Compaq Presario R3000 power cord issue

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BostonBlackie

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Sep 23, 2006
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We have had the same problem with our R3000. We disassembled the computer, but couldn't find the loose solder joints. We're not too handy with hardware and tools.

I called HP and they offer to refurbish the compter for $300. They sent me a shipping box via FedEx. I returned the box the same day to them. They had it a day and shipped it back to me. I called them Monday and had my computer back on Friday. For the $300, they installed a new Motherboard, fixed the built-in mouse pad and cleaned the keyboard (which has some sticking keys).

Not a cheap fix, but better than the $500 most repair places charge for a new Motherboard or the $300 commercial repair shops want for soldering the power port.
 

Vter

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I want to thank all those who posted on this issue. My R3000 had the same problem that others have experienced. I live in Vermont, and so there is not a wide choice of expertise available. I considered doing the soldering fix myself but did not have sufficient confidence. I went to a local repair place that had already dealt with a Presario with a similar problem. Their fix was to open the laptop and attach a pigtail plug and adapt the power supply cord to attach to it. It is working fine. The cost of the repair (most of this labor for opening the computer) was $130. Perhaps not ideal, but at least I am back in business and the replacement battery I purchased is charging nicely.
 

Que

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Don't think it is a "too much job". If you already have succesfully opened other electric devices, it is not as hard as it looks, specially with the guides in this thread. Soldering did not fix my computer, changing the capacitors might, but I just put it back together after a second total strip, so that is for the next saturday.
 

herms

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i have bought a new baatery for 60 bucks and i charged it for 6 hrs. i turned my comp on. It was on ac power at that time.<<< I checked the power management thingy. THE lil blue battery was 100% charged so i unplugged the cord to see how my new battery works... and as u proli knoow. my comp turned off. 60 $$ aaaagh
 

herms

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if u have answers or wanna talk bout stupid bateries worth 60 bucks im me: heres my aim sn herms023
 

herms

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heres a tip for all of u who dont want to buy new bateries, comps etc. USE A PIECE OF PAPER (to make it tighter) WHEN U PLUG THE CORD INTO UR COMP> WORKS FOR ME :)
 

achi2k

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Hey guys....looks like this problem with the power cord is very common......and it doesnt surprise me a bit considering what i saw on my motherboard last night when i opened my laptop...the soldering was pretty bad, not only for the power pins, but also for other connectors on the board. Anyway, I had time only to fix up the middle power pin (which looked like it lost its solder).

Anyway, if you read the first page of this thread, you will get all the information you need to open your laptop and learn where exactly to solder. And FYI, you HAVE to pull apart the entire laptop - COMPLETELY - till you can see the power connector pins on the top side of the motherboard. It might sound tough, but it was quite simple to do....however, it was very time consuming for me as it was my first time opening a laptop. The manual provided by HP Compaq is all you need....and disassemble each part in the order given in the manual...that's all. Here's a review:

Remove in order:

battery
hard disk
combo drive
strip cover (the strip which has the power button on it - above the keyboard - this one is a tough cookie if your afraid of breaking the piece, but just pry it open from the top after removing the necessary screws under the laptop and ur all set)
keyboard
display (LCD)
Base enclosure (the bottom casing of ur laptop)
speaker
heat sink
and then finally....MOTHERBOARD

Beware, they're a lot of screws, and although the guide was really detailed and i was extra careful about not forgetting any screws, I still missed ONE screw....basically coz I now have a small silver screw left in the box of screws i removed when i first opened the laptop.

My advice: if you are confident about opening your laptop, and know somebody who can solder the pins (I got an electrical engineer friend of mine to help - but you could do it yourself too!!!), this is the best way to go since you save a LOT of money. Also, this way, you get to remove and blow away all that nasty dust that accumulated over the years. Cheers and good luck

-Aravind M.
 

jessi3k3

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Hey guys, I found this forum and I too have a Compaq Presario R3000. I wish I had found this page a long time ago but all is well. I too had this problem a year after I purchased my Compaq (it seems as if after the manufacturer warranty goes out everything goes wrong). Same problems except I had to push in my power connector with force until it finally gave out. Fortunally I purchased extended warranty from the store I bought it from and I had my laptop shipped and repaired within a week. They told me it was just something that had to be soldered and all was great.
 

