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Hello All, I just finished the legendary Presario R3000 stri down and solder scenario, successfully in that i felt the process went well and i had no pieces left over. However after reconstruction I still have no power input.
Just a little flashing light!
My Presario had a new power board fitted by teleplan at the cost of £200 in the U.K a year ago, the problem was not sorted.
Has anybody got any ideas what i can try next?
Spares or repair!
What a waste.
I payed good money for this piece of crap and its hardly ever worked ever!
Many thanks to all the input from everybody. It was very helpful in the stripping down of My Presario.
Miazmo
Just a little flashing light!
My Presario had a new power board fitted by teleplan at the cost of £200 in the U.K a year ago, the problem was not sorted.
Has anybody got any ideas what i can try next?
Spares or repair!
What a waste.
I payed good money for this piece of crap and its hardly ever worked ever!
Many thanks to all the input from everybody. It was very helpful in the stripping down of My Presario.
Miazmo
I wonder what a new power board is, at £200 I guess it is a new motherboard? I've never seen a R3000 powerboard, there's a motherboard in there, nothing else (okay, a little audio board).
You do get a flashing light on the front, so there is contact. Have you tried without the battery in?
Do you have fans running on power-up, anything on screen?
jrentschler
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- Aug 25, 2007
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Dear Que,
I am most impressed by your informativeness on this matter. I have an AMD-variant R3000. The jack had become loose, and I attempted a re-soldering of the jack (with a generic DIY 25w thin-tipped soldering iron, some desoldering braid and standard rosin solder). Now, it will power up, POST, and run fine off of battery power, but when I attempt to power it up on AC with no battery in, it will power up, and the CPU will become quite hot and the fans will run, but it does not POST on AC power, nor does it power the up the LCD or its backlight while on AC. I haven't tested to an external monitor, but I frankly don't trust that it is producing output while on AC. I do not own a media cable to test the circuitry from another angle. I am too afraid at present to try to see the outcome of running it on AC with the battery connected. I am wondering whether I may have damaged a resistor, capacitor, SMD, etc in the process of re-soldering the jack, or whether the jack may not be making contact with the solder traces on the motherboard (the bottom traces, especially the center ground, appear to be slightly burnt, but there is still a decent amount of the metal contact/trace left). I've looked for the 100mfd AA8 capacitors, and I've located 6 of the 7 you mention this board has, but I do not see any damage to them from their outward appearance. Might I have caused something to blow internally from heat damage, or do you think I need a new jack ? If you think it is an SMD or resistor, I would appreciate which you think might be implicated. If you think the traces might be bad or useless now, I am wondering if I could use electrical wire and connect a new jack to the traces on the leftmost/rightmost contacts of media connector, and perhaps hotglue the jack in place upside down.
I am most impressed by your informativeness on this matter. I have an AMD-variant R3000. The jack had become loose, and I attempted a re-soldering of the jack (with a generic DIY 25w thin-tipped soldering iron, some desoldering braid and standard rosin solder). Now, it will power up, POST, and run fine off of battery power, but when I attempt to power it up on AC with no battery in, it will power up, and the CPU will become quite hot and the fans will run, but it does not POST on AC power, nor does it power the up the LCD or its backlight while on AC. I haven't tested to an external monitor, but I frankly don't trust that it is producing output while on AC. I do not own a media cable to test the circuitry from another angle. I am too afraid at present to try to see the outcome of running it on AC with the battery connected. I am wondering whether I may have damaged a resistor, capacitor, SMD, etc in the process of re-soldering the jack, or whether the jack may not be making contact with the solder traces on the motherboard (the bottom traces, especially the center ground, appear to be slightly burnt, but there is still a decent amount of the metal contact/trace left). I've looked for the 100mfd AA8 capacitors, and I've located 6 of the 7 you mention this board has, but I do not see any damage to them from their outward appearance. Might I have caused something to blow internally from heat damage, or do you think I need a new jack ? If you think it is an SMD or resistor, I would appreciate which you think might be implicated. If you think the traces might be bad or useless now, I am wondering if I could use electrical wire and connect a new jack to the traces on the leftmost/rightmost contacts of media connector, and perhaps hotglue the jack in place upside down.
jrentschler, careful with soldering, if you heat it up too much the solder might creep into the hole the pin sticks through, and hit one of the other 5 layers this mainboard has. If your contact is marginal, the power running over it might heat it up too much, may be you brown traces are coming from that, but it can also be the stuff they put in the core of some soldering material to make it stick better, a sort of acid that cleans the contacts that need to be joined.
