Compaq Presario R3000 power cord issue

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Thanks for replying Que.
Actually my problem seems to be more serious than the bad solder of the jack pins. When plugging the ac adpter (without the battery wich is died) the led of the charger keeps blinking dimm and nothig happens when pushing the power switch.
So, I'm pretty sure that i have a short circuit on the board since the voltage between the positive and the negative pins of the jack is 0ohm.
I took apart the laptop and desoldered the jack connector from the board, measured the voltage between positive and negative sides on the board itself and had the same zero volt. What I want to do now is trying to change the capacitors you are talking about in your posts and my question is where these capacitors are located in the board and where to buy such capacitors (have you an url or technical specs of these capacitors). Another question is : may i temporarely replace these capacitors by non smd ones just for checking.
Thanks for any other advise.
 
Update :

Have got datasheet of the neocapacitor and located 3 of them on the motherboard so the questions now are : wich capacitor(s) have i to replace, where to find them for selling and can i use a standard non smd capacitors (100mf) just for cheking.
Thanks again.
 
All! No kidding, hard to tell which one, and even if changing them will help. Did you mean by "dim light on the charger" the light on the power brick, which should shine bright always, when on? Are you shure about the output of the charger itself?
 
HOURRA... Fixed.

It wasn't the neocapacitors but the diode closets to the power jack . It got very very hot when plugging the ac adapter so I desoldered one pin of this diode , plugged the ac adapter and here no more blinking led (yes the light on the power brick) pushed the on off button and the laptop restarted.

The deal now is to find a new diode or at least an equivalent one. On the diode it is written S4 4H. Have you any idea about it?
Any way thanks a lot Que for answering and helping.
 
Looks like a Schottky diode after a google. Don't know where to get one, maybe there's one on some old r3000 board I have laying around. Is it for an amd board?
 
Is there a number on the board adjacent to the part? I have 2 old boards (video problems) and could pry them off and send them to you, but find it a bit hard to locate the ones you mean, hardly any imprint on them. If interested, pm me your address.
 
Again thanks a lot Que for helping. Actually i discovered that this diode isn't very important since it is here just for protecting the motherboard against reverse polarity. So I desoldered it and have to take care about reverse polarity. Now the laptop is reassembled and working like a charm.
 


Thanks for your reply. I guess its time to buy another computer and ditch this one in the nearest trash can.
 

Noooo, sell the parts on ebay, drives, screen, ram, processor, half a new laptop's worth.
 
hi all

this is my first post in this forum so if i miss something or have not read something in other post my apologies.

i have been having a compaq r3000 ( r3265 maybe ) for some 4 years now. last year it started switching to battery while on ac and eventually turning off unexpectadly bcs the battery holds more or less 5 minutes.

bcsw i needed a relyable laptop i already bought one but i'm looking/trying to repair my old compaq . before giving in to spending for the new i had already tried opening it up but given my inexperience propably it did more harm than good.

as now, when connect it to ac it switches on but showes a blank screen ie black and the hard disk indicater showes no sign doesnt blink or etc. i do have a spare hard disk compatible but i'm not sure how to fit the plastic socket in front of it page 116 manual posted http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c00212209.pdf
in early posts in this thread and i don't know what this sockets serve for if not the obvious part of completing the circuit.

if anyone could and is willing to help me out with restoring my old laptop operational would be most apreaciated. thank to all in advance

 
Have you taken it apart completely, and put it back together??? Have you secured the cpu by a screw on the socket (intel) or by a lever (amd)? Placed the memory back? Another harddisk won't help, laptop should at least post and report a bad or missing harddrive, if present.
If you just get a blank screen, there's something wrong inside, or there's no power (enough) to start the computer. It does the same with the battery out?
 
Have you secured the cpu by a screw on the socket (intel) or by a lever (amd)?

It appears i hadn't ? funny bcs i took the laptop to two "tecnicians" and all they said was that mootherboard was bad.

now it's up and running, bought a new hard disk ( 160giga) bcs i was using the old one as external, installed suse linux and it goes just fine for now.

thank you so much Que for taking the time and helping .
 
Hi,

Sorry to interrupt this thread but I am having the jack issue with the R3000 and just received my new jack in the mail today.

Do I need to clean off the old solder before soldering on the new one?

If so, how do I remove the old solder without special equipment like a pump?

Thanks in advance.
 
No need to clean it, heat it up and put the pins through the board, if the solder blocks the holes. Not for minutes, it might run between the boards layers.
 
Hi,

So I just heat up the old solder with the soldering iron and put the new jack on with new solder over the top?

