Question ATX version of Corsair's 2000D RGB Airflow, or similar suggestions?

[Anomaly_76]

I saw this Corsair 2000D RGB Airflow online tonight and love it. It might be perfect for a project I'm trying to put together, but I have ATX boards. Does Corsair or anyone make something like this for ATX board with front-mount USB / power / reset that can lay sideways to adapt to rack mount?

 

[Aeacus]

Essentially every HTPC PC case has front I/O at the front. And may of them support ATX MoBo as well.

Full list here (alphabetical order and ATX MoBo compatibility),
pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/case/#t=11&f=2&sort=name&page=1

 

[Anomaly_76]

Essentially every HTPC PC case has front I/O at the front. And may of them support ATX MoBo as well.

Full list here (alphabetical order and ATX MoBo compatibility),
pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/case/#t=11&f=2&sort=name&page=1

Actually, no. Many manufacturers put the I/O on the top or side and call it 'front' I/O. Calling it 'front' doesn't make it so. To clarify, I included a link to a picture of the case I refer to because it specifically has front-facing power switch / USB / audio.

 

[Aeacus]

Actually, no. Many manufacturers put the I/O on the top or side and call it 'front' I/O. Calling it 'front' doesn't make it so. To clarify, I included a link to a picture of the case I refer to because it specifically has front-facing power switch / USB / audio.

Looks like you even didn't look the cases i linked.

Random HTPC from the link i included;
Looks good enough for the rack mount, with front I/O at the front panel, just like Corsair 2000D RGB has it.

PCs have two I/O panels, front I/O and rear I/O.

Front I/O can be located anywhere near the front of the PC. Be it on the front panel (see image above), or at the side panel, but close to the front (e.g Cooler Master Q300L, specs) or at the top panel, but still close to the front panel (e.g Corsair 760T, specs).

Rear I/O is the external ports on the MoBo, usually located at the rear of the PC case.

 

[Anomaly_76]

Looks like you even didn't look the cases i linked.

Random HTPC from the link i included;
Looks good enough for the rack mount, with front I/O at the front panel, just like Corsair 2000D RGB has it.

PCs have two I/O panels, front I/O and rear I/O.

Front I/O can be located anywhere near the front of the PC. Be it on the front panel (see image above), or at the side panel, but close to the front (e.g Cooler Master Q300L, specs) or at the top panel, but still close to the front panel (e.g Corsair 760T, specs).

Rear I/O is the external ports on the MoBo, usually located at the rear of the PC case.

Odd, for some reason, I don't remember your original post saying HTPC, though it certainly might have. I apologize if I sounded snippy. Unfortunately, the search list posted yields no sales links. So far, I have yet to find any of these available anywhere. *shrugs* I do appreciate the effort, though.

The complication here (and I should have mentioned it) is that I am using a cabinet-style rack which is already half-full of audio equipment, with roughly 12 inches of vertical clearance below the audio equipment. Specifically, 17.75" W, 12.5" H, 19" D, rail to rail. There is also room to go with a vertical open-air test bench mount at the rear, as the audio equipment extends perhaps 6" at best, leaving a nice vertical channel for such a setup.

I also have RGB fans and LED strips I plan to use for temp monitoring and ambience, so I thought the 2000D Airflow RGB might do that well, except that it doesn't support ATX, so I was hoping there might be an ATX version with that same front-facing arrangement in about the same dimensions. I do have a 4000X RGB, but it is too large to fit in the available space, and its power / reset / I/O are on top, not ideal to turn sideways for rack-mount.

Ideally, I'd like to mount two systems (one for gaming, the other for recording / media / NAS), one of which is already in a 2U rack mount (3600X with IS-55), the other will require at least 4U due to a massive cooler (5900X with Scythe Mugen 5). If I have settle for only one, the taller of the two will be my choice. A true rackmount for the 5U system is ridiculously expensive - $400-$500 or more, and I just don't have the budget for that.

But because the cabinet has a mesh front door that will generally remain closed for dust protection, while the 2U is ready to go for rack mounting, the internal Blu-Ray drive position may not be ideal for everyday use, so I've been considering an external USB setup.

It's not so much that I need audio I/O on the front, but power / reset and USB for wireless keyboard / mouse and USB switcher would be ideal for convenience. Laying a typical case sideways would generally put those facing downward or to the side, out of reach in my cabinet. If push comes to shove, I guess I can go open-air test bench for both.

All that said, any other ideas?

