat everything - however you have the added cost of two high quality fans (about $15 each).

With the stock fan that comes with it, the noise level appears to be 2-3 DB above the D-14 which is still very impressive. The H60 is one impressive cooler.

What would really rock is to get two high quality PWM controlled fans and put them on the H60, I bet this would make the cooler nearly silent most of the time and you would get top high-end cooling that competes with the D-14 and Silver Arrow.

 

[caesparktom]

ok, you've convinced me. I will give the h60 a try and see how the single stock fan does before replacing it or adding a second.

 

[flong]

Hey I'm not trying to convince you ha, ha - I think I may still go with the D-14. The D-14 is just the biggest baddest gorilla on the block. On newegg reviews it has nearly a 90% five-egg approval. I have not seen any other product on newegg even approach that level of customer satisfaction. That being said, it appears that the H-60 is a breakthrough for Corsair and cheap liquid coolers in general. Before the H-60 the cheaper liquid coolers just didn't cut it. If they were cooled well they were too loud. If they were not too loud, they were mediocre coolers. The H-60 is a breakthrough judging from the reviews. It is quiet and it is a top cooler.

On top of all this, the H-60 is only $70.00 and if it is like other Corsair products you will be able to get great buys on it. I can't wait for the next rumored H-80 which is the upgrade to the H-70 in the new model form of the H-60 - it may be the king of coolers if it is as well designed as the H-60. The key for the Corsair coolers has always been noise problems - they worked but they were loud. The H-60 appears to not only improve on noise but also appears to improve on already capable cooling.

Everyone knows that water / liquid cooling has superior cooling capacity - the problem is that to do it right is a $300 - $400 deal and a lot of work. Corsair appears to be changing that equation.

 

[caesparktom]

well, you helped me convince myself anyway. I have no doubt i would be very happy with d-14 or silver arrow for that matter, but for whatever reason i decided not to go with a huge mega-cooler, superior though they may be. And I really don't think I will oc above 4.5 ghz. I'm convinced the h60 will handle that just fine. Actually, the hardwareheaven review above was nice enough to benchmark temps with a 2600k oced @ 4.4ghz-> 61degree under load. good enough for me.

thanks again, will post final-final build soon

 

[flong]

well, you helped me convince myself anyway. I have no doubt i would be very happy with d-14 or silver arrow for that matter, but for whatever reason i decided not to go with a huge mega-cooler, superior though they may be. And I really don't think I will oc above 4.5 ghz. I'm convinced the h60 will handle that just fine. Actually, the hardwareheaven review above was nice enough to benchmark temps with a 2600k oced @ 4.4ghz-> 61degree under load. good enough for me.

thanks again, will post final-final build soon

Hey with two good fans on the H-60 I bet you will easily be able to OC to 4.5 - 5.0 Ghz . When you put great fans on the H-60 it appears to be a monster cooler - very close to the D-14. Just make sure that your fans are PWM controllable and that your motherboard has PWM functions. The stock fan on the H-60 is PWM controllable. Note that most Noctua fans are NOT PWM controllable. Here is a great article on selecting the best fans:

http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cooling/2009/09/28/what-s-the-best-case-fan/1

Be careful because that article is two years old and may be a little dated. There are several new technologies coming out with fans. Also make sure that you buy fans that are compatible with the H-60 as far as CFM. The stock fan is said to be pretty good and so you may just want to try it first.

Good Luck with your build Let us know how everything works out. I am especially interested in your first-hand experience with the H-60.

 

[flong]

Just when you thought it was safe to come out - wait for it, wait for it, boom! The Nocuta D14 is on sale at newegg ha, ha Here's the link:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608018&cm_sp=DailyDeal-_-35-608-018-_-Homepage

 

[caesparktom]

well, away for couple months, back last week and finally put together computer. unfortunately, it failed prime95 blend test(crashed) after about 7 minutes at stock speed. Temperatures at full load were ~ 55 C, so maybe memory problem? Are there any good diagnosis tools/guides out there OR can someone provide me with steps I need to take to locate problem. Truth is, I'm not sure how to proceed and ... freaking out a bit. -thanks

 

[flong]

well, away for couple months, back last week and finally put together computer. unfortunately, it failed prime95 blend test(crashed) after about 7 minutes at stock speed. Temperatures at full load were ~ 55 C, so maybe memory problem? Are there any good diagnosis tools/guides out there OR can someone provide me with steps I need to take to locate problem. Truth is, I'm not sure how to proceed and ... freaking out a bit. -thanks

Your temperature is fairly high - what CPU cooler are you running? Did you install the thermal compound (TIM) correctly? I have the D-14 and I am running at 46 C max under load (not Prime 95). However, even at 55 C you are still within the acceptable limits of your CPU.

