Question Best motherboard for preventing overheating (and computer shutdown)

mujmuj

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After experiencing computer shutdowns (either complete power outage or sudden bluescreen errors), which I partly suspect overheating as the cause, I am thinking perhaps I need to get a motherboard which prevents overheating.

But I am a complete novice.

I will buy i9-13900K. So the motherboard needs to work well with this.

This (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BHXQH5PJ?tag=systoaellc-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1) says it has "Optimized VRM Thermals: Massive heatsinks integrated with the I/O cover, joined by an L-shaped heatpipe, and connected to the power stages with high-conductivity thermal pads"

Is "VRM thermals", "massive heatsink", "heatpipe", "thermal pads" what I should be looking for?

What is the best motherboard for preventing overheating?

Also, I have been using "ASROCK Z690 Phantom Gaming 4/D5". Does this have a heatsink? Heatpipe? VRM thermals? Thermal pads? Where can I check that?
 
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Lutfij

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After experiencing computer shutdowns (either complete power outage or sudden bluescreen errors), which I partly suspect overheating as the cause, I am thinking perhaps I need to get a motherboard which prevents overheating.
Can you please parse the specs to your build like so:
CPU:
Motherboard:
Ram:
SSD/HDD:
GPU:
PSU:
Chassis:
OS:

include your ambient room air temps as well.

I have been using "ASROCK Z690 Phantom Gaming 4/D5"
The Phantom range of boards are usually the lower tier boards but a step above being bottom of the barrel. No it doesn't have a heatpipe, since the two heatsinks are not connected with a pipe between them. The Phantom boards also tend to be made with lackluster VRM componentry. The heatsinks are also smaller when compared to the Asus board you've linked above. You will need a thermal pad under every heatsink that's going to sit above a VRM power delivery componentry on the motherboard otherwise they can blow up when pushed beyond their specs(heat). The quality of the thermal pad would be lackluster, ofc, to meet the price of the board.
 
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mujmuj

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After experiencing computer shutdowns (either complete power outage or sudden bluescreen errors), which I partly suspect overheating as the cause, I am thinking perhaps I need to get a motherboard which prevents overheating.
Can you please parse the specs to your build like so:
CPU:
Motherboard:
Ram:
SSD/HDD:
GPU:
PSU:
Chassis:
OS:

include your ambient room air temps as well.

I have been using "ASROCK Z690 Phantom Gaming 4/D5"
The Phantom range of boards are usually the lower tier boards but a step above being bottom of the barrel. No it doesn't have a heatpipe, since the two heatsinks are not connected with a pipe between them. The Phantom boards also tend to be made with lackluster VRM componentry. The heatsinks are also smaller when compared to the Asus board you've linked above. You will need a thermal pad under every heatsink that's going to sit above a VRM power delivery componentry on the motherboard otherwise they can blow up when pushed beyond their specs(heat). The quality of the thermal pad would be lackluster, ofc, to meet the price of the board.
My room temperature is around 23°C (73°F)

This is what I currently have.
  • Crucial P5 2TB PCIe M.2
  • GIGABYTE Radeon RX 6500 XT GAMING OC 4G(GV-R65XTGAMING OC-4GD)
  • ASRock Z690 Phantom Gaming 4/D5 INTEL
  • FOUR Crucial DDR5 4800_32G (total 128GB)
  • 12th Gen Intel(R) Core(TM) i9-12900KF
  • Cougar Gex 1050 power supply
  • Scythe Ninja CPU Cooler
  • Cooler Master MasterBox CM694 Case
My story about computer shutdowns and sudden bluescreens can be found here .

  1. When I had 64GB of RAM: No problem
  2. When I added different versions of 64GB of RAM: Shutdown and bluescreens
  3. Later read that all RAMs on one motherboard need to be of the same version/brand. So I removed the new 64GB
  4. But it still has shutdowns and bluescreen problem.
  5. I added thermal paste. Perhaps too much.
  6. Now the computer works.
  7. Two weeks later I added the same version/brand of additional 64GB (Crucial 32G each): Again shutdowns and bluescreen. Now the computer doesn't even boot up.
  8. I suspect two things:
(1) this time I pasted too much thermal paste and it spilled over to outside the CPU. Maybe could it be causing the whole problem?
(2) maybe this low-quality motherboard simply can't handle 128GB of RAM? So could it be that this problem would have happened even if the thermal paste didn't spill over?
 