 

[Aeacus]

Unfortunately, the search list posted yields no sales links.

Sure it does, just order it by price,
pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/case/#t=11&f=2&sort=price&page=1

At least 6 of them are available in USA.

Also, depending on your location, availability can be different. So, you have PC case name, it is just matter of searching it from your local stores. It isn't that hard, is it now?

 

[Anomaly_76]

Sure it does, just order it by price,
pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/case/#t=11&f=2&sort=price&page=1

At least 6 of them are available in USA.

Also, depending on your location, availability can be different. So, you have PC case name, it is just matter of searching it from your local stores. It isn't that hard, is it now?

My previous experience with PCPP has shown where you could get components as well as suggest them. I don't mind searching for a few on Google, etc., to find distributors, but you're talking 17 different cases, none of which PCPP provides availability for. Think about how long that takes when most of the pics available don't really show enough to give you an idea whether it's what you're looking for.

I've also done a lot of looking on Google in the past couple days, hence, I was hoping for a more direct recommendation.

However, in my search, I did run across the SilverStone FARA R1, which has front-facing I/O, enough room for my gaming system hardware, and if I can remove the feet and lay it sideways, should fit nicely on an existing shelf I have. Not a bad price either. Doesn't match the RackChoice 2U my NAS is in, but I guess you can't have everything. Looking at a few others before I order anything though.

 

[Aeacus]

but you're talking 17 different cases, none of which PCPP provides availability for.

Pcpp is convenience. Before pcpp existed, people still found and bought PC cases online, without much of a issue. So, the very same search aspects still remain today, if pcpp doesn't provide sales links. So, just put into search bar: "HTPC ATX" and you have plenty of options,
e.g amazon: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=htpc+atx&crid=1NIUB4NC725IJ&sprefix=htpc+atx,aps,336&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

Also, since choosing a PC case is personal choice, we can't tell you one specific PC case to go for. Since after all, you have to look it at daily basis and not us.

Direct suggestion:
SilverStone GD09, who's image i linked above, is rackmount compatible,
specs: https://www.silverstonetek.com/en/product/info/computer-chassis/GD09/
amazon: https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Computer-Micro-ATX-Motherboards/dp/B093Y3ZHQB/

Mugen 5 doesn't fit into GD09 but you don't have to close the top panel. Instead leave it off.
Then again, since your PCs are already inside the rackmount with meshed front door, do you really need to double up on the case? IMO, using open bench as slide in/out tray would be better. Far better airflow around components and not restricted by the case dimensions, instead only by the available space inside the rackmount.

 

[Anomaly_76]

Mugen 5 doesn't fit into GD09 but you don't have to close the top panel. Instead leave it off.
Then again, since your PCs are already inside the rackmount with meshed front door, do you really need to double up on the case? IMO, using open bench as slide in/out tray would be better. Far better airflow around components and not restricted by the case dimensions, instead only by the available space inside the rackmount.

I HAD actually thought about an open air arrangement mounted to appropriate-height shelves, to boost cooling. The cabinet's free-flowing diamond-pattern wire mesh on three sides warrants exterior dust filtration for the audio equipment anyway.

These are some open-air options I've looked at.

HaiHuang ATX Open-Air Chassis - $69.99

EDIY ATX Open-Air Chassis - $136.39

DalaiBukesi ATX Acrylic Open-Air Chassis - $39.00

HaiHuang ATX Vertical Open-Air Test Bench - $59.89

Alamengda EATX / ATX Open Air Chassis - $30.99

Obviously, I'd still need a second rack shelf if I wanted to mount dual systems, but I can almost buy any two of these for the price of most full cases. And as you mentioned, a full case isn't strictly necessary in this situation, as I still need dust filtration for the cabinet sides.

Which brings me to another thought.

I've found a seemingly nice option for dust filtration in the form of 24" x 48" PVC sheets, perforated with 1/8" holes on 3/16" center. The dimensions are a near perfect fit for the cabinet door (23" X 19") and side (22" x 13") grilles, however, 1/8" is 3.175 mm, and the scarce information I have on standard PC fan grilles indicate 1-1.5 mm hole sizes.

So while these would certainly stop dust better than the existing wire mesh, I wonder whether it would be the most effective solution. The environment isn't terribly dusty, but I have noticed my gaming rig would build up light dust over the course of a year, and it has built-in dust filters. Unfortunately, that case won't fit in this cabinet.

Here are some other dust solutions I found, though they would take a bit more work and might not look as good.