Tom's Hardware has a sticky for diagnosing problems. The fact that it is working but then failing sounds like a possible overheating problem. Is your video card and motherboard cooling well? You can check the temperatures in the BIOS. If your video card is overheating it will shut down. Is there sufficient air flow around the card? Same with the mobo.

The sticky recommends that you recheck all connections. If you have a loose connection that could cause a problem. Check your PSU connections. Also remember that if your PSU is not stable that can cause problems - however I doubt that this is the problem from what you are describing. What PSU are you using?

Check the ABC things first and reseat your CPU cooler - that won't take long. Then move on to swapping out parts.

Let us know how your are doing.

 

[caesparktom]

here is final build:

MOBO: ASUS P8P67 WS REVOLUTION
CPU: i7 2600k
GPU: NVidia Quadro 4000
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL --- x2(16GB)
SSD: OCZ vertex 3 （120GB）
HDD: SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB ---x2(2TB)
DVD: Sony Optiarc AD-7240S
LCD: Dell UltraSharp U2410
Case: Corsair 650D
PSU: Corsair HX750
COOLER: Corsair H60

 

[caesparktom]

Your temperature is fairly high - what CPU cooler are you running? Did you install the thermal compound (TIM) correctly? I have the D-14 and I am running at 46 C max under load (not Prime 95). However, even at 55 C you are still within the acceptable limits of your CPU.

Tom's Hardware has a sticky for diagnosing problems. The fact that it is working but then failing sounds like a possible overheating problem. Is your video card and motherboard cooling well? You can check the temperatures in the BIOS. If your video card is overheating it will shut down. Is there sufficient air flow around the card? Same with the mobo.

The sticky recommends that you recheck all connections. If you have a loose connection that could cause a problem. Check your PSU connections. Also remember that if your PSU is not stable that can cause problems - however I doubt that this is the problem from what you are describing. What PSU are you using?

Check the ABC things first and reseat your CPU cooler - that won't take long. Then move on to swapping out parts.

Let us know how your are doing.

I'll will check and get back to you soon. went with h60 but using the single stock fan for now. thanks

 

[caesparktom]

Your temperature is fairly high - what CPU cooler are you running? Did you install the thermal compound (TIM) correctly? I have the D-14 and I am running at 46 C max under load (not Prime 95). However, even at 55 C you are still within the acceptable limits of your CPU.

seems like coretemp is not consistent with bios temp monitor. From bios I think you may be right. cpu is at 54C at idle, Motherboard at 42C. Strange because coretemp reads cpu temps at about 37C at idle. Well, the H60 has preapplied thermal compound (Shin-Etsu). Its possible i overtightened it because the bracing on the back of mb had tight threads so v. hard to tell how tight the waterblock actually was.

Tom's Hardware has a sticky for diagnosing problems. The fact that it is working but then failing sounds like a possible overheating problem. Is your video card and motherboard cooling well? You can check the temperatures in the BIOS. If your video card is overheating it will shut down. Is there sufficient air flow around the card? Same with the mobo.

can't find sticky. can you send link? How can i check temp of video card and if it causes shutdown is a log produced anywhere so i can confirm? re: airflow around card, I don't think that is a problem the thing is floating in middle of case.

The sticky recommends that you recheck all connections. If you have a loose connection that could cause a problem. Check your PSU connections. Also remember that if your PSU is not stable that can cause problems - however I doubt that this is the problem from what you are describing. What PSU are you using?

checked connections--they look fine

i guess I will reseat cooler. should i wipe off thermal compound and apply new?

 

[flong]

Your temperature is fairly high - what CPU cooler are you running? Did you install the thermal compound (TIM) correctly? I have the D-14 and I am running at 46 C max under load (not Prime 95). However, even at 55 C you are still within the acceptable limits of your CPU.

seems like coretemp is not consistent with bios temp monitor. From bios I think you may be right. cpu is at 54C at idle, Motherboard at 42C. Strange because coretemp reads cpu temps at about 37C at idle. Well, the H60 has preapplied thermal compound (Shin-Etsu). Its possible i overtightened it because the bracing on the back of mb had tight threads so v. hard to tell how tight the waterblock actually was.

Tom's Hardware has a sticky for diagnosing problems. The fact that it is working but then failing sounds like a possible overheating problem. Is your video card and motherboard cooling well? You can check the temperatures in the BIOS. If your video card is overheating it will shut down. Is there sufficient air flow around the card? Same with the mobo.

can't find sticky. can you send link? How can i check temp of video card and if it causes shutdown is a log produced anywhere so i can confirm? re: airflow around card, I don't think that is a problem the thing is floating in middle of case.