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mujmuj

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Why_Me

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With regard to thermal, this motherboard advertises these features: 8-Layer 2X Copper PCB, NanoCarbon Baseplate, 12 @/mK Thermal Pad, 8mm Mega-Heatpipe, Find-Array III with NanoCarbon Coating, M.2 Thermal Guard III

Does that mean this has better ability to maintain low temperature (therefore stability) than this?
They're about dead even in that regard.

20+1+2 105A power stages
https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/Z790-AORUS-MASTER-rev-10#kf

24+1 105A power stages
 
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mujmuj

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btw I wouldn't use anything less than a 360mm AIO with that cpu and make sure your case has good airflow.
What does "AIO" stand for? Is this a product name or a name for a spec unit like "RPM"? I can't find this spec on the product description.

If AIO stands for a name of a unit, for this one for example, what is AIO? 120?

What is absolutely the best (regardless of price) CPU cooler for i9-13900K and i9-13900KS? Now that I have this computer shutdown problem, I will switch to whatever is absolutely the best.
 

mujmuj

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Thanks! What about 420 versions like this under the same brand? Does this make the motherboard and CPU even cooler? And is there anything (from any brand) higher than 420? I want to get the best one.

I also found this list of "best CPU coolers" published by Tom's Hardware. But the number 1 on the list is so cheap. Is this the right list for someone who's looking for the best CPU cooler regardless of price?
 
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mujmuj

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btw I wouldn't use anything less than a 360mm AIO with that cpu and make sure your case has good airflow.
Also you mentioned case here. Usually, do larger cases have better airflow so as to cool down the temperature of CPU (given the same number of fans etc)? I can buy a very large case (with multiple fans).
 

Karadjgne

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The Asus ROG Extreme is for Extreme overclocking, not that it runs any 'cooler' than the other ROG boards or their equivalents, it's basically just a little more robust in design with more user controls in bios, which you'd never use. For you, that's like buying a race car to go grocery shopping.

Gigabyte Auros Xtreme, ASRock Taichi, MSI Meg Ace or Asus ROG Hero will do plenty good.

Absolute best cooling for a 13900k/s is a full custom liquid cooling loop with at least a 360mm/420mm x 60mm radiator with appropriate fans in push/pull, just for the cpu. Best commercially available is a 420mm AIO/CLC liquid cooler. You do not want anything lower than a good 360mm AIO/CLC as anything lesser and the cooler simply doesn't have the cooling capacity to chill a 300w cpu.

You miss the point of thermal paste. Entirely. The surface of the cpu is metal, and not perfectly flat or smooth. The surface of the cooler is metal, and not perfectly flat or smooth. So thermal paste is used to fill in those tiny gaps.

So all you need is a very thin and even layer that covers the cpu fully. Do not keep adding paste, you do nothing but make a mess.
 
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mujmuj

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The Asus ROG Extreme is for Extreme overclocking, not that it runs any 'cooler' than the other ROG boards or their equivalents, it's basically just a little more robust in design with more user controls in bios, which you'd never use. For you, that's like buying a race car to go grocery shopping.

Gigabyte Auros Xtreme, ASRock Taichi, MSI Meg Ace or Asus ROG Hero will do plenty good.

Absolute best cooling for a 13900k/s is a full custom liquid cooling loop with at least a 360mm/420mm x 60mm radiator with appropriate fans in push/pull, just for the cpu. Best commercially available is a 420mm AIO/CLC liquid cooler. You do not want anything lower than a good 360mm AIO/CLC as anything lesser and the cooler simply doesn't have the cooling capacity to chill a 300w cpu.

You miss the point of thermal paste. Entirely. The surface of the cpu is metal, and not perfectly flat or smooth. The surface of the cooler is metal, and not perfectly flat or smooth. So thermal paste is used to fill in those tiny gaps.

So all you need is a very thin and even layer that covers the cpu fully. Do not keep adding paste, you do nothing but make a mess.

Thanks! You wrote "Best commercially available is a 420mm AIO/CLC liquid cooler." You mean this one? Is this the only kind of thing that you described?
 
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mujmuj

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They're about dead even in that regard.

20+1+2 105A power stages
https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/Z790-AORUS-MASTER-rev-10#kf

24+1 105A power stages
I don't quite understand this reply from you.

When you wrote "They're about dead even in that regard", who is "they", and "dead" meaning it's bad? You mean some of the motherboard you suggested is actually bad?
 

