Best Water Coolant?

[xtream_ocer_intel_nvidia]

Hey Guys, I was just wandering what the best coolant is for a water cooled system. Also, can you use distilled water as a coolant, I heard somewhare that you can

 

[rubix_1011]

Distilled water is probably your best bet and the choice of most watercoolers. You should add some additive to kill the crawlies, but always use distilled.

 

[xtream_ocer_intel_nvidia]

what addative do you recommend for killing all the algea and other nasties?

 

[Conumdrum]

Distilled water and a few drops of PHN Nuke. Or a Ians Silver KillCoil.

Both sold at Petras.

 

[xtream_ocer_intel_nvidia]

Petra's is great but I live in England

 

[xtream_ocer_intel_nvidia]

will pool chemicals work or are they too strong?

 

[Shadow703793]

^DON'T. If you can't get any of the said above (PT Nuke/KillCoils) the next best option is to just get some Anti-Freeze and mix it with water. Usually 10-20% anti-freeze in the loop is enough. This usually kills the bacteria/algae.

 

[xtream_ocer_intel_nvidia]

what about primochill Utopia?

 

[Conumdrum]

Sure, it's not a dye etc, I say it's okay. Bit pricy, but okay. No Anti-Freeze is needed, please.

 

[xtream_ocer_intel_nvidia]

well I cant buy anything from Petra's, so is there anything on watercooling uk or The Cooling shop? So will anti-freeze work? Or can I use a drop of algae killing solution?

 

[Shadow703793]

^If using algae killing solution like PT Nuke then Anti Freeze is absolutely not needed. Note: Anti Freeze should be used only as a last resort.

 

[ouch1]

On the following link you can buy PT Nuke which should do the job for preventing algae
http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=433

-ouch1

 

[Guest]

This is what you are looking for:

Fluid XP Nano-Fluid Liquid Cooling Fluid

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=382

 

[Conumdrum]

Moonblood, no he's not. Thats overpriced snake oil. You should know better. Maybe you should learn about WC or WC yourself before you suggest such stuff. Ack...

Ouch found a UK supplier, PT nuke is an older version but just as good. Only 1-2 drops from a bottle that has 50 drops, very cost effective, lasts forever.

 

[Guest]

1) Actually Fluid XP Nano-Fluid Liquid is equal in performance BUT it will make your components last longer. Look it up in multiple reviews.

2) My rig is air cooled BUT I have two friends who use the stuff and they love it. Try acting less high and mighty little man.

 

[xtream_ocer_intel_nvidia]

wait I have a pool, can't I just dilute a bit of biocide?

 

[Conumdrum]

1) Actually Fluid XP Nano-Fluid Liquid is equal in performance BUT it will make your components last longer. Look it up in multiple reviews.

2) My rig is air cooled BUT I have two friends who use the stuff and they love it. Try acting less high and mighty little man.

Not high and mighty. Posting wrong information isn't helpful and I'll strongly contradict anyone who does. I stand by saying you should watercool before you attempt to post info. Multiple reviews done in questionable ways by sites who have a comfy relationship with the seller etc. Seen it a lot. Seen the reviews when this stuff was first being researched by distributed samples to memebers on another forum. Had solid tests done by members and there was no, none, nada improvement in temps. These members happen to be world class modders and overclockers. Making your parts last longer is a watercoolers myth. If you run quality parts in a loop the parts will not corrode or go bad. If fact, 99% of documented odd things hapening in loops is due to the snake oils, dyes, and other odd additives people add to loops.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/Forums/showthread.php?t=219009
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=205442&highlight=nano&page=4

May I ask what watercooling setups they have? If Zalman, TT, Koolance or other oddities I can see what's wrong. If a quality loop then I wouldn't know why they need snake oil.

 

[Conumdrum]

OP: Well pools don't use these types of biocide. Your talking clorine or bromide? Or the stuff you add a few ounces to the pool every now and then? It might work, when I had my pool I did use a copper based anti-algea liquid. Too much will cause copper growths on the brass and copper, not enough will allow uglies to grow. Sure, try it, you can figure out the proper ditultions. Some use a few drops on non-alcohol based iodine, or stuff from a fish tank store.

Use what you want, we gave you the best on the market to use, used by more peeps than you can imagine. 2.25 pounds isn't much for peace of mind. You'll be using Deionized water in the UK unless you want to pay 25 pounds for a 5 gallon jug of distilled from a pharmacy house or some crazy price like that.

 

[Guest]

Not high and mighty. Posting wrong information isn't helpful and I'll strongly contradict anyone who does. I stand by saying you should watercool before you attempt to post info. Multiple reviews done in questionable ways by sites who have a comfy relationship with the seller etc. Seen it a lot. Seen the reviews when this stuff was first being researched by distributed samples to memebers on another forum. Had solid tests done by members and there was no, none, nada improvement in temps. These members happen to be world class modders and overclockers. Making your parts last longer is a watercoolers myth. If you run quality parts in a loop the parts will not corrode or go bad. If fact, 99% of documented odd things hapening in loops is due to the snake oils, dyes, and other odd additives people add to loops.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/Forums/showthread.php?t=219009
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=205442&highlight=nano&page=4

May I ask what watercooling setups they have? If Zalman, TT, Koolance or other oddities I can see what's wrong. If a quality loop then I wouldn't know why they need snake oil.