Black Air Filter Foam 10-60 PPM, 3-10mm thickness, 1M x 1M (eBay)

Speaker Grille Cloth 70" W (ordered by linear yard)

Speaker Grille Cloth 64" W (ordered by linear yard)

Speaker Grille Foam 19" x 31" x 3/8"

The ultimate goal is to minimize or completely stop dust intake, while being able to see the RGB for temperature monitoring. I think this can help with knowing when the filters need to be cleaned. Obviously that means thinner material would be better for that, but would it still stop the majority of dust? I would think so, but I thought I'd get your take on this as well.

 

[Aeacus]

I HAD actually thought about an open air arrangement mounted to appropriate-height shelves, to boost cooling. The cabinet's free-flowing diamond-pattern wire mesh on three sides warrants exterior dust filtration for the audio equipment anyway.

While open-air test bench does give you MoBo tray where to install MoBo, it usually doesn't give you front I/O panel (power, reset, USB ports).

In that sense, you could look towards Thermaltake open air PC cases,
full lineup: https://www.thermaltake.com/product...product_list_limit=30&product_list_order=name

E.g Core P3 TG,
specs: https://www.thermaltake.com/core-p3-tg.html
pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3yx2FT/thermaltake-core-p3-atx-mid-tower-case-ca-1g4-00m1wn-06
(More options of Tt Core open-air cases on pcpp if you search it.)

These Thermaltake cases are meant as a wall mount PC cases, but they do have stands for desk mount (upright) and for laying at the back as well. But nothing stops you to not use the TG side panel. But what they do offer, is front I/O at the front side of the PC case.

Obviously that means thinner material would be better for that, but would it still stop the majority of dust?

The foam and cloth filtering materials you linked above, are mainly for sound isolation. And while they can catch dust as well, they aren't see-through and cleaning them from the dust is very difficult, if not impossible. Since once dust particles are trapped in the multi-layer material, how you're supposed to get the dust out from it? And once the material clogs up, it will restrict or completely stop airflow through it.

Only option is with pressurized air, blowing from other side, to force the dust out again, but it takes a lot of work and need to have air compressor as well.
Or replace the entire filter material with new one. That can get costly and quick.

I'm personally using Demciflex filters for my PCs, which are single layer, see-through mesh filters and with such a fine holes, that it catches almost all dust, except the finest. This would be the closest one you could get, other than going with full HEPA filters.
Link: https://www.demcifilter.com/why-demciflex

In this video, starting from 2:33, there is comparison of normal dust filter that comes with PC case (in this case, PSU filter on Corsair 760T case) vs Demciflex mesh filter;

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m3LFD_M8Ev0


Since i also have Corsair 760T case, i bought the same filter kit for my PC as seen on that video.

Now, Demciflex makes custom filter kits for several PC cases, e.g like the filter kit for my 760T,
link: https://www.demcifilter.com/demciflex-magnetic-dust-filter-for-corsair-760t-dust-filter-kit

But it also makes standard sized ones, both rectangular and round,
lineup: https://www.demcifilter.com/products

And you can even order custom dimension filters from them.
Link: https://www.demcifilter.com/Custom-Fan-Filters

Since you need to cover the rackmount, i suggest that you contact Demciflex and order custom made filter for your usage.
Max single filter size can be 690mm x 510mm. Since the filter you need is bigger than this, consider breaking it up into 2 or more smaller filters. This will also make it easier to clean and maintain. But you should reach a good result with communicating with Demciflex.

Spoiler: Pics of my Demciflex filters (click here to view)

Skylake build (Corsair 760T) with all Demciflex filters:

Corsair 760T front;
Left - Demcifex filter + stock filter
Middle - stock filter
Right - no filter

Bottom filters after some usage time,
Left - PSU filter
Right - bottom intake filer

Both bottom filters removed. Easy to see dust buildup on filters.

Pic to show that light (LED) passes through Demciflex filters just fine;
Left - Skylake build (Corsair 760T V2 Black) and Demciflex filter on the front.
Middle - Haswell build (Corsair 750D Airflow Edition) and Demciflex filter on the front.
Right - AMD build, no custom filter for that one, but it's my 3rd build.

Now, the cleaning part of the filters, which is very easy.

1. Just rinse the filter on slow flowing cold water.
2. Gently tap with towel the filter dry, before installing it back.

Not the best video, but at 1:30 it showcases how to clean Demciflex filters;

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WcJYl8UdPjw

 

[Anomaly_76]

While open-air test bench does give you MoBo tray where to install MoBo, it usually doesn't give you front I/O panel (power, reset, USB ports).