The sticky recommends that you recheck all connections. If you have a loose connection that could cause a problem. Check your PSU connections. Also remember that if your PSU is not stable that can cause problems - however I doubt that this is the problem from what you are describing. What PSU are you using?

checked connections--they look fine

i guess I will reseat cooler. should i wipe off thermal compound and apply new?

54C is pretty high but it is still within spec. Are you running the H60 fans on high? The TIM should NOT be the problem as nearly every review says that the Corsair TIM is very good. However, if your fans are on high you could try reapplying the TIM to see if it makes a difference. Note I don't want you to waste your time with "busy work" fixes which probably are not the problem.

Make sure that your video card and motherboard are getting enough air circulation from your case. Remember, the H60 only cools the CPU, not the mobo or the video card. Your video card could be the problem - do you have another that you can put in your computer to check if that stabilizes the system? What case are you using and how many fans does it have.

Also, your mobo could be the problem and you may have to change it out. In the forums that I have been reading about trouble-shooting builds, the mobo has been the problem most of the time.

This is an important question: are you still within the 30 day return period for your components? You may have to start swapping out components.

I will look up the Tom's Hardware sticky for you and get back to you.

 

[flong]

Here is one place on Tom's for new-build advice:

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/288241-31-faqs-build-advice-buyer-guides-troubleshooting

However, there may be another.

Also, did you change any settings in the BIOS that may have caused any problems like the voltage settings? I know you mentioned it was "stock."

 

[flong]

Your case is not the problem, I have the 650D and it cools VERY well. Air circulation is very good in the case. Make sure you have the fans on high. Is there any indication that the SSD could be the problem? Several SSDs (including OCZ) have had problems with stability and have caused BSOD cut outs.

Several people on line have been complaining about OCZ SSDs causing their computers have BSOD problems. This may be your problem. I know it takes some time but you could load your operating system onto one of the Samsung 1 TB drives to see if the computer stabilizes. I am assuming you are using the Vertex 3 as your boot drive.

The Corsair PSU is one of the very best made (if not the best) and provided you have no loose connections or wrong connections, it is not your problem. I would not waste time trouble-shooting it (a lot of people will say to change out the PSU - I don't think that this is the best advice in your case).

It really could be a video card, motherboard or SSD problem.

 

[caesparktom]

re-seated cooling block and prime95 still failed blend test and temps were unchanged at around 53C so not a seating issue. After failing blend test again, i ran sml fft p95 test and it ran for 1 hr without crashing or errors so i stopped and concluded it was a memory problem. I assumed auto detect settings in bios would correctly set the timing, frequency and voltage, but for some reason they were was off by a bit. After setting explicitly to manufacture specs it did much better: Prime95 ran 13 hours, produced no errors, but did still crash... No bsod just sudden crash. Here are some temp readings during first hour or so.

time | c1 | c2 | c3 | c4
5:00 | 48c | 51c | 55c | 52c
5:13 | 52c | 54c | 58c | 55c
6:50 | 53c | 53c | 57c | 55c
.
.
.
temps were pretty consistent for duration of test. Actually I turned A/C off for bit to see how temps reacted and core 1,2 and 3 went up to ~ 60c and core 3 to 64c. But, it IS pretty hot here in beijing without A/C. I should note that crash occurred in middle of night when A/C was off so temps were probable around 60-64c before crash. btw, should i be concerned that core3 is always about 4c hotter than other cores?


Anyways, Stock system w/no Overclock should have no trouble burning for 24+ hours right? Not sure what do now. Seems my system is just not quite as stable as it should be and not cooling quite as well as i would like. What do you suggest? I would like overclock a bit, but if my stock system is already marginal in terms of stability i don't know that i have any room to push it.

OPTIONS:
1. Improve stability by improving cooling. can put h60 in push pull config with some premium fans.

2. Of course i can keep trying to locate weak component if infact one exists, but it is way harder to troubleshoot now that system is more or less stable. Also, I don't have spare parts to swap out and systematically retest. and anyways, I suspect after 12 hours system won't fail consistently. i.e, if i run test again I don't think it would fail at the 13 hour mark reliably. Worse yet, I had to travel after ordering parts so 30 day return periods are up.

3. maybe I can further improve stability by explicitly setting all voltage frequency settings in bios. What is good practice? auto or manually set to manufacture specification???

thanks

 

[flong]

re-seated cooling block and prime95 still failed blend test and temps were unchanged at around 53C so not a seating issue. After failing blend test again, i ran sml fft p95 test and it ran for 1 hr without crashing or errors so i stopped and concluded it was a memory problem. I assumed auto detect settings in bios would correctly set the timing, frequency and voltage, but for some reason they were was off by a bit. After setting explicitly to manufacture specs it did much better: Prime95 ran 13 hours, produced no errors, but did still crash... No bsod just sudden crash. Here are some temp readings during first hour or so.

time | c1 | c2 | c3 | c4
5:00 | 48c | 51c | 55c | 52c
5:13 | 52c | 54c | 58c | 55c
6:50 | 53c | 53c | 57c | 55c
.
.
.
temps were pretty consistent for duration of test. Actually I turned A/C off for bit to see how temps reacted and core 1,2 and 3 went up to ~ 60c and core 3 to 64c. But, it IS pretty hot here in beijing without A/C. I should note that crash occurred in middle of night when A/C was off so temps were probable around 60-64c before crash. btw, should i be concerned that core3 is always about 4c hotter than other cores?


