Compaq Presario R3000 power cord issue

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Okay, an update....

I applied the thermal paste and tried running disk clean up and same problem. The fans click on loudly and after a few seconds it shuts the computer down. But when I try the internet and the game spider now issues. I worte down the following when playing spider:

CPU Core Temp: 42.0 to 41.8 cel.
CPU Freq and Voltage ID: 4.0 and 1.1000
CPU Load and OS Load: 4% to 27% and 2% to 20%
Core Clock and Throttle: 798 and 798

I have no idea what I have done wrong.

Tinamarie
 

CPU Core Temp: 42.0 to 41.8 cel. -----------that's okay, lower than my amd3000
CPU Freq and Voltage ID: 4.0 and 1.1000---------multiplier and frequency throttled down, that's where the low temp comes from
CPU Load and OS Load: 4% to 27% and 2% to 20% -----ok
Core Clock and Throttle: 798 and 798----------at full speed (when opening an application) this should become 1800
Your cpu temperature is okay, no worries there.
Rightclick "my computer" -- properties--advanced--startup and recovery- and uncheck the box "automatically reboot".
You might suffer from memory errors, download and run memtest86+ to check that.
Try running the disk cleaner in windows' safe mode, might make a difference.
 
Hello Que.
Well, first let me say congratulations on all these good deads. You are really helping us big time.
Second, my problem...I also have a R3000 and also have a power issue. But I'm not sure if it's like everyone's else, so there it goes...
R3000 with new power adapter and drained battery. Everything plugged, the lightingbolt light goes on for few seconds and then off making a little "tic" sound by where the cord is plugged, however, i'm not sure if it is right at the plug. Then, it goes back on for another few seconds and off just flashing like that forever. If I use my other 4600 battery fully charged from my other HP laptop, it works fine for a couple hours on battery power without AC. And if I plug the AC without battery, nothing flashes (cuz there's no battery) but it turns on for about 2 secs and off just like when its drained battery is in there. Now, I don't know if it is something I can change or if it is something a tech has to do. There is a place at ebay that offers fixing it for $150.00 but I don't know if I need to spend that much. Plz help.
 
Oi, I thought you discovered the skeleton.
So it is working with the new battery, but is it also working with the new battery in and on AC, and charging the new battery?
Not working from the AC only, is weird, probably some capacitors going bad.
I bought a secondhand board off ebay for $160 shipped, because I did not wanted to take the risk of having a badly repaired board, that would soon get other problems, or spend a small fortune shipping it, to hear it can not be fixed.
 
hi again Que. No skeletons around here so far lol. (besides the laptop)
Well, I tried the AC on with the new battery on and basically The short on the ac forces the laptop to shut down 2 to 3 secs after I press power. Just like always when it's plugged to AC. So a new board it is... jezz... Thanks for that info m8. Great chatting with you!
 
Well, if you want the laptop to work, board replacement or repair, you will have to take it apart anyhow, why not do so and see if you can fix it yourself? If it is the power-in jack's central pin only, it can be soldered back to the board. You can check the most left and right contacts (copper ones) of the docking port, and see if you can get the power adapter's voltage on those contacts. Wiggle the dc-in jack to see if it fluctuates indicating a bad contact. If it is a real short, like the layers of the board touching at the center pin connection, then there's little hope, besides using an XC1000 all-in-one media cable, that connects the powerbrick to the laptop through the docking port.
You could simulate one (the $100+ cable) by routing the power from the adapter through these contacts, to see if it would work for you. (if not, internal parts are failing, like capacitors, shottkey voltage barriers. brrrrr!)
PS, when your good battery is drained, it will not charge in the laptop, even when the laptop is off?
 
Check out this site about a class action suit covering the power connection problem being discussed.

http://www.hpnotebooksettlement.com/

I found this the day after I experienced the dreaded power connection failure. I was successful in taking mine apart and soldering it. But I did have 5 screws left over after I got it back together.

I've decided to get a new laptop and then send my R3000 in for repair.
 
Hi Que and others,

Can you please clarify for me - if I but hpxc1000 power cord, do I also have to buy a powerblock? Rather my question is will I be able to connect this power cord from the outlet to the docking port on my darn laptop. Thanks so much.
 
compaq-presario-r3000-befor.jpg

Before
compaq-presario-r3000-after.jpg

After
I own a laptop repair business in Tucson. This may be of interest to show what actually happens to the solder connections. We recently had a Compaq Presario R3000 in for a power jack repair. We took some before and after photos of the solder connections for the power jack. In the “before” photo, the black lines ringing the solder connections is where the solder joint cracked and broke the electrical connection. No rings are evident after a new power jack was soldered on.
 
Thanks to this forum and others, I have successfully restored power with voltage at the jack pins, and the docking port. I was so happy when it was back together, lightning bolt came on, then *bam*, it went back out. I have power when connected to AC, but not when running battery only. I am assuming it is a battery issue, but I haven't tested the pins in the battery compartment for voltage. Will do that tonight.

Ok, so one problem may be solved, but now, I get the following message:

"Disk read error Press control+alt+delete to restart"

I did, and nothing changes, same message. I am hoping this is a simple fix and that my HD isn't blown, perhaps a cable connection or something simple? Any input from this group would be greatly appreciated!
 
If you took the thing apart, maybe the harddisk isn't back in it's place right, or the little strip that is on the harddisk's ide pins is missing? No cd still in the cd drive? You might have killed the disk, or damaged the software table on it. Boot from a bootdisk, or better some dos disk, and see if fdisk sees it. If so exit fdisk back to the dos prompt, and type fdisk/mbr , then push enter. Reboot and see if it helped.
 
I have an Compaq R3000 with similar power issues.

