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Guys:
I have been facing the same problem with the power cord and bad connection to the power jack. I contacted HP and they say that it is not a manufacturing defect. Following is a copy of the email that I received from HP. I have a Compaq Presario R3000z series bought in Sep 2004.
Thanks
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dear Akshay,
Thank you for contacting HP Total Care.
From your mail, I understand that you are experiencing the issue with
the DC jack of the Notebook.
Let me assist you in this regard.
Although this service is provided as a means of technical support for
our customers, we appreciate any feedback about our company's products
and services.
And I would like to inform you that we have not come accross the one
perticular issue occuring with one perticular series or couple of
series. And i assure you that the issue is not from the HP manufacturing
side.
In order to resolve the issue you may have to resolder the power jack or
replace the jack with a new one.
I will help you with the available options to fix the issue.
Option 1:
To fix the power jack, please visit the Web site given below.
http://www.compaqrepair.com/guide/Compaq_motherboard_ac_power_jacks.htm
Option 2:
I am providing the Web site to purchase the power jack for the notebook
model. After purchasing the power jack for the notebook, you can take
the notebook to nearest service centre to resolder the power jack on the
motherboard.
http://www.laptopjacks.com/service.php
or
http://www.aacomputerelec.com/categories.asp?ca
This should resolve the issue. If you need further assistance, please
reply to this message and we will be happy to assist you further.
Sincerely,
Peter
HP Total Care
I have been facing the same problem with the power cord and bad connection to the power jack. I contacted HP and they say that it is not a manufacturing defect. Following is a copy of the email that I received from HP. I have a Compaq Presario R3000z series bought in Sep 2004.
Thanks
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dear Akshay,
Thank you for contacting HP Total Care.
From your mail, I understand that you are experiencing the issue with
the DC jack of the Notebook.
Let me assist you in this regard.
Although this service is provided as a means of technical support for
our customers, we appreciate any feedback about our company's products
and services.
And I would like to inform you that we have not come accross the one
perticular issue occuring with one perticular series or couple of
series. And i assure you that the issue is not from the HP manufacturing
side.
In order to resolve the issue you may have to resolder the power jack or
replace the jack with a new one.
I will help you with the available options to fix the issue.
Option 1:
To fix the power jack, please visit the Web site given below.
http://www.compaqrepair.com/guide/Compaq_motherboard_ac_power_jacks.htm
Option 2:
I am providing the Web site to purchase the power jack for the notebook
model. After purchasing the power jack for the notebook, you can take
the notebook to nearest service centre to resolder the power jack on the
motherboard.
http://www.laptopjacks.com/service.php
or
http://www.aacomputerelec.com/categories.asp?ca
This should resolve the issue. If you need further assistance, please
reply to this message and we will be happy to assist you further.
Sincerely,
Peter
HP Total Care
I totally agree Que. I think Peter is a liar too, but he has to, he cannot admit his company's mistake...it cost him his job. Also, if he admits, they will be bound to replace the power jack in thousands of laptops...which will cost the company a helluva lot of $$.
Hi all. I'm trying to figure out if my R3000 problem is the same as what is posted here. I have a Compaq Presario R3410US, and when I turn it on it only stays on for exactly 5.5 seconds. (When I try to turn it on, some indicator lights come on and the fan starts up, but then exactly 5.5 seconds after it gets power everything turns off.) However, I have never had any problems charging the battery, and I have never before had any problems with the AC power failing unexpectedly. Furthermore, this happens even if it is running just on battery power. So is this the same problem? And if it's not, what else could it be?
Riick it can be anything between a failing cpu or memory and leaking capacitors or failing power regulator switches.
Try an external monitor on the vga port, any picture?
Is your battery still charging? (see the charging led)
If you have a voltage meter, measure the most left and most right copper connectors of the docking port, if the voltage the adapter puts into the laptop can be measured there, the dc-in jack is not the problem. In case of multiple memory sticks, remove one, test per stick per slot, switch slots. Check your processor for blue (burning) marks, this requires removing the heatsink, and re-applying of thermal paste on the processor die before putting it back together.
Try an external monitor on the vga port, any picture?
Is your battery still charging? (see the charging led)
If you have a voltage meter, measure the most left and most right copper connectors of the docking port, if the voltage the adapter puts into the laptop can be measured there, the dc-in jack is not the problem. In case of multiple memory sticks, remove one, test per stick per slot, switch slots. Check your processor for blue (burning) marks, this requires removing the heatsink, and re-applying of thermal paste on the processor die before putting it back together.