In that sense, you could look towards Thermaltake *snip* Core P3 TG,
specs: https://www.thermaltake.com/core-p3-tg.html *snip*

*snip*

Spoiler: Pics of my Demciflex filters (click here to view)

Skylake build (Corsair 760T) with all Demciflex filters:

Corsair 760T front;
Left - Demcifex filter + stock filter
Middle - stock filter
Right - no filter

Bottom filters after some usage time,
Left - PSU filter
Right - bottom intake filer

Both bottom filters removed. Easy to see dust buildup on filters.

Pic to show that light (LED) passes through Demciflex filters just fine;
Left - Skylake build (Corsair 760T V2 Black) and Demciflex filter on the front.
Middle - Haswell build (Corsair 750D Airflow Edition) and Demciflex filter on the front.
Right - AMD build, no custom filter for that one, but it's my 3rd build.

Most impressive. I really appreciate the effort to show the light transmission and dust blockage. I'll be contacting Demciflex per your recommendation. This would greatly simplify things, as I could simply pull these once a month for cleaning, along with my window A/C filter.

Double-checking the dimensions, though, it appears that at 585 mm x 483 mm and 559 mm x 331 mm, my side panel openings are actually within their max dimensions of 690 mm x 510 mm. My opening measurements actually include the area that would be covered by the magnetic strip / gasket. So this might work out perfectly if my budget permits. I doubt they'll be much more than my initial plan, however, at probably $40 per side.

I am curious, though, what did your filter package cost? I am hoping a custom package would be based on a similar cost per area, as I'll need three at nearly max dimensions.

The Core P3 seems like a very doable option. Not much pricier than the Fara R1 I was considering, and I also like the idea of the clear panel, which has potential for customization the R1 would not lend itself to. For example, it could be lined with inward-facing LED strips to throw light down for an 'underglow' effect.

Side note: Prior to this thread, I showed my nephew what I was doing and alluded to possibly including my PC, RGB and backlighting, to which he responded, "That's gonna be SICK". I have a feeling going this direction with the LEDs going through the clear panel will really put it over the top to a proper old-school "bitchin'" status.

The P3 does push the limits of the space I have available. However, I guess if clearance warranted, I could forego a shelf and set this chassis on a rubber or foam sheet in the cabinet floor, to retain front panel control accessibility. Perhaps remove the 'feet' for extra vertical clearance if necessary.

It would likely limit me to one system, but it's not necessarily a deal-breaker. My gaming rig is a 5900X / RTX3060ti and has done double-duty before. I may have to sacrifice my ElGato 4K60+ though. Most say x8 vs x16 doesn't affect GPU performance much, but it does seem to make a difference on my rig, even at a 60 FPS limit (refresh rate of HiSense A6). I have some ideas, however, perhaps swapping my 1700 / GTX1650S rig to an APU with the 4K60+ on a smaller vertical rack.

 

[Aeacus]

I am curious, though, what did your filter package cost? I am hoping a custom package would be based on a similar cost per area, as I'll need three at nearly max dimensions.

The Demciflex Dust Filter Set for Corsair 760T, in black/black color (black mesh, black frame) costed me €61.10. Bought it Dec '16.
And Demciflex Dust Filter Set for Corsair 750D - black/black, costed me €56.00. Bought it July '17.

Back then, black mesh with black frame was the only color option. Now, there are also white mesh and plethora of color options for frames, especially when you order custom one.

Side note: Prior to this thread, I showed my nephew what I was doing and alluded to possibly including my PC, RGB and backlighting, to which he responded, "That's gonna be SICK". I have a feeling going this direction with the LEDs going through the clear panel will really put it over the top to old-school "bitchin'" status.

Well, as long as you throw unicorn puke at everything, you can make anything look "sick". Since after all, RGB, especially ARGB (addressable RGB) gives a lot of eyecandy. Everybody likes to see pretty colors moving/flashing.

But in the end of the day, you are looking at it. So, your call what "flare" you'll add to your own rig.

I've also added some "flare" to my PCs. Nothing over the top though. A bit of ARGB LED strips and some such fans, then solid LED color fans to match the build color theme and also custom sleeved cables, to match the build color theme.

Spoiler: Pic of my PCs (click here to view)

Left: Skylake build (my main PC)
Middle: Haswell build (missus'es PC)
Right: AMD build (my old main PC)

Full specs with more pics in my sig.