Mathew83

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Wow I have been searching for days trying to figure out why my compaq turns off unexpectedly (battery died long ago). And this is definetely the same problem! What a great releif to find links to a dissasemble guide since I couldn't find out how to remove the top/keyboard to get the mainboard fully out.

Thanks a lot guys you've been a great help!
 

rschultz

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Sep 18, 2005
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Hi Everyone!

I am the guy that posted the manual and all my disassembly pictures. Just thought that I would give an update to the 18K+ people that have viewed this posting topic.

The solder joints are bad in a lot of places. Two days ago, I plugged my headset into the R3000 for the first time, and guess what! Bad solder joint. When I fixed the power jack solder joints a few months ago, I also fixed all of the bad solder connections for the sound pushbuttons that had magically stopped working, but did not do the audio plugs. For now, I am not going to take it apart for that.

Today, at work, it appeared that my external power supply died, because the green light was out. When I got home I looked at it and checked the output voltage, which showed zero volts. Then I slammed the power supply on the counter and the light came back on briefly and I had 18 volts output for a few seconds, so I knew that it was not dead. Being the solder joint persecutor, I took it apart and guess what! Bad solder joints all over. 30 minutes to fix that one.

If I was paranoid, I would suspect that a pattern is developing.

In general, there does not appear to be enough solder on high power joints, the solder pads are not big enough for high power joints and all components that interface with the outside of the case, and the solder joints are cold for many connections. It is just a matter of time before they give out.

Shame on you Compaq!

Rod
 

Mathew83

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ok quick question did you guys all take out the entire mainboard when you did the power jack solder or did you just remove the back casing to get at it? I have a r3120 so while it's slightly different the design is bascily the same but I can see the power jack without taking out the motherboard (from underneith, not keyboard side)
 

rschultz

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I took it down to the level specified ing the manual. This constitutes "ripping it apart". The correct way to do it. Good Luck!
 

minkathebest

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So does the HP DL516a is an expansion base for the r3000 resolve the power jack issue for people? If it does, please let me know!!!!
 

ibartolo6

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Hi, I have tried this technique of the positive pin. However, even before this was done, I have a connection to the 3 ground and positive. Of course the positive shouldn't be touching the ground.

Could this be the jack itself?

I don't see any possible connections with gnd and + fom the board other than the 4 pins.

Thanks for the help!!
 

Que

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Hi, I have tried this technique of the positive pin. However, even before this was done, I have a connection to the 3 ground and positive. Of course the positive shouldn't be touching the ground.

Could this be the jack itself?

I don't see any possible connections with gnd and + fom the board other than the 4 pins.

Thanks for the help!!

Are you saying + and ground are touching causing a short circuit? You could easily measure that with an ohm-meter?
Look at the docking port on the right side of the laptop. The most left and most right contacts (copper ones) can put through power to the computer too, that's why some people with connector problems are helped with a XC1000 all-in-one media cable, or a docking station, because they use the docking port to connect to, and have their own socket to connect the power-adapter to. So you avoid using the dc jack with those.
 

avignon

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Stranger,

I have the same problem with my Compaq Presario R3000, purchased May 2004. For the last several months, the connection to the AC power stops. If I take the AC plug out and shove it back it, just the right way, it starts charging again.

I was about the purchase a new power cord and maybe a new battery when I found this form.

My next action is to call HP, but if they don't take care of the problem, I'll join your class action suit. I am more annoyed than I might be, given I had to replace the hard drive 4 months ago.

Thanks,
Avignon
 

bigseries40

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So I am having the same problem as everyone else, and with the help of these posts was able to successfully disassemble my computer with no prior experience.

I got to the motherboard and took a soldering iron to the 4 pins referenced on the 1st page. I got the machine back together and working and I think I have at least improved the power input problem.

Here is my question though - do I need to actually put additional solder on or around the pins, or is what I am trying to accomplish just to remelt the existing connection. Hope that question even makes since, as this is my first ever soldering attempt.

Thank in advance.
 

Que

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Hi, the solder used is a tiny bit, some extra will add to the secure fitting of the joint. I think it breaks by default because of lack of a proper attaching caused by the soldering method (cold solder) and by using a too less amount of it. Cold solders are fragile, shouldn't be used on joints like dc-inlets that suffer from force being put on them.
 
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