Que- Thanks for replying; it's nice to have someone offering their ideas. There is no picture when I plug into the vga port, but I'm not sure anything would show on the monitor during the first 5 seconds even if it were working correctly. When both battery and AC are connected, the charging LED indicates that the battery is charging; the LED is steady and stays on for as long as the cord is plugged in. The docking port connectors register something between 18 and 19 volts when the AC cord is connected to the laptop (but not when running on battery power). Before you wrote, I did turn on the computer with the secondary memory module removed and then with the secondary memory module in the primary slot. It died after 5.5 seconds just as before. I have not yet tried turning it on with nothing in the primary slot. I have not yet checked my processor for blue burn marks. Give me a few days to do these things. In the meantime, if you or anyone else has any ideas based on what I have just reported, I would love to hear them!
By the way; aside from wearing a ESD wrist strap attached to the computer's metal and aside from not working in a carpeted room, are there any precautions I should be taking to make sure I don't damage anything while I am working on this computer?
By the way; aside from wearing a ESD wrist strap attached to the computer's metal and aside from not working in a carpeted room, are there any precautions I should be taking to make sure I don't damage anything while I am working on this computer?
Riick, always take the battery out and the adapter off when working on internals like memory/cpu. Hold the memory modules on the sides only.
If you are going to change the memory module under the keyboard, also reseat the connector that connects the screen to the board, no contact there can halt posting too. Remove the harddisk and dvd drive too, to exclude them from being faulty and stopping the start up.
I'm afraid it is a mainboard component though, capacitors leaking maybe. Keep pushing that startup button right after the computer turns off, does it stay on longer after some attempts? (Mine did, but only for about 8 sec. max)
If you are going to change the memory module under the keyboard, also reseat the connector that connects the screen to the board, no contact there can halt posting too. Remove the harddisk and dvd drive too, to exclude them from being faulty and stopping the start up.
I'm afraid it is a mainboard component though, capacitors leaking maybe. Keep pushing that startup button right after the computer turns off, does it stay on longer after some attempts? (Mine did, but only for about 8 sec. max)
sos85
Distinguished
- May 30, 2007
- 21
- 0
- 18,510
IMO [ url=http://www.cheap-laptop-battery.co.uk/compaq-presario-r3000series-battery.htm] Compaq R3000[/url] is an outdated laptop now , so its technology now can not fit the popular function.
Or if you want to see some compaq presario r3000 battery tips go to http://www.batteryuniversity.com
Or if you want to see some compaq presario r3000 battery tips go to http://www.batteryuniversity.com
Que- I finally got some thermal compound and was able to do the other tests you had suggested. I removed the memory from the primary slot and turned on the computer; still dies after 5.5 seconds. I swapped out memory cards so that the other card was in the secondary slot and nothing in the primary, still dies after 5.5 seconds. I didn't see any obvious blue burn marks on my processor. (However, if this is a very subtle effect I could have missed it; is it subtle?) I did however notice that the factory really globbed-on the thermal compound; enough so that it had spilled over and appeared to be touching two contacts of one of the adjacent components. Ask me for more details if this is relevant. I also tried re-melting the four solder points where the power-cord jack connects to the motherboard, just in case. My soldering skills aren't great, but they're good enough to make an electrical connection. The solder points looked great before I re-melted them; perhaps a bit heavy on the solder, though. They look OK now that I've re-melted them. It still dies after 5.5 seconds.
There is a pattern that happens when I push the power button repeatedly, but it's not quite like yours was, and it is very predictable. The first time I push the power button it stays on for 5.5 seconds. Then after it turns off, if I push the power button a second time it stays on for slightly shorter- about 4.5 or 5 seconds. Then after it turns off, if I push the power button a third time it stays on for about 5 seconds and then starts blinking as if it has gone into sleep mode. It continues to blink until I lean on the power button for 5 seconds, at which point it turns off. If I push the power button thereafter, it again stays on for about 5 seconds and then goes into the blinking mode until I lean on the power button again for 5 seconds. The pattern will reset if I unplug the computer and then plug it back in a few seconds later. This pattern (5.5 seconds, 4.5 seconds, blinking mode, blinking mode, blinking mode...) is highly reproducible. I have never seen it vary from this sequence.