 

[Anomaly_76]

The Demciflex Dust Filter Set for Corsair 760T, in black/black color (black mesh, black frame) costed me €61.10. Bought it Dec '16.
And Demciflex Dust Filter Set for Corsair 750D - black/black, costed me €56.00. Bought it July '17.

Back then, black mesh with black frame was the only color option. Now, there are also white mesh and plethora of color options for frames, especially when you order custom one.


Well, as long as you throw unicorn puke at everything, you can make anything look "sick". Since after all, RGB, especially ARGB (addressable RGB) gives a lot of eyecandy. Everybody likes to see pretty colors moving/flashing.

But in the end of the day, you are looking at it. So, your call what "flare" you'll add to your own rig.

I've also added some "flare" to my PCs. Nothing over the top though. A bit of ARGB LED strips and some such fans, then solid LED color fans to match the build color theme and also custom sleeved cables, to match the build color theme.

Wait, didn't you know RGB gives everything a 500 Mhz and 100 fps boost when in unicorn puke mode? No, seriously, it's like pressing the little red button in the "Ford POS" in Men In Black.

But yeah, I don't really get into the whole swirling rainbows and flashing like a Christmas tree, but I've found that I do like a nice blue for some ambience with the lights off. I later got the idea to use temperature monitoring to progressively go blue / cyan / aqua / green to yellow as temperature approached the high 70s / low 80s. All three of my rigs have Corsair controllers (Node, Node Pro, Commander Core) set up this way.

The 1700 (original gaming rig) is in a 4000X RGB with included Lighting Node and six SP120s, the 3600X (NAS) has a Lighting Node Pro with 450mm strips, and the 5900X (current gaming rig) is currently in a Fractal Pop XL Air with a Commander Core XT and six LL120s, which I plan to transplant to the P3 if I go that route (waiting on the filter quote first).

I have to admit, the green mobo tray treatment is kinda cool. Nice builds.

One thing I'm curious about, though, as my rigs are air-cooled. I've seen no stock photos of the P3 (site page for reference) with front-facing fans, only a radiator laid flat against the motherboard tray. I don't see anything in the specs about it only being designed for liquid cooling, so there should be brackets for mounting fans facing the front, right? If not, perhaps a magnet mount or something like two of these would work?

 

[Aeacus]

Wait, didn't you know RGB gives everything a 500 Mhz and 100 fps boost when in unicorn puke mode? No, seriously, it's like pressing the little red button in the "Ford POS" in Men In Black.

Yeah, RGB gives the much needed FPS boost and makes the whole PC much faster.

but I've found that I do like a nice blue for some ambience with the lights off.

While (A)RGB can shine like a Christmas tree, one can also set singe- or dual-color, making nice ambience. In that sense, (A)RGB is versatile, much better than single-color LED that you can't change (or even turn off).

I later got the idea to use temperature monitoring to progressively go blue / cyan / aqua / green to yellow as temperature approached the high 70s / low 80s. All three of my rigs have Corsair controllers (Node, Node Pro, Commander Core) set up this way.

I too have Corsair peripherals and for some time, i made my KB LEDs into audio spectrogram, by using CEE (Corsair Effects Engine).

Essentially looks like this:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFvpqwbyn8g

One thing I'm curious about, though, as my rigs are air-cooled. I've seen no stock photos of the P3 with front-facing fans, only a radiator laid flat against the motherboard tray. I don't see anything in the specs about it only being designed for liquid cooling, so there should be brackets for mounting fans facing the front, right? If not, perhaps a magnet mount or something like two of these would work?

These brackets would work.

Or you can get 2nd revision of Core P3 TG, known as Core P3 TG Pro, which does have front fan mounts, among other improvements over vanilla Core P3 TG;
specs: https://www.thermaltake.com/core-p3-tg-pro.html
pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/f4...p3-tg-pro-atx-mid-tower-case-ca-1g4-00m1wn-09

 

[Anomaly_76]

Yeah, RGB gives the much needed FPS boost and makes the whole PC much faster.


While (A)RGB can shine like a Christmas tree, one can also set singe- or dual-color, making nice ambience. In that sense, (A)RGB is versatile, much better than single-color LED that you can't change (or even turn off).

These brackets would work.