Anyways, Stock system w/no Overclock should have no trouble burning for 24+ hours right? Not sure what do now. Seems my system is just not quite as stable as it should be and not cooling quite as well as i would like. What do you suggest? I would like overclock a bit, but if my stock system is already marginal in terms of stability i don't know that i have any room to push it.

OPTIONS:
1. Improve stability by improving cooling. can put h60 in push pull config with some premium fans.

2. Of course i can keep trying to locate weak component if infact one exists, but it is way harder to troubleshoot now that system is more or less stable. Also, I don't have spare parts to swap out and systematically retest. and anyways, I suspect after 12 hours system won't fail consistently. i.e, if i run test again I don't think it would fail at the 13 hour mark reliably. Worse yet, I had to travel after ordering parts so 30 day return periods are up.

3. maybe I can further improve stability by explicitly setting all voltage frequency settings in bios. What is good practice? auto or manually set to manufacture specification???

thanks

Let me say I am really not an expert at trouble-shooting something like this. But that being said, why don't you change out your RAM and RMA it. It is likely covered by a lifetime warranty. Also, RAM is fairly cheap on NewEgg and so you could get another set of 2 x 4 GB 1866 for $60 - $75. It seems like your RAM is too temperamental. I had absolutely no problems with mine and did not even have to set it. It automatically went the DDR 1600 which is its spec. I get that you don't have extra parts to swap out, but this is one that has a lifetime warranty and it is fairly cheap.

My CPU runs at 38 - 45C under load (I have the Noctua NH-D14). My ambient temperature here in Arizona is 82F. The H60 is approximately equal to the D-14 with fans on high. Still, even with your temps at 60C, I don't think that they are high enough to cause a problem.

I had a video card that didn't get good air circulation with my I-7 920 and that would cause BSOD on a regular basis. The card would function fine for a few hours and then BANG, BSOD would appear. The card took a while to heat up to its shutdown temp. Make sure that your video card is not overheating.

Also, could your RAM be overheating? Just a thought. I only say this because your system seems to run fine and then shut down.

Also another thought. If the H60 is not getting the job done you should email Corsair and ask them to trade for the H100. The H100 is the only cooler to date that outperforms the D-14 that is not a custom water cooler (or noisy as a jet plane air cooler). Corsair would probably swap out the H60 - they are amazing. The H100 is expensive but it is the baddest cooler on the planet right now. Keep in mind that it can be noisy. Still the H60 should be getting the job done - it is a very good cooler.

I know I said this before, but make sure all of your connections are tight and you have everything connected correctly. For example, you need to connect PCI-E power connectors to your video card not regular power connectors. The HX 750 specifies which are PCI-E specific and which are not on the cables (they are blue in color). I would assume that the special PCI-E connectors are more stable and are rated especially for that use.

The Corsair 650D is a great case for cooling, but if your GPU is not getting good air circulation it could overheat. Because your system performs fine for a long time and then fails, this is something to look at. I don't think heat is a problem with your CPU or your motherboard. A hot video card or a bad video card WILL cause a BSOD regularly.

As I mentioned before, the motherboard is most often the problem with the system builds that I have seen that had problems. I am naturally suspicious of mobos now. Note I do not think that heat is the problem for the mobo. Make sure that your mobo is not defective. I would say it is the cause in about 70% of the cases I have been involved with. Changing out the mobo cured everything. I am a little prejudiced because my first mobo was bad in my build.

You might also just hand check which components are getting hot after 24 hours of use. For example, the D-14 fins stay cool to the touch in my system but the mobo gets warm. If one component is excessively hot after you do your check, that may be the problem.

To address your question about voltages, I would go with your motherboard's defaults as they are probably conservative and are set for your 2600K. I really don't know much about the correct voltages but I doubt that you resetting them would solve the issue.

It seems that something bigger and more obvious is the problem. Do you have an old video card you could substitute? If you could substitute any of the parts, it may help you trouble shoot it.

I am sorry that you are having problems, but it is great that the situation is better.

You also may want to start a new thread and get other posters who are more experience in trouble-shooting new builds involve.

Good luck, let me know how your are doing.