1) Did you even read my post? I said equal performance BUT that the stuff keeps your equipment running smoothly and protects it against use or corrosion.

2) Even if my rig is not water cooled I have built 3 of them, two of which were for friends. Stop playing the high and mighty "expert" on water cooling. You are not the king of water cooling. Just some anonymous high and mighty jacka$$ who thinks he knows more than anyone else.

3) The water cooling setups are not crappy. Only the best parts were used: tygon, swiftech, danger den, xspc.

4) I do not believe you have seen the reviews. I have. You just say you have seen biased reviews YET offer no proof. It is an easy and deceptive criticism you have put forth. Just slander against the product but using buzz words like snake oil. You are snake oil because you prop yourself up as an expert yet you only have opinions.

 

[APieceOfCheese]

If I were to use fluid xp nano to fill my system, I would have to spend over $100 a year on fluid because my system takes more than a quart to fill and I flush and fill with new coolant more than once a year. So, moon, you can spend a 100 bucks on the special crap to fill your loop, we'll spend 50 cents on a gallon of DI water from the supermarket.

+1 for the distilled/DI plus biocide. If you really need something uv reactive, I've had no issues with swiftech's hydrx concentrate aside from the uv reaction dissipating after a few months or so.

 

[croc]

If I were to use fluid xp nano to fill my system, I would have to spend over $100 a year on fluid because my system takes more than a quart to fill and I flush and fill with new coolant more than once a year. So, moon, you can spend a 100 bucks on the special crap to fill your loop, we'll spend 50 cents on a gallon of DI water from the supermarket.

+1 for the distilled/DI plus biocide. If you really need something uv reactive, I've had no issues with swiftech's hydrx concentrate aside from the uv reaction dissipating after a few months or so.

I think you'll find that what you get from your grocery is done by osmotic process. One should be able to get true distilled water from the local pharmacy. If one has a clean system, then pure distilled water should not grow any algae at all. If in doubt, then a few crystals of cupric sulfate should do the trick.

 

[xtream_ocer_intel_nvidia]

Ok, so let me get this staight. DI water + biocide/PT nuke + Orange uv Die (already bought)

OR

Some Primochill or some $hit like that + PT Nuke

 

[Mikey12]

Fluid xp is also NON-CONDUCTABLE. I use it in my rig and if there is any type of spill it will just evaporate causing no harm. I definately reccommend it

 

[Conumdrum]

Fluid XP is NOT non-conductable.

Primochill doesn't need a biocide. And I wouldn't add just any dye to it, it might mix funny.

All I can say is distilled and PT Nuke is the simplist, cheapest, most least problem prone liquid you can use. It's also the best in removing heat and just as non-conductable as any marketed liquid out there.

Ever seen this clip?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-yT7cvfo3o&feature=related
Or this?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MWHFLbZEewU&feature=channel

Very well respected petra himslf ran these simple tests.

 

[Conumdrum]

I think you'll find that what you get from your grocery is done by osmotic process. One should be able to get true distilled water from the local pharmacy. If one has a clean system, then pure distilled water should not grow any algae at all. If in doubt, then a few crystals of cupric sulfate should do the trick.

Distilled water sold at stores is distilled. Just like the stuff at a pharmacy. My distilled is bought at a pharmancy that's on the shelf next to the drinking water jugs. If it says distilled it's distilled. There are purer waters used in labs for clean room tests etc. Distilled is done by vaporizing the water. It's not the same process as osmosis, thats an RO method. You can't sell RO water as distilled, thats illegal marketing.

As soon as you open a bottle of even $500 gallon pure water in a non-clean room environment, it's not pure anymore. Dust, microbes, chemicals in the air will diffuse into the water.

The reason we run distilled, de-ionized, or 'pure' water is all the hard water chemicals and minerals are removed. This prevents buildup on internal parts. We don't want that hard caked stuff you can usually find on a faucet etc after years of use.

Life is a funny thing in the world of microbes. You put one in a water solution with heat (nice n warm in a WC loop) and some light and it will, as nature has proven, grow. So you need some sort of biocide that is compatible with the closed WC loop. 99% of the aftermarket fluids like Fluid-XP have biocide in them. Could be one drop of stuff, maybe 10. Distilled water doesn't, so we add something.

Cupric sulfate might do the trick. It's the exact same stuff used in Petras PT-Nuke. It's also known as CuSO 4, Copper (II) Sulfate

Whats funny is I have seen results of someone putting the whole tiny bottle of Petras PT-Nuke into a loop (reading instructions is a good thing, supposed to be 1-2 drops) and 3 months later the copper CPU block was clogged with copper growths leached onto the copper channels in the block. So too much of a good thing is bad.