Or you can get 2nd revision of Core P3 TG, known as Core P3 TG Pro, which does have front fan mounts, among other improvements over vanilla Core P3 TG;
specs: https://www.thermaltake.com/core-p3-tg-pro.html
pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/f4...p3-tg-pro-atx-mid-tower-case-ca-1g4-00m1wn-09

And yes, ARGB and iCUE is why I chose Corsair. More abilities to customize. That keyboard thing is pretty cool, but while I wouldn't mind a backlit wireless keyboard (if anyone could make one like I want), I don't get too wild with the effects. Until someone does, I'm happy with my MK420 and M570.

While I don't have any exact measurements to work with, but based on pixel-counting of the stock photos with and without the bottom feet (which would be lateral width on its side), I'm calculating approximately 17.6" W minimum for the P3, and 18.12" W minimum for the P3 Pro. That's assuming, of course, that the chassis can be assembled without them. For my planned orientation, rail-to-rail is 17.75", with a shelf it's 17.5", so even the P3 is going to be questionable. The P3 also has a bit less depth and is more likely to clear the rear cables.

Shame, I really like the P3 Pro setup. It IS tempting, but it seems to trade the P3's vertical height for more width, and unfortunately, it doesn't look like it's going to fit. Oh, well, I guess you can't have everything. Looks like P3 probably is going to be the best choice. Most of the other open-air setups I've looked at are smaller but would require remote switches that I really don't have anywhere to mount, and the better ones are pricier to boot.

I had a really cool idea for the P3 though -- inverting the shelf I have and maybe using the chassis post screws to suspend it from the shelf holes with LED strips shining through it. I also found this 360mm radiator bracket that should work for putting the fans vertical. I'm curious -- how are you posting pics? I can't seem to post pics on this forum. If I can figure out the secret, perhaps I can update later with the finished setup, assuming I can make it fit.

 

[Aeacus]

While I don't have any exact measurements to work with, but based on pixel-counting of the stock photos with and without the bottom feet (which would be lateral width on its side), I'm calculating approximately 17.6" W minimum for the P3, and 18.12" W minimum for the P3 Pro. That's assuming, of course, that the chassis can be assembled without them. For my planned orientation, rail-to-rail is 17.75", with a shelf it's 17.5", so even the P3 is going to be questionable. The P3 also has a bit less depth and is more likely to clear the rear cables.

Yes, Tt Core P-series cases comes in pieces, so you need to assemble them.

E.g Core P3 TG Pro review: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/thermaltake-core-p3-tg-pro/

I had a really cool idea for the P3 though -- inverting the shelf I have and maybe using the chassis post screws to suspend it from the shelf holes with LED strips shining through it. I also found this 360mm radiator bracket that should work for putting the fans vertical.

I found out that Tt also has modder page, where you can download 3D printing designs for all sorts of brackets.
Link: https://3dmakers.thermaltake.com/Download.aspx#coreP5

That is, if you have 3D printer. Or know somebody who can print it for you.

I'm curious -- how are you posting pics? I can't seem to post pics on this forum. If I can figure out the secret, perhaps I can update later with the finished setup, assuming I can make it fit.

1st, you need to make sure the image can be linked. For your personal images, upload them to the net, e.g www.imgur.com (all my build pics are uploaded there).

Then, to add an image to your reply, you can do it 2 ways;
1. Select "Insert image" from text toolbar above reply type area (hotkey Crtl + P). A pop-up is generated, where you can paste in the direct link to the image. Once you do that, image is generated in your reply.
2. Manual way, and this is what i do: put the direct link of an image between BBcode [img][/img] tags.

E.g [img]https://i.imgur.com/FIC5lP3.jpg[/img] would turn out:

This is my current KB. Corsair Strafe RGB with Cherry MX Silent switches.
I do have new KB as well, Corsair K100 RGB with Corsair OPX Switches but i haven't gotten around to unbox and install it.

And to make sure the image will display, use the Preview button on top-right corner to preview your reply, before posting.

When uploading to imgur, it gives you several options when viewing the image, as of how to share it. The BBcode option already comes with img tags, so, it's just matter of copy/pasting everything over.

 

[Anomaly_76]

The Demciflex Dust Filter Set for Corsair 760T, in black/black color (black mesh, black frame) costed me €61.10. Bought it Dec '16.
And Demciflex Dust Filter Set for Corsair 750D - black/black, costed me €56.00. Bought it July '17.

My quote came back today. $62.25 USD for the front panel, $38.97 USD each for the two side panels. Total of $ 140.19 before taxes and shipping. A bit pricier than expected, but considering I just spent $725 repairing and cleaning my mixer (which is probably worth about $500-$600), and I have probably $1000 total in audio equipment before putting my $1800 PC build in the mix, probably well worth it.