If your laptop is powered off, battery in, and the adapter connected, is it charging the battery?
If your laptop is powered off, battery in, and the adapter connected, is it charging the battery?
Can't seem to edit my own message so:
The amd board only needs to be soldered on one side of the board. Is your adapter a 120 or 150 watts? You could increase the power to the board, by removing the drives, a second memory stick, even press the switch that turns off the screen when the lid is closed, and see if it gets past post then. Would give a clue.
The amd board only needs to be soldered on one side of the board. Is your adapter a 120 or 150 watts? You could increase the power to the board, by removing the drives, a second memory stick, even press the switch that turns off the screen when the lid is closed, and see if it gets past post then. Would give a clue.
Hello All
After finding this page when all i did was stick compaq presario r3000 into a google search a few days ago i thought i would write and tell you my story!!!
I would first of all like to thank every single person that has contributed to this webpage. The amount of replys and visitors really shows a true reflection of the power of the internet!!
I have the same above mentioned laptop which i bought in april 2005 not knowing too much about laptops at this time i figured that buying one in the expensive range i shouldnt have many problems with it. Well how wrong was i hey!!
My power issue first started after only owning it for approx 18mths. Given that laptops are meant to be portable and that mine has never even left the house i was quite reluctant to think that i had not taken proper care of which resulting in any damage being caused which led to the failure. I eventually after seeking the opinion of a few mates took my laptop to a guy who said he believed he knew the problem and that it was quite "common" so £80 later my laptop is repaired.
This was around march this year and the guy gave me a 3 mth warrenty. Low and behold a week or so ago the problem starts again and i was begrudging the thought of having to spend the same amount of money again to get my laptop repaired. I even considered creating some sort of accident in order to use my home insurance instead.
Then i decieded i was going to look up my laptop to find maybe a manufacturer contact in order to make a complaint or something and that is when i came across this website.
The information in this thread is invaluable and given the fact i dont own a solder iron i decieded to go for the other option that was suggested and purchase a all in one media cable from ebay which cost me £45 next day delivery. I was scared that it wouldnt work but bit the bullet anyway!
So here I am, the item came today and plugged in and worked straight away. You dont know how pleased i was to see the light come on!!
The first thing i did was come on here so that i could share my story and let those who asked questions about the cable know that it works perfectly, and the added bonus is that those dvds ive now downloaded and cant get on a dvd disc ( i told u i know nothing) can now be played straight onto the tv.... killed two birds with one stone hey!!
I know its not fixed the problem but after having it fixed once already i didnt have much confidence in it lasting too long anyway. i hope this fix lasts a lot longer!!
Any person wishing to know anything more about the cable please give me a shout and anyone wanting to pursue a claim with HP/Compaq count me in, its cost me over £100 to get this far!!!!!!
Kerry
After finding this page when all i did was stick compaq presario r3000 into a google search a few days ago i thought i would write and tell you my story!!!
I would first of all like to thank every single person that has contributed to this webpage. The amount of replys and visitors really shows a true reflection of the power of the internet!!
I have the same above mentioned laptop which i bought in april 2005 not knowing too much about laptops at this time i figured that buying one in the expensive range i shouldnt have many problems with it. Well how wrong was i hey!!
My power issue first started after only owning it for approx 18mths. Given that laptops are meant to be portable and that mine has never even left the house i was quite reluctant to think that i had not taken proper care of which resulting in any damage being caused which led to the failure. I eventually after seeking the opinion of a few mates took my laptop to a guy who said he believed he knew the problem and that it was quite "common" so £80 later my laptop is repaired.
This was around march this year and the guy gave me a 3 mth warrenty. Low and behold a week or so ago the problem starts again and i was begrudging the thought of having to spend the same amount of money again to get my laptop repaired. I even considered creating some sort of accident in order to use my home insurance instead.
Then i decieded i was going to look up my laptop to find maybe a manufacturer contact in order to make a complaint or something and that is when i came across this website.