The fun is not spinning out of control, the CPU doesn't seem to be overheating but it shuts off when running on both battery and charger or battery alone. It works fine when using battery charger alone but the minute I plug in the battery it shuts off.

When I plug in the charger with the battery installed, the power light comes on and stays on for 5 seconds, then goes off. So, for what ever reason the battery cannot be charged by the power supply and the computer cannot run on battery (it shuts off).

What could be the problem? I have purchased a new power cord and that's exhibiting the same problem so I've ruled that out. I don't want to spend a fortune on battery if that will also not fix the problem.

Any Ideas?
 
Can be a bad battery, bad loading circuitry of the mainboard, failing power supply.
Do you have a 120 or a 135 watts power brick? Going from 120 to 135 made the difference for some, though I would look around for another battery first, or a way of testing the one that's in.
 
How old is that battery, what was battery life before it refused to work?
Cheap, on ebay, from china/hongkong. And easily resold there if it ain't the fix?
 
hi all , newbie member with similar power cord problems, tried replacing the ac adaptor with a new one , it worked for a couple of days then stopped , have taken the laptop apart and resoldered as per instructions given on previous messages , still no joy , however here is where my problem is slightly different
i can use my dads ac adaptor for a compaq 2500 to run on ac power , i have to take the battery out for it to work and if i want to charge the battery i have to close the machine down , the specs ac adaptor on my dads is 18.5 volts ,current 4.9 amps power 90 watts, the specs on ac adaptor for my compaq r3000 18.5volts,current 6.9 amps power 120 watts, i have brought my adaptor to a pc shop and had it tested and have been told that it is working , so that it leads me to believe that it is the jack on the adaptor that goes into the back of the laptop that is faulty???any thoughts or suggestions ???the machine is 4 years old works fine with my dads adaptor and have never had any other poblems with , at this stage it is getting a little frustrating to say the least
anyone out there who could offer possible solutions apart form smacking the thing with a hammer !!

thanks in advance
 
I've had the same problems.
I will be taking my laptop apart tonight. I've never done anything like this before. Hope it all goes well.
Read through this entire forum and thoroughly enjoyed myself.
Que is the man.
 


So I took it apart. Had a few troubles with some screws being stuck. And the videos really helped (http://h20181.www2.hp.com/plmcontent/NACSC/SML/results.htm?SID=384511&MEID=F2DAF231-84E4-4AE7-BE71-BB1CA8A20D6A)

I absolutely sucked at the soldering process and was scared that I had ruined things.
I couldn't get a good shiny solder, and kept retrying. The circuit board was becoming a darker green where I was applying the heat and I think it melted a bit maybe. I really should have taken a before and after picture.
But it back together again. Half broke off the LED cable from the circuit board when putting it back together.
(See the system board video, at 2:50 to see which part I mean)
At the time I wasn't sure what it was I had broken. And was really worried. Thought it was for my touchpad, but that was the ZIF cable next to it.
Put it back together, 2 extra small screws, and a few I mixed around.
Started it up off battery just to see if it was broken. It booted up, touchpad worked, noticed the LED lights weren't on. Put two and two together.
Breaking that LED receptor for the cable isn't a big deal right? I taped it, guess that didnt work.

So then plugged in the power source, booted it up, was running off battery.
Frustrated, and at midnight, I went to bed.
Up at 5:30 for work, turned it on to get a better idea. It does the flicker from power source to battery as before.
And putting pressure on the cord does keep the laptop connected to power source. Same problem as before.

Am going to order a power jack online. Take it apart again when I get the new power jack. And this time take my motherboard and the power jack to a shop where they know how to use a soldering iron hahaha.

Down but not out,
Geoff
 
This was posted to another person who was having power problems. I thought it might help here.

There's a simple and cheap solution you might try before spending a lot of money. And that solution is...
1) Unplug the power supply from the wall and let it power down.
2) Unplug it from the laptop.
3) Remove the battery from the laptop.
4) Holding the power supply cord(the end that plugs into the laptop) look inside the plug and you should see 2 small metal strips. Take a small screw driver and "Gently" pry them up, take care not to over do it as they have to go back over the pin inside the power port.
5) Take the laptop and look down inside the power port and you should see more small metal strips. Using the same screw driver "Gently" pry these metal strips up just enough to raise them just a hair.
6) If possible purchase a can of "CRC" QD Electronic Cleaner.
7) Spray the Power Plug the port and the connections on the battery and the laptop with the cleaner. Note: The cleaner has a very high evaportation rate and leaves no residue, so there's no waiting for it to dry. Well maybe for 20 or 30 seconds.

I was having the same problem. I to thought it was the joint. After talking to a few people that do these kind of repairs and hearing their prices I decided to try an alternate route before dropping that kind of cash. At the time of this post, mine has not given me any more problems. Most people don't realize that over time residue builds up on these contacts and restricts or stops the power flow.
 
Airbus, check with your original power supply attached if you get any voltage on the most left and most left copper contacts of the docking port. If so, the jack is ok.
It won't run with your higher rated power supply, but will with the lower rated one, even without battery in?

Logman, if you have a pentium, it seems the pin needs to be soldered on both sides of the board.
 
First up, thanks to all that helped make this thread the colossal thread it is.

Now, I've got the same problem. I managed to hack my way through the top and re-solder the ground pins. The positive one I cant quite reach, but the joint looks great anyway.

After doing this my R3000 runs fine off mains power, it even says the battery is charging, but it stays at a constant 12%. I can't seem to even start the lappy from the battery. I plugged the AC adapter in, and can measure 3.5-4V inside the battery compartment. Is that enough, or should it be higher?

Now, is the motherboard fried? I'm hoping that the positive pin on the other side of the motherboard (intel based), which I can't get access to, will fix the charging problem.
 
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