 

[Aeacus]

My quote came back today. $62.25 USD for the front panel, $38.97 USD each for the two side panels. Total of $ 140.19 before taxes and shipping. A bit pricier than expected

But when considering inflation from 2017, then currency conversion (Euro has a bit more buying power than USD), custom nature of your filters (essentially one-off, made only for you), far larger filter mesh area and the fact that the sets made specifically for PC cases are mass production (thus lower manufacturing cost for bulk products), i'd say you got yours even cheaper than i expected.

 

[Anomaly_76]

But when considering inflation from 2017, then currency conversion (Euro has a bit more buying power than USD), custom nature of your filters (essentially one-off, made only for you), far larger filter mesh area and the fact that the sets made specifically for PC cases are mass production (thus lower manufacturing cost for bulk products), i'd say you got yours even cheaper than i expected.

Another consideration. Even without inflation, really not that bad, considering it will keep dust out of my audio equipment and PC, a $4,400 total investment after looking at receipts. It adds up a lot quicker than most think.

 

[Anomaly_76]

@Aeacus

So the case came today... It fits, but it doesn't fit...
It does not fit between the rails, or actually within the shelf that I thought about setting it on.

However, I did figure out that I can invert the shelf, and if I tilt the base at a 45-degree angle, it sits quite nicely, with a small bit of room to spare in the corners. I have a couple options for vertically positioning the shelf, so I took some pics of a couple mock-ups. But as nothing ever wants to work for me the way others say it does for them, here are direct links to Google Drive images.

One gives a little more space at the bottom, not so much at the top.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vB3Sj7bNsFUZ-kaH5uoa3Cgg6ijC2A5w/view?usp=sharing

The other leaves a little more space at the top, not so much at the bottom.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1b0rmT85bLBViF8Xz1yA2eZ-VlzWInO6N/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JmazIajDT-_XjI6yVXfaHKcX0WexyHmq/view?usp=sharing

Either way, I'll pretty much have to mount the components to the chassis inside the cabinet. Thoughts..?

 

[Aeacus]

Either way, I'll pretty much have to mount the components to the chassis inside the cabinet. Thoughts..?

Depends on what components you need to install. And how difficult is to get the case into the rack.

E.g MoBo with CPU, RAM and M.2 drives are relatively flat, whereby you could mount those outside of the rack.
CPU cooler is most difficult, since if you have big-boy air cooler, it will be cramped to install it when rig is inside the rack. With AIO it's easier, but AIO has rad, that needs mounting as well. So, different kind of difficult.
GPU most likely is installed once build is in the rack. Since GPUs are beefy.
PSU is another ballpark of difficulty, especially connecting the power cables. I'd install PSU 1st. Then MoBo and then the rest.

Tt Core P3 came in parts, right? Do you need to install those round chrome poles? Which otherwise would hold up the TG side panel? Since if not, you'd have far more clearance putting the build into the rack, if you need to tilt it 45 degrees.

Btw, which side of the rack is wider, the front or the sides? Since i can't tell from those pics.
Looks like sides are wider, whereby you could slide the build in from the side, at horizontal level. Without the need to tilt it 45 degrees to fit it in from the front.

As far as how high the rack shelf is supposed to be, depends on you.
Do you need space under the build? If not, mount the rack shelf at it's lowest. Maybe not even screw it in, just let it sit on the floor like a small riser (so you can still access front I/O). This way, you'd have most space for the build itself and if you need to install components when build is within rack, you'd have most space as well.

But if you want to use the space below the build, i'd remove chrome poles and wouldn't install the TG panel at all (since it's not needed). And once build is complete, raise it as high as it goes. E.g GPU (or big-boy CPU cooler) almost touching the RANE AMP just above it. This way, you should get quite a bit of space below the build.

 

[Anomaly_76]

Depends on what components you need to install. And how difficult is to get the case into the rack.

E.g MoBo with CPU, RAM and M.2 drives are relatively flat, whereby you could mount those outside of the rack.
CPU cooler is most difficult, since if you have big-boy air cooler, it will be cramped to install it when rig is inside the rack. With AIO it's easier, but AIO has rad, that needs mounting as well. So, different kind of difficult.
GPU most likely is installed once build is in the rack. Since GPUs are beefy.
PSU is another ballpark of difficulty, especially connecting the power cables. I'd install PSU 1st. Then MoBo and then the rest.