I can force it to go into this blinking mode if I push the power button and then push it again more than 1 second later (but before it turns off). However, this does not cause any alteration in the pattern I mentioned previously. In other words, it can do (forced blinking mode, 4.5 seconds, blinking mode, blinking mode, blinking mode...) or (5.5 seconds, forced blinking mode, blinking mode, blinking mode, blinking mode...) or (forced blinking mode, forced blinking mode, blinking mode, blinking mode, blinking mode...). In all cases the pattern demonstates a rather bizarre ability to count to three. But will this mean anything to you or to anyone else as far as what might be wrong? I doubt it... but I'm still hopeful.
There is a pattern that happens when I push the power button repeatedly, but it's not quite like yours was, and it is very predictable. The first time I push the power button it stays on for 5.5 seconds. Then after it turns off, if I push the power button a second time it stays on for slightly shorter- about 4.5 or 5 seconds. Then after it turns off, if I push the power button a third time it stays on for about 5 seconds and then starts blinking as if it has gone into sleep mode. It continues to blink until I lean on the power button for 5 seconds, at which point it turns off. If I push the power button thereafter, it again stays on for about 5 seconds and then goes into the blinking mode until I lean on the power button again for 5 seconds. The pattern will reset if I unplug the computer and then plug it back in a few seconds later. This pattern (5.5 seconds, 4.5 seconds, blinking mode, blinking mode, blinking mode...) is highly reproducible. I have never seen it vary from this sequence.
I can force it to go into this blinking mode if I push the power button and then push it again more than 1 second later (but before it turns off). However, this does not cause any alteration in the pattern I mentioned previously. In other words, it can do (forced blinking mode, 4.5 seconds, blinking mode, blinking mode, blinking mode...) or (5.5 seconds, forced blinking mode, blinking mode, blinking mode, blinking mode...) or (forced blinking mode, forced blinking mode, blinking mode, blinking mode, blinking mode...). In all cases the pattern demonstates a rather bizarre ability to count to three. But will this mean anything to you or to anyone else as far as what might be wrong? I doubt it... but I'm still hopeful.
Odd, all this. And never a picture on screen.
Sofar I learned from other posts/pages that this can also occur when the bios went corrupt, or when there is no connection available for the video chip to the screen, as in: bad connector/cable/converter. The last can be tested by disconnecting the cable that goes to the lcd screen from the socket on the mainboard, and attaching a monitor to the vga port.
Riick, see if holding the Fn-key and the b-key together, then pushing the power switch, keeps the laptop running, likely with fans at full speed. If so, a bios recovery method might help. Holding Fn + b, alternative Fn + windows-key, is a way to make the computer look at any attached usb device for a valid bios file and flash program.
For that, you need a usb floppy drive, a bios file (renamed to bios.wph) and a flashing program (phlash.exe file). You can get those files by extracting a bios rompack file, get the latest for your model from compaq's support site. Rename the bios file to "bios", so that it reads bios.wph, put that together with the plash.exe from the rompack (or was it rompaq?) on a clean formatted floppy. Do the procedure mentioned above with the Fn and b-key.
Maybe......
As for the processor showing no marks, if it was fried, you would see it as a large blue mark, maybe half or total chip size. I don't think it is burned.
But it would help if you could have it tested, this goes for the memory too. A local shop tested my processor for 5 euro, maybe someone can offer that service there?
If all to no avail, it might be down to board level components. I think you suffer from a mainboard with leaking capacitors. Fixable, but hard, very hard, even for someone with good soldering skills.
Sofar I learned from other posts/pages that this can also occur when the bios went corrupt, or when there is no connection available for the video chip to the screen, as in: bad connector/cable/converter. The last can be tested by disconnecting the cable that goes to the lcd screen from the socket on the mainboard, and attaching a monitor to the vga port.
Riick, see if holding the Fn-key and the b-key together, then pushing the power switch, keeps the laptop running, likely with fans at full speed. If so, a bios recovery method might help. Holding Fn + b, alternative Fn + windows-key, is a way to make the computer look at any attached usb device for a valid bios file and flash program.
For that, you need a usb floppy drive, a bios file (renamed to bios.wph) and a flashing program (phlash.exe file). You can get those files by extracting a bios rompack file, get the latest for your model from compaq's support site. Rename the bios file to "bios", so that it reads bios.wph, put that together with the plash.exe from the rompack (or was it rompaq?) on a clean formatted floppy. Do the procedure mentioned above with the Fn and b-key.
Maybe......
As for the processor showing no marks, if it was fried, you would see it as a large blue mark, maybe half or total chip size. I don't think it is burned.