The information in this thread is invaluable and given the fact i dont own a solder iron i decieded to go for the other option that was suggested and purchase a all in one media cable from ebay which cost me £45 next day delivery. I was scared that it wouldnt work but bit the bullet anyway!
So here I am, the item came today and plugged in and worked straight away. You dont know how pleased i was to see the light come on!!
The first thing i did was come on here so that i could share my story and let those who asked questions about the cable know that it works perfectly, and the added bonus is that those dvds ive now downloaded and cant get on a dvd disc ( i told u i know nothing) can now be played straight onto the tv.... killed two birds with one stone hey!!
I know its not fixed the problem but after having it fixed once already i didnt have much confidence in it lasting too long anyway. i hope this fix lasts a lot longer!!
Any person wishing to know anything more about the cable please give me a shout and anyone wanting to pursue a claim with HP/Compaq count me in, its cost me over £100 to get this far!!!!!!
Kerry
Thanks for all who have posted their experiences and like everyone else, I wish I had found it sooner. Special thanks to rshcults and que for your detailed instructions.
Armed w/printout of the HP Maintenance manual provided by earlier link(s) and pictures by rschults I tore my daughter's unusable laptop completely apart. Found the 4 pins (3grounds & 1 center), and resoldered. They did not have enough solder flowed to cover the copper traces much less to provide current for laptop and battery charging.
For all who are buying soldering irons @ nearest home improvement center or Radio Shack, I hope they are selling zero voltage tips or grounded tip irons. Years ago that was not the case and caused the ruin of many a chip. I would encourage all to also use soldering flux......yes I know the solder is supposed to have some in it, but it is never enough. I used to do a lot of component level repair and found that to be the biggest falacy. Flux the tip when hot & wipe off w/damp rag, then put fresh solder on it.
Anyway, I cleaned up the board w/little alcohol and put an ohmmeter on pins. I also touched up the audio pins mentioned by rschultz, however they did not seem to need it. It took me longer to go down to electronics store to buy the anti-static wrist strap and work pad than to do the repair. Yes, static will ruin your board; personal experience and sometimes it will not manifest itself until device is put to full use. It has been years since I did any component level repair, so it was an enjoyable afternoon.
I noted after repair that my battery would hang @ 3% charge for 20min, suddenly go to 100%. I pulled AC plug and it ran for 20min & died, bad battery; probably from not being adequately charged and repeatedly drained completely. Again, thanks to all for your input, and shame on HP/Compaq.
Armed w/printout of the HP Maintenance manual provided by earlier link(s) and pictures by rschults I tore my daughter's unusable laptop completely apart. Found the 4 pins (3grounds & 1 center), and resoldered. They did not have enough solder flowed to cover the copper traces much less to provide current for laptop and battery charging.
For all who are buying soldering irons @ nearest home improvement center or Radio Shack, I hope they are selling zero voltage tips or grounded tip irons. Years ago that was not the case and caused the ruin of many a chip. I would encourage all to also use soldering flux......yes I know the solder is supposed to have some in it, but it is never enough. I used to do a lot of component level repair and found that to be the biggest falacy. Flux the tip when hot & wipe off w/damp rag, then put fresh solder on it.
Anyway, I cleaned up the board w/little alcohol and put an ohmmeter on pins. I also touched up the audio pins mentioned by rschultz, however they did not seem to need it. It took me longer to go down to electronics store to buy the anti-static wrist strap and work pad than to do the repair. Yes, static will ruin your board; personal experience and sometimes it will not manifest itself until device is put to full use. It has been years since I did any component level repair, so it was an enjoyable afternoon.
I noted after repair that my battery would hang @ 3% charge for 20min, suddenly go to 100%. I pulled AC plug and it ran for 20min & died, bad battery; probably from not being adequately charged and repeatedly drained completely. Again, thanks to all for your input, and shame on HP/Compaq.
OK - what can I say that has has not already been said. I have been dealing with the power socket issue for close to three years. My solution was to find a position that held the power light on and hold it in place with my right hand... then with my left I would wrap the power cord around the bottom of the screen like a noose to hold the plug in place. A couple of weeks ago I thought I finally lost the battle. No matter what I did the laptop would not stay on. So I did a search and was lucky enough to find this forum.