Tt Core P3 came in parts, right? Do you need to install those round chrome poles? Which otherwise would hold up the TG side panel? Since if not, you'd have far more clearance putting the build into the rack, if you need to tilt it 45 degrees.

Btw, which side of the rack is wider, the front or the sides? Since i can't tell from those pics.
Looks like sides are wider, whereby you could slide the build in from the side, at horizontal level. Without the need to tilt it 45 degrees to fit it in from the front.

As far as how high the rack shelf is supposed to be, depends on you.
Do you need space under the build? If not, mount the rack shelf at it's lowest. Maybe not even screw it in, just let it sit on the floor like a small riser (so you can still access front I/O). This way, you'd have most space for the build itself and if you need to install components when build is within rack, you'd have most space as well.

But if you want to use the space below the build, i'd remove chrome poles and wouldn't install the TG panel at all (since it's not needed). And once build is complete, raise it as high as it goes. E.g GPU (or big-boy CPU cooler) almost touching the RANE AMP just above it. This way, you should get quite a bit of space below the build.

Yes, parts. Poles are not required unless using the tempered glass. Width and length of base without the bottom feet are both exactly 18.5 inches. I can do either position referenced, just contemplating aesthetics. I don't necessarily need more space above or below, AFAIK. Though I had thought about inserting a switched power bay to allow individual power control.

My Scythe Mugen 5 cooler is 154.5 mm tall. My Asus KO RTX3060ti is 275mm long, 135 mm tall and 2.7 slot at 2.13" wide. My two 3.5" HDDs can mount inside the base, and there is room for three 2.5"s also.

I'm thinking mount the drives, run cables, mount PSU, test fit the board for standoffs, angle the base in there to install the motherboard with everything but GPU, then mount GPU.

 

[Aeacus]

Height wise, the lower it sits - the more dust Mugen would suck up. So, might want to install it higher.

I'm thinking mount the drives, run cables, mount PSU, test fit the board for standoffs, angle the base in there to install the motherboard with everything but GPU, then mount GPU.

Hardest part would be installing power cables. And plugging cables into MoBo back I/O and GPU, since they would be at the back of the rack. Unsure how much free space you have there.

 

[Anomaly_76]

Height wise, the lower it sits - the more dust Mugen would suck up. So, might want to install it higher.


Hardest part would be installing power cables. And plugging cables into MoBo back I/O and GPU, since they would be at the back of the rack. Unsure how much free space you have there.

Yeah, dust is a consideration mounting low, but if the DEMCI filters are really that good, I don't think it will be much of an issue. And while I thought about rearranging things to mount it higher, I think heat could be more of an issue.

Not the hardest chassis I've built in, but not the easiest either. Looked great, though I'm waiting on extension cables for LED strips in the cabinet roof supports to complete the look.

With the chassis corners firmly against the front supports, at 18.5" x 18.5", space at the rear isn't actually that bad. Though I should probably get some 90-degree adapters for HDMI and audio for good measure.

Unfortunately, after a full day transferring components and getting it up and running, followed by 48-72 hours of running perfectly, it refused to power up a day or so ago. Unbelievable. Needless to say, it was a veritable replay of the Pulp Fiction "Say 'What?' AGAIN!" scene, with me as Jules, and the machine as Brett.

Troubleshooting indicates the Asus board (replaced under warranty two months ago for an audio dropout issue that persisted going forward and is now out of warranty) is dead. No debug LEDs, no power anywhere. But while the 5900X was showing good thermals, pulling the cooler, there appears to be less thermal paste than when I installed it. So now I'm not sure if the board or CPU failed.

Same power supply is now powering a Gigabyte B550 Aorus Master with a 3600X and the same other components. While I'm a little nervous to try the 5900X on the Aorus, I ordered some Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut last night, as I've used it on that board before. Hopefully I won't be creating another mushroom cloud. I'd rather have the 5900X's speed, and I want definitive proof that the board failed before really trashing Asus, because I fully intend to.

For now, it's sitting on top of the cabinet until the filters get here (estimated day after tomorrow), and I confirm the 5900X is good.

 

[Aeacus]

Did look good, yes.

As for MoBo being toast, only way would be testing with 2nd, known to work CPU and preferably with 1x stick of RAM. If still no life, it would be safe to say that MoBo is toast.

0 life usually means power delivery issue. Either PSU or MoBo VRMs. Wouldn't hurt testing with 2nd PSU, despite original PSU powering 2nd build just fine.