But it would help if you could have it tested, this goes for the memory too. A local shop tested my processor for 5 euro, maybe someone can offer that service there?
If all to no avail, it might be down to board level components. I think you suffer from a mainboard with leaking capacitors. Fixable, but hard, very hard, even for someone with good soldering skills.
this thread and the link to the compag assembly instructions are great. I had the problem and so far its fixed with a hot solder job.
Re-assembled and still have two screws left; it works again.
Removed some dust bunnies on the heat sinks, and now both fans start at power up but only one continues to run. Hopefully its the bunnies fault.
Maybe I need to get another dob of heat sink goop? and re-apply to the processor.
When I took the heat sink off originally, the cpu came with it. Plus I didn't undo the cpu screw release. (used it on installation)
I'm amazed it works despite all that.
Re-assembled and still have two screws left; it works again.
Removed some dust bunnies on the heat sinks, and now both fans start at power up but only one continues to run. Hopefully its the bunnies fault.
Maybe I need to get another dob of heat sink goop? and re-apply to the processor.
When I took the heat sink off originally, the cpu came with it. Plus I didn't undo the cpu screw release. (used it on installation)
I'm amazed it works despite all that.
Que- I really appreciate your continuing to troubleshoot this with me. I unplugged the display from the mainboard and connected a working monitor to the vga port. It still died after 5.5 seconds. I tried starting it while holding down <fn-b>; this made it run longer- although other keyboard input did too, and the time varied as I will explain shortly. However, the fan was not any noisier than when starting without <fn-b>, nor did the fan stay on longer than when starting without <fn-b>. (Although this may not be relevant, I did try plugging a flash drive into the USB port before starting the computer with <fn-b>. The flash drive LED failed to light, which I assume means that the computer was not checking the flash drive.) When I kept <fn-b> held down for the first 3 seconds of operation, the computer stayed on for a total of 6.5 or 7.5 seconds (it was not consistent as to which). Same result when I kept <fn-b> held down for the first 5 seconds of operation. However, when I kept <fn-b> held down until the the computer died, the computer stayed on for 9 to 10 seconds (again not consistent; the exact time varied within that range). As a experiment, I kept the 'r' key depressed until the computer shut off. This also caused the computer to stay on for 10 seconds. Same with the <up-arrow> key. I didn't try any other keys. So how likely do you think this is to be an indication of a corrupt BIOS? Could it instead mean that keyboard input somehow increases the amount of time it takes for the computer to "realize" that it has a hardware problem?
If there is still a possibility that a corrupt bios may be the problem, do you know whether bios recovery can be done with a USB flash drive instead of with an external floppy drive with a USB connector? Secondly, I checked HP's website (since HP owns Compaq) and I was a bit perplexed. The only bios software I could find for my model is a "ROMPaq for system BIOS update" called a "SoftPaq executable". It is a single 1.7MB .exe file which is designed to be run after windows XP boots up. Should I assume that the information you gave regarding extracting, renaming, and flash programs does not apply for this? Do you suppose this "SoftPaq executable" would work in place of the phlash.exe / bios.wph files that you mentioned?
Meanwhile, I will start looking around to see if anyone in my area can test the memory cards and CPU to determine whether that's where the problem lies.
If there is still a possibility that a corrupt bios may be the problem, do you know whether bios recovery can be done with a USB flash drive instead of with an external floppy drive with a USB connector? Secondly, I checked HP's website (since HP owns Compaq) and I was a bit perplexed. The only bios software I could find for my model is a "ROMPaq for system BIOS update" called a "SoftPaq executable". It is a single 1.7MB .exe file which is designed to be run after windows XP boots up. Should I assume that the information you gave regarding extracting, renaming, and flash programs does not apply for this? Do you suppose this "SoftPaq executable" would work in place of the phlash.exe / bios.wph files that you mentioned?
Meanwhile, I will start looking around to see if anyone in my area can test the memory cards and CPU to determine whether that's where the problem lies.
Trevoz, you did apply some thermal paste, did you? A paperthin layer is enough. The second fan turns on too when booting, then turns off, and should start again if cpu temp goes over 55°C.
Riick, if you have a extracting program installed to zip or unzip packed files, use that to extract the exe file. Something like winrar or winzip, free programs. Unlikely that the bios file went corrupt, but possible.
Anyway, there is no use in trying, even with an usb drive, (don't know if it would take the usb stick/flash drive you mentioned) because flashing the bios would take much longer than the few seconds the laptop will run. It wouldn't do here too, but at least I did not see the usb drive lit up, so the bios recovery was not kicking in, and likely the bios was not currupt.