I dont even remember everything I tried but once I was able to get the power light to stay on again - my screen went blank. This was after I had taken the laptop apart and cleaned the heat sink, reset the memory chip was able to test the screen by virtue of removing the plug to the lcd and connecting the laptop to a vga - while one of these seemed to have helped get the computer power to work the screen was still black. Then...I read the exchange between Que and Ideallypc where they discussed the pentium processor lock. Well - in retrospect - this is where novices fail - I was under the impression after taking the laptop apart that the pentium chip was attached to the heat sink. With this thought still clear in my mind I went back in and locked the socket. I gingerly place my 'married" heat sink and processor back and screwed it down into a 'locked' socket. Still I get a black screen . So I decided to purchase a motherboard for $150 plus shipping. Now I focused on all the assembly and disassembly notes. Only after the revelation - in my own mind - that the heat sink and processor are actually 2 different components did I rationalize the socket lock issue and was able to get the processor correctly seated in the socket and truly locked. BUT because of my major flub thinking the components were married, one of the pins on the processor broke off. I still put it all together and was able to get the laptop to boot to windows - all my data NOT lost !!!! Two issues : my processor is missing a pin and my keyboard mouse is not working. I believe the mouse issue is because the liliputian clip that holds the serial chord for the mouse went missing - so I taped it in place. (anyone know where I might get this clip ?). All software seems to run ok except when I have to go to an internet site that requires me to submit information like a credit card or my userid and password. In any case I will try and replace the processor - would love any ideas for this - maybe someone has a legacy processor they would be willing to give up or sell for my R3360US. Thanks to everyone for all your help and information - glad to say I am 95% of the way back to a fully functional (ex my battery) laptop
I dont even remember everything I tried but once I was able to get the power light to stay on again - my screen went blank. This was after I had taken the laptop apart and cleaned the heat sink, reset the memory chip was able to test the screen by virtue of removing the plug to the lcd and connecting the laptop to a vga - while one of these seemed to have helped get the computer power to work the screen was still black. Then...I read the exchange between Que and Ideallypc where they discussed the pentium processor lock. Well - in retrospect - this is where novices fail - I was under the impression after taking the laptop apart that the pentium chip was attached to the heat sink. With this thought still clear in my mind I went back in and locked the socket. I gingerly place my 'married" heat sink and processor back and screwed it down into a 'locked' socket. Still I get a black screen . So I decided to purchase a motherboard for $150 plus shipping. Now I focused on all the assembly and disassembly notes. Only after the revelation - in my own mind - that the heat sink and processor are actually 2 different components did I rationalize the socket lock issue and was able to get the processor correctly seated in the socket and truly locked. BUT because of my major flub thinking the components were married, one of the pins on the processor broke off. I still put it all together and was able to get the laptop to boot to windows - all my data NOT lost !!!! Two issues : my processor is missing a pin and my keyboard mouse is not working. I believe the mouse issue is because the liliputian clip that holds the serial chord for the mouse went missing - so I taped it in place. (anyone know where I might get this clip ?). All software seems to run ok except when I have to go to an internet site that requires me to submit information like a credit card or my userid and password. In any case I will try and replace the processor - would love any ideas for this - maybe someone has a legacy processor they would be willing to give up or sell for my R3360US. Thanks to everyone for all your help and information - glad to say I am 95% of the way back to a fully functional (ex my battery) laptop
Hi, really an adventure into hardware land, not? Tried all your keyboard keys writing a textfile? You might have some not responding or giving wrong output, can be a not right aligned flatcable in the slot. About the latch (don't know the English word) that secures the keypad's cable, take it off the other board, or use one of the not used connectors on the board? They are much bigger, but are better to secure with tape or glue than just the cable.
The keypad/mouse/touch pad is another port than the usb, it is mentioned as a ps2 mouse in device manager if I remember right. If the broken processor pin could be the cause why the keypad is not working (don't think so), then a working usb mouse would not indicate it is not the issue, because usb and ps2 have no relation hardware wise.
If your processor is running fine, no failing instruction sets in gaming, I wouldn't bother replacing it, it might just have been a ground pin. Don't know much about processor sockets, mobiles are preferred when battery life is of importance.