What do you mean by 'not for minutes, it may run between board layers'?

Sorry if that sounds dumb.
 
Yes, that's how it is done. What I meant is, when you heat it up too much too long, the layers of the board and the isolation layer between it, might burn = turn into some kind of black goo, which expands and breaks circuits or causes shortcuts because the solder gets caught between the layers. About those layers, the mainboard looks like a single plate of plastic with electronics on it, but in consists of 4 layers (some even 6) of those plates pressed to one, with circuitry running all over and between the layers, hidden from the eye. Hope it is a bit clear, english is not my best foreign language.
 
When your solder is flowing in a smooth way, leaving a shiny blob, and not a dull sort of silver clay. Hold your jack steady, so it does not move for a 10 seconds, giving the solder time to harden. Try not to exceed holding that irontip for more than 4-5 seconds max on a solder spot.
 
How long do I melt the old solder for please?

Are you referring to the new solder or the old solder?

So do I hold the solderer for 10 seconds or for 4-5 seconds max with the new solder?
 
You hold your soldering iron tip on the old solder for 4-5 secs., till it melts and flows and settles, then remove the tip and do not move the soldered parts for 10 seconds, to let it harden. If you move it before, the soft solder will break very easy, still making contact, but easy to break such a joint.
To add extra solder, heat up the spot to be soldered for 4-5 seconds, at about 4 seconds add the new solder, once flowed move away the soldering tip.
About the 4-5 seconds, can differ, depends on how your soldering is flowing.
 
Hi,

Sorry to sound really dumb but I've never done this before.

Can you please explain to me the order of doing things?

I haven't pulled the laptop apart yet so what is the order of things once I get access to the motherboard?

Do I remove the old jack first or the old solder?

So you say to melt the old solder which is still stuck on the board for about 5 seconds. How do I take the old solder off then once it melts? Will it come off with the tip of the soldering pen?

You say not to moved the soldered parts. Are you referring to the new jack which is going to be soldered on?
 
Can you please explain to me the order of doing things?

----Follow the video's to take it apart and rebuilt it:
http://www.r3000forums.com/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=9683

I haven't pulled the laptop apart yet so what is the order of things once I get access to the motherboard?
Do I remove the old jack first or the old solder?

---You need to heat up the old solder joints to remove the old jack, if done, put the new jack in it's position.
---You probably have to heat up the solder around the holes in the board again to get the contacts of the new jack through the board, there's no need to completely remove the old solder.
---Tthe old solder might block the holes, if you heat up the old solder and put a pressure on the new jack towards the board, you'll see the pin get through the board once the solder is molten and doesn't block the holes any more.
---Once the pins are through, you can add solder if necessary to give a firm contact.
To add solder, heat up the contact till you see the (old) solder melt, then add new solder to the pin or molten solder, don't put it on the soldering tip.

So you say to melt the old solder which is still stuck on the board for about 5 seconds. How do I take the old solder off then once it melts? Will it come off with the tip of the soldering pen?

----No need to take it off, if it sticks to your iron, tick it off against a hard surface

You say not to move the soldered parts. Are you referring to the new jack which is going to be soldered on?

---Yes, keep it complete still to let the molten solder harden, 10 seconds max.

If you are afraid to kill your board, then let someone at a tv repair shop do it, maybe some skilled family member or neighbour?
 
I have found several solutions to this problem. And, discovered that it is not worth contacting HP. For some reason they are doing everything they can to make these laptops extinct. This would be an easy fix if HP either sold the male side of the expansion port or started making a plug in for the expansion port that you could plug your charger into. After dozens of emails and phone calls I am convinced that they want these machines to die off quickly.
1) Get an xc1000 all-in-one cable. HP no longer makes it and if you can find one you may pay $200 for it (was $31 new).
2) Get an expansion base/docking station.
3) Resolder or replace the power jack. Involves taking the entire laptop apart.
4) Buy an expansion base, cut the connector off, connect the 2 power leads to your charger/power unit.
5) Expansion port mod: The far left copper contact is the negative. The far right is the positive. You can simply put solder on a wire, push it into the positive contact (not all the way), heat the wire up to melt the solder, and you have a positive pole for your charger. For the negative, unscrew the screw next to the expansion port, reattach it with a wire connector. That is your negative. Connect these 2 wires to a female power plug that fits your charger. Positive in the middle. I then glued a piece of plastic over the expansion port to protect and cover this up.
Your charge light won't light up with this mod, but the charge icon will appear on your screen.


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