The only thing I noticed during the seconds the laptop ran with the Fn + b-key combo, is that the fans were blazing like hell, never heard a laptop make that much noise
Measure the voltage from the bios battery, if it is dead or way below 3 volts, this may be your problem.
I hope your cpu turns out dead in a test. Better that than the motherboard. :?
Riick, if you have a extracting program installed to zip or unzip packed files, use that to extract the exe file. Something like winrar or winzip, free programs. Unlikely that the bios file went corrupt, but possible.
Anyway, there is no use in trying, even with an usb drive, (don't know if it would take the usb stick/flash drive you mentioned) because flashing the bios would take much longer than the few seconds the laptop will run. It wouldn't do here too, but at least I did not see the usb drive lit up, so the bios recovery was not kicking in, and likely the bios was not currupt.
The only thing I noticed during the seconds the laptop ran with the Fn + b-key combo, is that the fans were blazing like hell, never heard a laptop make that much noise
Measure the voltage from the bios battery, if it is dead or way below 3 volts, this may be your problem.
I hope your cpu turns out dead in a test. Better that than the motherboard. :?
I've disassembled a Compaq Presario 1400 laptop, and re-soldered the DC jack on the motherboard. After re-assembling it, and plugging in the power cord, I get the green "power connected" light on the indicator panel (below the touchpad), but nothing happens when I try to hit the power-on switch!
The machine simply does not respond!
Since I get the light, it seems the jack is connected, so why can't I boot the machine? I've tried replacing the 3V BIOS battery with a fresh one -- still nothing...
Hope someone can help! Maybe some other components on the m.board are fried, in case the whole machine is junk, I guess...
- Joakim
The machine simply does not respond!
Since I get the light, it seems the jack is connected, so why can't I boot the machine? I've tried replacing the 3V BIOS battery with a fresh one -- still nothing...
Hope someone can help! Maybe some other components on the m.board are fried, in case the whole machine is junk, I guess...
- Joakim
I'm not sure how to perform such hardware checks... Also, this was a favor for a friend - see if I could revive his old laptop. After all the work of soldering the jack, and it still doesn't work, I don't think I'll bother doing more. Unless you think it's strange how I have power, but am unable to boot? Am I very near a solution, or can it still be a world of fried components?
You probably forgot something, a cable or a screw maybe in the wrong hole shorting something, or there's fried component(s). Soldering the board with the processor and memory on it might have killed one of them. Even touching the board without an anti static wrist wrap can.
Yes, I didn't bother wearing the wrist band 😳 Is it really that likely that static discharge can zap components? I did try to touch "earthed" points on the board (like heat sinks, etc) before touching anything else (does that make sense?). I guess there's no quick and easy way to check this, or is there? How much harm is it likely that my friend has done to the motherboard just by using the laptop with a loose, "wiggly" DC jack -- until it finally caved in? What's the most likely culprit?
The thing is, I'd love to help him out/impress him by fixing his laptop, plus also there's the environmental benefit of not wasting useful stuff. Still, being a novice means frustrating obstacles abound...
Thanks for replying!
The thing is, I'd love to help him out/impress him by fixing his laptop, plus also there's the environmental benefit of not wasting useful stuff. Still, being a novice means frustrating obstacles abound...
Thanks for replying!If you have the time you could start from scratch again, just the board-memory-cpu (on a plastic sheet) and lcd screen attached. Check that soldering again, some boards require contact to the positive lead on both sides of the board, so it may need soldering on the other side too. With the laptop stripped, it is also easy to take one stick of memory out in case of multiple sticks, and test per stick per slot.
Your friend will be impressed if he sees his lappie stripped while you try to fire it up like that.
It is not very likely static killed components, it hardly ever does, I never saw it happen and usually do not care to get the wrist thing out of the bag. At least always touch a metal ground part of the board, to get on par with it, just like you did. Good luck.
Your friend will be impressed if he sees his lappie stripped while you try to fire it up like that.
It is not very likely static killed components, it hardly ever does, I never saw it happen and usually do not care to get the wrist thing out of the bag. At least always touch a metal ground part of the board, to get on par with it, just like you did. Good luck.
Jamie679747
Distinguished
- Jun 11, 2007
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I found that if you keep the cord pulled foward or towards you the power cord stays connected it is a cheaper method rather than opening up your computer and resodering the plug on the motherboard.
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