Karadjgne

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Also you mentioned case here. Usually, do larger cases have better airflow so as to cool down the temperature of CPU (given the same number of fans etc)? I can buy a very large case (with multiple fans).
No. Actually mATX have the best airflow. Very big fans, very small internal volume. For instance, if you have a small case that's 25Litres, and a 120mm fan that moves 50 cubic feet of air in a minute, vrs a large 80Litre case with the same 120mm fan, the small case will exchange its heated air for cold air in about 10 seconds, vrs the large case taking over 2 minutes.

Airflow isn't just about the number of fans, it's the balance between the number of fans, how they are placed, what they do, where the air goes and where it doesn't.
View: https://youtu.be/ICMKUSff_6I

Perfect example. 1 fan in the wrong direction totally destroyed the airflow for this cpu, could have added 20 fans, would have been the same result.
 
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mujmuj

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Multiple fans, mesh front such as this case for an example.

This is my current case. This case has two front fans. But you can't see it from this (or any) angle because there is a structure (seemingly for non-m2-harddrives and internal CD Rom, which I don't need). Should I remove this structure from the case to create a better air flow to cool down my motherboard and CPU more effectively?

 
I have no idea if it is designed to be removable. If yes, it appears to be pointless for your use...no hard drives in those mounts, no DVD drives.

I'd remove that structure if it is unused, now and in the future, and does not affect the strength and integrity of the case.

I'd try to avoid anything that unnecessarily impedes airflow.

But it may not make any appreciable difference in temperatures. You'd have to experiment.
 
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mujmuj

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No. Actually mATX have the best airflow. Very big fans, very small internal volume. For instance, if you have a small case that's 25Litres, and a 120mm fan that moves 50 cubic feet of air in a minute, vrs a large 80Litre case with the same 120mm fan, the small case will exchange its heated air for cold air in about 10 seconds, vrs the large case taking over 2 minutes.

Airflow isn't just about the number of fans, it's the balance between the number of fans, how they are placed, what they do, where the air goes and where it doesn't.
View: https://youtu.be/ICMKUSff_6I

Perfect example. 1 fan in the wrong direction totally destroyed the airflow for this cpu, could have added 20 fans, would have been the same result.
Thanks. This is really an important point.

This erroneous fan direction shown in the youtube video has air cooling, right? If I buy AIO cooling instead, perhaps I can automatically avoid this problem?

This is my current CPU cooler fans and backside case fan. Are they in the consistent directions?

 
I'd want all 3 of those fans blowing in the same direction.

Right to left in your top picture. Air directed toward that honeycomb grill on the back of the case.

You should be able to confirm that by direct observation using your eyes and perhaps a piece of tissue or some smoke or a wet fingertip.
 
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Karadjgne

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Ugh. That's a Ninja5, if I'm not mistaken. It's actually a decent cooler 'if' you change the stick fans. The Ninja claim to fame is its quietness, but in order to achieve that, it uses really low rpm fabs that don't do a whole lot.

Swap that rear exhaust fan for the front cpu fan and you'll probably see a @ 5°C drop in cpu temp.
 
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mujmuj

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Ugh. That's a Ninja5, if I'm not mistaken. It's actually a decent cooler 'if' you change the stick fans. The Ninja claim to fame is its quietness, but in order to achieve that, it uses really low rpm fabs that don't do a whole lot.

Swap that rear exhaust fan for the front cpu fan and you'll probably see a @ 5°C drop in cpu temp.
Yes it's Ninja Scythe. You got it right. I value cooling much more than quietness. So perhaps I will replace this with another cooler anyways. But I still want to experiment with what you suggested. What do you mean "Swap that rear exhaust fan for the front cpu fan"?

In this picture, "rear exhaust fan" is C, and "front cpu fan" is A? You mean to swap C and A?

 

mujmuj

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Ugh. That's a Ninja5, if I'm not mistaken. It's actually a decent cooler 'if' you change the stick fans. The Ninja claim to fame is its quietness, but in order to achieve that, it uses really low rpm fabs that don't do a whole lot.

Swap that rear exhaust fan for the front cpu fan and you'll probably see a @ 5°C drop in cpu temp.
And you wrote "Best commercially available is a 420mm AIO/CLC liquid cooler."

Based on your advice, I am comparing "ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II -420" and "CORSAIR iCUE H170i ELITE CAPELLIX". The latter one has 2000rpm maximum, and the former has 1700rpm maximum, so perhaps the latter one keeps my CPU cooler?
 

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