The keypad/mouse/touch pad is another port than the usb, it is mentioned as a ps2 mouse in device manager if I remember right. If the broken processor pin could be the cause why the keypad is not working (don't think so), then a working usb mouse would not indicate it is not the issue, because usb and ps2 have no relation hardware wise.
If your processor is running fine, no failing instruction sets in gaming, I wouldn't bother replacing it, it might just have been a ground pin. Don't know much about processor sockets, mobiles are preferred when battery life is of importance.
senoritafrita
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- Nov 23, 2006
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Hey everyone,
I've had my computer fixed twice now with the cold solder and everything and its happening again. I just want the damn thing fixed and want to purchase the docking station only I wanted to be sure that I wouldn't have any issues anymore if I spent the $150. Has anyone bought the docking station and had a long period of success? Please let me know I can spend the $150 but can't buy a whole new computer so any help at all would be great!
I've had my computer fixed twice now with the cold solder and everything and its happening again. I just want the damn thing fixed and want to purchase the docking station only I wanted to be sure that I wouldn't have any issues anymore if I spent the $150. Has anyone bought the docking station and had a long period of success? Please let me know I can spend the $150 but can't buy a whole new computer so any help at all would be great!
senoritafrita
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- Nov 23, 2006
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Ok! Thank you! I'll probably be purchasing the media cable today! Thanks so much for getting back to me!
Diablothehunter
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- Sep 23, 2007
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Hi, I have been trying to understand this forum to help me with my R3000 notebook. It has the little lightning bolt light on the front and the cord doesn't seem loose but It will not turn on at all. what do I need to do, any tips will be appreciated!!!!
Diablothehunter
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- Sep 23, 2007
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No fans no lcd light, power jack seems good. Could a bad battery cause for absolutely nothing to work even if the system is plugged in?
Don't think so, remove the battery and you are sure, because it should work off ac only. Maybe the on/off switch went bad, check the video/disassembly topic and take off the strip covering it. Remove your memory stick(s) (one under keyboard, other at the bottom behind the small single screw plate) and reseat them. If you have 2 sticks, test per stick. Once you have the strip covering the on/off switch removed, also disconnect the lcd cable, and see if it will boot without it connected.
Diablothehunter
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- Sep 23, 2007
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Hey Que, Thanks for the guidance, and luckily while I was waiting for the video to download I came across a tip. This could be bogus because I dont know how it would work but it worked for me. The tip was resetting the power, it basically said "with the laptop screen open hold the power button and screen switch in place at the same time"????? wierd ever hear of anything like this?
Diablothehunter
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- Sep 23, 2007
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http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c00212209.pdf was the manual I found, and yeah it works im stoked. Thanks again man!!!
Dusty_Roses
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- Sep 30, 2007
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Hello Que,
You seem to be the one here with solutions.. So I will ask you, without going into ALL the details. I too have the same power issues with r3000. After 6 months of bending, pulling, stretching, rapping (and cursing) the cord around my computer to get it to stay connected, I purchased another power supply cord, it does the same thing, however, it now will only charged my battery and not my computer. Computer will run until my battery dies. I still have my original power supply cord, I had to remove the tip and cold solder everything back together because of bending it so much. It also only charges my battery. After 2 estimates, being told the mother needed replaced to fix the problem and a charge of $365.00, one said just to solder, the cost would be $289.00, glad I found this site first.
Someone asked you about the HPDL516A solution. What is that?
Has anyone contacted HP about this? What is they view on their problem with upset customers?
You seem to be the one here with solutions.. So I will ask you, without going into ALL the details. I too have the same power issues with r3000. After 6 months of bending, pulling, stretching, rapping (and cursing) the cord around my computer to get it to stay connected, I purchased another power supply cord, it does the same thing, however, it now will only charged my battery and not my computer. Computer will run until my battery dies. I still have my original power supply cord, I had to remove the tip and cold solder everything back together because of bending it so much. It also only charges my battery. After 2 estimates, being told the mother needed replaced to fix the problem and a charge of $365.00, one said just to solder, the cost would be $289.00, glad I found this site first.
Someone asked you about the HPDL516A solution. What is that?
Has anyone contacted HP about this? What is they view on their problem with upset customers?
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